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The Great LSP Twins Group Build Starts Jan 24, 2024 - End July 3, 2024 ×

Revell 1/32 Spitfire Mk IIa


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Thanks Phil so much. I bought a set of EagleCal decals: EC#158 which contain the same markings I was planning on using from the kit decals, QV J. About 2/3 of the decals will be from EagleCal and the balance from the kit. Right now, comparing them both, the kit decals look pretty good. Just going to see how it goes.

 

 

 

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Looking very Spitfiery .👍

Just for info - 

I was told once if you left your flaps down after landing , you had to buy a round a drinks in the mess as it was frowned upon . As ever not saying never, just not SOP . they don't droop naturally as some aircraft do either. Might have been from Edgar notes ? 

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PW

Thanks for the photograph of the full size Spitfire. Yes, I know the flaps are raised on all Spitfires after landing but this Spit will have them down due to Revells terrible instructions.  During the early stages of constriction, I glued the rear spars together and that meant no way to close up the flaps. So, it looks like I'll be buying the first round of drinks.

 

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Hey Peter,

     Are you using an AM tailwheel and gear?  The Kotare wheel and gear is a one-piece deal and I may upgrade it if I can find the parts.  Nothing at BNA I'm afraid.

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Peter, looking terrific and you may have made me an AK convert as you are right - it is kind of a constant battle with MRP to get the colors needed for a build.  Sigh.  

Your masking and paint work is always great to see.  The Spit is coming along nicely and you do have to admire those lines.  I have an Eduard 1/48 MVI in the stash which I just got the camo masks for, as well as the Quinta cockpit set so that might be the next build.  After I order some of the AK paints, I think!

How did the doc appts go?  When are the procedures scheduled?

Chris

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9 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Hey Peter,

     Are you using an AM tailwheel and gear?  The Kotare wheel and gear is a one-piece deal and I may upgrade it if I can find the parts.  Nothing at BNA I'm afraid.

Hi Gaz

For the Revell Spitfire, the tailwheel assembly main strut was glued in, right at the beginning stages of the build. Not sure if you are also looking to replace the Kotare main gear as well. Last week, I finished painting and building the gear and as of a few days ago, the tailwheel is also painted and finished.

Sorry I can't help out.  Not sure exactly what is one solid piece on the Kotare Spitfire. Does it look bad and a let down already?

 

 

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Hi Chris

Thanks so much for asking about my doctor appointments and they didn't go that well. I have the last appointment today and then we'll set the dates for the two procedures.

Availability these days is always a constant battle but with MRP, add in its thin distribution network and the uncertainty of finding the colors needed and even their primers has been more then shaky and frustrating. AK Real Colors is so much easier to find and so far, I've never had a problem finding stock or the colors needed. The paint is as easy to use as MRP but needs to be thinned and for me, it's a win - win situation.

The Eduard Spitfires are awesome kits and you will love building the Mk Vi kit, plus with a Quinta cockpit set - WOW!

I think in the smaller scales, cammo masks work very well in representing the actual paint work on the full size aircraft. On the model, I would assume if free handing the cammo, extra care needs to be taken to keep the cammo tight with almost no overspray, making the masks a huge plus. 

Started decaling the Spitfire and after 14 hours of work so far, I have about a third of the decals done and needed to use a combination of kit and EagleCal decals.

 

 

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DECALING

The Spitfire went thought the paint shop with only a few minor issues. The prop and spinner were also painted, decaled and the entire assembly is still just being test fitted. Decaling proved to be a bit problematic.

To my astonishment, I didn’t have enough of my go-to glosses for decal prep and instead, decided to try Alclad Aqua Clear Gloss (a full bottle) for the first time. I followed the instructions to the Tee and the results were terrible, requiring a lot of fine wet sanding to smooth everything out. A trip to the LHS a few days later, buying a number of bottles of Tamiya X22, LP9 and Mr Hobby #46 Clear Gloss; I shouldn’t have been so lazy and made the trip prior to the decal prep and saved a lot of aggravation and time.

My plan was to use EagleCal #EC 32-158 and not the kit decals and of course, that didn’t work out at all. The Eaglecal decal set (two full size sheets and one small strip sheet) were printed by Cartograf, which I purchased just before starting the build. I thought I would test the decals on the underside of the wings first with the large roundels, as there are a few good size fairing to deal with.

The EagleCal roundel seemed a bit stiff when I removed it from the very warm soak water and wouldn’t sit down, let alone conform to the fairings at all. Micro Set and Sol had little effect. I tried to carefully work the roundel over the fairing and to my astonishment, it cracked! I then started to carefully work it over a much smaller fairing and it cracked again. The roundel never even adhered to the model surface - trashed.

I decided to do the top of the wing with the kit decals and they worked perfectly, including conforming a few lumps and bumps. I later discovered the next day, they were actually a bit too large but nothing I could do about it now. Wing walk lines were also from Revell and a bit too much clear decal film edged the walk lines. All stencils were from Eaglecal.

I thought I would try the EagleCal decals on the fuselage sides and zero issues! I used decals from both of the sheets, including the one that had the underwing roundels and no issues with the balance of the decals.  

Both the Revell and EagleCal decals had the exact same aircraft represented on their decal sheets and a great case of showing that each set had a lot of small differences, especially the sizes of all the markings. There were also a number of instances where the placement of the decals was different from one instruction sheet to the other. I used what worked the best for me and looked good. For the tail flash, I used the Revell decals for no other reason then they were cut to shape and the EagleCals weren’t.

Almost all the stencil markings used were from EagleCal set.

Now it was time to see how the Revell decals preformed on the undersides of the wings and with the same amount of work, softening solutions and some fussing, they went on just fine. Go figure.

Gloss seal coat and the semi flat clear coats are next up. 

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