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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

WnW Sopwith 2F.1 ShIps Camel.


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28 minutes ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Looks like you're off to a good start on the rigging. 

I've only built 1 more WNW kit than you Phil so I'd say you're doing just fine. 

Carl

Thanks Carl, early stages......... so two lessons already learnt, AK Extreme Metal does not like Tamiya acrylic...:wallbash: and remembering to decal before adding controls horns and rigging...........

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Rob, much appreciated.......I see (or not ) what you mean about using the Chameleon..........did I read you can use heat to tension it up, I tried with  a soldering iron near the line and it seemed to work????.......

i actually wired the engine as well with lead wire, another first for me........still looks crappy against you what you guys produce......I read Mikes (Sandbaggers) notes on his Camel. He suggested 0.4mm tubing for the ferrels, I have some but cannot thread it......closest I have is 0.6mm, will work..?

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10 minutes ago, TJTX said:

Looking really good.  I do enjoy the varying problems and solutions that come with the different generations of aircraft models.  WW1 is certainly unique in its modeling requirements. 

Thanks, much appreciated, I am learning a lot on this one for sure.....its a time of first’s for me, first jet just finished and then my first WW1 biplane.......

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14 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Rob, much appreciated.......I see (or not ) what you mean about using the Chameleon..........did I read you can use heat to tension it up, I tried with  a soldering iron near the line and it seemed to work????.......

Hi Phil, I didn't mean tensioning with heat, I meant using turnbuckles like Bob's or self made ones cut from micro tube.
First you thread the Chameleon line through a micro tube with inner diameter of 0,3mm, then through the anchor point/eyelet and again (a bit fiddly) through the micro tube. When  you pull the Chameleon line taut with tweezers, they are almost self fastening and a drop of CA makes that permanent. Rigged this way, the rigging becomes kind of a structural element and gives more rigidity.

I hope my babbeling is understandable :D.

Cheers Rob

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Thanks Rob, I must admit I am struggling without the turnbuckles, I’ll try the micro tube.........as finances stand and going into 4 week lockdown plus still no work I see what I have instead of ordering stuff.......it may have to go back on the shelf......

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1 hour ago, Bomber_County said:

Thanks Rob, I must admit I am struggling without the turnbuckles, I’ll try the micro tube.........as finances stand and going into 4 week lockdown plus still no work I see what I have instead of ordering stuff.......it may have to go back on the shelf......

That's a tough situation Phil, and I hope it will be better soon.

You don't have to go the expensive way though, just use brass micro tube with the inner diameter of 0,3 and outer diameter of 0,5 mm. With a scalpel rolling, you cut ca. 0,3-0,5 cm (depending the type of turnbuckle) length from the tube and don't forget to clean the holes with a micro drill.

The eylets can be made of thin wire by yourself, use a small metal hook, bend the wire around and twist the hook. Cut the twisted part and you have an eyelet.

Sounds complicated, it isn't so much. It takes some effort, but it's well wort it.

For easier rigging, you can glue in all the eylets into pre drilled holes and then rig all the wires from the upper wing first. After assembling the upper wing onto the struts, you have to do the rigging only on the lower wing to complete the process.

Cheers Rob

IMG_6755.thumb.JPG.575108bd7b1264d9c0337b91312139eb.JPG

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2 hours ago, DocRob said:

You don't have to go the expensive way though, just use brass micro tube 

Thanks Rob, you’re an absolute star, I’ll give it a go. I’ve tried the drill the hole and CA the chameleon into it, the CA is a bit old so doesn’t go off to quick..:wacko: I have a new tube , I’ll try that.......

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1 mm tube definitely looks too big, agreed ...

Albion Alloys have some 0.5 mm dia tube, with 0.3 mm inner diameter. One 350 mm tube will get you a long way on rigging a biplane. I can send you one if you want. 
 

As for tensioning, a soldering iron is a bit too big as well. I personally use an incandescent toothpick. Light it with a lighter, blow off the flame, and get the incandescent tip under (about 1 cm) the monofilament. It will shrink magically ;) ,

HTH

Hubert

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Prym is like $3.

Stretching ear bud tubes is a challenge not worth the time. I tried that and getting them all the same diameter is tough.

After examining all of the available options I used the Prym and some of the p/e flat rigging as well as numerous materials for the connection points.

I beleive LiSP still has The Biff Piece in their data base , I didn't hide anything when it came to the rigging , so worth the time to look at.

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