DocRob

Very nice and quite different with the wheel fairings and closed canopy. Cheers Rob

Keep on rolling with the big heli Peter, a bit of competitiveness isn't the worst to get rid off routine. I really like to see your build develop, not only because of your usual magic, but also, because I can't imagine to do a co-build with somebody else. I may be to dominant with my vision and approach to think, that could work for/with me, but on the other hand, I have no idea, if there is another modeler around in a diameter of 50 miles . Cheers Rob

Nobody does, I question myself sometimes, when sanity hits. Cheers Rob

Not exactly modeling news, but I didn't want to open an own thread. Modellbau König of Germany has it's summer sale. There are even some WNW kits left with 30% off until 31.07., like the late Felixstowe, the early AEG G.IV, the AMC DH.9 and of course the Gotha on floats. After pondering a lot about the Felixstowe, I couldn't resist anymore and ordered one. It was not so much the price, but the sheer size, which made me thinking for almost half a year, hoping that the remaining ones got sold, only to cry afterwards bitterly . But a while ago, it hit me, I build the big one without the outer wings in a partly opened maintenance setting, so two RFC mechanics accompany my purchase and 225 € seemed fair to me for the grandest WNW offering. Sonderangebote (modellbau-koenig.de) Cheers Rob

One step forward, two steps back. I progressed with the addition of the front suspension and cockpit internals to the monocoque, steps made a bit delicate, because Tamiya decided on a flimsy workable steering and working suspension. The fit was a bit vague in places, but with a bit of wiggling all came together, but without the typical Tamiya snap. The decals for the dials went on perfectly, the RPM-meter got a self adhesive mirror backing, which was supplied in the kit. The yellow body parts are not mounted as of yet, but only show dimensions, fit and very important with this build, how the parts interact. Well, two steps back it was, because I was a bit lazy and omitted an old self imposed rule in plastic modelling. Never use power tools, if it can be avoided. After some hand polishing of the yellow body parts, I remembered, that I own a Proxxon micro drill with a cotton polish bit. To tell a cursing experience short, The bit caught on plastic edges and left marks in my paintjob on two parts . Repainting is necessary and I decided to airbrush the upper body part in white (Tamiya LP-2) first and then spray all the remaining yellow parts together. Luckily the white lay down very well and shiny. Cheers Rob

Thanks for your thoughts Gary. I used oil colors to 'sculpt' surfaces a lot on armor and sometimes on planes and really like the effects possible. Here it's a bit different, it's not only the appearance of a F1 car, which in my case should lock clean, like before a race, but also the very large scale, which has consequences on the way shadows cast and color rendition is accepted by the eye as real. If I would go for weathering, I would stain and dust the base paintjob, possibly toying with the shininess of the clear coat on pronounced contours. Cheers Rob

Thank you Peter, your process description is very helpful. There are still a lot of question marks, when it comes to high gloss finishes to me. Starting with the color application, you stated thin layers with gravity paint, where found a bit off 'flooding' helped to level out the Tamiya LP colors. My experiences with Mr. Color clear gloss are limited and the results ranged from good to very bad, with a frosty appearance and I haven't discovered, how I failed with the latter, with the same result, after a repeated thorough cleaning of the airbrush and respraying. Lots of experience to gain here on that delicate affair. Cheers Rob

I'm really excited, there is a new tool Sea King announced by Airfix in 48 scale. My favorite heli seems to receive an appropriate scale version. I like the idea by Airfix, that the same airframe is depicted in four different liveries over the service decades, the last, being a civilian scheme. The Modelling News: Return of the King - Arifix' new 48th scale Sea King HAS.1/HAS.5/HU.5 Cheers Rob

I wonder too, Gary. In my mind, I always ponder about weathering, but will keep it at a minimum, like the oil wash for the machine. After a race these cars would look dusty and dirty, I guess, but as I'm relatively new to car modeling, this one will be in before race shape. Cheers Rob

Thank you Carl, the idea was born in a mid siesta hight of creativity and luckily it worked. Tape was no option and I considered brush painting, but it would have been difficult to keep the metallic shine through the blue, equally. Cheers Rob

After the primer, in my case Alclad white microfiller, which sprayed fantastic and gave a fine satin surface, I applied the firs body color, in this case yellow. The Tamiya LP-8 was thinned with almost two thirds of leveling thinner and sprayed on in fine layers. For yellow is not the easiest color to spray, it went well and with a relatively fine glossy surface. For the first time, I sprayed some pure leveling thinner over the drying yellow color, which indeed levlled a bit more. I have not a lot of experience, painting car bodies, but I think with a liitle polish and some elbow grease, all will look good as a base for the decals. Cheers Rob

That is in the mail Peter, but I couldn't wait to paint some body parts. Cheers Rob

Thank you Peter, nothing better to have trusty colors at hand. There are some of the LP colors, which are not up to the others, I found. I had a blue tone, forget which, which covered badly and the gloss white has a perfect finish, but coverage is a bit sparse. Flat Aluminum looks too flat for my liking, no real aluminum is that dull. Today I primed the body parts and after looking for some white primer yesterday, a type, I never used before, a bottle of Alclad white primer showed up and got the nod after some test shooting. First impression is, it covers well and produces a perfect silky surface. After thoroughly drying, I will test the durability with some tape, but I'm positively surprised about the result. Cheers Rob

I thought the same like Hubert, instantly, but looking more close to your pictures, it seems all is invisible after closing the fuselage. The only possible area to leave a view could be the side door. Cheers Rob

You may think, I was lazy, as I've posted no updates, but no. The nature of the build dictate, that there is a lot of painting and planning ahead involved with this build along with time consuming cleanup. The kit shows it's age, but all is manageable. I sprayed different metal and black shades to the monocoque and front suspension but nothing is assembled now, the pictures are only a mock up. I decided to use Polished Aluminum from the Extreme Metal range, but it permanently clogged my airbrush, even after in thorough between cleaning. Strange, last week, it sprayed without problems. I opted for Chrome then, which looks bright and shiny and enough like polished aluminum. As a primer, I used Tamiya's gloss black LP color, which is fantastic for the purpose. The designated AK black primer proved horrible in earlier test and never thoroughly dried, with keeping it's tackiness, even after weeks. All other colors were from Tamiya's LP range, namely Sparkling Silver, Metallic Grey, Silver and Semi matte black. All these colors spray exceptionally well, thinned with Leveling Thinner and are very durable. Cheers Rob

Thank you Mark, definitely a different approach than armor or planes, as you always have to work on the inside and outside at the same time. With a plane, you close the hull and on you go, but here it's subassembly after subassembly, always checking the fit and what will be hidden and what shows,... There is definitely more planning involved. Cheers Rob

Glad you spare me the worst, Kevin . I know almost nothing about the innards of race cars, but like always, when I don't have the slightest idea and I'm to lazy to check references, I do what feels right to me. Totally freedom that way. I will substitute the clear tubes later, as I really don't like the look. Cheers Rob

Tamiya's gloss black LP color is perfect for this and other purposes. I love to work with it and the semi gloss black variant. Cheers Rob

I like the result, mostly Gary. There are parts, where the wear seems a bit over pronounced. I had very good results, stippling color carefully with a brush onto those parts. Keeps the look of wear, but takes away the overly harsh contrasts. Cheers Rob

Fantastic detail is showing in your cockpit, Phil. Always a great moment, to close the fuselage. The Mossie kit seems to be a real gem. Cheers Rob

Very nice build and paintjob, you made me thinking once more, about buying the big Spitfire myself. Cheers Rob

All right Peter, a late call for competition to fire the engine, I have to admit, I never took part in a modeling competition and I guess, it must be an interesting experience. I share my builds only with you here on LSM and over on MSW and I'm my most feared competitor myself. I wish you luck, not only with the competition model, which I hope you will share with us, but also for your and your wives health. Cheers Rob

The RIO looks pretty comfortable in his seat, could be a jacuzzi as well . These figures are absolutely gorgeous and will add a lot of life the the big cat. Cheers Rob

Very nice, denders, I really like the paintwork, with the right amount of sheen to the GSB. Cheers Rob

Muchas gracias amigos, I like the looks of that engine too, but the clear fuel lines are oversized to my eye. I will substitute them with thinner clear brown tube from Hiro, but need to snip off the plastic lugs first and add some tiny wire rods to accept the smaller tube. I hope next week a parcel with some car goodies will finally show up, with some resin connectors and braided lines and other stuff, to get the Renault done. Cheers Rob