GazzaS

Thank you, Phil.

Thanks, mate!

Thank you! I like that!

I've just been invited to join MeWe by one of my Luftwaffe groups. Hopefully it'll get big. Because I'd like to get away from farcebook someday.

Thank you, Peter! I will give it a try!

Thank you, Rob! The truest advantage of the oils is that you can use them and leave very little texture behind. I've made the mistake of 'stacking' acrylics before when what I wanted to do was blend them. So I won't go that route again. As for pigments, I've just never really had any luck getting them to look the way I want. I've always had a small fascination with the maschinenkrieger thing. Not enough to actually get involved... but they do look interesting. Gaz

Thank you, Kai.

My first attempt at snow using the chipping method. I decanted some cheap hairspray into an old paint bottle and applied it with my airbrush. I'm not happy about the over-spray. They said to work in small areas. Anyway... once I get it all on, I'm hoping that regular weathering effects will make it look more realistic. Gaz

Hello friends, For a long time now I have been dreading, yet waiting with anticipation for this step of the weathering process. For a long time I have theorized on how one brings a three-dimensional object to life that is in one of the base colors. Because we deal so much with grays, greens and browns, I haven't given much consideration to yellow, red, and blue... though the WWI models have certainly been forcing this question to the forefront of my mind. Obviously, you cannot use black, or gray to make a shadow in yellow. So, your only real option is to use warm colors like yellow and orange. In the first photo you can see how I've added oils to the rudder to brighten higher spots and darken lower areas on the rudder. With the second photo, I've tried to apply those same rules to the yellow cowling beneath the engine. The next task was to blend the colors so that the transition from bright yellow to yellow-orange is subtle. The third photo will show the finished rudder. The fourth photo will show you the lower cowl after I realized that the armored oil-cooler ring would also cast a shadow. I believe this is only round 1 working with the yellow parts. I think that tomorrow or later I'll need to do it again, this time introducing a tiny bit of white to the brightest yellow. Your opinions will be greatly appreciated. Happy modelling!

Looking mighty fine, John!

Well... after an hour of laying more panzer putty, I've a final painted result. I suffered a little paint lift in an area where I did no sanding. You can also see where the torn off brackets are. I'm not overly sure I'll ever go through the process again. While it prevents over-spray, it also causes lines that don't look natural for something that would have been painted with a paint gun. I'm hoping a couple filters will soften and blend everything. On this occasion I tried something I never did before: I thinned the SMS lacquer paint with Bunning's Diggers lacquer thinner in the purple can. Seemed to work alright. I also painted most of the mantlet, gun, and bow freehand. That is because Panzer putty has no adhesive properties. The two blurry photos are what photos look like when I don;t use the tripod.

So... how do we go about setting up another social network?? I suppose the first answer would be money... and most of us just aren't that solvent.

Thank you, Kai! There is still a fair bit to do.

whatever it is... a farce or whatever... is still the source of many historical photos. So it is still of use to me until somebody comes up with another one.

This is me all over. I'm waiting for my ban.

Hola Amigos y Amigas! After some useful advice from LSM friends, I have made some changes to the paint. It cost me a lifted decal... but I was able to change the direction of peeling away the thrice de-tacked masking tape, and re-seat the decal. The first two photos will show the black area added the the sides of the machine in a way hopefully very similar to what JG 26 did with their early FW's. The following three will show the exhaust streaking I have added in various shads of gray. Hopefully it looks quite like the photos discussed previously. I need to figure out how to take B&W photos with the Wife's Canon Olympus.

Very nicely done interior, John. That shade of green is mighty convincing!

This build is crazy... but awesome all the same.

I hope you aren't too offended. Besides... all of those things you mentioned were great parts of my earlier life in Michigan.

Ummm... yes. Nobody wants a big beaver, do they? Speaking of Big Beaver... Lemme show you a roadsign I saw a lot in my former life in America:

Congratulations, Rob! Both machines look great. The size difference is quite amazing. I'm impressed that you would be able to build the little one, after completing the 1/32 version.

How big of a model do you want??

Huh?

Because this will be a winter-white covered StuG, I decided to experiment with Panzer Putty. I tend to let the dark yellow color dominate. So, I decided to go the other way. I'm sure it would benefit from touch up and a filter or two.

Very nicely weathered pit, Kai! This is one more area I need to work on. I'm lazy when it comes to pits.