CANicoll

Thanks Mike!! Rob, I ended up cutting out the folds (and a lot of carrier film) which seems to have done the job. The camera may not show the glossy coat well (probably my lighting so as to not show too many reflections) however no silvering so far. The bigger problem is the yellow film which is attached to the back of the decals. I have tried that, and not been successful on getting that to do anything but heat up the decal sheet. The yellowing comes from the decal in the water and is under the decals so I guess part of the paper? The challenge is the for most of the decals I've been able to actually wipe off the yellowing (literally flipping the decal over and brushing it with a wide, wet brush) but the yellowing isn't coming off of all of the decals. The larger ones do pretty well - not intuitively. Having more problem with the smaller decals such as the "Goodyear" decal over the front wheel well. Making progress on the body decals. The front grills are painted the same color: Vallejo Metal Color Gunmetal. Funny how the light makes the same paint look completely different. While the decals dry worked on the chassis. The instructions are not very clear as to where all of the roll cage pieces go, but with patience it does work out in the end. Lots of touch-up to be done and some additional detail painting. The hoses in the back are another matter. Need to get the clear windows into the body before I permanently attach them to figure out where they go.

Amazingly enough, it worked pretty well! Here is the decal on the piece of tape that pulled it off the car. I soaked it in water for a few hours then gently worked a toothpick and then a number 11 blade under the decal to fully loosen it from the piece of tape - applying lots of water as I went. The end result is not perfect, but considering what I had before, better than nothing!

Well, as expected the decals are proving to be something of a challenge. The rooftop #3 has two major wrinkles I need to remove but when I hit it with a decal solution, the wrinkles shift. The decals are rather thick so not reacting well to decal solvent very well anyway, but I'm reluctant to using Solvaset. Some work to be done there. Also, the decals all have a brownish tint that has to be washed off. Here is the residue on the backing paper. Painted the lower panel Dull Aluminum (Vallejo Metal Color after having to use the end of a brush to break up the pigment in the bottom of the bottle and give it a really good stir for several minutes) in preparation for the red pinstripe. Just could not bring myself to use the kit decals. Also created my own problem when one of my masks slipped and it took off half of the rear decal. Not sure what I'm going to do about that. I'm soaking the offending piece of tape in the hope it will eventually release the decal. My bad! The plan is once the decals are on to get a nice clear coat on and polish that. I have a 70 Challenger in the stash so may try that sometime - polishing the paint before laying down the clear coat. Will see how the #3 turns out...

Thank you! I used to do mostly 1/48 as they are fairly quick builds but still have decent detail. I also like the Eduard kits as they seem to go together pretty nicely.

The trials and tribulations you have gone through with this build! Looking good and the finish line is in sight!

Same for me! The nice thing about the #3 is that it is pretty much all black. If this goes well I may try a Richard Petty #43 in that STP Red/Orange and Blue.

Decals don't often come out so well, nicely done!

Hey Scott. I've always used acrylics on the rubber tires, preferring the 'Rubber Black' esp Vallejo, WHEN I use the Rubber tires. Lately, preferring resin when I can find them. Some of the old rubber tires I've painted have the paint chipping off as they rubber settles with the weight of the plane (in my cases). Hope you have better luck with yours!

Beautiful John and extra nice on the IP. Wow. Just have to love an AVG P-40.

Dave, Nice looking! Very clean and sharp. Really like that stand, too. Fancy!!

Mike thanks. I was beginning to wonder the same thing about getting a lot of rest. I don't feel badly, just very tired... The cough I've had for two weeks already so expect that to hang around for a while... I do like the Vallejo black primer which seems to give a very consistent smooth black finish, and it's not a lacquer.

Super work on the figures - wow. Quite a bit of work there, Hubert and as Martin said, nice expressions. Especially like the covers on the camels. The jigs you made up certainly did the work and I don't know that I've seen such extensive jigs like that in quite a while.

Martin is the national treasure that keeps on giving...

The 'hawk is looking great and the cockpit is fantastic. Have fun with the markings! That faded blue roundel will be interesting to duplicate - and I had the same idea as Hubert - just cut the white star out of the usual marking - before Martin's excellent research find. Looking forward to the finish here!

Nice work! The camo pattern is perfectly done.

Thanks Rob. I have no problems with the normal Vallejo Black primer, and most of their other paints, but the gloss black I am not good with. I do have Mr. Surfacer, several levels, but have never tried to thin and prime with it. With your urging, I think I'll give it a go on my paint mule. I do not have many Tamiya paints, and none of the lacquers but I have heard they are nice paints. The other challenge is I now paint with Vallejo, MRP (more and more), Alclad and have leftover Model Master Acryl. I'm tempted by AK Interactive and some other of the new lacquers. Best, Chrsi

Hi Mike: The doc said they are seeing a lot of Walking pneumonia and Covid - not so much Flu so far so your daughter was on the early end of that here. How long was your daughter out for? The cough is annoying, but more I'm tired. Slept about 10 hours last night (which I usually sleep about 7). Rob - Thanks, me too on both. I appreciate it. I'll look today to see if there are any AM ones available. I cannot get the Vallejo Gloss Black Primer to spray consistently. When it sprays nicely, it is beautiful. But on the vast majority of my tries, it does not. On this build I was careful to really wash the plastic in my usual dish soap with a soft brush. With these older kits I wanted to make sure the mold release was off the plastic.

Thank you, Kevin!!

After the last two detailed builds, thought I'd try something different, hence the Revell Dale Earnhardt #3. Mostly because I want to see if I can get a nice, shiny NASCAR body done with all of those decals. Not going to spend hardly any time under the hood (which will remain closed) but want to do a reasonable job on the interior. NASCAR engines are not all that interesting anyway, but the interiors can be somewhat interesting, not that anyone will get to see much of it. Plus, somehow, I've come down with Walking Pneumonia so need SOMETHING to do while I wait for the antibiotics to kick in. This kit is from 2000, which is the year before he was killed at the 2001 Daytona 500. I picked up the kit that year. Kept it shrink wrapped until opening it a few weeks ago. The decals still have yellowed a bit... I guess it is good a lot of the decals are grouped together, especially with not a lot of clear carrier film noticeable. The current plan is to paint the gray lower panels with the red pinstripe. And we will see how 24-year-old decals respond... Laid down a coat of Vallejo Gloss Black Primer first, which was a HUGE disappointment - splotchy and would not lay down. Looked like crap. So covered that with the usual Vallejo Black Primer which I have found always goes down so smoothly. Covered beautifully. In the background are some of the gray interior parts and black primer for the wheels Right after finishing the last coat, I somehow managed to airmail the body across the room so there are a couple of small nicks I need to clean up. Tomorrow this will get a nice coat of X-11 Tamiya Gloss Clear in prep for the decals.

Beautiful work, and the detail and painting are terrific, but WTF is going on with Aires?? That is just amazing how bad those parts fit.

Hopefully! It is being held in Southern VA at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay: Hampton Roads Convention Center. About 4 hours from DC and Northern VA, close to the border with North Carolina. August 6-9, 2025

Beautiful work! Love the Eduard kits and you did a masterpiece. The finish is excellent.

PW, the finish really is amazing. Nice work!

Peter, Happy birthday my friend! I was trying to look back to when we first met, but I think that was well neigh 15 years ago at the other place? So good to have met you and enjoy watching and learning from your excellent work. I really enjoy your builds, and your latest foray into the railroad buildings is just fun to watch. Many happy returns!

Rob, the sand effect is very cool and I'll have to keep that in mind. But despite the problems with the hairspray, I think your plan B looks AWESOME. The Metal looks perfectly worn. Also like what you did with the clear window - not sure I would have thought about using Tamiya Extra Thin like that but perfect effect. I was wondering if the glass would have been penetrated? Regardless, the total effect is terrific. You have a real talent. Love the look.