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The Great LSP Twins Group Build Starts Jan 24, 2024 - End July 3, 2024 ×

1:32 Hasegawa P47D "Slick Chick"


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Been off the bench and LSM for quite awhile.  Looks like I have a ton of catching up to do.  Some great builds in the WIP.

 

I had a chance to get in some bench time last night and the M10's are complete with addition of nuts and other surface detail at rear of tubes.  Will add ordnance in tubes, ignition wires after painting and then mount. 

 

Hope to do some primer later this week.

 

M10_Build_RK14.jpg

Nuts and washers punched with RP Toolz Hexagonal Punch Die.  See James Hatch review RP Toolz Punch & Die Sets.

 

M10_Build_RK1701.jpg

Not sure if 100% accurate, think FICE.  Will yield interesting and nice detail though.

 

M10_Build_RK16.jpg

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Oh my! They look fantastic Rick!

thanks Dave.

 

Gorgeous!

they're real cute until they start shooting at you!  :)

 

Most impressive Rick

 

Glad to have you back!

thanks Nick, these last few months have been a complete blur.

 

Incredibly fine and impressive work!   :thumbsup2::notworthy:

thanks!

 

Very very very nice Rick. Its all in the detail!

let's hope that detail shows, thanks.

 

Those details will really pop out with some detailing and weathering.

keeping my fingers crossed for success, thanks.

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It has been a struggle to find bench time with recent family obligations.  That said, I'll provide some additional shots of the finished M10's along with build progress images. 

 

My final pan is to add ignition wires and ordnance before mounting to "Slick Chick".  Have yet to formulate an ordnance solution.

 

M10_Build_RK20.jpg

Comparison with 2 Trumpy M10's I detailed with flat lead wire.  The Trumpy M10's came out ok.  However, I am glad I pulled the plug on the enhancements and go with the scratch build M10's. 

 

M10_Build_RK19.jpg

Styrene tube cut to 2mm slices set as mount stops.

 

M10_Build_RK21.jpg

End pieces, nuts and washers added

 

M10_Build_RK13.jpg

Using a hairdryer I slightly heated then bent the channel styrene.

 

M10_Build_RK12.jpg

Mounts with swing arms attached to the tubes.

 

M10_Build_RK10.jpg

Styrene rod with ends drilled out for ignition wire conduit added to the tubes.  Mounts made from styrene rod and various sizes of styrene strips.

 

M10_Build_RK07.jpg

Styrene strips added for the securing wraps.

 

M10_Bazooka01.jpg

3 styrene tubes glued together is just the beginning.

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oops! pushed the reply button to soon.

 

As i was saying, your build looks fantastic,  and i wil certainly buy my self a couple of those punch and die sets from RP toolz!

It is just by that sort of detail that makes a model to stand out.

Will be following this build with interest !

 

Frank

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  • 1 month later...

oops! pushed the reply button to soon.

 

As i was saying, your build looks fantastic,  and i wil certainly buy my self a couple of those punch and die sets from RP toolz!

It is just by that sort of detail that makes a model to stand out.

Will be following this build with interest !

 

Frank

Thanks Frank.

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M10 BULLETS

 

The M10 tubes need to be loaded so back to some creative engineering.  Tubes primed with Mr.Color 1500 Black, olive drab will be main color applied.

 

M10_Bullets01.jpg

Using a 3.2mm (1/8") styrene tube I cut 6 pieces approx 2cm length.

 

M10_Bullets02.jpg

Thin the walls with a round file.

 

M10_Bullets03.jpg

A 1.5mm round rod is inserted to create depth at the rocket nozzle.

 

M10_Bullets04.jpg

The 1.5mm rod is depressed about 1mm into the tube then liquid cement applied.

 

M10_Bullets05.jpg

Will drill a small hole to accommodate the ignition wire.

 

M10_Bullets07.jpg

Will trim the rod about 3mm from tube.  Plan is to paint some shade of dark aluminum.  TBD.

 

M10_Bullets06.jpg

Test fit of M10 bullets and ignition wire.  Wire will be trimmed and inserted into middle of each rocket.

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MASKING DONE AND READY TO PAINT

 

Wheel wells, cockpit, engine cowl and various openings are masked and it's ready to start painting.   I randomly shot primer on suspected areas to make sure the fill/sand/scribe/rivets are good.

 

P47_SlickChickPaint05.jpg

The windscreen is a spare and spot glued with acrylic.

 

P47_SlickChickPaint04.jpg

 

P47_SlickChickPaint03.jpg

Wheel wells always a PITA.  Lots of little pieces of Tamiya tape.  Then all seams painted with liquid mask.

 

P47_SlickChickPaint02.jpg

 

P47_SlickChickPaint01.jpg

Step one for the 368FG/395FS tail color.  Yellow applied.  Next will be the red and black.   When tail colors complete, will mask then begin the surface prep for Alclad.

 

2e6cb48e-a906-453c-a45c-1f5bd6a97342.jpg

The nose scheme mask will be done after Alclad applied.   This is assured to give me plenty of masking angst.

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looking great Rick, or should i say " it looks slick, Rick"

 

I am almost tempted to buy me a p47, i have always admired the sheer strength that this plane displays. 

 

Looking forward to the further paint job on this one,

 

Greetings ,

 

Frank

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BLACK FROM THE ATTACK

 

Mr. Color 1500 Surfacer applied. 

 

Finish tail markings with red and NATO Black and Black mix.  Light sand with 4000 Micro Mesh, clean and apply Alclad base prep.  Then the question, apply cowling/fuselage art before or after Alclad application?

 

P47_SlickChickPaint06.jpg

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i don't follow Rick (well, I actually I AM following you, but anyway...)

 

how could you apply the artwork *before* the Alclad?

 

can't wait to see more of this big beast!

 

Nick

Apply the red paint on the cowling and fuselage.  Mask then apply the Alclad.

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"SLICK CHICK" IS WELL ENDOWED

 

After applying the final coat of primer I found a few seams that needed some attention.  While the liquid putty dries I decided to do a ordnance test fit.  There is much work to be done, but this was fun.

  • Detail, weather and wire fuses to the 500 GP bombs
  • Paint, detail, weather, bullets and ignition wire for the M10's
  • Prime and paint for the brass blast tubes

 

Apologizes for the iPhone pics.

 

Jug_Arms02.jpg

 

Jug_Arms01.jpg

 

Jug_Arms04.jpg

 

Jug_Arms03.jpg

 

My modelling geekness got aroused and I look forward to the next phases of this build.  Keep fingers crossed for

a happy Alclad day.

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Wow! Nice Jug(s)! Excellent work so far! I just love the look of this giant fighterbomber.

I really like the bomb surface and the work you invested in the Launchers. This makes a difference. To bad you didnt rivet this baby, with Alclad NMF on this really rocks. I did this some year ago with my Hase Jug:

 

l4x8x2.jpg

 

You dont have to spray the nose first. Just apply alclad and half an hour later you can apply the next color over it. Just polish it first to eliminate possible flat spray residues.

I really wont worry about alclad itself - if applied to a propper base. I just hate the alclad black base. It didnt cure for 3 weeks and finally i had a fully cracked finish on a F-86D 1 week after finishing it. Since this happened i only use gloss black acrylics for this purpose... or just applying it on the bare plastic. Hase Plastic bonds good with aclad, as Tamiya does. Well, maybe i did something wrong while applying the black base from alcad, but I wont use it again until I try it on a sparepart ;-)

 

Cheers from Austria

Jerry

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Wow! Nice Jug(s)! Excellent work so far! I just love the look of this giant fighterbomber.

I really like the bomb surface and the work you invested in the Launchers. This makes a difference. To bad you didnt rivet this baby, with Alclad NMF on this really rocks. I did this some year ago with my Hase Jug:

 

l4x8x2.jpg

 

You dont have to spray the nose first. Just apply alclad and half an hour later you can apply the next color over it. Just polish it first to eliminate possible flat spray residues.

I really wont worry about alclad itself - if applied to a propper base. I just hate the alclad black base. It didnt cure for 3 weeks and finally i had a fully cracked finish on a F-86D 1 week after finishing it. Since this happened i only use gloss black acrylics for this purpose... or just applying it on the bare plastic. Hase Plastic bonds good with aclad, as Tamiya does. Well, maybe i did something wrong while applying the black base from alcad, but I wont use it again until I try it on a sparepart ;-)

 

Cheers from Austria

Jerry

Thanks Jerry and welcome to the forum.  I concur with Doogs, that's a spectacular rivet job.  I do aspire to someday rivet an entire a/c. 

 

Thanks for the Alclad first then nose color recommendation.  I have decided to take that method.  The Alcad quick dry factor won me over. 

 

Agree on the Alclad surface prep.  I used a mix of Tamiya Gloss Black X-1 + Tamiya Clear X-22 + Mr Color Leveling Thinner (1:1:2) for my Alclad base on my P-80 and had zero issues with finish and masking for different Alclad colors.

 

P80B02Underside.jpg

 

Thanks again.

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