JeroenPeters

Better.

Really was not liking the KG13C control stick Aires provides. Downloaded a decent file for the handle and drew the rest myself. Jist picked them out of the printer and they are curing right now. Picture below is the resin Aires version i abandoned.

More work on the pit. Seatbelts done, wrinkled and weathered with pigments. More levers installed. Getting there.

You are correct! But the release handle is still on my PE fret. I will install it after fitting the pit, since it will be easily knocked off. The handle you see is red as well, but looks yellow since you see it from the top in the pic and shines metal. I’ll add some extra red to that as well. Cheers!

Starting to look like a pit

Slowly adding detail to the pit

First paint in the pit. Mixed my own RLM66 to match the Eduard coloured PE. Much more stages to go, but it’s a start. Also found in my stuff original me262 breaker switch lettering. If that makes sense. I encircled them in one of the most useful me262 books i have for a modeller.

Combining the Aires resin cockpit with Eduard coloured PE and rudder controls. The PE needs some adjustment but nothing major. My me262 control panel provides some mojo.

Wasnt happy with the rudder pedals. Aires lets you install these waaay too wide. And Aires does not provide the whole assembly. Scored a few of these to make life easier.

Still trying to make the floor fit. Shrinkage all over the place. Removed all the floor detail on order to sand everything flush. Then i’ll have to scratch the detail back into place. A bit worried about the transparent parts.

Fighting the shrinkage. Adding shims to the sides of the floorbed. Bought the Eduard zoom set for the Revell kit and hoping it will fot the Aires resin pit. We’ll see

Measuring the kit section of the engine so i can fully replace it

Isolated the engine part that I need and modifying it so it is suitable for 3d printing.

So. The floorbed also shows shrinkage. Almost 2mm on both sides. Will need to fill this out.

I used the Trumpeter bulkhead. Flipped it. Filled it. And used Evergreen to make the ribs.

Talking about 3D models. Just bought this file of the net. I will print the forward section in order to open up the top cowling of one of the engines.

The bulkhead has major shrinkage and can’t be used. See in the pic: the one on top is the MDC resin. The lower Trumpeter. I will make a 3D one and print it. The whole floor has shrinkage too. This was supposed to be a quick build.

I could not help myself. Had this Radu Brinzan conversion in the drawer for years. Suddenly whipped out a Me262 kit and sawed off the nose. The resin nose is a pretty good fit. Some boiling water to make it fit perfectly.

Managed to buy another signature from Ron Pottinger. Might fit better in the final set up.

Turns out the same photo is in the Wingleader book!

Finally!!! from the start i knew i wanted to make Ron Pottinger’s mount. He downed a few v1’s after he climbed up from infantry to the ranks of RAF pilot. He was shot down over Germany at the end of the war and taken POW. Grew to be very old, wrote a book and i have his signed photo. I knew i had seen a photo of his plane at Volkel (the Netherlands) somewhere. Searched for months. Then found it in a book i have on loan from Cees! Had it on my desk all this time. Goes to show Google isnt always your best friend.

Almost nothing. Took a bit from the outside of the wheelbays. Had to thin some plastic in order to get the resin bulkhead to fit nicely though

Dryfitting the engine. So far so good. Cees warned me for gulwings if the pit and fuse pushed the wings apart. You see this often with this model turning it into a Stuka. Glad that after a lot of sanding this is averted.

This is by no means shake and bake. A week of sanding, fitting and more sanding got to to a decent fit between fuse and wings.

The photo etch flap under the armament bay. To obtain upper detail i’ll need to seriously thin the resin upper part.