Peterpools

John Fingers crossed the track switch works out Keep 'em comin Peter

Jeroen Congratulations on your new home ... moving does required more time and work then we actually plan for. Glad to see you’re settled in and back at the bench. Looking good forward to your build updates starting again. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Gaz Thank you and glad I could help answer some of the Eduard decal questions Keep ‘em comin Peter

Thanks Martin, very much appreciated. First time I ever dug into a fact finding issue this deeply and ended with some useful information and a workable technique. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Nick Looking fantastic and thank you for the chisel tip toothpick technique ... going to give it a shot on my P-51, as I always used pointed tweezers, holding my breath, hoping I didn’t damage the plastic under the masking tape. After reading Rob’s post, I thought about the filler cap/gas/oil staining and Rob’s observations are correct. I’ve seen zillions of builds where this is over done and ruins the effect. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Harv some mighty nice weathering on the floor - sure looks well used. Keep ‘em comin Peter

John Holy cow - right out of left field and easily the unexpected. Nice change of pace and will be following all the way. Keep 'em comin Peter

Rob Nice kit choice and the decals should be the new style Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Rob Very much appreciated. I'm going to go the full route with the Eduard decals on my P-51 and hopefully the results will be the same as my tests. Which of the new Eduard kits do you have with the new decals? I have the 48th scale P-51D Iwo Jima Very Long Range Mustang and the decals are Eduard with a 6-7-2020 date on the decals, so you will need to check to be sure. Keep 'em comin Peter.

Thanks Harv Good advice for sure Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv Just took another peek and you're right. It's mostly due to the angle of the LED lamps bouncing off the panels and if you could see the actual panels in the flesh, it's nearly impossible to see. But no matter what, all the carrier film was left on all the NMF decals except the tip stencil and I'm happy with that.. Keep 'em comin Peter

THE FINAL RESULTS The test results and images are in with my final thoughts Looking at the NMF test on both AK and Alclad Aluminum, using both Micro Set and Sol as normal, I was not able to remove the carrier film with the 3M masking tape, untacked. I stayed away from a #11 blade and tweezers as the paint finished was scratched and ruined. In none of the images can you see the carrier film which is as thin as any brand and worked perfectly. On panel #5 at the tip, I added a stencil and did not use any Set or Sol, just soft water for placement. After three hours, I was able to remove the carrier film with no problems and the results are perfect. All four of the panels were painted with MRP Primer, #1 was with Mig Acrylic and the other three were lacquers: Hataka, Mt Color and HRP. All four panels received a clear gloss coat with Mr Color #46. The decals were applied as follows: 1. With Set and Sol - The carrier film was removed with 3M masking tape and a considerable time was required. I was very careful as to were I applied the masking tape and then burnished the tape. It took a number of times to lift the carrier film 2. With Set and Sol - The carrier film was removed with 3M masking tape and a considerable time. was required. I was very careful as to were I applied the masking tape and then burnished the tape. It took a number of times to lift the carrier film 3. With Set only - The carrier film was removed with the same procedure and lifted up with left effort and less times applying the masking tape. 4. No decal setting solutions were used - the carrier film lifted very quickly and with a lot less effort. In none of my tests did any of the ink/decal lift or scratch and none of the paint lifted as well. All the painted panels look perfect and what seems like carrier film, is the LED lamps reflecting off a few deep panel lines. With the NMF, the decal carrier film was not removed and still can not be seen. Only the tip stencil data had the carrier film removed and if I didn't say anything, it's impossible to tell the difference. I prepared the panels with extreme care and prep for decals, none were polished or rubbed out. The panels are all relatively flat and no extruding details. In the end, the decals with the carrier film removed, looks exactly like a painted on marking. I'm happy with my results, will have no hesitations on using the new Eduard decals, either the traditional way or removing the carrier film, depending on what the application calls for. All the images were taken with a Nikon Z7, RAW format of 47 MG and process in Adobe Lightroom. The was absolutely no manipulation of the files at all - What you see is exactly as the test results show. Keep 'em comin Peter

Brad Looking real good - cammo work is spot on Keep 'em comin Peter

NIck You achieved your goal - the wear and tear on the screws and fasteners look spot on. Keep 'em comin Peter

Super progress and really appreciate the large scale ... looking mighty good Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Kev I wasn't able to lift the carrier film off any of the NMF panels where I used both Set and Sol. The one NMF panel where I applied the decal without Set or Sol, just soft water, no issues in removing the decal film. On all the NMF panels with the decal film still in place, you could see the carrier film at all. I never seal over overcoat my NMF at any stage for fear of losing the metallic finish - being doing this since day one. Pics a bit later today. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Gaz I was a bit surprised at the test results and now am wishing Eduard starts making stencils with the carrier film on top as separate sheets for purchase. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Martin, pics a bit later today Keep 'em comin Peter

Disappointing news first and then the Positive results. I completed the tests and was able to work out a system that had consistent results. The results are in and I was able to lift the carrier film with no damage to either the decal or paint surface. The key is prep, paint, clear gloss (smooth surface for decaling) and decal procedure. I was able to apply the decal and lift off the carrier film, leaving nothing but the decal, which looks exactly as if the markings were painted on and not a hint of any film residue at the edges. Stencil data is perfect as well. My first test, I applied Eduard’s new style of decals with the top layer carrier film as normal over a glossy smooth surface using the Micro System of Set and Sol. I left the decals to dry at least three hours and tried to remove the carrier film and it wouldn’t budge. Trying to remove the clear film by using a #11 blade to lift the film and then tweezers to remove the film was a disaster. Caused chips in the decal, left patches of the film and destroyed the paint finish with scratches and chips. Way too much work and the results were terrible. The second test: Painted panels: All were primed with MRP Light Gray Lacquer Primer and then painted with: Ammo by Mig acrylic Hataka – Lacquer MR Color - Lacquer Now for the good news: IT WORKED Photos tomorrow … The key is the decal setting solutions, as they do melt/soften the carrier film, which reacts with the paint and that’s the cause of the problems. Thanks Rob your thoughts was correct. Do not use an #11 blade and tweezers. I used good old hardware store (3M) masking tape, straight from the roll to lift the carrier film. Test samples: 1. Mig paint: Set and Sol were used and it took a lot of work and time to remove the carrier film. I finally was able to remove the clear film with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface. Just takes some time to do. 2. Mr Color.: : Set and Sol were used and it took a lot of work and time to remove the carrier film. I finally was able to remove the clear film with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface. Just takes some time to do. 3. Hataka Paint: Used Set very lightly and no Sol. I was able to remove the clear film with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface much faster and much easier without Sol being used. 4. MRP Paint: No Set or Sol was used. The clear film came up very easily with none of the ink/decal lifting and zero damage to the painted surface. 5. Stencil data decal applied to the wing tip – no Set or Sol used. The carrier film lifted effortlessly. The key is not to use setting agents, as they are not necessary if the carrier film is going to be removed. Using Set lightly also worked, just not as quickly.

Phil At times I'm on the same planet. Just finished the test and I was able to workout a procedure that works. Keep 'em comin Peter

Phil Which seam and what’s your filler of choice. Could be a change of filler might do the trick. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Mark So glad you held back and kept at it rather then letting her almost fly twice. Stunning finish and a ton of work, not to mention a wonderful display presentation. From what I can see of the cockpit photograph, lighting seems even and the white balance is good. For me it’s the depth of field that is the issue as only the seat cushion is in focus, so you eye is only drawn to just the cushion. Photography is a passion for me, so I notice such things. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Kai Absolutely brilliant build with no compromises on correcting the Italeri Mirage. Wonderful work on the figures as you captured the details so well. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Gaz Brilliant build and your battles with the Revell offering over accuracy issues, taking so many months was well worth all the hard work and time. Finish and cammo work are perfect and the final display dio blend perfectly. So glad you never gave up and won the battle - awesome work. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Brad Very nicely done and my kind of finish Keep ‘em comin Peter