biggtim

You create the model in software like Fusion 360 (what I use), Rhino, etc, then export it to an .STL file and open it in the slicing software, do the setup and then save it to a flash drive. Plug that into the printer, load it up, and start printing. Surprisingly, the cheapass slicing software that came with my printer does all of the supports for you, if you want it to. It's very simple and kind of clunky software, but it has worked flawlessly so far for me. The only thing you have to do is decide what position you want to part to print in (rotation, height, etc.) then tell it to add the supports. Set the layer thickness desired, and a few other settings, and you're done. You can manually do the supports, or adjust them after they are added, remove some, whatever. They can be thin, thick, different styles, etc. I had to print the camel cowl 5 or 6 times before I got it the correct size, the last one was the one I showed you. It actually became too large a diameter to fit within the print area lying flat, so by rotating it up like that, it fit and kept the supports from marring the outside surface. The supports actually break off quite easily, and usually leave a little bump that sands off without any trouble. Occasionally they will make a little dimple that must be filled. You generally need to prime and lightly sand the parts before use anyway to get rid of the moire pattern created by the layers, but it's much less noticeable with resin than the filament printers. So far, I'm really happy with the results I've been able to achieve with not much learning curve, though results probably vary from person to person.

Yes, indeed! A couple of other members encouraged me to try and make a cannon nosed conversion for the trumpy 262, so I'm exploring how hard that might be. The gun breach was actually pretty straightforward, and the barrel is on it's way from Germany. The nose and removable panels are proving much more difficult to master. I may actually have to try modeling them in Fusion and printing them, but that would be a serious jump in complexity for me.

As promised, here's some stuff I've printed: Cowl spacer and exhausts for Russian P-40 conversion: Cowling for 1/16 Sopwith Camel: And most recently a low resolution test print of a Mk214A 50mm Cannon for a secret project I am tinkering with: Definitely not the awesome stuff sluggo is doing, but I'm getting there. Tim

I have an Anycubic Photon resin printer that I use to print model parts created in Fusion 360. I don;t ave time to post pics right now, but I can later. Still learning the software, but I've been very pleased with the print quality so far, as well as the cost and ease of use. I actually don't mind the regular resin that requires alcohol clean up, but I'm planning to try the water based stuff soon, too. Any recommendations on brand? I think the resin printers like the nice Creality you've got are the way to go for modelers. The resolution and material are perfectly suited for model parts, in my experience. I'll throw some pics on after work. By the way, your stuff is fantastic!!! Tim

Dang, those tracks look incredible!!!

Happy B-Day John!!

What a cool idea, Carl!!

They really kick butt, you're going to love them.

Already bought the Dragon, my friend, with lots of AM.

It may be a while, I have to get a couple of other kits done first, and summer is almost here, during which my bench time drops WAYYY down. Maybe in the fall.

Well, it's time to resurrect this thread, because I gone and done did it. I found a Dragon early Tiger I #6252 on ebay, WITH a set of "magic tracks", AND a bunch of AM stuff from Voyager for 80 bones, and I blew my paypal balance on it. Dammit. I'm excited, but I always feel a little stupid buying more kits when I have so many already started. Oh well!!!

Boy, I am loving this!!

I think I will play the long game and wait.

I love that movie!!

None yet, but it's calling me!!

I damn thee, sir! Why do you torture me so?

No kidding. I am trying to lose weight, and failing already.

The kind of water he drinks would DEFINITELY burn......

So how did this go? I use both lacquer and enamels almost exclusively, and I use them on my 3D printed parts all the time, with zero issues. I always prime first, mostly to smooth out the pattern left by the layers, though it is very subtle with resin printers.

The Allen foundation announced today that they are closing the Flying Heritage & Combat Armor Museum, in Everett, WA, as well as virtually every other venue they own, due to lack of revenue. They said they hope to re-open in the future, but do not have any idea when or if it will happen. Here's hoping it does, it is a fantastic collection, and I would miss it terribly. If it stays closed, I may never have a reason to go west of the Cascade mountains again! https://flyingheritage.org/Closure.aspx Tim

I already told my wife to plan on me heading for Vegas next August, so Smitty, Harv, Clunk, and y'all better look out!!

It sure looks like it! I have the Heller TE-20 kit half built, and I keep eyeing other machinery kits, but I just can't allow myself to spread out too much. I can't afford to expand the hobby!! I particularly love the rusty Cat photo above (note the brand new seat!). I love rusty farm equipment. I actually used to refurbish equipment as a job years ago, so I stripped and painted many a tractor and Caterpillar. I also spent a lot of hours driving tractors and lift trucks at various jobs before I joined the desk bound world. Old machines like that will always have a special place for me.

I love stuff like this!!

Totally agree, and nice models you've shown, too!