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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Das Kamel - Hansa Brandenburg W.12


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3 minutes ago, DocRob said:

The Kamel got a flat varnish and that helped to tone down the contrasts between the different Lozenge patterns. This will be the base for oils and weathering.

Rob , absolutely stunning, which Matt varnish do you use? Do you thin yours down.......going to attempt to use Vallejo Matt varnish to seal the decals on the F4J

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11 minutes ago, Bomber_County said:

Rob , absolutely stunning, which Matt varnish do you use? Do you thin yours down.......going to attempt to use Vallejo Matt varnish to seal the decals on the F4J

Thanks Phil, I use Pledge floor cleaner with 30% added Tamiya Flat Base.
Do not mix more than 35% of Flat Base into the mix, as it will cloud. It may even cloud with less, when applied too thick. The benefit of my method is, you have control over the grade of dullness from near gloss to dead flat. The other thing you have to take into account, that Pledge and other floor polishes sometimes react with other chemicals like decal softeners or lacquer thinners.

Cheers Rob

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Today some long awaited oil colours arrived, so what better than trying them out. The Aviattic linen decals were a little bit on the cold side for my liking colourwise, which led me to warm and wear them with light yellow and faded yellow (a light orange tone in fact). The white underlying the Balkenkreuze recieved some light grey oil treatment.
The oils were applied randomly with a sawbrush working right to left. Then I worked the oils in with a little thinner in the direction of the airflow, while modulating the colours with cleaning the brush more and more between the strokes.

In the end, I got what I wanted. The wings look weather beaten and have an enhanced colour richness and reduced contrast between colours. I love to work  with oils and will continue after drying with the fuselage and Lozenge upper sides.

Cheers Rob

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Before and after 

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All done

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Working with oils is pure fun, so I went a little overboard with it, or maybe not. I used different light grey, blue and olive green oils to modulate the fuselage. Generally I like the effect, but am not decided, If I take a little bit away from that (that's the best with oils, you can always remove everything), or I use a neutral clay wash, which will roughly cleaned in the way of the airflow.
The oils were applied as to emphasize different panels and then were partly removed with a spirit dampened saw brush using it in the direction of the airflow and up and down.

Cheers Rob

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The still untreated side

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2 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Rob, the oils make a huge difference. Thanks for showing the before and after. I still haven't tried using oils but may just have to. 

I love these oil colours more and more, you can remove them, you can dab and articulate them and they apply absolutely thin, so you get the colour without loosing detail. It's like painting and using a wash at the same time and you can emphasize lots of effects like streaking or blending.

Cheers Rob

1 hour ago, Bomber_County said:

You are the Dude, Rob.....this is turning into a masterclass, looking stunning.....

Thanks Phil, I will try to keep Dudeism up :D.

Cheers Rob

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Some more adventures from oil colour land. I finished the fuselage and modulated a bit more while knocking back the colours a bit. I went to the floats then, which received light grey oils for salt and olive green for algae.
Tomorrow I will decide, if the fuselage will get some clay wash applied and the Lozenge has to be oiled.

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The oils really bring out the shapes, Rob.  Now...  report to the Kommandant for leaving your aircraft in the water for so long that marine life is taking shape.

 

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Is this what you're thinking of?

 

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2 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Now...  report to the Kommandant for leaving your aircraft in the water for so long that marine life is taking shape.

Hehe, guilty as charged :D.
I've seen that epic build in your picture and even if I would be able to do something like this, my plans are slightly different. My Kamel should look well used and worn, maybe with no time to pull it out of the water for some time, being exposed to the harsh conditions on the island of Sylt.

I was thinking about a dio with the plane floating near a beach of the Königshafen in the north of Sylt with a plank leading to one of the floats occupied bey either the CSM crew or the fascinated boy, which I originally bought to accompany my WNW AEG. But in all the dio is a maybe, I want to train on acrylic water with my 1/48 Walrus.

Cheers Rob

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3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

The oils really bring out the shapes, Rob.  Now...  report to the Kommandant for leaving your aircraft in the water for so long that marine life is taking shape.

 

111.jpg

Is this what you're thinking of?

 

ein wirklicher Hammer !!!

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48 minutes ago, Jeff said:

The floats are SPECTACULAR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You nailed them , the look is just perfect, Rob....:respect:

Thanks Jeff, I would have said the build is fun only, but today was a bad day for my nerves, I think I need some drinks in the evening to reduce the shivering.
I applied grime clay wash onto all surfaces, which I tested without problems on a piece of cowling and an aileron before. When it came to removing the wash from the fuselage, there happened nearly nothing. I purposely applied the wash uneven which looked horrible now.
I cursed, I rubbed, I dabbed, I watered, I grinded softly, cursed again, used a lot of different brushes and swabs from soft to stiff and even managed to break the number and Balkenkreuz decal on both sides of the fuselage.
After two hours netto (in total four hours with all the cursing and arising horror) I declared the fuselage as usable, where  I thought of using it as a lawn dart.
The wings and other parts were as easy to clean as I expected for the whole plane.

Lesson learned, don't use clay wash directly on oils. I surely was expecting a kind of 'interaction', but that blew mew off.

Cheers Rob

 That's how it looks now, a bit too worn for what I was hoping, but I will continue. Sylt in the wintertime is a really harsh environment :D.

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Such amazing work Rob, wow!  

Can I ask what airbrush/needle size you used to preshade the areas alongside those 0.5mm strips?  I have an Iwata eclipse with a 0.35mm needle I think, and have been thinking about getting a smaller one for fine detail work.

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1 hour ago, Bomber_County said:

Wow Rob, the fuselage looks great......a large glass of red wine for this gentleman.......

Thanks Phil, do you now the song by 'The Reverend Horton Heat', which is called 'It's Martini Time', this will be more like it :wine:

55 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Such amazing work Rob, wow!  

Can I ask what airbrush/needle size you used to preshade the areas alongside those 0.5mm strips?  I have an Iwata eclipse with a 0.35mm needle I think, and have been thinking about getting a smaller one for fine detail work.

Muchas gracias Mike, I use a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity with a 0,2 mm needle for the pre shading using diluted Tamiya Smoke.
For other purposes, I switch to a 0,35 mm needle for the Infinity or H&S Ultra.
I have another two long out of production Rotring Airbrushes with 0,2 mm and 0,4 mm needles and am asking myself, why I haven't use the 0,2 mm version for the preshading, because the Rotring's being one and a half action, are better suited for spraying fine lines with equal width.

When you think about fine needles, you should take into account, that they clog more frequent with pigmented colours. Sometime it's better to adjust air pressure and/or grade of thinning.

Cheers Rob

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Thank you Rob, that's really helpful info.  Appreciate it!  The Iwata Eclipse in my limited experience is a great all-purpose airbrush, but I picked up a GSI-Creos PS-290 a couple of months ago (0.5mm needle) which is great for spraying larger areas.  Looking at your excellent pre-shading efforts, as well as some of the more complicated camo schemes, I'm starting to think I might benefit from a smaller airbrush for more detailed work.

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Rob, despite the setbacks, the fuselage looks quite nice.  I too used them clay washes over oils once.  Ruined a perfectly good Hasegawa Macchi MC-205. 

 

...and I haven't used those clay washes since.

 

5-shots of rum in quick succession will fix any remaining agitation or jitters.  I Gar-ron-tee it.

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11 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Thank you Rob, that's really helpful info.  Appreciate it!  The Iwata Eclipse in my limited experience is a great all-purpose airbrush, but I picked up a GSI-Creos PS-290 a couple of months ago (0.5mm needle) which is great for spraying larger areas.  Looking at your excellent pre-shading efforts, as well as some of the more complicated camo schemes, I'm starting to think I might benefit from a smaller airbrush for more detailed work

Honestly, I'm not very good at airbrushing freehanded. When I see the great work of others with the airbrush I have to raise my hat. I think the preshading on the Kamel's wings could have been made with a 0,35 mm needle too, it's a simple task. With a larger needle you have to work a little closer to the object with the AB. 

Cheers Rob

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