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After about 6 attempts per eye, they are as finished as they will be. I discovered that while the right eye is nicely formed the left eye is more like a squint. But you won't see much since the face is shiny after being sprayed with SMS super clear. You'll notice that I started with the uniform. I got the best tip a while ago about painting uniform details like piping and belts and other things. The tip is to paint the detail first and then paint around and up to it. In this way you end up with figures whose uniforms aren't dominated by piping, belts, and other stuff. I had some black acrylic paint left on the pallet so I decided to fill in some shadows now. Happy modelling!

Wow, that is excellent!

Your painting looks ultra-smooth, Kai! Looking forward to that paint coming off! I usually pull mine about half an hour after I spray... I have no patience! Hurry up!!

Ooh! Excellent, John!

Thank you Kai! Yes... I see those pens do a very fine job. I will use acrylic paint. The reason for this is the ability to fix your mistakes. Whenever I paint with acrylics... I keep a cup of water with a soft paintbrush in it. If things go awry... out comes the water and I remove the paint pronto. With eyes, less is more... So I'll use a grey color. But before I can attempt the eyes, I will seal the face to avoid bleed. Nobody wants Marty Feldman eyes:

Thank you, Rob. I have seen those decals... but never bought any yet. I'll look forward to your results.

Thank you, Peter. The shades don't matter as long as you are close to the basic colors. For instance I wouldn't choose a red that looked tinted orange or any other color. But if you're buying... buy from an art supply. Much cheaper than 'model' colors. The most important thing is that the flesh color you make looks realistic to you. I only have a few colors. White, Red, blue, black, Yellow, burnt umber, burnt sienna, yellow ocher, and terre Verde (a green). The later four colors were to reduce the amount of mixing required. But the truth is, as long as you have the first five, you can make any color you want. I may never need to buy another tube of oil paint. I waste a lot though. Because I rarely need as much as I squeeze on to a pallet.

Beautiful job!

Hey everyone... Not a lot of bench time, so I'm prioritizing our pilot tonight. If he is in Valhalla... I hope he is happy with my work. To paint flesh-tone, you need the following colors. Anyway... here he is... I even made a stab at painting his eyeballs... since he actually has them. I hope that once the uniform is complete that his colors look right. Happy modelling!

Thank you, Peter. Really... the chrome pens are a bit like many teenagers. Only do exactly what you want them to do part of the time. So best used rarely.

Thank you, Kai. If you want to find the tiniest flaws... gloss black is the way to go. The brown filler is just Tamiya paint, straight from the can. I'm experiment with using it as a filler. I mean... how different can it be from Mr. Surfacer? Less sand?

Hmmm.... Well, I'll never buy Trumpeter again.

Hombres, Much of today was spent filling... and sanding. Then filling some more.... and sanding. Filling, scribing, and sanding. Etc, ad nauseum. There was also some fitting... but in the main it was the cowling area and the wing beulen. With my day fading away, I pushed onto the parts ready for oils. First, our pilot got his blue layer. It's meant to be very faint. I didn't want to give him a big five o'clock shadow and photos of Herr Weiroster don't give me the impression that he was very hirsute. So... subtle shades under both eyes, the shaving area, and the back of the hand. Finally... I'd painted the LG some time ago in RLM 02. Yesterday I hit them the Molotow Chrome Pen. Unfortunately, my pen seems to have two speeds... either no paint... or a flood. I think I will go back to foiling the oleos. As the last modelling task today I shaded them with a darker shade of RLM 02 Once the oil dries I can paint the details like the metal clamps that hold the stainless brake line in place. I'm also going to check on any data plates that may be there. Happy modelling!

Kai, The painting is looking top notch. I'm really liking the weathering you have done to the green. Really looking forward to the unmasking!

Thank you, fellas! Now that ZM has 109's in the pipeline, I have to ensure I get all of my other 109's built. Nothing worse than having kits in your stash you don't want to build. I only have one so far... and it's WNW!

Thank you, Kai. Yes, it's a mystery that so much could be so wrong. And yes, those parts were made for the Revell kit. I'm a bit disappointed in Barracuda as the parts I ordered from them either required modification or were useless. Lesson learned. I have built the Hasegawa F but not the G. Hasegawa kits are generally nice. But simple. More like enlarged 1/48 kits. I have a G6 in the stash.

Coming along very nicely

That green looks great, Kai. I imagine you'll be looking forward to the last color and peeling off all of that tape.

Thank you, my friends! As promised, another update. This Revell kit and associated AM keep giving. Yes... giving me the 🖕. Anyway... here we go. The first thing I did today was glue in the cheek pieces. I then modified the front end of the Barracuda resin pieces that will hold the MG 151's using CA and a piece of white card. The ensuing problem was discovering that the cheek pieces were overly wide at the top: To combat this, I glued a piece of sprue to each side, just a little bit shorter than the distance of the gap. Tomorrow, once everything is dried, I will squeeze the the sides together, and then clamp the pieces of sprue with forceps.... then I will apply some Tamiya extra thin and let it dry. Next up was the Barracuda upper wing beulen... or bulges. After I glued in the glycol radiators, I dry fitted the parts. Sadly, the port wing profile was too different from the Revell fuselage. Even worse, three corners did not mate up with the wing or fuselage. So... those parts were wasted money. I had to tear off the radiators and glue them to the it part... whose bulges are facing the wrong way. My new task was to reshape the beulen using black CA and baking powder. After much sanding and shaping... thank goodness for the electric toothbrush sander. It really takes the tedium and time out of these tasks. ...the hard part about 'liquid detailing' is that you often end up with tiny irregularities. So, I used un-thinned Tamiya paint as both primer and overnight filler. n Finally... I gave the 109 her purposeful grin. It took a little internal fettling, but eventually the resin oil cooler slid over the kit parts. And the adjustable airflow gill/flap: There are some notable gaps with the cheek pieces. I will fill those spaces with acrylic filler and then wipe off the excess. This should render them less noticeable. C'mon Zoukie-Moura... bring out that accurate 109!

Hi everyone! Hopefully only the first update today... Anyway... Two of our pilots are being sent on leave. When you next see them...in a future build, hopefully they'll have nice, angular faces on new heads. Meanwhile... Herr Weiroster gets the second phase of oils... the red-brown phase. I'm going for subtle shading here. During the center pic, the camera didn't auto-flash. The out pics were taken when the auto-flash activated, though I put my free hand in front of the flash bulb. Tomorrow, I hope to do the blue phase.

Holy sheep dip... that is some awesome work!

Thank you, Peter. These self-imposed extras have really impeded my ability to complete kits. But what is a hobby without improvement? That would be ok if the were as old as Mr.Lindemann. But being young fellas who mostly grew up during the depression era... You are welcome, Kai. The translation was using Google translator. But I've put the phrase into my brain. The pilots are from this boxing: But honestly... the more I look at them, the more I hate the outer two.

Thanks, Rob. I'm laughing about 'potato'. The center guy is ok... just. but the other two... may have to get new heads.

Holy moley... that's some awesome roundel painting! Great lesson.

Nice masking! This will be an epic paint job!