rkranias Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Been off the bench and LSM for quite awhile. Looks like I have a ton of catching up to do. Some great builds in the WIP. I had a chance to get in some bench time last night and the M10's are complete with addition of nuts and other surface detail at rear of tubes. Will add ordnance in tubes, ignition wires after painting and then mount. Hope to do some primer later this week. Nuts and washers punched with RP Toolz Hexagonal Punch Die. See James Hatch review RP Toolz Punch & Die Sets. Not sure if 100% accurate, think FICE. Will yield interesting and nice detail though. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave J Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Oh my! They look fantastic Rick! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Most impressive Rick Glad to have you back! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efrick Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Incredibly fine and impressive work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wackyracer Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Very very very nice Rick. Its all in the detail! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulster Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Those details will really pop out with some detailing and weathering. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 Oh my! They look fantastic Rick! thanks Dave. Gorgeous! they're real cute until they start shooting at you! Most impressive Rick Glad to have you back! thanks Nick, these last few months have been a complete blur. Incredibly fine and impressive work! thanks! Very very very nice Rick. Its all in the detail! let's hope that detail shows, thanks. Those details will really pop out with some detailing and weathering. keeping my fingers crossed for success, thanks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 It has been a struggle to find bench time with recent family obligations. That said, I'll provide some additional shots of the finished M10's along with build progress images. My final pan is to add ignition wires and ordnance before mounting to "Slick Chick". Have yet to formulate an ordnance solution. Comparison with 2 Trumpy M10's I detailed with flat lead wire. The Trumpy M10's came out ok. However, I am glad I pulled the plug on the enhancements and go with the scratch build M10's. Styrene tube cut to 2mm slices set as mount stops. End pieces, nuts and washers added Using a hairdryer I slightly heated then bent the channel styrene. Mounts with swing arms attached to the tubes. Styrene rod with ends drilled out for ignition wire conduit added to the tubes. Mounts made from styrene rod and various sizes of styrene strips. Styrene strips added for the securing wraps. 3 styrene tubes glued together is just the beginning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Hello Rick, I am very much impressed with the detail of your scratch building, I 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 oops! pushed the reply button to soon. As i was saying, your build looks fantastic, and i wil certainly buy my self a couple of those punch and die sets from RP toolz! It is just by that sort of detail that makes a model to stand out. Will be following this build with interest ! Frank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 oops! pushed the reply button to soon. As i was saying, your build looks fantastic, and i wil certainly buy my self a couple of those punch and die sets from RP toolz! It is just by that sort of detail that makes a model to stand out. Will be following this build with interest ! Frank Thanks Frank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 M10 BULLETS The M10 tubes need to be loaded so back to some creative engineering. Tubes primed with Mr.Color 1500 Black, olive drab will be main color applied. Using a 3.2mm (1/8") styrene tube I cut 6 pieces approx 2cm length. Thin the walls with a round file. A 1.5mm round rod is inserted to create depth at the rocket nozzle. The 1.5mm rod is depressed about 1mm into the tube then liquid cement applied. Will drill a small hole to accommodate the ignition wire. Will trim the rod about 3mm from tube. Plan is to paint some shade of dark aluminum. TBD. Test fit of M10 bullets and ignition wire. Wire will be trimmed and inserted into middle of each rocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 MASKING DONE AND READY TO PAINT Wheel wells, cockpit, engine cowl and various openings are masked and it's ready to start painting. I randomly shot primer on suspected areas to make sure the fill/sand/scribe/rivets are good. The windscreen is a spare and spot glued with acrylic. Wheel wells always a PITA. Lots of little pieces of Tamiya tape. Then all seams painted with liquid mask. Step one for the 368FG/395FS tail color. Yellow applied. Next will be the red and black. When tail colors complete, will mask then begin the surface prep for Alclad. The nose scheme mask will be done after Alclad applied. This is assured to give me plenty of masking angst. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 lovely stuff Rick! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
One-Oh-Four Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Great work, Rick! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trigger Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 looking great Rick, or should i say " it looks slick, Rick" I am almost tempted to buy me a p47, i have always admired the sheer strength that this plane displays. Looking forward to the further paint job on this one, Greetings , Frank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 BLACK FROM THE ATTACK Mr. Color 1500 Surfacer applied. Finish tail markings with red and NATO Black and Black mix. Light sand with 4000 Micro Mesh, clean and apply Alclad base prep. Then the question, apply cowling/fuselage art before or after Alclad application? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 i don't follow Rick (well, I actually I AM following you, but anyway...) how could you apply the artwork *before* the Alclad? can't wait to see more of this big beast! Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 i don't follow Rick (well, I actually I AM following you, but anyway...) how could you apply the artwork *before* the Alclad? can't wait to see more of this big beast! Nick Apply the red paint on the cowling and fuselage. Mask then apply the Alclad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 26, 2014 Author Share Posted September 26, 2014 "SLICK CHICK" IS WELL ENDOWED After applying the final coat of primer I found a few seams that needed some attention. While the liquid putty dries I decided to do a ordnance test fit. There is much work to be done, but this was fun. Detail, weather and wire fuses to the 500 GP bombs Paint, detail, weather, bullets and ignition wire for the M10's Prime and paint for the brass blast tubes Apologizes for the iPhone pics. My modelling geekness got aroused and I look forward to the next phases of this build. Keep fingers crossed for a happy Alclad day. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanReed Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Good Luck! Looking Great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skybouncer Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Wow! Nice Jug(s)! Excellent work so far! I just love the look of this giant fighterbomber. I really like the bomb surface and the work you invested in the Launchers. This makes a difference. To bad you didnt rivet this baby, with Alclad NMF on this really rocks. I did this some year ago with my Hase Jug: You dont have to spray the nose first. Just apply alclad and half an hour later you can apply the next color over it. Just polish it first to eliminate possible flat spray residues. I really wont worry about alclad itself - if applied to a propper base. I just hate the alclad black base. It didnt cure for 3 weeks and finally i had a fully cracked finish on a F-86D 1 week after finishing it. Since this happened i only use gloss black acrylics for this purpose... or just applying it on the bare plastic. Hase Plastic bonds good with aclad, as Tamiya does. Well, maybe i did something wrong while applying the black base from alcad, but I wont use it again until I try it on a sparepart ;-) Cheers from Austria Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkranias Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Wow! Nice Jug(s)! Excellent work so far! I just love the look of this giant fighterbomber. I really like the bomb surface and the work you invested in the Launchers. This makes a difference. To bad you didnt rivet this baby, with Alclad NMF on this really rocks. I did this some year ago with my Hase Jug: You dont have to spray the nose first. Just apply alclad and half an hour later you can apply the next color over it. Just polish it first to eliminate possible flat spray residues. I really wont worry about alclad itself - if applied to a propper base. I just hate the alclad black base. It didnt cure for 3 weeks and finally i had a fully cracked finish on a F-86D 1 week after finishing it. Since this happened i only use gloss black acrylics for this purpose... or just applying it on the bare plastic. Hase Plastic bonds good with aclad, as Tamiya does. Well, maybe i did something wrong while applying the black base from alcad, but I wont use it again until I try it on a sparepart ;-) Cheers from Austria Jerry Thanks Jerry and welcome to the forum. I concur with Doogs, that's a spectacular rivet job. I do aspire to someday rivet an entire a/c. Thanks for the Alclad first then nose color recommendation. I have decided to take that method. The Alcad quick dry factor won me over. Agree on the Alclad surface prep. I used a mix of Tamiya Gloss Black X-1 + Tamiya Clear X-22 + Mr Color Leveling Thinner (1:1:2) for my Alclad base on my P-80 and had zero issues with finish and masking for different Alclad colors. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
One-Oh-Four Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Ey Rick, how's the alclad holding up? *Curious!* 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazypoet Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 I love this bird! I look forward to your next updates. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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