JeroenPeters

Small progress! I bought the CMK resin MG-15's. Then discovered these had the wrong sights. So I also bought the Master barrels. I used the resin CMK bodies. Revell ball mount and mantel and Master barrels. Now dipping in blackening agent.

1:32 Fieseler FI-103 (V1) Profimodeller Catalogue # 32279 Available from Profimodeller for € 55,- First some history The V1 (or Vergeltungswaffen 1 > Retribution weapon 1) was the first ever unmanned jetplane that flew. It’s nicked Buzz-bomb because of the buzzing sound the pulse jet engine made. The official name however is Fi-103 as it was built by the Fieseler factory. Yes, the same factory that built the Fieseler 156 Storch! Another, less known name for the V1 was FZG-76. Meaning Flakzielgerät 76 and hinting at use as an anti aircraft missile. This was the official program name and used to mislead allied intelligence. Other nicknames used by the germans were Krähe (crow) and Maikäfer (May bug) on Hitler’s orders. The latter alike to yet another nickname used by the allies: Doodlebug, after the distinctive popping sound the engine made. The V1 was powered by the As014 Argus Pulsejet and drank 75 Octane gasoline. The starting procedure was quite the ritual and involved electric starters, airhoses and a powered ramp with a steam powered piston. The V1 reached a speed of 580 km per hour as it left the ramp! The V1 called for high speeds as the V1 was prone to stalling due to the small wings. Cruising speed was about 640 km per hour (400mph) and the reach was about 250 km. A relative small distance, which required take-off from Holland, Belgium and France in order to reach Great Britain. Remains of these take-off ramps can still be found in these countries. The ramp actually fired a plunger with a hook that pulled the V1. This plunger would land a considerable distance further in the fields. Take-off was also done from the wing of a bomber. A risky procedure where 77 bombers were lost during the launch procedure, take-off or mission. Here's a look at a V1 mounted on a ramp in France: And here's a look at the plunger that pushed the V1 along the ramp: You can see the tube the plunger travelled through and the opening on the top for the hook on the plunger: The culprits... So, the V1 is not a rocket (as it is sometimes called) but rather a plane, since it has wings and a jet engine propulsion (and not a rocket). This would make an interesting model. The He111 with a V1 slung under it's wing: At the peak of it’s use more than 100 V-1’s were fired at England, with a total of almost 16.000 produced of which 2400 ‘landed’ on London (fired from France) and 2400 hit Antwerp (fired from Holland). The rest didn’t make it to their launch. No wonder that many V-1’s survived and found their way to museums worldwide. Some completely original, some part replica and some restored from collected parts. The 2 spherical pressure tanks, wound by pianowire. The small propellor at the tip of the nose that measured the travelled distance. The fuel injection frame at the front of the pulse jet. All very recognizable parts when looking at dug up remains of a V1. The V1 in 1/32 The V1 is a subject that somehow eluded the 1/32 modelling scene through the years. Yes we have the 1/35 Bronco offering (which is not very detailed nor accurate) but that’s about it! If you want to mate the V1 with the wing of a He-111 or combine it with another 1/32 subject the scale difference between 1/35 and 1/32 will become evident. Having built the 1/32 HPH Reichenberg (basically manned V1) and both the 1/35 Bronco Reichenberg I was shocked to see how much these differed in size. Talking of the HPH Reichenberg and looking at the first photo’s I saw of this kit, I suspected most parts to be a copy (or perhaps shared moulds) from the HPH offering. Having inspected the resin parts at hand, I can tell you that they are not. Timeline-wise it’s interesting that Profimodeller first released two different transport trolley’s for the V1 before they released the V1 itself. Two very comprehensive and well researched kits with insane detail: • The transport trolley (kit P32280) • The V1 Anhänger (kit P32247) >> Review here (scroll down). This kit is in fact one of the first real standalone kits Profimodeller releases. If you don’t count the above carts… it actually is, so it is interesting to look at the whole package in this review: Decals, part break down, engineering, schemes and instructions. The Model So let’s take a closer look at this very first kit Profimodeller produces! A rather small box opening at the top, containing three bags. Two with resin parts (big > fuselage and wings) and small (engine, rudder, nose cone, etc..) and one bag with the decals and photoetch. The first thing I looked at was the surface structure on the wings and fuselage. Pretty delicate rivets and fine panel lines is what you find. Also the overlapping panels and fuselage strengtheners are well done. When you look at the inside of the fuselage you’ll find locating holes for small rods that serve as locating pins. Same technique you’ll find on HPH and Silverwings kits. The most challenging bit is trying to mate the fuselage halves, removing the seam and restoring small rivets and panel lines that you will loose when sanding. A dry-fit tells me that this will be minimal with this kit. The forward fuselage is moulded separately. Perhaps to avoid the risk of warping or breaking, or just to make them easier to cast. The lip that is made along the vertical seam will help you to make a strong joint. Fuselage parts and wings: Just like the real thing, the fuselage has two holes in the sides to accommodate the tubular beam that supports the wings. The beam is included, but I would suggest to replace this with proper brass tube! Much stronger. And when posing the V1 with the wings off (like I will) a brass tube will look more convincing too. The wings differ from the Reichenberg wings in the sense that the V1 was steered by a gyroscopic device from the tail planes and rudder. The Reichenberg also had ailerons on the main wings. Nosecone: Tail: Engine: The smaller resin details contain the engine that are cast almost solid. HPH offers a 2 piece resin front of the engine (intake and body) and metal tube for the rear. I added my own weld line along this metal tube (since this is a prominent feature on the V1 engine). Profimodeller takes a different route and offers the engine in 3 resin parts with cast on weld line. Pretty slick. Other parts cover the tail which is very nicely done with almost all the details. The only thing I’m missing is a small inspection hole in the tailpiece that shows the rudder control mechanism. As on the HPH kit, I will add this detail myself. The photoetch is nicely done and contains the rudder control, fuselage strengtheners, the Argus fuel injection frame and an extra cool feature that I will definitely include: a transport nose protector that protected the small nose propeller during transport. What’s also included are the details on the wingroots that will be visible in transport configuration. Another detail I had to scratch on my HPH Reichenberg. Another great detail this kit captures nicely is the inside of the intake. The intake starts round and then goes to a square shape further in. I love this attention for the real thing. The schemes 6 of them. And as I mentioned before… diverse! The only thing I’m missing is background information on the different schemes. Especially when doing a diorama it would be important to know what scheme suits what situation. I guess you’ll have to do your own homework here! The scheme with the blue broad band around the fuselage kind of speaks to me, and I’ll try to figure out where and when it was used. Part of the fun I guess. The decals are actually all stenciling for the ground crew as no unit badges or crosses were applied on the V1. Verdict Dare I compare this kit to the HPH Ohka and Reichenberg? Yes! Since they are the only game in town to compare this kit to! We all know HPH has raised the bar when it comes to resin kits with smart engineering and superb detail. Well… It looks like we have another company that wants to play along. This kit is complete. Well engineered (just look at the fuselage break down), well researched and nicely cast. The casting blocks and flash are easy to remove. The schemes that are included are diverse and many. What else can you wish for? A solid 9 out of 10. Keep an eye out for my imminent build of this kit, together with it’s transport trolley. My sincere thanks to Profimodeller for providing the review sample. Get your copy right here. Kind regards, Jeroen Peters

I can picture these in a museum, but not on my shelf

Oh yes! Love the mottling!

Saw that! Birddog! Curious about your name Carvair. I happen to have a piston from a Carvair.

Wow! Can you tell me more about that yellowish primer?

Thats really cool...

Lovely!

Nice work! You might want to drop some micro clear in the instrument dials to make them pop!

Wow.. Thnx for the extensive explanation. Those 3d renders look amazing too.

Saweet!

Hi Nick, It took me a while to find the right words to respond to your post and frankly I don't think I've managed to find them. Your inspirational work deserves to be out there. Out here.. And thank you for sharing it with us, especially after the ordeal you are going through. You are definitely paving the way for us as we cross over to a whole new era of model building. Please keep it up... Best regards, Jeroen

More like a splinter i'm sure

Cheers! Here's me masking the canopy inside and outside. The Montex masks are.... well... crappy. Most of them undersized, so need to add masking tape to a lot of locations. I hate this part... But who doesn't??

The Trumpie is actually getting sold out fast... Harding to come by these days

Very very nice... Now the fun begins!

As I posted some photo's of the model on Revell's stand of the coming Me262 I thought I'd pop a topic up here too. It appears that Radu Brendan is involved which surely is a good thing. I wasn't too impressed with the photo's and I'm glad to hear it is not a representation of the final product. Really can't wait to see how this plays out!!

Oh man! That's the first time I've seen a frame built like that! Must be pretty strong. Well done!

Again... This is true.

Thnx! Still soooo much work to do!! At least I have the proper tools And here's a photo I received per email by fellow member HJKR. Very happy with this one. It shows a row of power eggs to the right in the metal maintenance jig AND it shows a row of power eggs to the left in the wooden jigs (like I'm making). On the back you see the factory stenciling with the Opel brand and serial number. Now to figure out a way to replicate this. How cool???

Nice one! Indeed curious to the fit.

Small progress. Adding scratches. Matt coat applied.

1:32 DH.9a ‘Ninak’ Post War Wingnut Wings Catalogue # 32061 Available from Wingnut Wings for $119.00 with FREE worldwide delivery With this Post War Ninak the DH9 line is complete: Starting with the rather underpowered and somewhat ungainly AMC DH9 and followed by it’s impressive Liberty-engined DH.9a offspring. Actually the line-up would be even more complete if Wingnut Wings would release the earlier DH.4 as well. After all: many components (like the wings, fuselage structure, tail, etc..) comes from this predecessor. With it’s Rolls Royce engine and square nosejob it even looks more like the Dh.9a than the DH.9. One of the changes made between the DH.4 and DH.9 is moving the pilot more aft to enhance communication between the gunner and pilot. This was done by placing the oil tank in front of the pilot, giving the Ninak it’s long nose in the process. By the way: The word ‘Ninak’ comes from Nin = 9 and Ack = A. I can recommend the Windsock datafile 141, volume 2 which features a lot of inspirational interwar photographs. (Windsock Datafile 139 also offers some nice Post War Ninak photo's) In my reviews I like to compare releases when different versions of the same type are available, so when you are contemplating buying a DH.9, you’ll know where the differences can be found. Off course the differences between the DH.9 and DH.9a are obvious, but between the Wartime Ninak and Post War Ninak they are not. What I won’t do in this review is marvel at the quality of the injection moulded parts and detail. We all know what to expect of these kits and are never let down. First of all let’s take a look at the different release dates: • AMC DH.9 (kit number 32035): December 5th 2013 • DH.9a ‘Ninak’ (kit number 32007): December 2010 • DH.9a ‘Ninak’ Post war (kit number 32061): November 27th 2016 All 3 years apart. So who knows? By 2019 we’ll see the DH.4? J Check this link to see this (the only) restored flying DH.4. The kit As always we get a rather small box cramped with sprues. No space is wasted. While laying them out it becomes apparent that many parts won’t be used or that we get a lot of options here. Different engine covers, radiators, fuselage sides, exhaust stacks, etc… And then there’s a huge sheet with decals and ofcourse some PE. I will cover the assembly of this kit step by step and compare it to the earlier DH.9a. This will help you decide (apart from the schemes) which version to choose. Since I have already built the wartime version, I know what’s coming and where to be cautious. Sprue A (tail, fuselage frame, cockpit floor) Step 1 (Cockpit) Here we construct the basic cockpit elements. Control column, rudder bar, firewall, cockpit sidewalls… This step shows the exact same parts as the early version. Check this page from the Windsock Datafile 139 with a comparison of the Post war (top photo) and early Ninak cockpit arrangements: Step 2 (Cockpit continued) This is where we spot the first differences. The wartime version had older compass type 5/17 installed in the middle of the control panel. The post war version has several different options. The later compass pattern 253 mounted horizontally on the right side and the engine ignition switch for the Liberty engine on the left (instead of the right with the wartime version). This is also the part that lets you install the PE seatbelts. I always recommend using the HGW version. As they are the same for both versions I guess you could get the set for the wartime version for this kit. The next page shows a collection of walkaround photo’s from the cockpit and this page is the same for both versions. The rigging diagram for the cockpit is what follows and yes, this is also identical for both versions. Step 4 (Liberty V12 engine) Since both versions were powered by the same engine, it’s no surprise that these steps and parts are again identical. What does strike is that the post war version instructions do not carry photo’s of the real engine. The wartime version does. So if you want to see these, check the WNW website for them. Find them on page 8. Sprue E (Liberty Engine) Step 5 (fuselage) Here we go! What we see is that the post war version had upgraded stitchings on the side of the fuselage where linen is connected to the forward fuselage. Also: the footsteps on the right side of the fuselage need to be removed with a scalpel and are placed on the right side in the form of PE pieces. Sprue G (Fuselage): Optional creased or smooth linen sides. Above and below. Step 6 (fuselage continued) A few subtle changes can be found here. The first being the option for a few schemes to cut a hole in the upper rear deck for a storage locker, covered with PE. Another small detail is the option for the Aldis gunsight to be placed on the left side. This may have been on personal request by the pilot at hand. And last we see external cable fairings on the left side of the fuselage, whereas they run naked along the side on the wartime version. Step 7 (Radiator & Engine cowlings) There are a lot of different versions of the DH.9a cowlings. Those built by Mann and AMC on the early versions with their own small differences on the bulges on the radiator sides. And the ones’ built by Vulcan and Westland on the post war version. With the Vulcan built version showing black painted brackets, hinges and fairings. You can really tell a lot about the Ninak by just looking at it’s nose! When studying a Ninak photo, this is what to look at. Step 8 (Tailplane) Where the early version instruction really point out small differences in wire arrangements on the Mann and AMC version, the Post War version does not offer any options and keeps things simple! Step 9 + 10 (Wings and Struts) Where the lower wings and struts show no differences, the upper wings do. Scheme D (Berwick built Australian machine) features leading edge slats. These really add something to look at to the rather big, plain wings. Another interesting post war feature we see here is the auxiliary petrol tank. This would be a reason to opt for scheme A or B that wereflown over Iraq and had to cover great distances. Sprue B (Ailerons, wings) Sprue F (lower wings, fuselage bottom and prop) Step 11 (undercarriage) When looking at these parts the Post War version clearly had a reinforced undercarriage with added metal brackets and a split axle, possibly for extra suspension during take off and landings. Some Westland machines even had extra rigging wires, so again: check your references carefully! There are a couple of wheel cover options. When I go through the Windsock book I see a couple of schemes without wheel covers, revealing the spokes. These are not included, so when you want to show them, you’ll have to contact Steven Robson. Actually I see many photo’s of post war machines without covers… Sprue D x2 (wheels, struts, radiator) Don't forget to hollow out the exhaust stacks! Sprue J (Gear legs and wheels, instrument panel) These curly parts below are also not present on the early version. The are called 'screw down' and are connected to the wing end brackets. Step 12 (Details) Another striking addition to the post war machines is the huge auxiliary radiator. These were especially fitted on the middle eastern stationed machines and add a lot of character. Sprue C (Clear parts) Step 13 (Propellor and bombs) The post war machines offer a bigger choice of ordnance. Where the early machines lets you choice between 4 x 20lb Cooper bombs or 1 x 112lb bombs, the post war version gives you: • 4 x 20lb Cooper bombs • 1 x 112lb bomb • 2 x 112lb bombs • 1 x 230lb Mk.1 bomb • 2 x 230lb bombs Most of the DH.9a’s had covered propeller blades in a mid grey color. This saves you buying a real wooden prop for replacement or getting artistic with oil paints. J Sprue R x2 (Payload): Step 14 (Lewis Gun & Scarff Ring) This being a post war machine, mainly used in a ground attack role, the post war version offers the choice between a single Lewis gun. This can be assembled with or without the cooling jacket as reference dictates. The early war time machine however has the option of installing the cool double Lewis arrangement. The photo etch with the Scarff Ring and additional fuselage stitching: Step 15 (Final Assembly) The one detail I’d like to focus on here is the spare wheel. Where most (to no) early war time machines do not feature this, most post war machines (especially those operating in the middle east) do. You see them installed on the side of the nose or fuselage, on the underside (below the pilot or further to the rear). Like so: Or so: The decals look sweet and superbly registered as always. The only thing WNW decals need is enough Micro Sol: Schemes: A: DH.9a E9939, 8 Sqn RAF, Iraq, mid 1920s. This would be my choice! The auxiliary fuel tank and radiator and spare wheel slung under the fuselage with a lot of scope for wear and weathering. B: DH.9a H3510 'L', AC Jones-Williams & Benson, B flight, 8 Sqn RAF, Iraq, 1923 to 1924. Another cool option with a red tail, and like scheme A operated over Iraq, so with the same addition of cool details. C: DH.9a H3552, 39 Sqn RAF, UK, June-July 1923 This machine was used for flight training over Hendon. D = DH.9a A1-17, E Flight, 1 FTS RAAF, Australia, 1922 Black struts and optional leading edge slats. Flown for flight instructions over Australia by the Australian Flight Corps. This plane suffered a crash, so if that’s the diorama you have in mind, this might be your choice! E: Polikarpov R-1 'AMYPA', 19th Special Aviation Group, USSR, 1929 This is the Russian license built version of the DH.9a which saw action in the Soviet-Chinese conflict. Where the paintjob might be a bit un-interesting to the eye, the decals make up for it. Again a lot of opportunity for weathering. The Polikarpov machine also differs in the unique gun synchronizing system and the addition of an empty belt chute on the side of the forward firing gun. Verdict Post war (or interbellum) machines tend to be viewed as less sexy by modelers and I usually tend to agree. The schemes became more colorful, the weapons became less and the weathering options are narrow. However, in the case of the post war Ninak I think the machine became cooler. The middle eastern operations that demanded the most of the men and machines, the additions for long flights (radiator, fuel tank, reinforcements, bigger payload and extra fuel tank) add more character to the Ninak. Weathering may include the effects of superfluous sunlight, sand and drought. Having already built the earlier Ninak I can tell you that this seemingly complicated model is a breeze to build and stands on sturdy legs (not something you can say about every WW1 plane in 32nd scale). Yes, the quality of this kit is super, but this is no news. The RAF PC10 color has been replaced by Silver Dope, protecting the linen from sunlight. This is combination with the unpainted silver cowlings and black trimmings, make for quite an impressive plane that will stand out between the wartime subjects on your shelf. I love it. The finished article: A solid 9 out of 10. (This could have been a 10 if the Photo Etch included spoked discs for wheels without fabric cover.) My sincere thanks to Wingnut Wings for expanding the DH.9 family and for providing the review sample. Get your Post War Ninak here, before it too is sold out! Kind regards, Jeroen Peters

I have never seen these in our scale... Sorry..

Very enjoyable so far. Adding washes to the engine gondola: