GazzaS

Thanks for that one, too... leftover data stencils! I love it!

Are you surfing the seas of antiquity today?

Nice start. Love to see what some guys can do with 1/72... but I just dislike the scale.

That is some nice, comprehensive masking around the pylons. I like that yellow, too... or is it orange? Does the IDF have a paint chip chart?

Ok... whose WIP is gonna be first to get the 'seal of approval': 💦🍆?

🖕

I think of Tamiya kits as a release from more *ahem*... intensive kits. Don't blame you one bit, Peter! I will be watching!

Looking sweet! If you can foil that tank... it would be epic. Even if you could only do it to the purely cylindrical parts.... It would still look better than any metal paint.

There was a big discussion about this on TOS. Some people were highly troubled... the rest of us weren't bothered. Hey.... I finally got my single finger salute emoji. 🖕 Let's see how long it lasts. 💦🍆.... ummm perhaps should be edited?

You've done a beautiful job on the model, Rob! Thank you for the outside pics! Some will disagree with me... but I think model photos in natural light are much better and creditable than those taken in electric light.

Thank you, Harv!

Quite impressive detailing, Wolf. I never would have thought to use small decals for small details. I really like that altimeter. Thanks for the tip!

Anyway... enough about Eduard's crappy 109... Let's get back to Revell's less crappy 109. Yesterday I joined the control surfaces and let them dry overnight. Then, this morning I started a final thinning of the trailing edges, followed by painting them to see how they looked. They looked horrible. It was patently obvious that they were still too thick in profile with a too-steep taper at the last 2-3MM. So, all of that masking and painting I did with them on the sprue was a waste of time. I should have glued them together from the beginning and then mowed them down with files until I was close. Let that be a lesson to any of you with a Revell 109 to build. Now, they are much thinner... Bright light comes through them, now. But I will have to re-mask the stitching lines. The AMUR REAVER spinner and propeller blades arrived yesterday. I've got them primed-sanded-painted and then wet sanded with 6000 grit micromesh. The blades are just dry-fitted. Now... I'm still still waiting on three pieces of resin from Barracuda... Happy modelling!

Now....I never said it was perfectly straight on the real thing. Of course there is a gentle curve. But on the Eduard kit it is far and away too big AND in the wrong places. Anyway... it's up to you... mine is already in a landfill somewhere. I certainly won't ever buy another.

We're too stunned to notice a lack of windows. Keep on going!

Thank you, Peter. I think I've taken a $50 kit and paid at least another $150 for it on this one. It'll be worth it if I like it when done.

Be-U-ti-FUL!

Thank you, Kai! Yeah... I have great hopes for the ZM kit, too. But... they won;t be as nearly inexpensive as the Hasegawa or Revell kits.

Rob, I can understand not wanting to bin it with so much investment. The only other suggestion I might make is to avoid a scheme like mine where there is a sharp demarcation through the offending area. I too wondered how they could get it so wrong. Yet, they still keep selling it.

Excellent looking MiG!

Ah I see... he admitted to stuffing it up and decided not to fix it or do other 1/32 planes in case they stuff those up too? Problem is... they're still flogging the stuffed up kit.

That is an awesome looking slat! It's all about proper thickness, and you nailed it.

Who is Mr. Sulc?

It is amazing what can b done with card. Nice work, Rich!

Molotow clear pens surely have improved the lights on models. Well done, Rob. And it's certainly easier than using aluminum foil... which works nicely when the foil sticks.