Landlubber Mike

Looking great! You're giving me the motivation to finish my FM-1 Wildcat...

A couple of other things I thought I'd pass along: 1. Not sure if Chris suggests using filler blocks, but they can be really helpful at the bow and stern areas where the planks bend a lot yet have few attachment points. I didn't use them on my Badger (first build), but tried using them on my next builds and found them to be a life saver. 2. Also not sure if Chris recommends cutting in a rabbet along the bottom of the keel and stem post for clean planking. 3. I've found that the back end of the false keel (where the stern post sits) generally needs to be thinned down quite a bit, as you are running one or two layers of planking into the stern post on each side, which usually makes it considerably thicker than the stern post. There are multiple ways to deal with this, but I find thinning the end of the false keel in anticipation of the planking layers that will hit it makes things much easier. EDIT: Just saw that Ernie ran into this on his build. 4. Are you planning on mounting the model on pedestals? If so, you might want to consider how you are going to do this (maybe Chris' kit already makes arrangements for this). I used some #6 machine screws (2" or more in length), which are epoxied into the false keel. There is a channel drilled through the keel for the screws. You need to take into account the length of the pedestals, how far up the false keel the nuts need to be to avoid interfering with the planking, placement of the pedestals so visually the model looks supported, etc. Easier to do all this before the planking goes on. Here is a picture from my Pegasus log on MSW (which also shows the bearding line and thinned down area near the stern post, and not too clearly shows the rabbet along the keel and stem post): EDIT: Just saw that the kit provides an acrylic stand. Personally, I like pedestals to better show off the hull than a cradle type stand, but the one with this kit looks great. 5. I can't quite tell from the pictures if you will have stubs to cut off at the tops of the bulkheads once you have planked the decks and bulwarks, but I found veneer saws to be very helpful removing the stubs. Again, my apologies if you already know all this - just thought I would pass these along in case they might be helpful to you or to others that are new to wooden ship models.

Hi Rob, great start so far. I wasn't sure if this was your first wooden kit or not, so forgive me if you already have experience with all this. Take your time with the pre-formed bulwarks, as you need to fit them correctly and accurately or you'll have problems down the road. Soaking followed by pinning/clamping, let dry, then repeat. On my Pegasus build, I did this maybe three cycles. I found that the plywood has a tendency to spring back, and the subsequent soakings/pinnings after the first have diminishing returns. One good thing about doing it a few times is that the plywood tends to soften as the fibers (?) stretch out and you can build in a concave/convex curvature in the bulwarks - that was a feature in the Pegasus, not sure about the DoK. Get lots of clamps and pins, and use levels to make sure that the heights of the bulwark patterns are equivalent on both sides. A key thing would be to stick the keel spine perpendicular in a jig so that you can use mini levels. For plank bending, I haven't used that particular tool, which I think might score the underside of the plank to assist with bending. When I need to put a good sized bend in the planks, I usually go with either of these two bending tools, which I believe I purchased from MicroMark (the second one is awfully expensive now, I love mine but I'm pretty sure I didn't spend anywhere near that on it when I bought it): I've also used this heat based one when working with ebony, as ebony doesn't really comply very well when trying the soak and bend method:

Wow, that's really nicely done. I wish I had 10% of your mojo...

Rob, To insert pins, I tried a ton of different products. The Amati pin pusher was the best "pin pusher" product out there, but it died after my first build. Since then, I found these spike insertion pliers. I think mine may be from Xuron, but this is the Micromark product: https://www.micromark.com/Spike-Insertion-Plier I found it allows you enough strength to hold the pin and manually push it through the plank into the bulkhead, filler block, etc. You don't have to insert the pins all the way down to the head with the tool, so once the glue is dry, you can then use the tool to pull the pins out and re-use them. It's the easiest tool I've used to pin planks to the model.

I've been a member of MSW for many years now. Before getting back into plastic I worked on wooden ships. This Chris Watton kit looks absolutely fantastic. Not only is the subject beautiful, but he is an expert kit designer. You'll have a lot of fun with this one!

Nicely done! What did you think of the kit? I have one sitting on the shelf with the MDC glazed nose bomber conversion kit.

Nice Martin! Thanks for sharing those rivet plans. I started my 1/48 Buffalo a couple of nights ago, and might add riveting details as well. Those plans are really helpful!

Thanks guys! Bomber, my 1/350 destroyer (Hasegawa's Shimakaze with the excellent Infini upgrade set) is just about done, but can post a bunch of the WIP pics I took along the way. Hopefully should have that completed in the next week or so. I'm also currently working on a 1/700 IJN minelayer Yaeyama, which is a FiveStar resin and PE kit. I've had to supplement it, but it's been a nice kit. I'll post that one too if people are interested. I just don't want to annoy people posting modeling subjects and smaller scale projects that really aren't the intended subjects for this forum.

Thanks Peter! Hopefully my 1/350 destroyer diorama comes out looking like this one. I should be done with it in a few days, maybe I'll post it on here when completed. I've hesitated posting a log on here given that this is mostly a plane and armor site.

I'm near the finish line on my current 1/350 destroyer build, and wanted to put it in a waterline diorama. Since I've never done one before, I pulled out the Hatsuzakura as a test run. I used the crinkled foil technique with Liquitex heavy gel medium and cotton for the waves and wakes. Pretty happy with the way it turned out. I think the waterline diorama setting really brings these models to life. Thanks for looking in! I'll get to a large scale model soon, I promise!

I finally tested positive. Yesterday wasn't fun, but feeling better today. Hang in there Tim! Advil has helped a lot - at least for me.

Be safe Peter! Hope things aren't as bad as they are forecasting.

My kids all got it this past weekend, but it was like a mild cold for them and they are pretty much better. I think I had it back in March 2020, where I felt really tired near the end of the work day but no other symptoms and feel similarly now. Tested negative this weekend, but feel like I'm at least fighting it. Got the shots, but didn't get the booster. Seems like everyone is getting it. It's pretty rampant down here where I live. Last two years, I barely knew anyone that got it. This past month or so, I know a ton of people that have gotten it. Thankfully everyone has been handling it fairly well.

Fantastic work! Love the color scheme and markings. Well done diorama 👍

Fran, I came across this YouTube clip from Vallejo - is this your model? I thought it looked very familiar!

Such incredible work, wow! Congratulations on another stunning build! I have a few WW kits in the stash, and have been waiting to get a little better with the airbrush before tackling one. I have to say, I think you've convinced me to go with those Aviattic linen decals. The textured look is amazing.

Ditto on the Infini cutting templates. I picked them up (I have three of the four templates) for my ship models, but they can be used in so many applications. When I first saw them, I was thinking to myself why would I need them? Now I can't imagine working without them.

I will never buy from Kitlinks again. They stiffed me on an order of a few Taurus engines, which are not exactly inexpensive. All my emails went unanswered, including one that went directly to Loic. Beware dealing with them.

Wow, very cool looking subject!

I guess I'll throw my name in too, though that's an awfully generous prize.

That's looking really sharp! Nice job!

Maybe you can finish mine - I'm just about at the finish line but takes me forever to complete models 😕

Came out great! Nice job!

Just to let folks know, Drifter will be receiving the P-40. Thanks Seiran01!