PanzerWomble

I feel the need... fur speeeed !!!!!

Thats somewhat ironic given your career ! I thought you'd just worn out their emoji buttons 😂 I'm glad you've not vanished I always enjoyed your enthusiasm and care for the forum members . I'm also happy to have found this new home myself. TBH I won't miss the endless speculation threads and wishlists , which got tedius and detracted from the important stuff of gluing stuff together . FYI you show up as Deleted Member in the PM's we exchanged. Please don't go disappearing again ! Guy

WIP here WIP Cheers PW .

Said I wasn't great on WIP threads ...I get stuck in and forget to take pictures .... Anyhoo . Coat of W&N Galleria Matt varnish - I swear by this stuff , you can literally throw it from the bottle , it levels well and dry flat flat flat. Pin washed with Black/ Brown oil paint No particular markings- towards the end of service, less and less are seen of photos Acryllic buff lightly spray for mud , chose to keep this light . Oil/fuel spills via Tamiya Smoke , rusted exhaust mixtures of Tamiaya X9 Hull Red mixture adding several drops of X4 Yellow green Some resin NATO stowage . Tamiya 50 cal . Cammo net on the turret seems to have been a thing . Guitar strings for aerials . And kinda done . Glad to have finally finished this off, and happy with how it turned out - A well used Canadian MK11 Centurion in Germany 1976/7 . Link to all the RFI pictures

I had had a few , and was playing around with the model doing little jobs ...when common sense came over me and I left the Top wing till the next day . Man's gotta know his limitations 😃

OK Maverick !!!!!! Feel the need for speed huh?

Nice - overall I liked the Mustang kit , better than the two Revell Spits I've built ( personally I wouldn't bother building it again) but was disappointed with some othe ways it came together . The wing guns esp are an arse as they come too late in the build ot do much with them easily. Might have to try one of their new Hurricanes as see if their engineering team has come on since then .

Any thoughts on the air scoop ? That was the other bit I found to be poorly matching , although happy to admit that might just be me

nice workaround 👍

Pretty sure the Canadian army don't wear lumberjack shirts ......not sure they were as keen on moustaches as 70's squaddies though 🤣

Slight sidesways move ....working on Sgt Bob today ... Sequence of :- base prime , sprayed black upwards / sprayed sand downwards to give false shadows , glazed olive uniform, filling in some detail , mixing oils for flesh colours , basic face hands hair and eyes. I've tried using acryllics for flesh , but now find oils a lot easier with the longer working time and blending . Will now leave all him to dry out for a few days and then go back and add some final details and highlights . Looks a bit naff with close ups, but sat on the tank with the naked eye should be fine . We'll find out.

They're great fun , I've built a few of those over the years, along with that recon set . Mainly recreating the well known scene at Kaiserbarrake crossroads during the Battle of the Bulge.

I tend to swap them out couple of times a year ....the anal engineer in me hates worn out stuff 🤣

Just came in the post , I will be popping my MRP cherry when I get going with the Phantom . Hopefully as great as everyone seems to rave .

They were canvas with fibre glass inside, after a few years out in the German weather they literally rotted and fell to pieces . Canadian tanks got more of a pasting on exercises than the UK Chieftains or German Leopards, mainly because they were much fewer in number . 75 Centurions 11's served with Canandian forces in Germany , compared to 1000 Mk V Chieftains or nearly 2000 Leopards. No wonder they kept winning the gunnery competitions they were far more active. Link ...I'm not making it all up !! I need to find the other source I had a year ago , it was a wealth of info about the Canadian tankers in Germany , the run down and decision not to upgrade Centurion ( Vickers had quoted, as had the Israelis) and the way Germany insinuated if Canada wanted their special EU trade deal (Framework Agreement on Economic Co-operation 1976) then they might like to consider buying European tanks ....not harking back to their Commonwealth roots and buying British . Trudeaux quickly signed the deal for Leopard 1's . And who says politics and national interest don't rampage through arms procurement 🤣

Masked it , I often suffer from overspray otherwise 😔 as it needed a hard edge . Re oils - I occasionally use oil dot filtering , acylic washes of base colour are better for German WW2 cammos IMHO , or even wet on wet acrylics . For stark colours like this , or say Panzer grey , I find oils are a good way of breaking the monotone . FYI Brit vehicles of that era were painted by hand , on average once a year , by bored soldiers , and the Canadian tanks look similar. The synthetic enamel rubbish in Army use till the mid 90's fades, scratches and chips like ....so it needed doing frequently, over the mud quite often For parades a good spraying in WD40 to give them a shine was also popular. The move to true IR reflective paints in the mid 1990's meant a move to 2 pack paints , that needed to be base unit sprayed , baked etc ., so a lot less layers on modern vehicles .

Let me know if I'm telling you all what you already know? , I'm not a big WIP person . So painting small bits tools tracks etc I use an Army Painter wet pallette as it saves lets me go as slow or fast as I like . Stuff styas fresh for 24-48 hours depending on how much retarder you add. Then onto some filters . Chose to go with oil dot filter for this one , as I know the white will make the green and black look old faded and water streaked. I'm using W&N standard oils, left for an hour to leach out some of the oil . It's also important to have the correct mug for the model ... Dotted on , and then dragged vertically or daubed horizontally with a damp brush . Looks a mess at first but all can be removed with white spirit / turps . Or worked over with a dry brush until it gets ot wehre you need it to be . And here's the whole shebang. It looks OTT right now because it will need 12 hours or so to dry properly and tone down . Even then, a damp brush can still be used to adjust, move & remove. If we are happy it'll be a quick blast with some matt varnish , some markings and then onto pin washes , chipping , mud ,rust and fuel

Base green down . A pass of straight green and then two passes with increasingly lightened with buff. Barrel in semi gloss black, this will probably get toned down more later Masked for hard edge camo , Black down then modulated the same method with dark grey . Now the real work begins Bit earlier than mine , still on steel tracks but once the thermal sleeve is off the gun looks quite shiny.

Or go German . Two training battalions (100 & 206) used them in Normandy , plus a few sent to Yugoslavia . Completely decimated in Normandy in 48 hours or so .