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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. I masked off the yellow tonight. And got it sprayed. Now for a clear coat.
  2. A nice amount of progress there Jeroen.
  3. The new Gecko PACV!!!
  4. Here's a couple pics.
  5. Ralph, it's not a big kit but the detail is nice. Like all Bandai Star Wars kits, it's press fit. So no glue needed. I'll try to grab some pics of the parts in a bit.
  6. Some sci-fi kits from my LHS: And a tank too!
  7. Nice fix on the wing gap. At least it's on the underside so not as visible. I've used Bondic UV gel for instrument glass. I apply with a toothpick and then a UV flashlight to harden it. There's a Japanese brand Gaianotes that does one too that's even nicer but it can be hard to find.
  8. I think maybe slightly more than that. I did get there underside painted though. Just need to do the yellow bits then a clear and stickers.
  9. Your FW190 looks great there PW!
  10. Upper side base camo is on. At this point I noticed that I should have used RLM 70 and 71 for the scheme I'd planned (Yellow 5, JG26). So switch to Plan B, and Black 21, JG51 it is!
  11. The cockpit looks great John. What clear were you using on the instrument faces?
  12. Yes, it's Hasegawa's A-5 kit. @Martinnfbhas been giving me advice on building it.
  13. I got the canopy onto the FW190. The rear part is just tacked in place so I can start on the camo.
  14. I finally got some bench time and decided to try and make some progress on the FW190 sitting on my bench. I painted the coaming and added the gun sight as well as the canopy. I'm hoping to mount the canopy and start on the camo shortly.
  15. It looks like you're doing well with the PE zimmerit there Phil. Nostalgia builds can be a fun trip down memory lane.
  16. Here's what it says on the bottle: Compared to Mr Color Levelling Thinner, I think this won't affect the shelf life of the paint as much if at all. You could use Levelling Thinner to do the same but it may reduce the shelf life of the paint.
  17. Rob, that's a great price for the Abarth. I've thought of getting one of those but they haven't been that inexpensive. I have their big Delta in the stash but the Stratos is my favourite rally car. I really should finish the Doyusha one in the stash before this comes out.
  18. Italeri is getting closer with their 1/12 Lancia Stratos. Pic of the test build. Needless to say I can't wait for this.
  19. Hubert, if you want to speed up the drying time for oil paints, add a drop or two of Japan dryer. It makes oil paints dry as fast as acrylics. I used it few times that I had to airbrush Model Master. It dried in minutes without any issues.
  20. Like the others have said, it's a very good quality paint. It's generally a bit thicker than Tamiya lacquers so might need a bit more thinning. The great thing is they offer FS colours without having to mix as well as other standardized paint colours. Gundam ones too! Most Japanese kit manufacturers list them as their recommended paint colours. Tamiya is the outlier of course since they're going to recommend their own line of paints. If you end up with a bottle that's overly thick,.you can add Mr Color Replenishing Agent to get it back to a normal consistency. Or just use one of their lacquer thinners. I have bottles that are 20 years old and still usable.
  21. That really is a sharp paint job Martin.
  22. Your Tempest is looking great. I like the NMF as it is. It has a suitably used and tarnished look.
  23. I've used it. I couldn't find a difference in the results. It also can harden with age. After discussing it with my LHS, they said they had heard similar issues from other customers. The solution was use a different brand of paint as a primer. I used Tamiya acrylic as a primer and that solved the paint lifting. Here's my first try with the paint, a Type XXIIi U-boat. The paint lifting occurred when masking the hull demarcation line. On my subsequent usage on the B-24, with a coat of Tamiya flat white as a primer, the paint only lifted in a couple spots and the masking there was much more extensive.
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