JayDee

Those decal schemes look great. Are there a full set of stencils in there too?

This is just amazing. Loving those seats and that nose interior.

If you are on Windows, press CTRL and PRTSCRN, then go to Paint, and Press CTRL and V. This will copy the image from screen, right into your clipboard for saving. If you are on Mac OSX, you can press the SHIFT, CMD and key 3 for a full screen cap, or SHIFT, CMD and key 4 for a selectable capture area.

Sweet! I'd forgotten about this one. We should aim to have every WNW kit built up here on LSM.

1:32 Supermarine Walrus Mk.I HPH Catalogue # Available from HPH for 170€ The Supermarine Walrus, or 'Shagbat', as it became more affectionately known, was designed by Reginald Mitchell, the very same man who designed the infinitely beautiful Spitfire fighter. Designed to satisfy an RAAF request for a reconnaissance/patrol aircraft to operate from cruisers, and was designed to be launched by catapult. The Walrus was an amphibious aircraft, so as well as being catapult launched and winch retrieved, it could also operate from land. Powered by a single Pegasus VI radial engine, swinging a 4 blade propeller in a pusher configuration, the quite agile Walrus carried 2 Vickers MG guns in gunner openings both fore and aft of the cockpit. The Walrus could also carry bombs and depth charges. First becoming operational in 1935, the Walrus was operated by a number of Commonwealth countries as well as Egypt, France, the Soviet Union, and Turkey, and for the UK, primarily with the Fleet Air Arm. The type finally left service in the late 1950's when Argentina retired the handful that they operated. Think of Supermarine, and the image of the iconic Spitfire might come to mind. Yet again, you may well think of those amazing Schneider Trophy winning seaplanes, whose design paved the way to our most prestigious fighter plans design. For me, however, it is the Walrus that is the design which sticks in the forefront of my mind. I was captivated by this aircraft after building the 1:72 Matchbox kit when I was a kid. We recently took a look at perhaps the most major of resin kit designs recently, the HPH 1:32 PBY-5A Catalina, and this sparked an intrigue in me to look at the earlier Walrus kit release. Thankfully HPH delivered this to us in a very reasonable timeframe, in order that we could evaluate this smaller, but for me, far more beautiful flying boat. HPH's Supermarine Walrus is packed into a very sturdy top opening box, with superb colour artwork on the lid which depicts the TWO schemes available within this release. The inner box itself is neatly compartmented with the resin parts packed into various zip-lock bags, and further protected by layers of bubble wrap. The large fuselage halves and wing sections were wrapped in generous lays of bubble wrap too. On top of the various parts, a large ziplock wallet contains a CD with digital instructions, HGW textile seatbelt set, photo etch frets (including colour PE), canopy masks and a decal sheet. HPH have managed to finely cast the fuselage as halves, in their full length, minus the vertical fin which is left off in order for the model to first accommodate its stabilizer. The fuselage halves appear to be very delicate due to how thin they are. But of course, this thinness is necessary to produce a scale interior, which this model indeed has. And I mean a FULL interior! Externally, the Walrus depicts superbly mastered detail, such as delicate rivets and reinforcing doublers. Resin webs and structures are cast over areas which need to be removed, such as the gunner positions, cockpit, hull windows and various other portals. Internally, you will be amazed at the detail cast within. As this model contains a full interior, all the constructional elements within are included. The fuselage has the various longerons and minor vertical structures in situ, and there are a lot of them. The internal frames, however, are separate entities which need to be inserted within the recesses cut within the stringers and longerons. The manual shows these in detail, and where exactly every one of them needs to be inserted. I imagine this will aid the rigidity of the fuselage somewhat. A little of the stringer detail on my sample, is broken away, but this falls squarely in an area which will be covered by the duckboards flooring, so I'm not at all concerned by this. Points exist within the fuselage, into which you attach resin pins. This is to help align the fuselage halves when you glue them together. They act in the same way as the locating pins on an injection moulded kit. No casting blocks as such exist on these parts, and all you'll need to do to prepare them for assembly is to remove the aforementioned webs and a little flash which exists around the edges. On my sample, a little micromesh will be needed to buff out a mark on the external port side. The wings are simply a fantastic exercise in mastering and casting, with the lower wings having integral wheel well bays into which the externally hull-based undercarriage would swing into. Excellent fabric and rib detail is present throughout, with the fabric having just that right amount of pleasing 'sag'. There are also recesses in the lower wing into which bomb both resin and PE mounting racks and brackets can be fitted, although looking at the reference which comes with the kit, the main bomb racks are perhaps an optional feature as the recesses in the wings are the same as the photos of the Walrus which are supplied. The ailerons are cast separately too, and do have scope for being positioned dynamically, if you so chose to. The leading edge of the wing panels have a casting block attached, and you'll need to carefully remove this, along with some resin webs on the wingtips. This is pretty common fayre for such parts, so take it easy in cleaning these up. The wing roots have indentations into which you should drill in order to mount the wings on the wire pins which are suggested for use. Another bag of large resin parts contains the outboard wingtip floats, cast in a single piece, as well as the engine 'pod'. Just a little clean up is required here, and as per the main airframe, beautifully detailed with restrained rivet detail. The engine itself is cast as a central crankcase, with separate cylinders. The cylinders themselves will be a little clean up in order to remove small amounts of resin debris which seems to have stuck to the parts. It's no major deal though. The manifolds will also need a little clean up, and our sample has a little rubber from the moulds which is attached. TWO propellers are included, which are fitted back to back. Just a little clean up, drilling, and the trailing edge thinned, should see these good to go. A resin jig is included which fits over the fuselage, and helps align the engine pot height and angle. HPH's solution for producing the vertical tail plans is to produce it in port and starboard halves. You can pin these together for rigidity, and of course, when you sit the fit parts in place, you will see no joint line whatsoever. Again, the elevators are cast separately, and the rib and fabric detail is excellent. The same is to be said for the rudder and vertical fin parts. Look at pinning these parts wherever you can, and perhaps fixing with slow setting CA gel. The internal formers, like many parts in this kit, are cast flat, onto thin sheets of resin. Julian Seddon is building one of these on Scale Modelling Now, and he gives an interesting note that you simply don't cut these from the sheet. Instead, you must sand the part from the rear until the sheet falls away. If you don't do this, the parts way well be too thick to insert into the slots within the fuselage. You may find it a little easier to slightly nick away the stringer within the fuselage in order to finally fit these, as the formers can be quite thin and flexible. A series of duckboards are flat-cast too, in a slightly darker resin. These are beautifully sharp and require minimal cleaning before use. Most of the actual hull floor will be obscured by these, with the exception of the cockpit and rear fuselage. Where the hull floor can be seen, keel strips mean you won't actually see any joint at all. This aircraft has many struts, whether to support the wing, tailplane, engine pod, or wingtip floats. All of these are cast onto sheets, and have a tough steel pin insert within. The same applies to the undercarriage legs and tail-wheel strut. These pins don't bend too easily, so you should have no problem with your model being properly supported. The majority of other parts which comprise the detailed interior are sheet cast too, and detail is excellent. The pilots seat comprises of a basic chair, into which padded cushions are installed, and the seat itself being connected to a tubular frame. The cockpit is dripping in detail, comprised of both photo etch parts, and resin. I really don't think any facet of detail has been left out here. The cockpit will be seen from the capacious glazed greenhouse canopy, and from there, you will see into the area to the rear of the pilot. This itself is adorned with seats, radio equipment etc. You will also see the cockpit through the forward gunner position, which is open through into the cockpit. A bare resin instrument panel plate is included, and onto this, you will attach the coloured photo etch parts. The radio equipment from the engineers area is pre-cast with detail, but you can also opt to grind this off and attach some colour PE instead. Granted, you won't see every angle of the internal detail, but you will see pretty much most if it, whether through the forward or rear gunner positions, or through the hull side wall glazing. Although I'm one modeller who 'builds for me', meaning 'I really don't care if the detail is seen, as long as I know it's there', in this case, you will see a LOT of it! Believe me, and this is probably the best interior that I have seen on any model, with perhaps the exception of the PBY Catalina. It really is difficult to describe the detail internally, so here are a few images for you.....just to give you an idea. The forward gunner position even has a winch and choice of two anchors! All grey resin parts are generally superbly cast. Being resin, there will always be a few parts which will need cleaning a little, and may need a little reworking in places. I think out of the whole kit, there are probably no more than a dozen parts which will require me to work a little at them. For a kit with this number of parts, that is perfectly acceptable to me. The exterior of the hull, as I said, will need a little micromesh in places, but nothing too major. Casting blocks are relatively few, and are mostly confined to the flying surfaces, with other parts being mostly sheet cast. There are a few pin size bubbles in some parts, but for me, these are mostly hidden by other detail etc. A small number of parts seemed to have a little debris in the castings, such as a few wooden splinters, and fine grit. Luckily, they are in places which won't be seen, and either way, this is quite easy to remove/hide. I have a slight issue with the clear parts in this kit, as there is a flaw across the main canopy. HPH has assured me that that will soon be here and I will then insert the image here. So what else is in this pack? Well, apart from a Belgian chocolate, which my wife appropriated, there is a set of HGW textile seatbelts, specifically designed for this release. The belts themselves are comprised of a microfibre material which you scrunch with the fingers, then straighten out. This helps give a realistic sag. You can also weather the belts with oils etc. All buckles are supplied in photo etch form. TWO photo etch frets are included, produced by Eduard. The colour fret not only contains the layered instrument panel, but also the radio equipment faces and cockpit placards, to name but a few parts. The larger fret carries parts for MG ammunition drums, such as the drum faces and handles. These are an option, as the detail is already cast, but I do prefer the PE alternative. Other parts on this fret include bomb racks and accessories, cockpit instrument detail, exterior detail such as window frames, brackets and plate detail, and also some canopy frame detail. If you like attaching PE, you won't be disappointed here. A set of masks, cut into vinyl sheet, is also included. There are quite a few panels to mask, so this is a welcome inclusion. HPH provide their instruction manual in digital format, on a CD. The disc contains the instructions in both Adobe Acrobat format, and in JPEG too. The instructions are scalable, and can be blown to full screen size easily, as well as being very high quality. The manual is 45 pages, with the first 34 pages being lent to the model kit itself, followed by a number of pages of colour images in a walkaround, and finishing with the two schemes being supplied in glorious, digital high resolution. An overview of kit parts starts the manual, with all constructional stages being illustrated by photographs. A good number of photos are annotated to include detail on pinning parts, applying PE etc. The seatbelts have their own drawings at the places where you will need to assemble and install them. My only criticism of the instructions is that some things are installed, such as equipment within the hull, and then it is suggested you fit other internal constructional hull detail. It is obvious that some things are better being installed before others, contrary to the plan. Remember to work ahead several stages. A full set of rigging drawings are included, but you will need to provide your own rigging material. The manual, as mentioned, contains many images of the Walrus, to help with your detail and painting work. Please also consider 'Supermarine Walrus & Stranraer', from Mushroom Model Publications, which has some excellent images of the interior to help you with this seriously impressive area of modeling. Paint call-outs are given throughout construction, but not with any specific manufacturer codes. You'll need to check that all important reference, both in your manual and in your own books. A single decal sheet is included. Decals are nice and thin, and have minimal carrier film. Colours look authentic, and everything is printed in perfect register. No stencils are included, but the footprint walkway marks are included, as are a number of walkway bars too. The two schemes included in this release are: Supermarine Walrus Mk.I, Royal Navy, HMS Sheffield, 1941 Supermarine Walrus Mk.I, Royal Navy, 1700 NAS, HMS Ameer, 1945 Conclusion Absolutely stunning. I love it! It's been 30 years since I had my last 'fix' of Walrus, and my passion for this aircraft hasn't diminished in that time. Not only is there now a 1:32 kit, but one with so much detail that I really feel very, very spoilt. Apart from a few faulty parts I snagged, which are now being replaced, there really isn't much to fault here. There are some constructional quirks which you'll need to check as you go, and in light of that, I have to say this is a kit which you really should NOT tackle as your first resin build. If you are used to resin ,then you'll have immense fun building a massively detailed model of one of the prettiest seaplanes ever to fly. Pricey? I think in comparison with other resin kits, this is well pitched. It's not a massive model, but it also is no shrinking violet. VERY highly recommended. Our sincere thanks to HPH for supplying this review kit. To purchase directly, click THIS link. James H

1:32 Me 163B interior and masks Eduard Catalogue # See article for code and price Available from Eduard Do you ever build a model as soon as it's released, and then just wish you'd waited a little while to see what aftermarket sets would be released. You knew there would be some, but impatience takes over. That's exactly how I felt when I recently built the Komet for Tamiya Model Magazine International (to be published March 2014), especially considering that the base kit lacks in detail in a good number of areas. Eduard to the rescue with these new sets that have been sent for review. The exterior set will follow in our next samples package. Now, I'm pleased I have another Komet in stash... The sets that Eduard have sent to us are: #32802, Me 163B interior, 22,95 € #33130, Me 163B interior ZOOM, 18,75 € #JX161, Me 163B masks, 9,95 € Essentially, the Zoom set is a cut down, and cut price version of the full detail set, but tackling on certain, key elements of the main set. We'll come to that in a moment. All of these sets are packaged into the standard Eduard re-sealable thin sleeve. #32802, Me 163B interior Meng's Komet cockpit is pretty deficient in many key areas of detail. There was simply no excuse in missing out the amount of key detail that can be seen in just about every photograph and drawing you see on Google. When I built mine, I had to address a number of basic omissions in the kit, but thankfully Eduard have tackled every single one of those, plus the things which I simply hadn't got the time or inclination to sort myself. The rear cockpit bulkhead is pretty bad in terms of accuracy or scale, and it will take a lot of determination to put this right without an aftermarket set. Thankfully, this set doesn't shy away from fixing this poor area of the kit. You'll need to do some major surgery to remove the moulded plastic structures first though. With the plastic gone, you can now install an entirely new seat framework, complete with the various fine girder sections and seat installation rails. Of course, a seat is also included, produced in two parts, and including a set of belts to replace the poor ones supplied in the kit. Bulkhead detail also includes the rather obvious control surface linkages that protrude from this area and into the wing roots. If you thought the bulkhead needed work, then the same can certainly be said of the cockpit floor and side consoles. An entire photo etch floor is supplied to fit over the plastic one which is pretty much devoid of detail. Another strange anomaly in the kit, but thankfully corrected here are the side console straps. The consoles were actually fuel tanks, and they they were secured with fabric straps; 2 vertically and 1 horizontally. Strangely enough, Meng didn't include the horizontal on in their moulded detail, so Eduard have included entirely new sets for here. You will of course have to remove the moulded detail for the ones they did include though. There is also extra detail to add to the console avionics units, by means of coloured photo etch, and other parts. This level of detail also spills onto the separate inner cockpit sidewalls whose detail is more or less replaced with PE alternative parts. Having built this kit, I can say that this new detail is 100% worth the effort it will take in removing original detail and fitting this. Other internal cockpit detail includes the rudder pedals, control column wiring, gun sight and mounting deck, and the small canopy opening handle. Eduard are well known for their instrument panel parts too, and the same is included here. The kit dies actually give the option for either a moulded plastic IP, or a simple plastic base with PE parts, but of course, these aren't coloured, unlike these from Eduard. When it comes to making my next Komet, I'll use this version as it's a massive improvement over what is offered in the kit. The IP is produced from a layer with printed instruments which is overlaid with the instrument panel fascia. The effect does look very good. Oddly enough, there is no detail for the engine in this set, so assume it might be in the exterior set, but there are two more parts included here in colour PE, or should I more correctly say 'two alternatives of two coloured parts'? These related to the ammunition saddle, and are an indication of the ammunition used in this, dependent on whether you use the MK108's or MG 151 option. #33130, Me 163B interior ZOOM As mentioned, this is a cut down version of the previous set, with only the colour fret included. It is worth mentioning here that the colour frets in both this and the set above are SELF-ADHESIVE too. #JX161, Me 163B masks Another set I wish I'd had when I built my first Komet. This includes masks for the main canopy, rear external windows, and also the internal, armoured quarter-light windows which sit in the pilot's rear bulkhead. The main canopy mask is provided as an external outline only, with the suggestion you use masking fluid to fill in the centre. DON'T do this if you use Klear or similar for your canopies, as they WILL fog in reaction to the latex/ammonia. Instead, use scrap pieces of mask sheet to infill. Instructions All three sets have clear and concise instructions, with any surgery required, readily illustrated and easy to follow. Conclusion Eduard have done as good a job with this as they did with their set for the old Hasegawa kit, but of course the base Meng kit is infinitely superior to the Hasegawa one, so this set can onl go a long way to produce the very best Me 132 in 1:32 scale. Some scraping and hacking will be needed in that cockpit, so I wouldn't recommend this for an absolute beginner. Detail levels supplied are perfect in order to fix what Meng decided, in their wisdom, to leave out. The only things not included are two fuel lines running from the consoles to the rear bulkhead. Just get some lead wire out, and the job's a good 'un, as we say in this part of the UK. Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to Eduard for the review samples seen here. To purchase directly, click the links in the review. Consider joining Eduard's Bunny Fighter Club programme for extra discounts on your purchases.

Great looking work Jeroen. You get your wood decal looking better than mine. Any progress?

1:32 Turnbuckles GasPatch Models Catalogue # See article for price and code Available from GasPatch Models Gaspatch Models have most certainly transformed the life of the WW1 modeller, most certainly for the better. Rigging can be the real bug-bear when it comes to finishing a biplane project. Yes, some modellers find it quite therapeutic, but for others, having to seize and bind the various cables which stretch between undercarriage struts, and wing struts, can be tedious. Of course, you can always just lash the EZ-Line, or whatever you use, straight to the rigging hole, but if you want that extra realism, without all the extra work, then these sets could well be for you. A few months ago, we looked at the first turnbuckle releases from GasPatch Models, and today, we can bring you a further FOUR sets. These are: 13-32011, Metal Turnbuckles Albatros Type, €14.50 13-32014, Metal Turnbuckles One End, €14.50 13-32016, Metal Anchor Points, €14.50 13-32018, RAF Metal Turnbuckles Late Type, €14.50 All turnbuckle sets come in an easy-to-open clear blister pack, with a small piece of foam stopping the contents from rattling about inside. The packaging insert doubles as a small instruction sheet when opened out. Each turnbuckle set is produced from a process called sintering. This is the fusion of metal powders in order to create specific shapes. This can leave the surface of the item with a slightly rough appearance, but this is only noticeable when you look at the items under something such as the macro lens of a camera. That is unavoidable. To the naked eye, and most certainly on your model, you have nothing to worry about. These packets contain a small block onto which the turnbuckles are connected. You simply need to use a pair of tweezers to bend the base of the buckle back and forth in order to remove them from this block. Do this as you need them so as not to lose any. Depending on which set you buy, there are either 30 or 60 turnbuckles included. The detail on them is also very good, despite their size and production method. I've used these turnbuckles on my own projects, and I found that you occasionally had to open up the buckle hole with a micro drill bit in order to easily slide EZ-Line through them. The small instruction sheet shows the method in which these are to be fastened to your model. Of course, for the RAF type, it's pretty obvious what nationality of aircraft that this particular style is to be used on. The One End and Anchor Points sets look fairly universal to most nationalities, but the Albatros Type are to be used on either Albatros fighter aircraft, or even on other German aircraft which were licence-built by the Albatros company. These have a small ball joint at the foot of the buckle, and you will need to check your references to ensure that this type was indeed used. The parts themselves have a small amount of flexibility, but ensure they are pretty much pointing in the right direction before you fix them, or add them to the rigging line first, and then plug them into your model at the correct angle. Conclusion These really are a must-have item for rigging, and having seen many models where these have been used, I have to say they look absolutely superb. Cost-wise, they probably work on par with separate buckle and seizing tube products available, but of course, these look more accurate and will be a little easier to install. Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to GasPatch Models for the review samples seen here. To purchase directly, click THIS link.

That title is superb! 'Factory return', almost like 'I don't want this anymore, so here it is back' Parabellum machine too?

Loving this one. Why do I want to build this one? Might try to hold out for the regular, non-birdcage type.

That looks great John. Don't you just love spraying yellow!

Those belts look the part. I suppose I'd better fit them in my next one. I can't understand why belts weren't included in the kit. You did a great job of that IP.

It's been a month and a half since I updated this, so I apologise. It's been manic here. I have now finished this model, so I'll post some general update images and some finished ones for you. I've spent days writing now, so I'll just post the images for you. Most of them speak for themselves. Any questions, then fire away! AND FINISHED!!!! Many thanks to Richard from Aviattic for the loan of the Flyer's Badge too! This one will be posted in a future edition of Military Illustrated Modeller. I think issue #37

That about sums it up. I'm addicted to this topic.

Well done Rick! I have to agree with Nick and say the Zero was my favourite. NOW.....what next?

Cheers Nick. I might just take a look

Liking this one, and the extra work you're putting in for detail.

Jesus, why do I want to build one of these? It's not normal! Great review Nige. That's a an imposing project.

Happy Birthday Mike! Have a hot Sake for me!

If Erik has these in larger resolution, and he's willing, then I can FTP them to Neil.

Yes, can you DropBox to me and I'll upload to server FTP? We need nice images of as high resolution as we can get. Cees, do you have any photo evidence of detail at the museum too?

That's coming on real well. Goes to show what a great fit things are generally.

This a benchmark for my H version. I've heard stories about the engines being difficult to get right and install into the nacelle with the exhausts. How do you find things?

1:32 Ju 88A-4 detail sets Eduard Catalogue # See article for code and price Available from Eduard Join Bunny Fighter Club for further discounts It took some time, but Revell eventually got there. Releasing the Ju 88A-4 variant of one of their best kits, that is. Almost from the time that the A-1 was released, we more or less knew that the A-4 was coming, due to the kit break-down and by leaked word of mouth. Still, it took five years though. The original kit was very well catered for with regards to aftermarket, and Eduard have now stepped up to the plate to release some initial photo etch sets for this superb kit. Today we take a look at two of these sets, and also a new canopy masking set, specifically for this variant. 32352, Ju 88A-4 exterior, 18,75 € 32800, Ju 88A-4 interior S.A, 25,95 € JX160, Ju 88A-4 masks, 11,25 € 32352, Ju 88A-4 exterior A few months ago, Eduard began to produce all of their non-colour PE sets without the nickel plated surface, as they do their armour sets. I know for many, this was a welcome step, as it makes park removal and clean-up easier. They are also easier to solder (should the need arise) and I find that CA also adheres a little better. This set is one such 'bare brass' finish product, and consists of a single, relatively large fret containing around NINETY-TWO parts. 'Exterior' basically means anything that isn't cockpit-related, so here, you will find everything from upgraded main wheel bay detail, such as structural formers and gear door upgrades, right through to the tail, where a rather nice replacement for the fuel dump is supplied. If we look at the undercarriage again though, detail is supplied for the legs themselves, such as brake lines, axle shaft end plates and access plates, and also a tail wheel mud guard, omitted totally from the Revell kit. Some detail is provided to replace and refine the plastic moulded detail, such as the lug on the rear tail wheel. In the real aircraft, this was actually used for the bomb loading system cables. Other detail supplied in this set includes the Funkgerät dipole beam for the upper fuselage spine, engine radiator and outboard instrument detail, and also refinements to trim tab actuators. A little surgery will be required for in order to install all items on this set, but in all fairness, nothing that anyone should find even the little bit taxing. 32800, Ju 88A-4 interior S.A. Firstly, S.A. stands for 'self-adhesive', and refers to one of the color-printed frets containing various instruments and the multi-layer instrument panel. This set has THREE photo etch sheets. Two of these are colour-printed, with the last, and larger one being a bare brass fret. Starting with the aforementioned first colour fret, the detail on here is designed to replace just about all cockpit instrumentation. The instrument panel, as mentioned, is built from two main layers. These are a lower part containing just instrument detail, and an upper fascia forming the main panel, complete with bezels and other detail. Extra detail is supplied to attach to this also. All console detail, compass, radio set, and some data plate detail is also included. A second colour fret continues this theme, with yet more instrumentation and data plate/placard material included, as well as console levers and switches etc. Between the two colour frets, you will find approximately ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY-FIVE parts. Colour printing detail is excellent, with solid colour. The RLM66 representation looks very good on the instrument panel and consoles, but you'll have to see how it matches the shade of the specific interior paint you'll be using. The largest bare brass fret is given over to structural detail and those internal areas which were either missed by Revell, or were in need of more than a little Eduard refining in order to make them look acceptable. A replacement etch part with wood grain texture is supplied to entirely sheath the plastic bomb aimers floor location. Other key upgrades include ammunition box detail and support frames, canopy former fascia and associated detail, gondola internal structure framing, ammunition belt feeds, and MG detail, as well as many numerous other parts associated with the gondola and internal canopy framing (grab handles etc). This set will require quite a lot of work to install, and again, some surgery will be needed to implement some parts of it, including both removal of detail and dissection of actual kit parts. As hefty as that might seem, very little of the work is difficult. You will need to roll the occasional part, so some small drill bit should be ideal for that. JX160, Ju 88A-4 masks A release such as the Ju 88 is going to need a comprehensive set of masks, and that's what we have here. There are two Kabuki masking sheets included in this release, both of which are sharply cut. I've had a lot of success with Eduard masks with regards to them fitting perfectly, so I'm sure that this would be the same. This set is specific to the A-4 version and as obvious as it might sound to the majority of us, it isn't suited to the A-1 due to major differences in the glazings concerned with the upper rear cockpit and the twin MG mounts of the A-4 version. Some liquid mask is called for on some panes due to just the inner frame outlines being supplied. If you use Klear or similar on your clear parts, I advise against this as liquid mask is usually ammonia-based, and will turn your canopy cloudy. Instead, use fragments of the mask sheet to infill any open areas. Masks are also included for the wheel hubs. Instructions The instruction sheets for these releases are typically Eduard in style, being line drawings and easy to follow with their graphical keys, shading and annotation. I envisage no problem in anyone following them whatsoever. Conclusion I have the Ju 88A-4 kit right here, and I will most certainly be using these sets in their entirety. There's nothing included here that seems superfluous or unnecessary, so in it all goes! Photo etch quality is up to Eduard's usual high and exacting standards, and the masks are a serious time saver for those of us with less than any ability to mask canopies with any refinement. I'm seriously guilty of that. The glazing areas on the Ju 88 are numerous, so it's a real bonus. Very highly recommended James H My sincere thanks to Eduard for the review samples seen here. To purchase directly, click the links in the review. Consider joining the Bunny Fighter Club for discounts on these and all other Eduard releases, as well as exclusive offers.

1:32 Junkers Ju 88A-4 with bombs Revell Catalogue # 03988 Has it really been SIX years since Revell released their much-lauded 1:32 Ju 88A-1? I really don't know where time goes. What perhaps isn't too forgivable, giving that time span, is the length of time it's taken Revell to finally launch the A-4 boxing of this kit. The A-1 parts break down did pretty much indicate that we would indeed see other variants of this iconic aircraft, but why so long to deliver? Never mind, for me, I'm just pleased to say that we finally have this kit here on our desk for inspection. Revell, you are forgiven. If you've seen the previous A-1 boxing of this kit, you won't be surprised to know that the A-4 occupies the same size packaging, this time adorned with superb artwork. Inside that slightly flimsy top-opening box, THIRTEEN sprues of light grayish-blue styrene, and TWO sprues of clear plastic are supplied. With the exception of the clear sprues which are packaged individually, the remaining sprues are packed in a combination of separate packets, with a number of them doubled up – notably those for which sprue multiples are supplied. This kit isn't simply a reworked A-1 with a handful of different parts. Yes, there are a good number of parts which are indeed common to the previous release, but not all. Some sprues have been replaced with newly-tooled ones which are specific to the A-4, whilst we also have new parts which weren't included in the first release, namely a set of external bombs and ETC racks. This is the summary of changes/inclusions in this the Ju 88A-4 kit. SEVEN sprues common to Ju 88A-1 kit, including new radio set part on sprue C, omitted in A-1 kit FIVE newly tooled sprues, specific to this release TWO sprues deleted from A-1 variant. So, in total, more plastic included in this release. Let's take a fresh, new look at this release in more detail. You'll notice a break in the sprue lettering sequence due to deleted sprues and newly included ones. SPRUE A Being the first, common sprue to the previous A-1, you'll not be surprised to see this one carries key airframe components for this build, namely the fuselage halves and wing upper and lower panels. The beautifully detailed exterior surfaces to both wings and fuselage contain some very refined panel lining and port access detail. As is common with Revell design, there are no rivets to be found anywhere. A few fasteners here and there, yes, but apart from that, the surfaces are a blank canvas for those who perhaps want to add these themselves. I'd much rather add rivets than want to remove excessive divots seen on some kits. All moulding is exceptional, with no defects, next to no flash anywhere, and no trouble with ejector pin marks in the cockpit area due to the interior walls being separate parts. The spine and lower forward fuselage are provided, as before, as separate parts. Slots in the wing roots exist for the interior formers with their integral wing spars to pass through. SPRUE C Here we find more parts which are common to the previous release, namely the two internal formers with their integral wing spars, rear engine nacelle sections, where there bisect the wing leading edge, and also the large rear nacelle underside section, with the gear doors moulded in situ in a closed position. For the tail area, we have two more spars which insert within the rear fuselage, and give a positive locating point for the large horizontal tail surfaces. There are also the two tail root fairings included here. The interior walls for the cockpit are included on this sprue, but will be fitted out slightly different for the A-4 version. These are superbly moulded, with plenty of sharp detail, and look great when painted and assembled. Lastly, a new part for the upper radio bank panel is included. This was snipped off from the previous A-1 release so as not to confuse it with a similar part which was included on the deleted sprue B. SPRUE D Another common sprue. The Ju 88A-4's horizontal tail surfaces were common to its earlier incarnation, and you'll find them moulded here, complete with their separate elevators. The remainder of this sprue is given over to the rather chunky undercarriage legs with moulded gaiter, undercarriage support structures and also dive brakes. Going back to the undercarriage legs, these are moulded as halves, which for me, was always a weakness in their design when it comes to supporting a large and heavy model. Still, this does at least allow you to add a steel pin within them in order to make them a little more rigid.You'll notice just how warped this sprue is. Nothing in the packaging seemed to have caused this, so I can only assume the sprue was perhaps too soft when being handled from the mould. SPRUE F (x2) This sprue contains a mish-mash of parts, from the two part, un-weighted wheels, and numerous other parts associated with the u/c, such as scissor forks and hydraulic rams, to the aileron horns and sealing strips which allowed unbroken airflow when aileron angle was changed. My experience of the earlier version showed that these need to be trimmed to their correct length before installation. SPRUE G Revell have spilt the ailerons over two sprues, with the upper halves being included here. The common cockpit parts, such as internal canopy 'roll frame', radio wall, etc are superbly moulded, with fine, sharp detail. Here, you will also find the lower, forward fuselage section, the exterior panel to the front of the windscreen, as well as numerous parts concerning assembly of the tail wheel fork. SPRUE H This is the last of the regular, common sprues, and again contains a variety of parts from a number of airframe areas. Apart from the lower aileron halves that I mentioned were separate to those parts on sprue G, included here are the gondola shell itself, cockpit floor, consoles and seat/seat frames etc, fuel dump parts, and a series of formers which install into the tail wheel bay. Just as an aside, if you are a super-detailer, then there is an upgrade pack from Profimodeller which replaces the tail wheel bay parts with a completely detailed interior. See our review here. SPRUE I Although this clear sprue is common to the A-1 variant, the instructions rightly shadow out the use of the rear facing canopy part, with it's single MG installation point. Also not for use are the round window panes through which the MG would fit, despite there being two moulded. They are not the correct pattern for the A-4. The gondola rear MG glazing is also redundant. Parts which can be used of course, are the forward canopy, side window panels, and lower forward glazing, and the glass nose. Other parts here are for the bomb aimer position, and forward gondola etc. All glazings are beautifully clear and frame lines have sharp edges, unlike those of the later He 111 kit. SPRUE J We nip over to a newly tooled sprue now, in its light grey/blue plastic, matching the rest of the kit. Now perhaps you can get an idea as to why Revell engineered this model with a separate spine and wingtips. The A-4 variant had a span which was around 5 feet longer than the A-1, and those extended wingtips, and the resultant lengthened ailerons are moulded here. Not only where the wings slightly different, but so was the vertical fin. As well as being a slightly different shape, the rudder also had a tab which notched into the fin at the top of the section. All parts are included on this newly tooled sprue. Now what about that spine? The A-4 spine is slightly different too, housing the Funkgerät‎ dipole aerial and the clear cover which sits atop it. Some panel lining is different too, indicating a slight change in the position of the dinghy stowage position. The remainder of the parts on this sprue concern the cockpit of the A-4, and its different 'fitting out', including new ammunition boxes and MGs, and an entirely new instrument panel which also differed to the previous release. The panel is excellent, and individual decals are supplied for the instruments. SPRUE K This newly tooled sprue contains the external ETC bomb racks and swing braces. Prior to this release, you had to pay for such parts from AM companies, but now, you can save yourself a few £/$/€. The racks also don't disappoint, being detailed enough for most modellers. SPRUE L (x2) The A-4 variant called for a new cowling, and these are supplied over two new Sprue L additions. These have been designed so the channel section which sits below the cowl, is a separate part, so no seam to remove here. There are also newly shaped prop blades, new exhausts, spinners and hubs too. Revell have chosen to add the undercarriage doors to this sprue too, as they did on the equivalent, deleted sprue E SPRUE M (x2) Bomb racks need bombs, of course. Revell have provided two 50lb bombs and two 100lb bombes for this purpose. Moulded as halves, with separate tail fins and fin strengthening rings. There will of course be seams to remove on those bomb cases, but that's pretty unavoidable. SPRUE N Now we have the very last of our sprues, and again, another new one. Containing seven clear parts, this covers the new 'bug-eye' rear facing canopy, with its twin MG installation, and also the dipole cover, rear gondola glazing, and also an internal forward canopy-mounted gun sight. This sprue was cracked in my review sample, but Revell quickly rushed another one out to me for this article. Great service! Again, all parts are superbly clear, and frame definition is excellent. Plastic summary There are a few traces of flash on some parts, but nothing really out of what you would expect from most mainstream injection moulded kits. The kit is free from any troublesome sink marks, and ejector pin marks are thoughtfully placed. A few seams will need to be removed, but certainly nothing out of the ordinary. INSTRUCTIONS You either like Revell instructions, or hate them. Oddly enough, I quite like them. They're fairly retro and remind me of my misspent youth. They almost look like drawn images, and not the usual CAD-rendered sort we commonly see today. The paper they are printed on is not the best grade either. For me, I find them easy enough to follow, and they also show colour call-outs for the various parts and assemblies. This booklet has 18 A4 pages, and there are 113 constructional stages, with two more stages given for the two schemes supplied with this release. DECALS A single, large sheet, printed by Cartograf, is included. Printing is exactly what we have come to expect from this manufacturer, with nice thin decals, minimal carrier film, and perfect registration. Colours aren't too vivid either, so no need to tone things down. As Revell is a German company, no swastikas are included, so you'll need to source your own. A tail band is included for one version, but I would mask and spray this as you're sure to get a more pleasing result. A full set of stencils is included, as well as those cockpit instrument decals etc. Two schemes are included, and these are: Ju 88A-4, 4./KG54, Catania, Sicily, April 1943 Ju 88A-4, 3./Kü.Fl.Gr 506, Leeuwarden, Netherlands, April 1942 Conclusion A lot of modellers have been waiting for this version for a long time. Of course, there have been conversions for the earlier A-1 release, but that does indeed cost extra, and in this day and age, perhaps an extra expense that some modellers can ill afford. Revell have produced a superb kit, with those new parts being every bit as good as those from the original release from 2008. You now have a world of new schemes at your fingertips too, with decal releases from the likes of Eagle Editions. Thankfully, Revell have chosen not to mould seatbelts on the parts in this release, as they did with the He 111 and Bf 109G kits. Their belt renditions are bloody awful, to be honest. If you want belts for this set, consider the textile sets now available from both HGW and Eduard. In all, this is a superb release! Very highly recommended James H Our sincere thanks to Revell for the review sample. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model retailers. For further information visit www.revell.eu