James H

Ok, I've mailed Jirí at Fly

Fly are an SP&R sponsor, but not had anything for a long while. I'll contact and see if we can, er, help with this one

Nano Saws RB Productions Catalogue # RB-T038 Available from RB Productions for €6.50 If you haven't yet seen the light and tried out some of RB Productions rather excellent photo etch saws, then here comes another release of those sets you will end up filing under "how did I cope without that?" RB Productions have released a saw for almost every season, with bucksaws and micro saws, but for those of you who want fine saws for the most delicate of applications, then this miniature, yet mega pack of no less than SIX separate, different shaped 'nano saws', should be on your shopping list. All you'll need is an X-Acto style handle to mount them in. Let's take a look at what this pack offers. Packaged into the familiar small zip-lock bag with a card stiffener, this set contains a small fret of stainless steel containing those six very sharp saws in different formats, held in situ with a small number of very small tags. As this is stainless, you will still need a fresh, sharp blade to remove them from the fret. You might also require a small jeweler's file to remove any sharp protrusions from the tags. Please be careful, these tools do have a very sharp cutting edge. Whilst all the saws are different shapes, they do fall into 3 categories, and are listed on the instructions as so: 2 x curved saws: these can be run along a rule (as per instruction photo). Two sizes are included – the narrower blade can be used to follow curved edges 3 x tapered saws: these can be used to make piercing cuts – drill a suitable hole first and use it as a starting point for the cut 1 x straight saw: this saw can be used to make long, straight cuts All saws are indeed very fine, with a high number of teeth per inch, and as previously mentioned, very sharp too. Just because these are photo etch doesn't mean they are inferior to other saws. I've been using RB Productions saws since they were first released, and they are a staple of my workbench now. You will need to avail yourself of an X-Acto, or similar fitting Swann Morton handle, also available from RB Productions, in order to mount these blades. I usually buy a few at a time so that my favourite saws are always at hand, without having to change the previous saw/rivet tool etc. So what do we think? For the detail modeller with his/her collection of aftermarket resin sets, then these saws are a godsend, especially with the increasing number of small components we regularly find in these detail sets. These are extremely affordable, working out at only just over a Euro each, so you really have no excuse but to try them out and look at RB Productions back catalogue of saw and tool sets. Very highly recommended Our thanks to RB Productions for the review sample used here. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

1:32 Fokker D.VII Radiators RB Productions Catalogue RB-P32031 Available from RB Productions for €6.00 Only an item or so of aftermarket has surfaced for the excellent range of Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII kits (F, OAW, Alb & Fok) so far. HGW have released a set of D.VII specific seatbelts, and will no doubt have a number of other sets on the market before too long. RB Productions have now released a simple upgrade set which is designed to improve the incorrect mesh pattern of the kit radiator parts with a more accurate and sharp honeycomb design. RB Productions PE Fret Close-up of honeycomb texture on RB Productions parts This simple set comes in a small zip-lock wallet, containing a single stainless steel etch fret with SIX parts, and a small instruction sheet. A piece of black stiffening card is inserted which will give this thin fret a degree of protection against the worst that Royal Mail can throw against it. Working out how to install these is a breeze. Each photo-etch piece has a part number which directly relates to the actual kit number part. As the radiator has an internal mesh as well as the front external one, both are supplied for each of the three radiator types. Each photo etch piece is connected to the fret by means of a small, tapered tag which will require a fresh, sharp blade to sever. As these parts will need to be folded, an etch guide line is given on the rear of each part, making this job a worry-free one. If you haven't availed yourself of RB Productions superb Flip-R5, then this is the perfect opportunity to buy a tool which makes consistently sharp folds. Wingnut Wings part Close-up of incorrect 'cross-coss' pattern on WNW part. The instructions suggest that you try to get the angles of the folded parts as close to that of the parts so that little to no tension will exist in the folded metal, allowing it to sit effortlessly to the plastic part. It is also suggested that either Johnson's Klear, or PVA is used as adhesive. These allow parts to be moved and aligned, unlike most CA, which RB Productions does not recommend. I use Klear for the majority of my photo etch, where I am fixing flat plate PE to a plastic face. It works exceptionally well. You'll see from my photographs above just how different the mesh on these parts are, in comparison to the kit parts. So what do we think? A single fret contains enough parts to build THREE Fokker D.VII's, depending on which schemes you want to build. So, play your cards right, and if you are a D.VII junkie like me, then you'll be able to utilize all the parts here for 3 different projects, at only 2€ per model! This upgrade will really set off an already excellent kit, and for accuracy junkies, it is a real 'must have' item. Very highly recommended. My sincere thanks to RB Productions for the review sample used here. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

1:32 Bristol M1.C Alley Cat Catalogue # ACRK32-10 Available from A2Zee Models for £59.00 The Bristol M1.C Scout was developed as a private venture due to the establishment's deep-seated mistrust of monoplane aircraft. The Fokker Scourge of 1915 must've been easily forgotten in that respect. The performance of the 110hp Clerget powered M1 Scout was also proven during its maiden flight in 1916, and in subsequent test flying. Despite the very promising performance exhibited during flight trials, a number of problems were encountered. A lack of good downward vision due to the wing arrangement, proved a hindrance, and also a lack of good forward vision. Whilst the latter problem was one that couldn't readily be fixed, the wings were redesigned with open panels at the root to allow downward vision. Another more fatal flaw which hindered serious mass production of the M1 was its high landing speed, thought to be unsuitable for forward airstrips in Western Europe. The final production run of the M1, including the main M1.C variant, was only 130 aircraft, mostly operated by training units, or in the Middle East. Armed versions carried a single .303 Vickers MG. Being a recent convert to WW1 modelling, the models I've reviewed or built have fallen into either the angular or graceful category. Perhaps a combination of the two. The Bristol M1.C is an oddity. Whilst not angular, it certainly doesn't look too graceful, despite the very bird-like wings and tapered, streamlined fuselage. The almost bull-nosed spinner, while aiding that streamlining, does look rather awkward. Still, what a hugely unusual subject for a resin model kit, and certainly one which I look forward to building soon after this review. Let's look further into this release. Alley Cat's Bristol M1.C is packaged in a very sturdy top opening corrugated box, adorned with a lid label depicting one of the SEVEN schemes applicable for this release. Inside the box there are three bags of resin components, and one which contains various rods, wire, photo etch fret, and a cast white metal undercarriage and tail skid. Whilst the majority of the smaller parts, including the cockpit walls, engine and internals are packaged loose into one bag, the hefty single piece fuselage and wings are supplied in a single bag, strategically stapled to stop the fuselage from rolling around with the wings. The tail plane parts, ailerons, cowl and spinner etc are packaged into the last rest zip-lock bag. In the bottom of the box lie 3 instruction sheets and a single sheet of decals. The model kit itself comprises of SEVENTY-THREE parts, superbly cast in light grey resin; a single clear resin part for the M1.C's windshield, and the white metal undercarriage is supplemented by a brass rod for the axle. As resin models tend to be heavier than injection plastic ones, the all metal undercarriage is a well thought out and welcome addition. A number of resin parts are supplied as options in this kit; both as simple choices, but also for the sake of the different machine configurations which the schemes depict. Two seat options are included. One of these has a set of cast lap belts which look excellent by any standard. The other seat is bare, allowing the modeller to choose his/her own belt solution. As the M1.C can be built as an unarmed trainer, as well as an armed fighting scout, two coamings are included for the upper, forward fuselage. This thoughtful addition means that you don't have to start cutting out and modifying a stock piece in order to fit the Vickers MG. The trainer version also has the optional clear resin windscreen, whilst the Vickers MG consists of a finely detailed main gun part with open muzzle, an ammunition feed and cartridge chute part, and a padded face guard to the rear. The most obvious part when you open the box is that single piece, streamlined, tubular fuselage. This really is a wonderful piece of casting, with hardly a blemish anywhere. A few tiny bubbles reside on the underside of the front section, but they certainly aren't anything to worry about whatsoever. This relatively heavy resin part is supplied with the forward upper cockpit section faired over with a web of resin that needs to be removed. Internally, the side walls of the tube cleanly depict the fabric and frame construction of the real thing, with a recessed slot into which to insert the completed cockpit assembly. Externally, the fuselage detail is superbly rendered, with an accurate depiction of taught, doped linen shrunken over the wooden framework, subtle laced areas, neatly scribed access plates, and very fine rigging attachment points. The tail plane is attached to the fuselage by means of pips which neatly allow a trouble free fitting. This is proven by dry fitting these assemblies. The Clerget engine is supplied as a centre crankcase with nine separate cylinders, supplied over 2 casting blocks, with a spare cylinder as default. There is a slight seam on some cylinders, but again, nothing to be concerned about, and the rocker head detail is very good, with clean connection points for the induction pipes, also supplied as separate parts, with spares too. Refreshingly, the styrene rod required for the pushrods is also included. So many resin kits require you supply your own rod etc, assuming you already have a stash of it. Of course, all this beautiful resin engine will be mostly concealed within the large cowl, and shrouded by the trademark spinner of the 'Bullet'. The cowl comes attached to a shallow casting block that sits neatly within the front of the fuselage. Just check this for fouling the internal cockpit tub. Even though the block is designed to be removed, if you can come to a compromise against the internal tub, then the casting block is a great alignment tool. The prop and spinner and cast as a single part, with the internal prop hub being separate, and connected to the internal spinner portion of the prop. This aligns simply in between pips within the spinner. The cockpit tub itself is superb, and has plenty enough detail to keep the best of us happy. Comprising of the single piece resin side frame, cockpit floor, and a number of cross brace parts, the finished 'box' assembly slips into those recesses within the fuselage tube. Cockpit internals consist of a control stick with integral torsion tube, rudder foot bar, fuel tank and a side console instrument panel. Whilst the instrument locations are excellent, no decals are supplied to detail this area. For a perfect solution, take a look at the WW1 instrument sheets available from Airscale. This is what I will be using for this build. All the interior requires to finish it off is perhaps a little plumbing. This area is a small project within the kit itself, and as there is no upper wing to hide the cockpit opening, make sure you do a good job here! The shoulder mounted wings are cast as single pieces, with just the ailerons needing to be added. A little clean-up will be required in the downward view apertures, and also the pouring stubs need to be removed from the aileron area. This is places here so as not to foul any exterior detail on the wing. Two pips are cast at the fuselage juncture, in order to facilitate perfect mating and location. Wing surface detail is excellent with more subtle rib and leading edge strip detail, as well as a number of small access ports (aileron pulley access). The rigging points are cast as small hollows into which a rigging cap is inserted over a photo etch plate. Full instructions are given for rigging and with there not being too much work involved, it all seems quite easy. Of course, there are also the control surface photo etch horns which will require a cable adding to the various location points on the fuselage and wing etc. The upper wing rigging lines are tethered to a cabane strut pylon which sits atop the gun platform. The instructions say you must drill a hole in the upper pylon so that the wires may be joined. I would need to check my sources, but presume you may need some sort of sleeving or turnbuckle arrangement for this The horizontal tail plane and elevators are cast as four separate parts. The detail across them is again superbly rendered, and I would look at using some wire to pin the various control surfaces to the airframe, instead of relying on a simple butt-joint. This applies to the rudder and vertical tail plane too. The trainer version windscreen is cast onto a small block which should be easy to remove. Clarity of the part is excellent, but as is normal for me, a quick dip into Klear should improve this even further. Generally speaking, the overall quality of the resin is excellent. There are a few pin-hole bubbles which will require a small drill bit to open and then be filled, but on the whole, this is probably one of the best cast resin kits I've seen in a long while, and those miniscule imperfections won't take long to eradicate. A number of structural elements for the interior, such as spacer beams and side walls, as cast flat onto a casting block 'bed'. There is a resin dead-space below this meaning that a few minutes careful cutting with a razor saw will be enough to free these ready for clean-up. With the exception of the fuselage, whose casting core is deep within the tube itself, the remainer of the parts are secured to either casting blocks, or will simply require casting tabs removing. In all, there's nothing here which looks tricky at all. A single etch metal fret contains the control surface horns, complete with their cable attachment holes, and also the rigging point stiffening plates. The white metal undercarriage parts are cleanly cast with as good a surface as you should expect to find, and very little clean-up will be required. The triple axel is supplied as brass lengths, and are easy to insert into the pre-cast strut holes. Alley Cat produce some superbly illustrated instructions, and this kit is no exception. The Bristol M1.C is quite a straightforward model to build and a single sheet shows all aspects of construction as exploded line drawings, with clear annotation. Rigging is shown, as are smaller exploded drawings of the engine and cockpit assemblies. A double sided, colour printed sheet illustrates the SEVEN schemes which are provided. These vary from simple PC12 schemes to some quite startling schemes which were applied to personal mounts/trainers. The schemes included are: Bristol M1.C, No.72 Squadron Bristol M1.C, C4921, No.150 Squadron, Salonika, 1918 Bristol M1.C, C4907, flown by Lt. Hamilton, No.150 Squadron, Amberkoj, Macedonia Bristol M1.C, C4960, No.1 School of Aerial Fighting, Ayr, April 1918 Bristol M1.C, C5019, unarmed trainer. Bristol M1.C, C5001/83, No.4 Auxiliary School of Aerial Gunnery, Waddon, July 1919 Bristol M1.C, C4940, Turnberry A single decal sheet is included which carries both national and serial markings for each aircraft, plus the occasional motif. The decals are nice and thin and carrier film is minimal. Whilst everything is in perfect register, the blue colour doesn't seem as solid as it should be. This not be the case when applied, but I think for my build, I will be using masks for painting all markings. Some spare decal section colours are provided just in case you have a mishap. Roundels are printed with separate red centre spots. So what do we think? In all, this is a great kit, and one which doesn't cost the earth either. The fine mastering and excellent engineering of the pattern maker is evident throughout the kit, and Alley Cat's casting quality is every bit as good as we have come to expect from them. The Bristol M1.C is a fairly simple model to build, and would be an excellent introduction for an experienced modeller to chance their hand at their first all-resin kit. For an experienced resin modeller, then the sky really is the limit with this unusual and strangely attractive machine. I just hope we see more like this from Alley Cat. Very highly recommended. Our sincere thanks to A2Zee Models for the review sample. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

What a great looking pit. I swear you're only doing this as it has a passing '109' resemblance

Seriously Iain, this is the most ambitious fix I've seen, and one that teaches a lot of lessons that are well worth reading through. I've loved (mostly) how this topic moved forward on LSP. I hope you'll manage to draw this to completion with less hassle on both LSM/LSP. Absolutely sterling work so far.

Thanks for sharing Iain. The SEAC schemes are real nice, and even more so when applied to a monster like the Jug. Do you have any in-progress shots?

I agree. We need to calm down the rhetoric here. LSM will not become a copy of the sites I tend to avoid. Steve (Wumm) is indeed a helpful guy, and hopefully he'll see fit to contribute further here, but let's all take this for what it is, and not tear chunks out of each other. Iain is also a darn fine modeller and a very level-headed and reasonable guy. I respect him dearly. You all need to go sniff some tenax fumes....

Seriously impressive Jeff. Do you have any engine and internal images?

Some great tips here. I keep looking at the Hisso in my stash <sigh> Great work Jeroen. I'm interested to know your scheme too.

Dave's entire modelling budget is going on paint this year.....B-17, He 219, Catalina

1:32 Fokker D.VII Parts 1 &2 Lifelike Decals Catalogue #’s: 32-016 & 32-017 respectively Available from Lifelike Decals for 1,600Y each Lifelike Decals produce some very nice schemes on their sheets, and their Japanese printed decals are certainly more or less on a par with some of the better decal sets that we see from Europe. Up until now, my experience of their decals for World War 1 aviation, has been limited to 1:48 scale. When I received my latest package from Lifelike Decals last night and opened it up, I was more than a little surprised to see that they have now expanded into 1:32 Great War aviation. Am I pleased? With a small stash of Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII’s in my stash, you bet I am! So, not one release, but two consecutive releases. We certainly have some colourful profiles here, so let’s take a closer look. The new Lifelike Decals sets are each packaged into a zip-lock wallet, with two folded, colour printed sheets within; one of them forming the front product sheet, each containing a smaller profile of the FOUR schemes that each set contains. http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u614/LargeScaleModeller/LSMReviews/Image3.jpg Within the wallet, the main cover sheet contains the upper and lower plans of each machine, with clear notation as to where each decal is placed. Decal placement also includes those from the kit, and where this is the case, a different coloured number system is employed. The colours used relate to specific Wingnut Wings releases, whether they are the OAW, Fok, Alb or D.VII F kits. Notes are also included as to the use of lozenge fabric, and the producer has also supplied their reference material listing too. The second sheet contains larger profiles of each machine, again with clear decal placement illustration, and also a concise description of each machine offered, including some both interesting and fascinating facts about the pilot and scheme illustrated. One thing which immediately strikes me is the omission of any paint reference codes, which is quite odd for bright schemes such as these. As some paint colours will need to mirror some decal colours, you will need to play with paint mixing. This isn’t the case for all schemes, but is for some. Both sets contain THREE decal sheets of various sizes. Generally, you will need to use these in combination with some kit markings, but where those won’t suffice, due to national marking variation, these replacement markings are included here. The majority of these schemes are very colourful, containing various bands, stripes, trims and wrapped-around blocks of colour. Where this occurs, we have mostly been supplied with these sections in decal format. One machine, for example, has a green and white striped tailplane. You paint the white, and overlay the green decal stripes on top of this. Where blocks of colour aren’t supplied is where it should be painted anyway, such as the black block colour on the Jasta 30 machine. You will also need to use, for some machines, some of the lozenge decal supplied with the kit. Essentially, the way Lifelike Decals has worked here is no dissimilar to how WNW have produced the regular kit decals. Same rules. The decals are printed in Italy, by Cartograf, and in Japan, by Microscale. Although Japanese decals have a reputation for being thicker than their European equivalents, these seem to be admirably thin, and contain only the bare minimum of carrier film. Printing is in perfect register, with good solid colour and pin sharp edges. I have used Microscale decals previously, and found them to bed quite well into the surface detail. I also found them to work exceptionally well with Mr Mark Setter too, but please try a spare decal before you attempt anything here, as of course, specifications can, and indeed do change. Cartograf decals are as you imagine they will be; thin, in perfect register, and with excellent colour solidity. The schemes supplied here are: Part 1 Fokker D.VII (early Fokker-built), unknown pilot, Jasta 16b, St. Marguerite airfield, June/July 1918 Fokker D.VII F, 4253/18, Jasta 4, Oblt. Ernst Udet, Montigny Ferme & Metz airfields, August to September 1918 Fokker D.VII (Alb), s/n unknown, Jasta 23b, Lt. Josef Muller, Epinoy airfield, July/August 1918 Fokker D.VII (Alb), s/n unknown, Jasta 18, Lt. Hans Muller, Montigny airfield, Summer 1918 Part 2 Fokker D.VII (Fok) 258/18, Jasta 10, Lt. Friedrich ‘Fritz’ Friedrichs, either Cappy, Etreux or Pusieux Ferme aerodromes, May to June 1918 Fokker D.VII (Alb), s/n unknown, Jasta 30, pilot unknown, Phalempin airfield, Summer 1918 Fokker D.VII (OAW), s/n unknown, Jasta 54s, Lt. Walter Vogt, Summer 1918 Fokker D.VII (Alb), s/n unknown, Jasta 5, Lt. Friedrich Vollbracht, Villers-sire-Nicole airfield, October 1918 Conclusion I think Lifelike Decals made a faux pas with the inclusion of the Udet scheme. This is already supplied with the new Fokker D.VII F kit, and the kit decals also supply the ‘Du Doch Nicht!!’ tailplane decals, whereas this set doesn’t. I would have liked to have seen Lifelike tackle that candy-striped machine specifically, whereas WNW didn’t. The other schemes though as superb in both variety, oddball factor and sheer beauty. Each one begs to be built, so I expect yet more orders to WNW for more D.VII kits. The only real criticism I have is the lack of paint code reference, meaning you will have to mix paint to suit some decals, or simply paint the various markings, forget those decals, and just use the motifs instead. I know WW1 colours are contentious, but colour matching is another science. WNW did this with the inclusion of the Rudolf Stark scheme, supplying us with paint refs and mix quantities. Still, these are great sets, and I aim to do at least two of these in the next twelve months. Highly recommended Our sincere thanks to Lifelike Decals for providing the review samples used here. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

JEEEEZ!! It looks like Dave's crown of 'biggest model' (HK B-17) is now lost! What a great project, with some of the best scratch build work I've seen. Thank you VERY much for sharing this with us. Really can't wait to see this progress. What are you going to use for the undercarriage?

Hi Johan, Your Photobucket link was the direct link. You needed the link with the tags in it. I've edited your signature and corrected it

Dear Mary, mother of God! That is absolutely amazing! Damn all these builders who force me to up my game

I've had a sneaky peek at the tail surfaces via a discreet iPhone pic from Jeroen, and they look superb. I'm loving this build.

That looks great Jeff. How did you find the build?

Another large Large Scale Model Really looking forward to this one. That is one box choc-full of plastic.

You are sick puppies....very sick. I'm calling a vet.

Simply astounding. I'm drinking a cool Champagne as I read this (break from Cava), and thinking I need to spend some man time with you in your model room.

Jeroen is so talented, and we all love him. He's our face-fuzzed hairy mascot.

Hi Dave, Just copy and paste the IMG code line into your post, like this: [IMG]http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y408/binklebaum/RE8_zpsb7fe3159.jpg[/IMG] By the way, welcome to LSM! I hope you'll join out Great War Group Build: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/forum/111-the-great-war-group-build/

Hi Kai, Welcome to LSM. Great work on the bust, but I do have to remind you that LSM is an aircraft and armour/afv only forum What's up next?

Done!