GazzaS

I've been committing my modelling time the 109 build. Lot's of fettling going on.

VEry sharp!

Beulen, beulen, beulen... ,keep those beulen smoothin'... Though yer disaproovin'.... With apologies to whoever wrote the 'Rawhide' theme. I will say that this is the last Revell G6 I'll build. Between the three manufacturers, Revell, Barracuda, and Eduard, the meeting isn't exactly complete. So, using CA as my principle filler, I've beaten them into a close proximity of what I'd like them to be. Why blue paint? I don't paint a lot of blue. I bought it by mistake and I use it to tint colors, or to help me find errors. It's MRP lacquer. And I must have sprayed it 6 times today. To remove it and prevent build-up I used 100% IPA. Cleans it off like a dream! ... that's 7 hours of my life I won;t get back. Anyway.... After that it was time to dry fit the wing pieces. You'll notice substantial gaps on all sides of the wing center pieces. As the pieces do not slide laterally... unless I start cutting away plastic... I will have to fill all four gaps separately. I'm thinking the best way to do this is to cement card to the wing root and the wing outer pieces... and sand them until they fit... Because I don't want to have to scribe the panel line. I also needed shims to bring the trailing edges level. But perhaps the adding the flaps will solve that problem. I'll have to consult the directions and do a little dry fitting.

Nice ship!

Now, it looks totally awesome! Beautiful paintwork. Getting excited now!

Thank you for the advice! I'll give it a miss.

Thank you!

I'm in agreement. Planes just don;t get too grimy.

Guys, I don't do a lot of 1/32 jets. Mainly because the only ones that interest me are the 100-series (most represented sadly by Trumpeter)(already built the Italeri F-104) , MiG 15 (seen all the horror stories...Trumpeter again!) and one other that I won't mention until a later date. A Panavia Tornado... one is made by Revell has come up in Australia on EBay. So... is it any good, or another kit calling for a ton of AM and filler? There's a little time left on the auction. So, if you know, lemme know. Thanks for your thoughts!

After about 6 attempts per eye, they are as finished as they will be. I discovered that while the right eye is nicely formed the left eye is more like a squint. But you won't see much since the face is shiny after being sprayed with SMS super clear. You'll notice that I started with the uniform. I got the best tip a while ago about painting uniform details like piping and belts and other things. The tip is to paint the detail first and then paint around and up to it. In this way you end up with figures whose uniforms aren't dominated by piping, belts, and other stuff. I had some black acrylic paint left on the pallet so I decided to fill in some shadows now. Happy modelling!

Wow, that is excellent!

Your painting looks ultra-smooth, Kai! Looking forward to that paint coming off! I usually pull mine about half an hour after I spray... I have no patience! Hurry up!!

Ooh! Excellent, John!

Thank you Kai! Yes... I see those pens do a very fine job. I will use acrylic paint. The reason for this is the ability to fix your mistakes. Whenever I paint with acrylics... I keep a cup of water with a soft paintbrush in it. If things go awry... out comes the water and I remove the paint pronto. With eyes, less is more... So I'll use a grey color. But before I can attempt the eyes, I will seal the face to avoid bleed. Nobody wants Marty Feldman eyes:

Thank you, Rob. I have seen those decals... but never bought any yet. I'll look forward to your results.

Thank you, Peter. The shades don't matter as long as you are close to the basic colors. For instance I wouldn't choose a red that looked tinted orange or any other color. But if you're buying... buy from an art supply. Much cheaper than 'model' colors. The most important thing is that the flesh color you make looks realistic to you. I only have a few colors. White, Red, blue, black, Yellow, burnt umber, burnt sienna, yellow ocher, and terre Verde (a green). The later four colors were to reduce the amount of mixing required. But the truth is, as long as you have the first five, you can make any color you want. I may never need to buy another tube of oil paint. I waste a lot though. Because I rarely need as much as I squeeze on to a pallet.

Beautiful job!

Hey everyone... Not a lot of bench time, so I'm prioritizing our pilot tonight. If he is in Valhalla... I hope he is happy with my work. To paint flesh-tone, you need the following colors. Anyway... here he is... I even made a stab at painting his eyeballs... since he actually has them. I hope that once the uniform is complete that his colors look right. Happy modelling!

Thank you, Peter. Really... the chrome pens are a bit like many teenagers. Only do exactly what you want them to do part of the time. So best used rarely.

Thank you, Kai. If you want to find the tiniest flaws... gloss black is the way to go. The brown filler is just Tamiya paint, straight from the can. I'm experiment with using it as a filler. I mean... how different can it be from Mr. Surfacer? Less sand?

Hmmm.... Well, I'll never buy Trumpeter again.

Hombres, Much of today was spent filling... and sanding. Then filling some more.... and sanding. Filling, scribing, and sanding. Etc, ad nauseum. There was also some fitting... but in the main it was the cowling area and the wing beulen. With my day fading away, I pushed onto the parts ready for oils. First, our pilot got his blue layer. It's meant to be very faint. I didn't want to give him a big five o'clock shadow and photos of Herr Weiroster don't give me the impression that he was very hirsute. So... subtle shades under both eyes, the shaving area, and the back of the hand. Finally... I'd painted the LG some time ago in RLM 02. Yesterday I hit them the Molotow Chrome Pen. Unfortunately, my pen seems to have two speeds... either no paint... or a flood. I think I will go back to foiling the oleos. As the last modelling task today I shaded them with a darker shade of RLM 02 Once the oil dries I can paint the details like the metal clamps that hold the stainless brake line in place. I'm also going to check on any data plates that may be there. Happy modelling!

Kai, The painting is looking top notch. I'm really liking the weathering you have done to the green. Really looking forward to the unmasking!

Thank you, fellas! Now that ZM has 109's in the pipeline, I have to ensure I get all of my other 109's built. Nothing worse than having kits in your stash you don't want to build. I only have one so far... and it's WNW!

Thank you, Kai. Yes, it's a mystery that so much could be so wrong. And yes, those parts were made for the Revell kit. I'm a bit disappointed in Barracuda as the parts I ordered from them either required modification or were useless. Lesson learned. I have built the Hasegawa F but not the G. Hasegawa kits are generally nice. But simple. More like enlarged 1/48 kits. I have a G6 in the stash.