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Mikester

Bf 109G-10, 2./JG 300, "Red 8" (1/32 Hasegawa)

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OK, here we go again.  The G-10 will no longer be an Italian bird, it will now be "Red 8" of 2./JG 300. 

 

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Here are the catch-up pics of the cockpit and the Cutting Edge Erla conversion set.

 

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OK, those of you who were following along previously know what a flaming turd the Cutting Edge conversion set is.  You'll note that the port panel had to be replaced with sheet styrene I sanded a hole in it while smoothing and after at least twenty attempts to fill the hole smoothly (no that's not an exagerration) I finally gave up and replaced it.  Here is the end result of the sanding, filling and re-scribing:

 

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As you can see the fit issues are not over:

 

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Special thanks to Photobucket for taking a simple, easy to use interface and turning it into a festering pile of cow manure! 

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Whoa, talk about fighting you. However, you're definitely getting on top.  Nice job Mike.

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You're making a good fist of it Mike...

 

I have this conversion set tucked away in the stash, but needless to say I can't see myself using mine in the forseeable future. There's just too many accuracy issues, on top of the fit issues that you're revealing here.

 

Following with interest...

 

Steve.

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I just like drastic conversions like this, must say something about me, hmm

Cees

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You're making a good fist of it Mike...

 

I have this conversion set tucked away in the stash, but needless to say I can't see myself using mine in the forseeable future. There's just too many accuracy issues, on top of the fit issues that you're revealing here.

 

Following with interest...

 

Steve.

 

Thanks, Steve.  I've gone back and read a couple of reviews by Brett Green and Floyd Werner and they didn't seem to have the same fit issues as I did, so my problems may have been self-induced.  On the accuracy side, I've heard that the the shape of the cowl is off but I'll be the first to admit that I don't have a great eye for discerning shape issues.  I think the EagleParts kit is probably superior to this one in just about every aspect though, as long as you can live with the spine of the Hasegawa G-10 being a little off.

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As others have said, hang in there!

 

What EagleParts set is this?

Afaik there is nothing in production out there for an Erla G-10, which I could never really understand.

I think Steve Gallacci made the masters for EP, and said he was doing some more, but by his own admission he was not very reliable regarding production commitments.

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As others have said, hang in there!

 

What EagleParts set is this?

Afaik there is nothing in production out there for an Erla G-10, which I could never really understand.

I think Steve Gallacci made the masters for EP, and said he was doing some more, but by his own admission he was not very reliable regarding production commitments.

 

Nick, I have two sets from the original batch of Eagle Parts Erla conversions, they've been OOP for a while now.  I recall him (Steve G.) making a comment about approaching Jerry Crandall about doing another batch but it appears nothing has happened with that.

 

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I'm just about through with the cowling (finally)!  Everything smoothed in with the exception of the S/C intake, still a bit of sanding to do there and then add the weld seam.

 

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You've done an amazing job with this Mike - I'm so looking forward to the next stage,

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Just about ready for paint, finished up detailing the wheel wells.  I've drilled out the lightening holes in the strut bay, coated the wheel bay in lead foil and made the leather liner with some lead foil as well.  After all the problems I had my last build with resin inserts for this area I've decided this the way to go, just as detailed and practically free compared to $15 plus for an aftermarket part.

 

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And one last shot before paint:

 

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Nice work on the wheel wells...

 

Good to see you making some progress on this one.

 

S.

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Well, I began the painting process and as we all know paint is a harsh mistress when it come to pointing out flaws.  My scribing around the cowl area sucked, this is no surprise because this is one area of modelling that I have been  unable to master.  Regardless, I had to do better so puttied everything over and started again.  I also realized that the base plate for the S/C intake sucked (pardon the pun).  This was not my fault but I set out to rectify it nonetheless.  Silicon smash molds to the rescue!  This was given to me by a buddy and fellow modeler over in Japan.  If you can read those squiggly lines you can tell me what the name is.  It does say "For Authentic Creator" however, we'll see how authentic I am!

 

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The process is to heat this in hot water, I nuked water in a coffee cup in the microwave for three minutes and dropped this in.  Leave it in for a minute and it's pliable and ready to go.  I molded this over the intake plate of a Hasegawa G-10.  Let it cool for a few minutes and it's ready to go.  But wait, I don't have any resin!  Tamiya Light Curing Putty to the rescue!  Smear some in, let it dry and there you go.  The silicon is completely reusable, drop it in hot water to re-form it and it's ready for the next project.

 

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Hey Mike,

 

Does this mean that that the whole intake area is being re-worked, and that you'll be using the Hasegawa intake, or parts from one of those Eagle Editions sets you have squirreled away?

 

This smash mold method seems a good and simple fix for these small detail parts...

 

Steve.

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Steve,

 

I removed the molded in base plate from the cowl and will use my new one adapted to the S/C intake from the CE set.  A little blending required to mate everything up but I think it should be an improvement. 

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Very clever Mike, that's an amazing piece of stuff .. whatever it's called .. Authentic Creator for want of a better name.

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