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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Arado 234 Nachtigall on Speed


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On 6/23/2023 at 4:49 PM, KevinM said:

That's alot of tape:rolleyes:

 

On 6/24/2023 at 9:28 AM, GazzaS said:

Wow!  I feel for you, brother.

 

On 6/24/2023 at 4:09 PM, Peterpools said:

OMG, I would never have the patience or stamina to apply all the masking a Kabuki tape. I know it's going to be well worth the time and energy. Of course, I right with Gaz as well.

Thanks for your sympathy, guys. I've never made something like this before, I definitely need a relaxed build soon and something to show with the finished Arado, to rectify the expense.

Cheers Rob

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More plane bondage. It doesn't look like much, but I finished the basic masking all over, including the external tanks and sprayed the crosses and whit markings first, then the yellow triangles on top and finally a dot of blue for the oxygen inlet stencil. All these steps include permanent over- and remasking :hsmack:. My next build will be Kabuki free.

Cheers Rob

 

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Truly a lot of masking there Rob. The results will be worth it I'm sure. 

The closest I've come to something like that was my F-4E build. I used Eduard PE stencils on that one but just masked around them. I did a few at a time and then moved them to their next spot. The inner wing ones were multipart as well so those took care. 

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39 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Truly a lot of masking there Rob. The results will be worth it I'm sure. 

The closest I've come to something like that was my F-4E build. I used Eduard PE stencils on that one but just masked around them. I did a few at a time and then moved them to their next spot. The inner wing ones were multipart as well so those took care. 

Thank you Carl, I hope so. There is no telling, before lifting all that tape. I hope, I don't glue myself to the floor, doing so.
Similar, than your approach was mine with the Corsair. With the Arado it is more complicated, because of multi colored stencils (total of five colors) and of the places the markings are on. There are long walkway lines on the fuselage and wings, surrounded by stencils of various colors. Then there are the engine nacelles, it's easier to spray stencils on a Corsair or Phantom.
My only built F-4 was a ZM -J model with excellent Cartograph decals. I would never attempt a full stenciling job on a F-4, equal which scale.

Cheers Rob

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Thanks Peter, I can't tell you if it was a wise decision, maybe I should have given the decals a better prepared try with polished gloss coating, to hinder silvering. They behaved absolutely fantastic besides the silvering issue. 

Cheers Rob

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Stripping off the masks revealed, that there are some touch ups needed here and there but nothing mayor, like paint running under masks or other gruesome incidents. The de-masking took about four hours in a sleepless night. The masks behaved perfect, adhered well and were removable residue free, at least here...

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For black markings and crosses, I used a mix of two thirds flat black and one third Nato black, the white got a tiny drop of sand added and was only sprayed 90% opaque.

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Super fine markings, heavily macroed:

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With the last step of de-masking, I experienced something unexpected. While removing the masks of the external tanks, I found, that the 1ManArmy stencil masks were nearly impossible to remove, completely contrary than on the airframe and left they sticky residues onto the surface. 
First I suspected the red color to be the culprit, but it was the same Tamiya XF flat red, I used onto the plane, thinned with Mr. Levelling Thinner, where it worked flawless. When I removed more masks made from my stock Kabuki tape without issues, it became clear, that somehow the adhesive from the 1ManArmy masks must have been reacted with the base layer of Matte Aluminum from AK's Extreme Metal range. Normally these behave absolutely perfect and it was not the aluminum color which was affected. The masks were only for some hours on the tanks.

Warning be careful, if you plan to use 1ManArmy masks over AK's Extreme metals for a NMF paintjob possibly. I would recommend some testing on a dummy.

This is how the tanks looked after nearly half an hour of peeling. I couldn't remove the residues any further manually. I tried an alcohol/aqua dest mix, which was not hot enough and a rub with IPA removed the red color completely. Now it's deep cleaning, respraying and decals :censored:.

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Cheers Rob

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Great results on the Arado. Interesting and unfortunate side effects on the tanks though. I think you're right it's the AK Xtreme Metal rathe than anything else. At least it's only the tanks and a relatively small fix overall. 

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Rob

Amazing work and the time needed to apply, air brush - painting and removal is way over the top for me. Even though the results are incredible and look perfect, the stencil work does require an all-out assault on the builder's patience and commitment. After all the planning and work, the tanks showed, issues can and will come to the surface. Sorry that you now need to devote time to stripping and redoing the tanks plus the decal work.

After following your journey with 1ManArmy masks and stencils, I would have no issues in using them for the major markings where silvering could be an issue (as I did on my ZM 109) and some of the stencils but for the balance, I would lean much more towards traditional decals. Just my two cents as I'm so comfortable in going the traditional decal route. I've never actually gone to the extent you have applying the full complement of stencils and honestly way beyond my ability in energy, patience and time.

I tip my cap for a job so perfectly done and much appreciated the warning about how 1Man Army stencil masks react with AK Extreme metals.

 

 

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2 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Great results on the Arado. Interesting and unfortunate side effects on the tanks though. I think you're right it's the AK Xtreme Metal rathe than anything else. At least it's only the tanks and a relatively small fix overall. 

Thank you Carl, luckily only the tanks were affected. I would have blindly used the 1ManArmy masks with Extreme Metals as a base, given my experiences with both, color and masks. Now I'm forewarned, luckily. The tanks were painted some weeks ago and have cured properly. I never had any issues with these colors other than noticing, Titanium is less durable than the others. Matte aluminum, I have used in every thinkable situation.

Cheers Rob 

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1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Amazing work and the time needed to apply, air brush - painting and removal is way over the top for me. Even though the results are incredible and look perfect, the stencil work does require an all-out assault on the builder's patience and commitment. After all the planning and work, the tanks showed, issues can and will come to the surface. Sorry that you now need to devote time to stripping and redoing the tanks plus the decal work.

After following your journey with 1ManArmy masks and stencils, I would have no issues in using them for the major markings where silvering could be an issue (as I did on my ZM 109) and some of the stencils but for the balance, I would lean much more towards traditional decals. Just my two cents as I'm so comfortable in going the traditional decal route. I've never actually gone to the extent you have applying the full complement of stencils and honestly way beyond my ability in energy, patience and time.

I tip my cap for a job so perfectly done and much appreciated the warning about how 1Man Army stencil masks react with AK Extreme metals.

Thank you Peter, sometime it's about “A man's got to do what a man's got to do.” :D. Where would be the fun in modelling, a completely time and effort wasting hobby, when the spent effort wouldn't be maximized with unnecessary tasks. There is no way to explain what we do to an outsider, it's only us nerds, modelling is important to, so let's keep this little island afloat with some self flagellation.

Other than you, I have very mixed results with decals and permanently look for other possibilities. Wet transfers have their pros and look similar to masked stencils filled with the airbrush, but the process is error prone and my results were always ranging from perfect to unusable in the same build. Masking is even more time consuming, but until the tanks, I had no other issues than that. Decaling, well, I hate to see a silvered model, close before the finish line. I had some good experiences,  like Aviattic decals and ZM's decals for the Kai-Phantom, but many others, even Cartograph printed ones. As I don't see me using masks with all my future builds, I should prepare myself, to maximize the decal results with even better preparation and dedication.

I'm still eager to see, how your new Eduard decals work on the P-51, my efforts in peeling off the carrier film on my USS Arizona build, were unsuccessful and the decals with carrier film on looked horrible. Better test with some spares. 

Cheers Rob

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Interesting reaction with the masks Rob. I had a similar problem on the P-47 I did using Maketar masks with the Extreme Metals. They were vinyl masks but again left a residue on the Aluminium paint which I just couldn't remove. Similar to you they were only down for about 24 hrs but that was long enough.

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14 hours ago, GusMac said:

Interesting reaction with the masks Rob. I had a similar problem on the P-47 I did using Maketar masks with the Extreme Metals. They were vinyl masks but again left a residue on the Aluminium paint which I just couldn't remove. Similar to you they were only down for about 24 hrs but that was long enough.

Seems like we are in the same boat with these issues Gus. I used Maketar Kabuki masks on different occasions and never had complaints. I can't remember, if I used them on Extreme Metals though.

Cheers Rob

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11 hours ago, GazzaS said:

The model looks great.  Odd thing about the masks. I'll try to make a mental note about the reaction...  

Me too, Gary, I had the idea to build my Tamiya Mossie in Australian livery in NMF, using these masks for the stencils. Not so much more, I guess.

Cheers Rob

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To subdue the camo contrasts a bit and to enhance the visibility of the panel lines, I applied Flory clay wash dirt type onto the whole airplane and wiped the excess away with damp kitchen towel and cotton buds. It's more visible on the underside naturally, but it ties the paintjob together. I will not apply more weathering, as I think, the service time of these night fighters was brief.

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I resprayed and decaled the external tanks along the Rato rocket packs (not shown). There are no masks for the Ratos stencils provided by 1ManArmy. The gun pod was treated with clay wash as well and got it's resin barrels inserted. Now there are only some small works to do until final assembly, which I will start from the underside up, beginning with the wheel struts.

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Cheers Rob

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I can't tell you how happy I am, to have reached this point. The Nachtigall is not done, there is a lot do do until she is finished, but adding the subassemblies to the underside and remove the masks from the canopy was a major step.
The canopy had some staining on the glass, where I'm not sure, where they came from. Luckily,  could rub them carefully away with a cut toothpick. The framing needs to be decaled with rivets, the black color is only the base level.
I hope the landing gear holds up, as the Arado is a really heavy bird with all the heavy resin bits inside and the heavy nose weight as well.

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Cheers Rob

 

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Brilliant Rob.  I read years ago that one of the problems encountered in the night fighter version was caused by the glazed lower canopy.  Airfield lighting, only turned on for the shortest time, was distorted by the shape of the glazing which lead to accidents.

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19 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Amazing work - simply beautifully done. I tip my hat as you have had a good deal is issues to overcome and all have worked your way through each perfectly.

 

15 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Fantastic job Rob. The weathering is perfect. 

Thank you Peter and Carl, I'm really happy to have reached this point of the build, but have to say in a way the build was demanding and motivating, but never really frustrating. That's how I like difficult builds.

Cheers Rob

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16 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Brilliant Rob.  I read years ago that one of the problems encountered in the night fighter version was caused by the glazed lower canopy.  Airfield lighting, only turned on for the shortest time, was distorted by the shape of the glazing which lead to accidents.

Thank you Gary, I didn't know about the landing accidents, but the canopy was one of the shortcomings for the night fighter role. Everything, explosions, the guns, search lights, reflected multiple times in the glazing and there was no protection for the pilot.
You also wouldn't want to fire the guns from the pod with extended front landing gear :hsmack:.

Cheers Rob

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7 hours ago, DocRob said:

Thank you Gary, I didn't know about the landing accidents, but the canopy was one of the shortcomings for the night fighter role. Everything, explosions, the guns, search lights, reflected multiple times in the glazing and there was no protection for the pilot.
You also wouldn't want to fire the guns from the pod with extended front landing gear :hsmack:.

Cheers Rob

with tanks and pod...   I have to wonder what happened to overall speed.  still, the model looks ultra excellent with all of that gear hanging off.

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