Matt_

Forgot you were even doing this Iain.... Matt

There is one reason to buy a Revell, even if you have 12 (or more) Hasegawas. I like seeing the different engineering and approach - and I suppose to some extent to see where the different errors/fudges/moments of brilliance/moments of insanity etc are.... I suppose poor old Revell had their moments of brilliance in areas that are less obvious (undercarriage bays, wheels, cockpit, tail and rudder) whilst their moments of madness were all much more obviously located (prop blades, oil cooler shape, gun troughs, turbo intake and of course the beule). I think Matt (Doogs) has a great point as well. For someone looking to get going with paint and weathering the Hasegawa literally falls together and you can get to your favourite stage pretty quickly. The Revell kit takes a bit more time and effort to get to paint. I suspect I'll do Hasegawas as quick builds and Revell's as a more involved session. So, for me, both kits fulfil a role depending on my intent and how I'm feeling.. I like 'em both to be honest, I'm glad they both exist and I also look forward to the day that Tamiya and/or ZM do one as they'll be different again and fill another niche or two in my fascination for this aircraft. Matt

"Ultimately, our review guys should be flattered that HS and ADH clearly thought it was good enough to be a threat" ​Blimey, I am flattered.. I have to say having taken a look at the ADH book, I did think how similar they were - our review and the book that is.... Regarding the G-10 Erla, I have a couple of Steve Gallacci's conversions for my Hasegawa kits and they'll provide a good 3D reference for correcting the Revell nose. I wonder if Alistair of A2Zee could be persuaded to do a couple of upper cowl parts to provide another simple drop fit fix...? I accept that Revell should have got it right, especially as they had all the data placed respectfully at their feet, but we are where we are and a correction would certainly make life easier... I haven't seen any correct the parts without a good explanation of how they move the troughs further apart without affecting the cross section and affecting fit to the side panels...? ​By the way, and not wanting to sound patronising, but I think we should congratulate ourselves for having a decent grown up discussion here. The subject invariably stirs emotions and sometimes the threads can look more like a tantrum at a kindergarten... I think we've managed to agree to disagree. Rog, I wish you luck with your three way review. You're a braver man than I. Will this see a break from your no online build policy? Matt

Gator Glue, 2 pairs of tweezers (one for pe-one for the belt), magnification - patience.... Matt

It is a waste of resource... but that is where we are... I'm not privy to the details of how the team worked, but I imagine there was a date set when the drawings had to be 'frozen' and the tools made. After that, only minor changes could be made..? Is that how it works? I know ZM seem to go through multiple iterations of test shots - maybe that's where some of their higher costs come in..? I do wonder if the change from mastering parts from actual real 'substance' to CAD has put the advisers at a disadvantage now, as a model inside a computer must be much harder to spot errors on than a solid chunk of resin or whatever.? I wish one of the model companies would run a feature on the stages of creating a model. All the way through from concept to finished article.... maybe something ZM could be persuaded to do.. Rog - the poster was talking about the Erla 109G-10, significantly different around the nose from the 'standard' G-10 that Hasegawa produce. Matt

Looking good... Interesting to see what you do with it.... not planning on using the kit decals I hope...... (basically they are crap..) Matt

Rog No, shell was ejected. Also, the 75mm shell casing on the Hs 129 was ejected out of the back of the gun fairing through a bloody great hole.... probably take out a few infantry with one of those....! Very few aircraft seem to have kept their shell casings, even though you'd have thought that as the war progressed and materials became scarce they'd recover as much as possible..? Matt

I think I'm going to try to finish off stuff that I've started and has fallen by the wayside. So: Planet Bu 181 with panzerfaust Planet BV 40V-1 Cammett's Arado E-377/He 162 'paper' mistel Revell/AIMS Ju 88G-6 and some Bf 109s to keep my mottling skills developing..... Matt

Well, look at it as Revell making lots of Euros to re-invest in a new tool Do 17, after they've done me a Me 410 and Bf 108 thanks..... And to be fair, neither is 'rubbish' they're both quite respectable representations of the aircraft, just not up to our psychotic detail fanaticism..... Not everyone's going to want a £100 Tamiya F4U.... The Erla G-10 is good news.... will it be as good as Steve Gallacci's resin conversion.... don't know but as they're as rare as hen's teeth it's somewhat academic.... Also, a little bit of scribing and fillind and you could do one of the (currently) ultra rare Erla 109K-4s... nice Matt

Yeah.... I really like the weathering.. care to tell us about your approach with the oils...? Matt

Still looks good Kent, welcome to LSM.... Matt

Great work John It's amazing to see what a beefy plane it is 'in person'. I have resisted getting one thus far. Matt

Very nice Gustav. Particularly like the 'swirls' under the cockpit... Where does the scheme come from... is it one of the Kagero books? Matt

Very cool.... The wheels are little masterpieces in themselves... Matt

Great stuff. That trick for the windshield is a keeper.! Something to aspire to.. Matt

I'm not keen on the Trumpy 109, but you've done a great job on this one Dave. That 3rd 'olded' image looks very good, captures the look from that angle well.. Matt

Good review Jeroen So white 34 is a recon bird converted back to a fighter.... very interesting... Think I'll get one of these... Matt

Thanks.... they're very effective.. Matt

Looks great... Move over Hasegawa.... Matt

Beautiful work Anzo... Looking at the contents of this kit pulled out of the stash makes me realise how much you've really amplified the kit's potential... I really like your use of pastels, they add a great deal of life to a relatively flat colour (for example on the bomb). Are these the sticks that you have to grind down to get a sort of dust to apply, or are they the softer oil pastels.? If they are the oil pastels could you explain briefly how you use them..? Thanks Matt

I only really frequent LSP in addition to here... Occasionally browse through Britmodeller and one or two armour sites if I'm led there by a Google search.... Trying to cut down on fora and devote more time to....... what was it...... oh yes, making models... Matt

If I understand your statement, your photos are still on your home computer. Most sites don't permit direct upload from PC any more. They work with a photo hosting site such as Flickr. You joint Flickr (http://www.flickr.com) for free, they give your a terabyte of storage - not a bad deal..! So you have to load your photos onto Flickr (or similar) then insert the URL into your posts. It's pretty straightforwad to be honest and helps avoid sites like LSM having to host hundreds of gigabytes of image files.... Matt

.... this could be the problem..... I've got 30 pints of homebrewed Woodforde's Wherry Ale (Norfolk ale).... maybe I do need to change the nation of alcoholic origin... Hopefully I'll get some more experimenting in over the weekend.... Matt

Thanks Brad Very nice 190... 1/72 you say.... wow.. I shall hopefully this weekend get a chance to do some more fiddling and try out all your excellent advice. Then I'll come back with my progress... Matt

Funnily enough it is RLM 76 that has remained soft (rather than sticky/tacky) for longer.... But of course this is aqueous and yours is lacquer based.... I get you James... Wow 1:10 that's really thin, but I guess it really does allow a slow build up of colour... I suppose at that dilution either lacquer or IPA would be a good dilutant..? Matt