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Revell 1/32 Spitfire Mk IIa


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Kev

Love Mr Color lacquers as well. All my air brushes have the forks on the tips. I can change them with other tips as needed or at times, I just remove the tip. I've pretty much always used my air brushes this way and never gave it much thought, but maybe I should. 

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A splendid Spit, you built and painted up, Peter. The build benefits from your usual through work and smooth paintwork. Like you, I really like AK's Real Colors, as they spray very fine and cover well. I had sometimes color residue build ups on my H&S Infinity forked caps and spray mostly without theese. You have to be very careful, to not bend the needle without the cap. I plan to use my Rotring airbrushes more, which are only one and a half action and have an only slightly protruding needle wit a rounded tip. They are precision tools too, but no more in production. I bought these in the 80's.

Cheers Rob

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3 hours ago, Peterpools said:

DONE AND IN THE BOOKS

Early this morning the Revell Spitfire was finished and rolled across the finish line. I spent three days finishing up, what I thought would only need one day. The gear was a killer as I struggled to install them as correctly as I could, being the locating fittings were sloppy and iffy at best. The main gear strut oleos were finished with Alclad Chrome, tires painted in Tamiya Rubber Black and the wheels with Tamiya Lacquer Polished Aluminum. All the details were picked out with Tamiya Dark Brown and Black Panel Line Washes.

The kit cockpit door was used as a mask for painting, now removed and replaced with a modified Barracuda resin door. The flaps were dropped as I had glued the rear spars together when first gluing the wings together at the very early stages of the build, which prevented from adding the flaps in the raised position later on. Going back there wasn’t anything in the instructions relating to this that I could find.

The armor plate for the front windshield is a separate piece – I have no idea why Revell decided to mold it that way and since I was using Ask masks, I built up and painted the Spitfire with the armor plate off and would add it later – bad decision. Fit was an issue and required filler twice at this late stage of the game. All the remaining small parts I had left for the end now needed to be added and to be honest there are one or two still in the box I’ll add later on.

Final clear finish was Alclad Lacquer Semi Matte Clear, as I prefer a semi matte finish to a dead flat finish.  

My final thoughts. Not an easy kit to build and a definite cross between various marks. As the story goes, Revell supposedly used a restoration Spitfire for their research and that was a combination of various marks and thusly why Revell’s Spitfire is how it is. Good story if it is true.

The front office received a full Quinta detail set and Barracuda resin parts were used to replicate the fabric ailerons.

Painting was a joy going with free hand cammo (first time in years since my chemo and all the issues I had with my hands) and using awesome AK Real Color Paints was a dream.

 A $40 MSRP kit that can be found for close to $30 and for that money it’s well worth the price.  

I still have two Tamiya Spits in the stash, the Kotare Spitfire coming and the Revell Hurricane due by 3/23, plus the Border Lancaster  – lots of RAF WWII builds planned for the next few years.

Next up:

A Buddy Build with John B: the ZM Bf 109 G14/U4.

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Very nice Peter. Looks like a Spitfire for sure! :)

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Rob, Thank you for the very kind comments. Completely agree on the few issues with the H&S Infinity CR Plus ABs' and I normally just keep a dampen Q-tip on the ready and remove any tip paint build if needed. At time, I follow your procedure of removing the tip guard and need keep reminding myself to be extra careful as the needle tip is now exposed and can be easily damaged; and H&S replacement parts are on the expensive side to say the least. Normally, I work with two H&S Infinity air brushes; one with a .2 tip and the other with a .4, switching back and forth as needed.

The more I work with Real Color paints, the more I am becoming a convert. I still have a good supply of MRP paints and need to use quite a few of them up, so I won't be duplicating colors.  The ZM 1090 will be painted with MRP paints as I have all the colors in the ready.

 

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Thats a really great precise build Peter, it looks really sharp , which given the fit of the parts is to be applauded . The kit ( I've built it twice... but not again) has some challenges for sure, and you've navigated around them with aplomb . 100% kudos for not adding an aerial wire ! 

Hobbycraft in the UK were selling them at £12 in 2020, it is a bargain ...but looking forward to your take on Kotare's work and the new Revell Hurricane ( I kinda fancy a shot at that one too . ) 

 

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Thanks PW, very much appreciated. Right with you as there are some fit issues and one of the hardest parts of the build, finding the parts hiding on the sprues. So much time needs to be devoted to the Easter Egg Part Hunt over the entire build. Agreed, looking forward to both the Kotare Spitfire and the Revell Hurricane - both are going to be gems. BTW, I've started the ZM 109 and part layout and organization is fantastic - something we take for granted but after the Revell Spitfire, I won't anymore.

 Peter

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Thanks Gaz, very much appreciated. The Revell Spitfire had its issues and I guess it was the limits in R&D based on the low MSRP target but in the end, a very good looking model for the display case. I'm looking forward to building the Kotare Spitfire after finishing the ZM 109. Seems John and I are following your lead on both kits. 😉 

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On 3/22/2023 at 4:52 PM, Peterpools said:

Rob, Thank you for the very kind comments. Completely agree on the few issues with the H&S Infinity CR Plus ABs' and I normally just keep a dampen Q-tip on the ready and remove any tip paint build if needed. At time, I follow your procedure of removing the tip guard and need keep reminding myself to be extra careful as the needle tip is now exposed and can be easily damaged; and H&S replacement parts are on the expensive side to say the least. Normally, I work with two H&S Infinity air brushes; one with a .2 tip and the other with a .4, switching back and forth as needed.

Peter, I have a Sharpenair for my airbrush needles:

https://www.mapleairbrushsupplies.com/products/sharpenair?variant=31380551043

I picked it up a few years ago and it can straighten out a bent needle tip and remove any nicks in one. It's also simple to use. 

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1 hour ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Peter, I have a Sharpenair for my airbrush needles:

https://www.mapleairbrushsupplies.com/products/sharpenair?variant=31380551043

I picked it up a few years ago and it can straighten out a bent needle tip and remove any nicks in one. It's also simple to use. 

I have one too.  One day while cleaning I dropped the needle and it speared into a piece of pine that my bench is made of.  I used the Sharpenair to grind away the new bend on the tip of the needle.

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