Dave J

The white sections are masked up with Tamiya tape ready for a coat of Black for the fuselage... I have used Tamiya's X-18 Semi-gloss black for the fuselage, but it has been weathered down with some XF15 Flesh to give a worn/faded look. Close up so you can see the tinted difference of the Fuselage and engine, which is straight from the X-18 Semi Gloss bottle. Tape removed... A few touch ups are required! Getting back to some of the smaller parts... The Spandau's... I have drilled a small hole at the bottom of each Spandau and glued a toothpick to them, makes the spray painting process a whole lot easier.. They both have been sprayed with Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black, both look pretty glossy, but they are still wet.. Once dry they will be dry brushed with some grey to make the details pop out. The fuselage has been sprayed with Mr Color Semi Gloss clear Lacquer and started the decal process. I used the hairdyer technique to get the Edelweiss decals to sit down nicely. I did have a small mishap over the weekend involving Sprue cutters and my three year old son..... Luckily, I was able to stop him before he cut all the way through the Fuselage! So the only damage was the internal frame of the cockpit.

forgot to mention as well that I do spray the Games Workshop Citadel range through my Airbrush. In the past I have used the Tamiya acrylic thinners to do so, but now I just use Isopropyl alcohol for all acrylics that I spray. I find this cheaper in the long run as a 4L of Isopropyl alcohol costs NZD$40-50 and a container of Tamiya Thinners is NZD$10-17 for 250ml's. While the seat and the engine were drying, I started to roll the cooling jackets for the Spandau. PE Fret has annealed as per the article on the Hints and tips area on WNW website. Plastic part cleaned up and awaiting the jacket.. The jacket part is placed around a piece of sprue that is the correct diameter, and rolled around it. You could use a drill bit or anything that is solid to do this. The jacket is removed and from the sprue and attached to the spandau plastic part, by using a drop of CA/Super glue on toothpick/cocktail stick. and the same is done again on the front to attach the ring sight to the cooling jacket And it's ready for a coat of paint! Engine is all painted up and and ready to be dropped into interior framing and have the fuselage halfs buttoned up. The engine was painted as per colour callouts in the instructions and the black areas had a dry brush of XF-63 German Grey to made some of the detail stand out. I just need to paint the valve springs and add a wash but these can be done later on... I added a flat clear coat to the seat and the wood grain that I applied earlier stood out more. So I am going to leave it as it is and continue on. The Harness was painted with XF-57 Buff and sprayed on a heavy coat of X-19 Smoke to give that worn dirty look. Interior parts ready to be glued to the fuselage half's Halfs dry fitted - Now the fuselage halfs are all buttoned up, now the fun part I love, adding colour to the exterior... Engine parts are all taped up and cockpit jammed with packing foam. The first thing I had to do was to remove the inspection hatch cover on the front of the fuselage as per Kissenberth scheme, this was done with one of my favorite tools... Hasegawa's Tritool flat blade chisel. I have started off painting the white on the tail area, I used Mr Color flat white Lacquer paint. I love this paint range as it drys very quickly and rock hard. Within 5 minutes of spraying you can throw oil wash onto it. But the only down side that it is hard to find in some countries.

The fuselage has been sprayed with Tamiya XF-76 and been given a oil wash Raw Umber. Cockpit components have been built up and painted as per the Roland instructions. These will get a oil wash also once I have varnished the parts with a clear semi-gloss. I used stainless steel wire for the control cables and rigging in the cockpit area, and attached by using PVA/white glue. I got this from my local LHS, but I believe you can get it from Smallparts.com. I also add a small amount of tape to an end of the wire, so its easy to locate if you drop it. The harness has been added to the seat and awaiting a coat of XF-68. I will use this colour to undercoat the PE Harness and then brush paint them later on. Engine assembly has began and will have a coat of metallic paint shortly I sprayed a coat of Tamiya Nato Brown for the seat back. And then applied a burnt umber wash for wood grain, but it doesn't really show, So I think I will redo it with a bit of black oil paint added... I was going to add some detail to the engine. But since most of the engine detail is hidden away behind the Fuselage half's, once they are on, I decided just to stick to out of the box... So the engine has been sprayed with Mr Color Super Metallic SM05 Super Titanium. I don't use the Tamiya Metallic colours as I find them very grainy once they have been sprayed on. I only used the Metallic colours from Mr Hobby or the Games Workshop Citadel range.

Just cleaning my office at Work and just found my Roland that I started back in 2011... Its near done so I thought I would copy my posting of my WIP from the defunct Aerodrome Model section, and finish it off! So here is the cut and paste of my postings from 2011... Here is my next WW1 subject that I will build online, an Roland D.VIa freshly plucked from the WnW Warehouse. Hopefully I will be able to share some tips and techniques I use, and will help out some of the new comers to WW1 modelling scene. I am also a new comer to this era of aviation as my preferred subjects normally are from the Second World War.... This is my sixth WW1 painted & Rigged build, so if I can do it... I am sure that everyone else can! My chosen scheme for the Roland will be Otto Kissenberth black machine with the Edelweiss painted on the fuselage sides Now I'm off to cut some plastic off the sprues! I finally got a few spare moments to cut out the interior parts and prep them so they can receive their base colours for the wooden components. I leave the parts attached to parts of the sprue for easier handing of the parts during the paint process. Normally I try to leave them attached to areas that will be covered up during the assembly. If this can't be done, I will just go back and touch up the areas later on in the build process. My technique for wood graining is pretty simple and very easy to do. Its very similar to a technique that armour modellers use for weathering. I start off spraying the base colour to the part/s, this case I have used Tamiya's XF-59 Desert Yellow. Next I thin down the oil colour with some turpentine to a very watery thinned mixture. I apply the watery mixture the to the part to tint the base colour. Then I apply dots of the oil paint onto random areas of the part and brush them back and forth to get the grain look onto the part. You can add different colour dots of oil paint to achieve dark grains. It should look something like this one you have finished. Since the oil colours have been thinned drying time is a lot quicker. Normally I find that it is tacky dry in 15-30 minutes and 24-48 hours dry to handle. You can also cheat and use a hairdryer to speed up the drying time. I normally do this method and will spray a clear varnish over the parts to seal them in around 4 hours after using the hairdryer.

Great Stuff Dave! Love the figures too! What do you use to paint your figures?

Nice stuff Jim! So when are you planning to build this one!

Totally agree with you Nick.. I order quite a bit from Lucky... everything I have ordered has come nicely packaged with paints being wrapped in plastic bags and tons of bubble wrap and foam chips

Just getting things ready for the Junkers GB

Set of Techmod Ju88 decals... I mainly got them for the Stencils, as I hate Revell decals...

Bob! Glad to see that you have joined us! Welcome!

When I used to have my kits in the Garage, I used to store all the decals in a folder that I keep inside the house.

Lovely looking area! I wish I could have a setup like that... You will find that you will out grow that paint rack... I had to rebuild mine 2 times so far!

So Jim is nagging me to do another Endecker... and it looks like I am going to buckle... So, I am thinking of doing something a little bit different! On page 24 of the E.1 manual there is a cool photo of a dismantled E.1.. I'm planning to do something along these lines... So I am thinking it should be something quick and easy to do! I just waiting for a couple of things to come in for it and I just need to finish something that I am building at the moment for a friend.. and I will get onto this!

Nice Stuff! Very temping to get one now!

When I have to custom mix stuff I use a syringe to measure my amounts.. Normally I use the smaller ones to work out amounts.

Beautiful!

Thanks to Rick, I had these arrived during the week Another 109... And a Vinyl Cutter! Just need to work out how to use it now!

yea that a pretty good deal if one is looking at getting a HK B-17... The shipping applies to items that are on back order too.

Congrats Rick! Well deserved!

Happy bday big fella!

I am in awe!

I found the trick was to leave off the exhausts and push them into place through the slots in the cowls

Totally agree that its a great kit! Very temping to get another one for the stash... but I think 4 88's are over kill!

Beautiful stuff Mike!

those engines look fantastic!