Zoukei-Mura P51D Mustang SWS No 4.

[BlrwestSiR]

Phil, you're using Tamiya X20A thinner which is for acrylic paint. You need their lacquer thinner. X20A has a white cap, the lacquer thinner has a yellow one. 

If you have access to Mr Color, any of these will work as well.

[DocRob]

20 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Thanks Chris, I use Vallejo predominantly but had a brain fade and bought nearly the whole range of Xtreme Metals. In retrospect I’d wish I’d bought the Vallejo Metal Colour instead. The base coat is stuck on like glue now so I’m not even oven cleaner will fetch it off. The scheme I’ve decided on is an OD upper which I have some Xtracolour in OD and their faded OD. U/S I could try another Xtreme Metal ………

Don´t throw them away Phil. I like the Xtreme Metals a lot, most of them spray very well and are more robust than Alclad. My only issues were with Titanium, which didn´t adhere very good. Alclad chrome looks a bit better than Extreme Metallics chrome, which I tested a lot with my Renault RE20 build. 

I recently sprayed a NMF 1/48 Lightning with Alclad´s polished Aluminum, which also is a bit better then Extreme Metals, BUT, I only used the Alclad, because I deliberately chose a paint scheme, which omitted masking after the NMF. In the WIP, I described my testing and base coating with Tamiya LP gloss black and the application of polished aluminum. Like Peter suggested, I keep the air pressure relatively low and if you go for a high shine finish, very fine layered application is the way to go. You have to reach the point, where the blackness of the base barely disappears. Flooding is no option for high shine finishes, no matter if it´s Xtreme Metal or Alclad.

The only real letdown with Extreme Metals from AK is the black base, which can ruin a model completely. I threw my bottles away and will never use them again. 

Cheers Rob

[Peterpools]

Chris

My go to paint removal tool: Mr Hobby Self Leveling Thinner - works 100% of the time on any model paint and primer. Mr Color Rapid Thinner from what I've read and watched online is a bit too aggressive and can attack the plastic. Believe me, over the years I've stripped more models down to bare plastic then I care to remember.  When I'm done, I just wipe the model down with a wet paper towel or even dampened with isopropyl alcohol; done and finished. 

BTW, wear a respirator, safest way to go - years past I didn't and now a cancer survivor, I would never handle thinners without protection.  

[Bomber_County]

20 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Phil, you're using Tamiya X20A thinner which is for acrylic paint. You need their lacquer thinner. X20A has a white cap, the lacquer thinner has a yellow one. 

If you have access to Mr Color, any of these will work as well.

Thanks Carl , I used the white cap 🙄I don’t possess any of the others unfortunately, a real dilemma which way to go now, 

[Bomber_County]

2 hours ago, DocRob said:

Don´t throw them away Phil. I like the Xtreme Metals a lot, most of them spray very well and are more robust than Alclad. My only issues were with Titanium, which didn´t adhere very good. Alclad chrome looks a bit better than Extreme Metallics chrome, which I tested a lot with my Renault RE20 build. 

I recently sprayed a NMF 1/48 Lightning with Alclad´s polished Aluminum, which also is a bit better then Extreme Metals, BUT, I only used the Alclad, because I deliberately chose a paint scheme, which omitted masking after the NMF. In the WIP, I described my testing and base coating with Tamiya LP gloss black and the application of polished aluminum. Like Peter suggested, I keep the air pressure relatively low and if you go for a high shine finish, very fine layered application is the way to go. You have to reach the point, where the blackness of the base barely disappears. Flooding is no option for high shine finishes, no matter if it´s Xtreme Metal or Alclad.

The only real letdown with Extreme Metals from AK is the black base, which can ruin a model completely. I threw my bottles away and will never use them again. 

Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob, the black base has been regulated to the garage. I may just have another go at the Xtreme metals because it’s basically just the U/S now…..if it goes horribly wrong the oven cleaner is coming out……….

[Bomber_County]

1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Chris

My go to paint removal tool: Mr Hobby Self Leveling Thinner - works 100% of the time on any model paint and primer. Mr Color Rapid Thinner from what I've read and watched online is a bit too aggressive and can attack the plastic. Believe me, over the years I've stripped more models down to bare plastic then I care to remember.  When I'm done, I just wipe the model down with a wet paper towel or even dampened with isopropyl alcohol; done and finished. 

BTW, wear a respirator, safest way to go - years past I didn't and now a cancer survivor, I would never handle thinners without protection.  

Thanks Peter and good advise. I think we have all been a little neglectful in the past. …..

[CANicoll]

Agreed with Peter completely.  For years I didn't use any masks, now I have a full respirator and wear it religiously.  I don't have a huge supply of the Mr. Hobby Self Leveling thinner so I opt for the other stuff.

Good luck with the paint removal!

[PanzerWomble]

On 12/24/2023 at 1:56 PM, Bomber_County said:

Thanks Peter and good advise. I think we have all been a little neglectful in the past. …..

If you can get good old fashioned Detol -that is a safe non fume acrylic paint remover . Just coat and leave in a plastic bag for 24 hours. The smell afterward is slightly odd , but goes once you re prime . 

[Peterpools]

PW

Need to check it out but even it doesn't have a odor, doesn't mean it isn't harmful These days (wish I started wearing a respirator when I was in my twenties) I don't take any chances, especially being a cancer survivor.

I know I've said this before, but all the glues we use and they are solvents have to be as toxic as solvent based paints, I don't know of anyone who wears a respirator or mask when gluing, including me. 

.

 

[PanzerWomble]

22 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

PW

Need to check it out but even it doesn't have a odor, doesn't mean it isn't harmful These days (wish I started wearing a respirator when I was in my twenties) I don't take any chances, especially being a cancer survivor.

I know I've said this before, but all the glues we use and they are solvents have to be as toxic as solvent based paints, I don't know of anyone who wears a respirator or mask when gluing, including me. 

.

 

Pete - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dettol

Dettol is a general purpose antisceptic . If the MDA approve it for bathing in and dressing wounds I think we can assume it's non toxic. Sadly you septics don't get it in your market . 🤣

 

FYI it has a very distinctive smell , any child of the 1970's will recognise. 

[Peterpools]

PW

Very much appreciate the information - I had no idea and being and antiseptic, it has to be safe.

 

 

[CANicoll]

4 hours ago, Peterpools said:

PW

Need to check it out but even it doesn't have a odor, doesn't mean it isn't harmful These days (wish I started wearing a respirator when I was in my twenties) I don't take any chances, especially being a cancer survivor.

I know I've said this before, but all the glues we use and they are solvents have to be as toxic as solvent based paints, I don't know of anyone who wears a respirator or mask when gluing, including me. 

.

 

I never even thought of wearing it when I'm gluing...  Uh oh.  Especially Tamiya Extra Thin, but all of the CA's as well...

[GusMac]

4 hours ago, PanzerWomble said:

Pete - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dettol

Dettol is a general purpose antisceptic . If the MDA approve it for bathing in and dressing wounds I think we can assume it's non toxic. Sadly you septics don't get it in your market . 🤣

 

FYI it has a very distinctive smell , any child of the 1970's will recognise. 

Dettol, Germolene and Ralgex, the smells of my childhood! 

[Bomber_County]

The scheme I’ve decided to do is OD top surfaces and minimal amount of NMF. After deciding not to strip but just flatten and rub down, I started on the invasion strips using Tamiya acrylic, next I’ll redo the NMF using any acrylic silver……..after that the OD maybe Xtracolour faded OD but have to wait so I can properly vent…….

[CANicoll]

[Bomber_County]

1 hour ago, CANicoll said:

I started this in Nov 2020, it’s time I finished this one………..

[BlrwestSiR]

2 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

I started this in Nov 2020, it’s time I finished this one………..

Don't worry about how it takes. I started a Tamiya McLaren back in 1993 and still haven't finished it. 

[HubertB]

9 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Don't worry about how it takes. I started a Tamiya McLaren back in 1993 and still haven't finished it. 

I am sooooo much better than you, Carl. I started my scratchbuilt Aichi Hansa only in 2008 … It had time to see the WnW Hansa-Brandenburg W29 come and go …

Thank you for lifting my spirits and alleviating my guilt, my friend 👍 🤣

Hubert

[Peterpools]

19 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

The scheme I’ve decided to do is OD top surfaces and minimal amount of NMF. After deciding not to strip but just flatten and rub down, I started on the invasion strips using Tamiya acrylic, next I’ll redo the NMF using any acrylic silver……..after that the OD maybe Xtracolour faded OD but have to wait so I can properly vent…….

Phil

Looks great and so glad the ZM Mustang is back on the bench and underway agai, Your choice for the paint scheme sounds awesome.  

[Bomber_County]

23 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Phil

Looks great and so glad the ZM Mustang is back on the bench and underway agai, Your choice for the paint scheme sounds awesome.  

Thanks Peter, this time I’m going to finish it……

[Bomber_County]

I used Vallejo Aluminium Model Air thinned down and at last happy with the NFM areas. Time for the OD plus carefully removing the part line on the canopy, luckily finally got hold of some Tamiya polishing paste….

[Peterpools]

Phil

Looks great and will have to give the Vallejo NMF's a a shot.

 

[Clunkmeister]

That’s looking amazing, Phil.  Dang!   Just wow, man!   

[Bomber_County]

On 1/31/2024 at 1:47 PM, Peterpools said:

Phil

Looks great and will have to give the Vallejo NMF's a a shot.

 

The one I used was the ordinaryVallejo Air Aluminium not even their Metal range. If they are this good I’m in, I’ll try and get some pics for you……

[CANicoll]

Phil,

I think their Metal Range is terrific.  VERY easy to apply, not a lacquer, and over a nice primer base the paint is very sturdy.  Good luck!

Chris