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DocRob

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Everything posted by DocRob

  1. Don´t want to spoil the party, but the Prince of Darkness is gone. RIP Ozzy Rob
  2. Double wow Kevin, there is a lot of detail to catch the eye. Ion Models have 1/200 Kriegsmarine sailors, which would even add more detail. I used their 1/350 US sailors with my USS Arizona build and liked them a lot. Cheers Rob
  3. Good that you found your mojo back with the Henschels. The Opel Blitz is looking good. I also have the Tamiya kit, but as a special edition with a lot of Aber brass for extra detailing. Cheers Rob
  4. Thank you, the good thing about MFH models is, they force you to super detail, It´s all in the box, no need for aftermarket items. The only thing you need is patience and commitment. Cheers Rob
  5. Looking very good, Gus and will be even better with the Hinomarus present. I have a DSPIAE circle cutter, it is really good and quality made. Cheers Rob
  6. Thank you Hubert, I have to question your status as a serious modeler. There is no thing like an overloaded stash, buy a bigger house . The BT45 was a blunt sword unfortunately, but I always have a heart for good looking underdogs. Cheers Rob
  7. Happy birthday Carl, hopefully not too early. I found a matching song for you on my vinyl´s. Nothing against a bit of Stoner Rock for a birthday party with the lizard . Cheers Rob
  8. Looks very nice. The highlighting works perfectly. Cheers Rob
  9. Thank you Mike, despite the white BT45 never really raced, I liked it better than the red version as well. I´m surprised too, how fast the kit went together in the end. It confirms my initial thought, that a F1 car is way easier to build than a full bodied car. It is not that I spent the whole day in the cave during the build. I haven´t decided on the next build. I will travel a bit over summer, so maybe a relaxed in between build. Cheers Rob
  10. Thank you FA, it was a relatively easy project for a MFH build. It took me less than three month, and it was all joy and not a lot of problematic areas. It seems, I slowly develop my car building skills. Cheers Rob
  11. Here is the song. If the Reverend says so it must be true Cheers (I mean it) Rob
  12. There is a song from The Reverend Horton Heat, which is called "It´s Martini Time". The song is like a anthem to me as I love cocktails and specially Martini cocktails, albeit, I never prepare them with Martini. Anyway, the BT45 would fit into the bar, but no chance, no models in the living area . After two more sessions, the BT45 was done surprisingly rapid in the end. The innards of the nose section fit perfectly and on went the nose. It is removable as are the cockpit and engine fairing. It felt nearly indecent, to paint the beautiful turned aluminum rims, but my car had them in black. After drilling all the needed holes very carefully, not to scratch the precious parts, I primed them with Mr. Surfacer 1500 black and found the matte black looked so good, why spoiling it with a color coat. Finally the tyres were mounted onto the rims and then I added the air vents, which proved fiddly. The tyres are absolutely perfect, with pre printed branding and much heavier and durable then e.g. Tamiya tyres. They need to be with the weight of the car, which is also supported by two spacers under the chassis. Well, let the pics speak: Cheers Rob
  13. Lovely detail with the plumbing. If you ever want to do even more, you could use hose joints, which are available for car models. possibly 1/24 could work, which is made for 0,8 mm wires or hoses. There is one example from Decalcas, but others produce them as well. Hose joints for 1/24 scale models: 0.8mm Hose joints set 3 (ref. DCL-PAR061) Cheers Rob
  14. Thank you Martin, at the moment, it´s about hiding all the details under body parts, but they are removable, luckily. Cheers Rob
  15. Slowly, I´m nearing the finish line. I added many details to the body, like fasteners, bolts and rivets and worked on the final fitting of the body parts. I am always a little scared when it comes to vacuum formed parts like the smoke clear windshield. It´s always best to cut it with a pair of scissors, than sanding, because the burr is very hard to remove. Finally I got it done, using Tamiya flexible masking tape as a guideline. The clear part was glued to the body with 1mm wide double sided clear adhesive tape and then received the tiny rivets. The side air intakes are not finally glued to the body, I may let them removable for better sight on the engine, but then, I add some guiding bolts. Now I´m preparing the rims and the nose section and then wroarrrrrrrrrrr. Cheers Rob
  16. Thank you Mike, there is indeed a lot of detail included. Luckily the design of the kit is very good, which helps to get everything into the body. Cheers Rob
  17. Today, I joined the engine with the monocoque. Test fitting was done before, but a last aggregate with three tubes attached needed to be fittet in between. That proved very difficult, but after some attempts, I got it done. If you ever build the kit, don´t glue the metal end plates (M142, M143) to the monocoque, like shown in step 13. Luckily I didn´t, because other ways I would have had to remove them to fit the engine in step 17. And finally, I tried the fit of the center body parts. Cheers Rob
  18. Thanks FA and Carl, the radiators are indeed protruding far out, but they are relatively robust. The process of getting the complete front section glued to the monocoque needed some hefty handling and they hold up. Cheers Rob
  19. The front section was really difficult to build together due to many intersecting parts. Finally, I got the coolers glued to the framework and let dry for a while. The next difficulty was to add the front section to the monocoque. You had to plan ahead and follow the instructions to the number, to get it done. Finally, I got the four connection points glued in, while fiddling all the other ducts, hoses and wires. I´m lucky that this part of the build is behind me now and I can look forward to marry the monocoque to the engine section soon. Cheers Rob
  20. Great result, FA. Detailing, painting and weathering are spot on. Most modern tanks have little interest to me, but yours looks fantastic. Cheers Rob
  21. Nice work overall, and also well photographed. I like your cockpit with all the details. PE flaps can be fiddly at times, but they improve the look a lot. Cheers Rob
  22. Here the belts are 4 mm wide with applications being 3 mm wide. I have some 1/20 sets as well and they are less wide, but I didn´t measure them. Cheers Rob
  23. Today, I finished the front office. Before installation, I glued all the tubing and wiring to the backside with CA and let dry. Then I fiddled the steering column with the instrument panel in place and laid the wires in their correct places, a delicate affair. After adding the x-bar to the instrument panel, I made the final installments to the front side, namely the fire extinguisher pull ring and the steering wheel. Cheers Rob
  24. Nice job on the rigging Mike. I thought about a simplified method of rigging, when I start mine, but I don´t know, if it will satisfy me. If not, I have a tutorial now . Cheers Rob
  25. Today I finished the steering wheel, which was first airbrushed gloss black for decaling, then received the rivets, followed by a coat of semi matte clear. After drying, I masked the inner part and applied a coat of Tamiya LP flat black and dabbed in some black StreetBlister textile flocks for texture with a brush. I was not satisfied with the matte look and added a coat of Tamiya LP flat clear, again not flat enough. Finally, I used good old Tamiya XF-1 flat black. The fibers were finger dabbed into the fresh point and there are still some of them waiting for a shave. It looks a bit coarse in the pic, but this is heavy macroed. The instrument front panel, made from PE was also sprayed gloss black, followed by decaling the switches and dials, followed by a semi matte clear coat as a finish. I then added some brackets to the instruments, before gluing and riveting everything to the front roll bar, which was polished beforehand. The bezels are supplied as clear acetate circles, which I glued using Future. Last were the white metal switches, with only the fire extinguisher pull ring missing, because it´s to fragile Cheers Rob
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