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DocRob

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Everything posted by DocRob

  1. Great progress on your interesting project. The interior of the cabin looks very realistic, only the cabin light may need to be filtered a bit to the warm side, with a touch of clear orange. The running gear is also very beautiful and is a pleasure to see in working mode. When I was young, I build a steam machine from scratch and it was always very satisfying to see the mechanic gear work with precision. Please keep us in the loop with your locomotive build. Cheers Rob
  2. After another zillion brushstrokes, which barely touched the surface, I think, I got where I wanted to be, more or less. I will let the oils dry for some days and re-evaluate, before I seal the oil color with varnish. It's really hard to get the color show on the photo as in real live. For the following pics, I used my Lumix camera instead of the Iphone and tried to get the lighting and white balance right (Idid that with the Iphone as well). It came closer to the applied color, but still has a hue in it. My interpretation of the Polish brown, seems hard to capture. Cheers Rob
  3. Muchas gracias Amigos, I'm not completely satisfied with the outcome in the moment, I want to spread the color more even onto the fuselage, but decided to let it dry overnight, as it is easy to abrase too much of the color. Working with oils is not always about applying color, its about removing applied colors as well. Hard to explain, but sometimes I work with a color free brush and after half a minute, I remove the accumulated paint from some strokes with a paper towel. @GazzaS I don't have a Tante Ju in my stash and don't plan to purchase one, albeit it's a fascinating airframe. I may go back to the roots with a Junkers D.1 build. My D.1 will be finished in NMF and since a long time, I thought about trying AK's True Metal waxes rubbed into the surface for painting. Cheers Rob
  4. How can you build so fast and paint so good John? Is there a secret, are you a team in reality ? Your Kittyhawk looks the usual great, thanks for showing. Cheers Rob
  5. The second layer of oil colors is applied, I used the oils in a darker and almost paste like consistence. It was dabbed on and spread with a flat brush in different directions. It is not so easy to maintain a relatively even distribution of the color, one brush stroke with too much force and you have to restart the area. The paste like color needs to be spread further, but this will be done after an overnight drying time.. For the wings, I used a thinner mix of color and accentuated the tin fairings panels with targeted flat brush strokes. Cheers Rob
  6. Am I Kai or do you push all of us lately Hubert? Thank you for the information about the different models, there was quite an evolution to the -C model to be seen. Same with me here, I'm learning a lot with using the oils. It's quite essential to use larger brushes and work with very fine brushstrokes as to not remove paint, unwanted. Light stokes also ensure, that the oil colors are spread fine and equally. I dab on the oils and then start to spread them in different directions, finally with the airflow. You can accentuate panels with defined strokes of a flat brush. Cheers Rob
  7. Good news Peter, if they ever release it. So many times, I thought about building a Tamiya 48 scale Beau, but resisted, as I hoped, somebody would release an adequate one in LS, better than the good ole' Revell Beaufighter. Cheers Rob
  8. Like Gaz said, the corroded exhaust look great and contrast nicely to the engine. Cheers Rob
  9. Thank you Martin, I love my airbrush and the results, I can achieve with it. I started using an airbrush long before I reentered modelling to work on paper for posters or stop motion animations, but it's like with all the techniques, all have their pros and cons and if you have a wide palette at hand, you can use them in very creative ways. I love to explore new techniques and skills and sometimes, I choose my subjects only to learn new stuff. You are absolutely right about, how underrated brush painting is, maybe because of bad memories in the teens, while ruining heaps of plastic and glue with bad paintjobs. I started to be more interested into brush painting, when I saw some videos in the net, about sci-fi model painting and stored what I had seen for later. I lately started a build, which was only brush painted on the outside, to achieve a nice layering and weathering effect, but the Ammo Knight was painted with acrylics. With brush painting, it's about to learn it's limitations and to use it to maximum benefits. It pays, to take an unconventional look at, how to achieve a certain result. BTW. Thanks for the pic Martin. Interesting to see, that the spine, behind the cockpit is much shorter than on mine. Cheers Rob
  10. Muchas gracias Amigos, this is only the beginning, but it's interesting to see, how different the surfaces have to be treated. The corrugated wings cry for more thinned laers, where the fuselage painting needs a dryer mix, which has to thoroughly work into the surface, to spread the oil color in very fine layers. The good thing with the oils is, you can easily remove unwanted results with thinner, but this can also happen to a finished layer, which can be ruined by a second coat with too much thinning. It's trail and error and lots to learn . Cheers Rob
  11. I really like what I see, soldered metal, great, a WIP would be great. Cheers Rob
  12. Thanks for the link, which I have not seen before. Mine will be strictly MK.I, as I will go for a silver dope finish and like the wooden IP. Cheers Rob
  13. Great work Peter. can remember the flap/wing assembly was a bit fiddly, with all the options, but as you said, following the manual is essential. The pictures show, everything is aligning cleanly, good job. Cheers Rob
  14. Thank you Phil, I didn't know before either, but this result is what I hoped for and expected. Cheers Rob
  15. The first layer of Polish brown is applied. Opposite to the corrugated wings, I used slightly thicker color and worked it into the surface step by step with dabbing moves, followed by streaking brushes, very lightly along the fuselage. I used a mix of Abteilung basic earth and olive green for the mix, which will be varied for other layers, which will be applied after drying. The result looks a bit streaky, but this will become finer and finer with every pass of the brush. The application method needs some patience. Cheers Rob
  16. De nada Gaz, it's always easier too adopt a new technique, when others shared their experiences. I have often profited from you all, this way. Cheers Rob
  17. Nice detail work and great explanation about what you did. These open hull tanks are full of detail and not easy to build and paint. Cheers Rob
  18. Thank you Peter, oil painting works as expected, it has it's positive aspects, like very fine layering, perfect ability to blend colors, like you mentioned, painting and primary weathering in one stage, ... But it has limitations as well. Masking would not be recommended as the very heavy thinned oil color will go under the masks and if masking material sticks onto oil painted surfaces without destroying them is also a question. I guess, oil painting is limited to monochrome (maybe two color) subjects, which shouldn't look new. I can imagine using oils for ships, specially for the hull, where you can accentuate the different panels, easy made with a flat brush. Tanks are also a possibility and If everything works out with the PZL, there is a ready build 1/16 Chinese Tanquette waiting for an interesting monochrome paint job, including the commander. In the moment, MR. Surfacer and levelling thinner works good for me and if I've found a combo like this, I use it exclusively, as I know all the pros and cons. I try to learn new techniques with every build, some builds, I only started because of new techniques to conquer. This is made easier, if you have some trusty elements in a build and primer is so important. Cheers Rob
  19. If you ask me now, I would say immediately, but then I look at my stash and find so many temptations. Honestly I can't tell. For now, I have the excuse, that I wait for my Brassin MG's. I'm also not sure about the camo and tend to a North African scheme. Cheers Rob
  20. The free hand camo looks great Phil. Will you weather heavily? If so, I would give some of the skirts some dents and bruises and may take one or two off. Cheers Rob
  21. Some more ICM plastic arrived today. The 1/32 Gloster Gladiator MK. I. Browsing through the box shows nicely detailed plastic, which is broken down into not too many parts. Compared to my recent IBG PZL. 11 build, that will be a fast build, I guess. There is less detail and no PE included. Unfortunately there are no seat belts supplied either, so I will have to raid other kits, maybe my Tamiya Mosquito, where I have bought some HGW spare belts. I somehow like these interwar designs and the Gladiator will be an easy build, beside from flat wire rigging. I will build her in a silver dope finish, which looks better than the spinach and barf camo. Cheers Rob
  22. First oil color is on. I mixed the Polish gray according to my reference Hataka color (upper dot on the carton), using Abteilung oils, in this case black and faded German gray and Abteilung's fast drying thinner (second dot) as a base layer. For application, I used mainly a saw brush and started with a medium thinned (milk consistence) gray mix, to cover the whole underside of the wing. After a short (not completely) drying time I applied a darker and way thinner mix only on the corrugated metal in the direction of the airflow, working wet in wet. Another short drying period was followed by a very dry mix of very light color (dot number four), applied with a very flat angled brush from wingtip to wingtip, for highlighting the spars. Last, I used a darker shade of the heavy thinned mix, randomly dotted onto the corrugated sheets. Finally I used the dry saw brush, to blend a bit in the direction of the airflow and dotted some dry paint onto the metal planked edges. I like the result, which is a super thin layer, not obscuring any detail. Hard to see on the pics, though. Cheers Rob
  23. Since a year, I'm using oils more often and not only for some thinner spread dots for weathering. It started with replicating wood texture and leather surfaces and the next step was to paint complete figures with oils. I started to enjoy the fine layering and blending effects and the thought was born to paint a complete kit with oils. I have no real plan, how to do it and will start and see how everything works. Cheers Rob
  24. Better late than never , thank you Mark. Cheers Rob
  25. Thanks Carl, the shield was made, because I don't wanted to use adhesive tape on the fragile backside of the engine and fixed it into place with some strips of tape to the crankcase. I know about the Tamiya primer, but the Mr. Surfacer does the job very good. Cheers Rob
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