JeroenPeters

Doing the decals. Already put the window masks back on. Couldn't resist checking...

That would be a great subject for HK Models. Or HPH... they don't seem scared easily of big subjects

Friggin lovely AND unusual! Don't think we'll soon see a large scale kit of these. Thanks for sharing!

At first with a sharp blade. The sharp dents i smoothed out with a soft fine nail-pad file.

Down the Hatch! hihihihi

Cheers JD, Spent some more time getting rid of tiny flaws and sealed the deal with Future:

Cheers George! It really is a gem and beggans to get dirty

1:35 Krupp 21 cm Mörser 10/16 Takom Catalogue # 2015/2032 Available from Pocketbond for 29,99 pounds Introduction After the sudden onslaught of WW1 aviation subjects in our Large Scale, we see a sudden sprint on the armour front as well. Both cottage industry brands as larger brands see opportunities and surprise us with often lesser known monstrous Great War subjects. Tamiya, Meng and Takom take on some impressive ‘heavies’, whereas Tommy’s War, The Fusilier and Aviattic treat us to a whole new range of figures and equipment. I guess most of us modelling nuts know the British WWI Male and Female tank. But who knew the St. Chamond? The Char 2C? The Schneider tank? Or the Krupp Mörser for that matter? WW1 subjects sure offer great potential for diorama modellers who can shape their dreams in mutt and plastic despair. One of my favourite modellers these days within this subject without a doubt is Per Olav Lund. Some pictures of his amazing work: History Let’s have a look at the name first. Krupp obviously is the factory that produced this weapon and is famous for it’s (field) guns. Founded in 1810 in Essen and delivering guns to the Russian, Turkish and Prussian armies. Nowadays Krupp has merged with Thyssen and continues under one brand: ThyssenKrupp AG and is still Germany’s 5th largest steel company. (You may have seen their logo in an elevator...) The Mörser (Mortar in english) 10/16 replaced the older Mörser 99 which lacked recoil and a protective shield for the crew. The 10/16 also featured a longer barrel than the older model 99 (and was often also referred to as Länger Mörser) which gave it a longer range of almost 10km(!). These numbers in the type names derive from the year they were developed. The K98 rifle for instance was developed in 1898. The Mörser 99 was developed in 1899 and the Mörser 10 in 1910 (and further upgraded in 1916). There’s an interesting video on YouTube that shows the production and use of this canon: Amazingly 12 Mörser 10 types survived to this day and about 17 of the Mörser 16. Mostly in the USA and Australia. Check this link to see if there’s one in your vicinity for a good walkaround: http://www.passioncompassion1418.com/Canons/English_CanonsIndex_NationPHP.php#Allemagne As I found one is on display in the Belgian War Museum in Bussels in a great colourscheme and mounted for transport. Here's the one at Brussels: And here's one covered in grey paint withstanding the elements in the USA: The kit Takom spends time on their design and box-art. What strikes is the relatively small size of the box that contains 4 grey sprues, some photo etch, decals and rubber rings to secure the wheels. Somehow I expected this kit to be bigger, but it’s well researched and definitely complete! It’s also clear that Takom has a steady partnership with AMMO (Mig Jimenez) products, since their logo is present on the colourguide, and the AMMO paint codes are used throughout. So, 4 relatively small sprues: Sprue A: With the wheels, gunshield and elevation mechanics. The wheels are crisp and well detailed with clear definition of the nuts and bolts. The only thing you might want to add is the securing pin through the wheel axle/hub. You can see this part on the photo of the Brussels example. Included in the kit are normal / conventional spoked wheels and the tracked wheels for heavy terrain. These give the gun an impressive stance. A small point of attention (or rather three of them) are the ejector pin marks on the inside of the shield. These are easy to get rid off, since no small detail is immediately surrounding it. Here's the rear of the shield with some marks to get rid off: Sprue B: With the breech and the main frame. These parts make up the base of the gun and show no pin marks on the visible outside. Assembly of the gun starts with these parts and give you an idea of the size. Sprue C: With the breech, axles and smaller details. No flash, no pin marks and little to no clean up necessary. Sprue D: With the optional track-pads, barrel and small details. The track pads have some ejector marks on the inside and I guess you could opt to remove them, but when attached they will be hardly visible. Also on this sprue is the shorter Mörser 10 barrel and the longer Mörser 16 barrel. Both take the photo etch rifling on the inside which will take some elbow grease to get it to fit seamlessly I imagine. In my sample two small photo etch frets are present. Upon further inspection I found a single correction sheet in the box stating that PE-part TP-7 (on the bigger sheet) is incorrect and should be replaced by the included single TP-7 part that is provided. This may or not be the case with your kit. Just make sure to check the photo in this review whether you have the correct part. The instruction come in a small A5 booklet with well defined shaded 3D impressions. I favour this style over hand drawn or photographed instruction illustrations any day! In no more than 18 steps the gun falls together and this is where the real work starts. Since these guns saw heavy battle, you can really go to town with your weathering pigments, chipping medium and oil washes. No wonder AMMO committed it’s name to this line of kits… Seven schemes are offered in a foldable booklet, printed in colour in 4 sided profiles: 1. Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 Imperial German Army 1871-1919 World War 1, Sereth front, Romania | 1917 | Dark Grey 2. Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 Imperial German Army 1871-1919 Unknown World War 1 | Yellow Gray, Forest Green 3. Krupp 21cm Mörser 10 Captured by the Canadian Army 21st Battalion 27th City of WPG World War 1, Vimy Ridge | August 1917 | Yellow Gray, Green Base Decals are provided for this scheme only, since the Canadians left some of their graffiti on their spoils of war! 4. Krupp 21cm Mörser 16 Imperial German Army 1871-1919 Unknown World War 1 | Dull Green, Ochre Earth, Clay Brown 5. Krupp 21cm Mörser 16 Imperial German Army 1871-1919 World War 1, Artois | 1916 | Forest Green with Ochre Earth, Clay Brown blotches 6. Krupp 21cm Mörser 16 Canadian Army World War 1, East of Arms | October 1918 | Yellow Gray, Brown Soil, Dull Green 7. Krupp 21cm Mörser 16 Imperial German Army 1871-1919 World War 1, Ham (Somme) | March 1918 | Brown Soil, Dull Green, Ochre Earth Verdict I would rate this kit a solid 9 out of a 10. For Takom’s choice of subject. After all: these guns made some impact in their days, but are lesser known than their WWII offspring. These guns (like the Big Bertha soon to be released) offer endless diorama possibilities and pay homage to so many men that lost their lives in the Great War. But also a 9 out of 10 for the quality of Takom’s kits. The moulding, finish and engineering. Right down to the fact you get to choose out of no less than 7 schemes! These kits might someday just pull me over to the dark side… As a matter of fact I found myself browsing Tommy’s War and The Fusilier websites, looking for some appropriate figures to go alongside my Mörser… Highly recommended if you are venturing into Great War subjects. Our sincere thanks to Pocketbond for this review sample. To purchase your Mörser 10/16 click here. Jeroen Peters

Cheers George! Just finished the underside. Quite happy with the colour. Next: Sealing it and decals.

Very nice progress so far. Will you keep the engine clean, or will you weather it up a bit?

What a stunner of a kit...

Paint on! I made my own mix. RLM Grey blue / White / Olive green (just a little). Think this comes close...

Nice man cave you've carved for yourself!

LMAO!! Omg.. Well... had to back track a little to eradicate a small upper seam that showed up on the nose (visible in the photo). Some more Mr Surfacer, sanding and polishing and it's all gone. This weekend time for paint! Cheers!

Dammit! Now you're making me do the research! This is what I found. A long topic about the FS-translation of some relics. Looks like I need to throw some grey / green and blue in the mix. Modulation of a light grey colour will do the trick. Already starting pre-shading.

Done!

Whoopdidooo! Snap. Snap! The first cuts! This is gonna be good...

Yup! I'll aim my sneezes carefully.... Here's the final bob: Pitot tube:

With a panel line scriber. Scribe from the top until you're through completely. Works great!

Ok. onwards and upwards! Added more PE detail to the nose: And added the ailerons, with scratched control rods: Almost ready for paint!

You're on!

Indeed! Pre colored PE is a nice idea on paper but not on PE

The only thing i can guess is that it is to save weight. Structural spars are included so I'll let you guys know how that works out.

1:32 Focke-Wulf Ta 154 ‘Moskito’ HPH Models Catalogue # HPH 32040R Available from HPH Models for €198,- Introduction The Ta-154 is one of those subjects that will sell great, no matter how many were produced during the war or even saw operational theatre. Just like the Ho229. Years ago when returning to the hobby I built the whole range of late war Luftwaffe (night)fighters in 48th scale. Do-335, He-219, Ju-88, Ar234, Ho-229, Ta-152 and the Revell (ex-Dragon) Ta-154. A pretty sweet kit that I spiced up with some Verlinden aftermarket. Who would have thought that not a few, but all of these types would be released in quick succession in our beloved 32nd scale? To be quite honest I would have guessed that Revell would be the most likely candidate to release an injection moulded Ta-154, but it being HPH Models (albeit in resin) doesn’t disappoint. Having seen and held the resin model at Telford Scale Modelworld, I can tell you it’s sleek lines, smooth surface and high nose-stance is something to look at. Not too long ago I reviewed Kagero Publishing’s Monographs 3D edition on the Ta-154, hoping that I would ‘need’ it soon. Well… I guess I do now! Review here. It offers 3D renderings of all essential parts of this plane, serving as a painting instruction as well as a guide for some extra detailing, which never hurts with a resin kit. History I won’t bore you with the entire background and development of the few prototypes that were made, but there are a few remarkable facts worthy of mentioning. As most know the german Moskito was intended to be an answer to the british ‘all’ wooden Mosquito. The Mosquito reaped havoc as a bomber, fighter bomber and fighter, frustrating the Luftwaffe to the max. In 1942 the RLM decided to make more use of “Homogenholz” plywood in airframes and Focke Wulf was the first manufacturer to answer the call. Kurt Tank (Focke Wulf’s Chief Designer) assembled a team and started work on a plane that was suited for multi-role tasks, outperforming the british Mossie in the process. The airframe’s structure was to be 50 % wood, 39 % steel and 11 % other materials. It would be powered by two Jumo 211F engines and be able to carry a maximum of 1000kg of bomb load. Kurt Tank was given three numeral designations for his twin engine design: 152, 153 and 154. Since 152 and 153 were already reserved for his other FW190 projects, it was given the name Ta-154. During it’s development the Ta-154 was surpassed (both politically as design-wise) by the He-219… What also didn’t help was the fact that the factory that produced the special glue that was used to bond the plywood (called Tego-film) was ‘accidentally’ bombed in June 1944 by the Royal Air Force. In September of 1944 the entire project was cancelled and only 50 production aircraft have been completed. A few actually served in Nachtjagdgeschwader 3 and some were used to train jet pilots. The kit As with most HPH Models kits the box is the sturdy transport kind with a removable top. Upon opening it you are treated with a compartimented lay-out filled with bags of resin, photo-etch, HGW seatbelts, an instructions CD, decals, window masks, lead nose weight, leaflets and ofcourse… a small chocolate. The quality of the casting reveals no shrinkage as far as I can spot and a minimum of air bubbles. At least not in places where filling is needed. For a peek in the manual, click this link. To be precise the kit consists of: • Approximately 120 resin parts • 3 clear resin parts for the canopy • 1 clear piece of film • 1 metal wing spar • 23 metal parts for antenna’s • 1 piece of shaped lead for nose weight. • HGW fabric seatbelts • Canopy masks • 1 sheet of photo-etch • 1 sheet of decals • 1 bag of brass Fug parts • 1 cd with instructions (not a fan since my MacBook pro does not accept CD’s…) • 1 chocolate Comparing the fuselage and wings to the HK Models Mosquito shows the size of these two planes is almost identical. The fuselage of the Ta-154 being slightly longer and the wings about the same wingspan. These two will look great head-on in display on the shelf. Cockpit As always, work starts behind the controls. Scrolling through the instructions one can only be impressed with the level of detail that goes in here. Luckily a good handful of photo’s and documentation survived on this part of the Ta-154. 6 whole pages take you through the building steps. The forward seat is reserved for the pilot. The instrument panel consists of sandwiching the instruments on a decal between a resin backing and a photo etch panel. Detail on the dials and gauges is of Airscale quality. Very clear and detailed. The fuse box on the right sidewall takes a decal which will add both detail as challenge! It’s all there, right down to the always lovely HGW sealtbelts… One of the final stages of the build is adding the canopy and I for one love the fact that hinges are supplied. A detail often overlooked. And as stated below by Iceman: I'm glad that HPH stopped using the pre colored photo etch for the instrument panel, like they did on the Me410. Sidewall: HGW seatbelts: Fuselage The two halves line up perfectly and don’t need a lot of cleanup. HPH uses a pretty unique resin casting technique that leaves a tab along the length (bottom) of the fuselage. In my experience this needs a couple of runs with a panel line scriber and you can just snap it off. Four locating pins ensure a proper joining of the two halves. A hole needs to be opened up in order to accommodate the metal round wing spar, that will carry the weight of the model. Fuselage surface detail is minimal, just as with the Mosquito, since this was mostly a smooth wooden wonder. Wings I guess in order to save resin and weight the wings are casted hollow, with an upper and lower side. I’m not a big fan of these kind of resin wings, after a pretty bad experience with the GMF 1/32 Hs129 that will never see the finished light of day because of this reason. However: I have a bit more faith in HPH product, so I’ll save my fears till later on. It’s re-ensuring to see resin vertical spars are incuded as well to prevent the wings from drooping or altering shape over the length. Again: surface detail is minimal, again: due to the wooden construction. Rivet detail around the engine gondola’s is refined, subtle and will look great under some paint. Lovely subtle structure on the control surfaces: Engines The engine gondala’s (Jumo 211 are ofcourse not visible so not included) appear to fit great from the block. As with the wings and fuselage the surface detail is delicate en restrained. Very much up to par with an injection moulded kit. The most daunting part of building the engines are the cowling flaps. The push rods and photo-etch will definitely be a pain, but do-able for someone with limited building experience. When glueing the cowling to the front of the engine, all push rods should align and mate with corresponding holes. This will be fun. Engine details, with spinners, gear doors and coolers, flame dampers, etc.. Beautiful hollow spinner and prop base: Prop blade: Gotta love this oil cooler: Gear No messing about here. These babies will carry a lot of weight. Especially when you see how much the angle of the fuselage is tilted back. It’s great to see many parts in this kit are re-enforced with metal rod. The gear legs are no exception! Detail in the gear bays is sufficient, but could definitely benefit from some additional wiring. Drawings/photographs of these parts I need yet to find. Photographs in the instruction manual give additional information on what goes where. The nose gear looks like a kit in itself. About 20 parts build up to a delicate contraption, that is like the main gear, re-enforced with metal rod. This part after all will carry the impressive lead nose weight! Here's the nose gear leg with re-enforcement: One of the weighted main wheels: Main gearbay detail: This is the only part that was damaged during transport. No biggie: Main gear bay doors: And how do you like this nose wheel bay and hubs? One big nose weight that fits snuggly in the nose: Clear parts As clear as resin comes! Who needs vac-form? After recently using HPH’s clear resin on their Ohka, I can tell you that the clarity is un-evened in any clear resin I’ve ever seen. Just one casting block to remove and you’re good to go. I hope the canopy masks fit a bit better than the ones’ on the Ohka, since they were slightly undersized. I’ll let you know. What I also like is the pre-shaped clear film for the landing light. It makes life just a little bit easier. Small bits and bobs.. After you’ve tackled the intricate engine cowlings and gear you can test your hands on the Fug antenna. As the other delicate and breakable parts, these are re-enforced with metal rod. The aerials themselves are brass, so should be able to survive a small flick or bump. Re-enforced Fug antler: Brass Fug antenna's: Photo-etch fret This sheet carries the cowling flaps, instrument panel, rudder pedals, hinges, base plates for antenna’s, hatches and buckles. The silver coloured photo etch only carries the name HPH, so I have a feeling Eduard is not involved in this. Nevertheless: The detail is as good as can be expected. I’m not a huge fan of this metal photo etch, since it’s a bit more difficult to bend. On the other hand: it is stronger. Schemes / Decals Not a lot of options here! One ‘option’ to be precise. The TQ+XE, a Ta 154 A-0 (W.Nr. 120005). The same scheme I finished this plane in, in 48th scale by Revell. The 3D renderings in the Kagero book show this airframe from every thinkable angle, which helps with laying out the RLM 76/ RLM75 scheme. Reference The books I have on the subject show most of the development photo’s I also encounter on the internet: • Kagero’s amazing Monographs 3D Edition, #51 on the Ta 154 Moskito. ISBN: 978-83-62878-72-7 • The Luftwaffe Profile Series 12, Ta 154 Moskito by Manfried Griehl. ISBN: 0-7643-0911-0 • Wydawnictwo Militaria #110, Focke Wulf Ta 154 Verdict The only game in town if you’re (as me) finally want to build the Moskito in 32nd scale. Beautiful model. No additional extra’s needed. All these points justify the somewhat steep price. It’s an impressive kit that looks very well thought out and engineered. Only building it will tell if this assumption is correct. I would rate this kit a 8 out of a 10. The addition or choice of a different version (V-type or A2/U4?) would have been nice. Other than that the kit looks to be another HPH high quality release. I hope it will have it’s time to shine on the market before Revell (or a different brand) hits us with an injection moulded offering. VERY highly recommended if you are into late war exotic Luftwaffe subjects. My sincere thanks to HPH Models for this review sample. May many more exotic models appear from their hands. Jeroen Peters

I spoke to Mirek from HPH this weekend at Telford and he showed me the plans for a 1/32 Me323 Gigant.........