Planet Models Yak-23

[npb748r]

she's on her legs (yet to be painted), this is not my best build but I'm doing something new and learning lots of new things after 5 decades of modelling !  I have been shocked at how heavy it is, I thought I overdid the nose weight by a country mile however it's just at that tipping point, if a bee landed on it's tail it will tail sit !

[HubertB]

One of my pet obsessions is to give models a proper weight sensation, that reflects the bulk of the original. I try, as much as I can, to have the model weight scale-proportional to the original. For instance, a 1/200 Titanic model should weigh 52 300 x 10^3 kgs / 200^3 = 6.5 kgs. (That’s 52 300 tonnes x 1000 - to get the weight in kgs- divided by 200 to the cube, as the density - weight/volume - is constant, whichever the size of the object).

In you case, the Yak should weigh between 60 (empty) and 103 grs (full load).

And yet another variable introduced in modelling 😂 !

Hubert

[Peterpools]

Hubert

Some mighty incredible math.

 

[HubertB]

8 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Hubert

Some mighty incredible math.

 

Thanks for the compliment, but it’s pretty basic arithmetics, once you grasp the concepts of volume relationship between the original and the kit, and of volumetric density.

Hubert

PS: to explain these concepts, let’s take a cube of 1x1x1 meter. Its volume is 1 cubic meter. If you fill it with water, you’ll get 1 cubic meter of water, or 1000 liters, and the water weight will be 1 metric tonne, or 1000 kilograms, as one liter of water weighs 1 kilogram. Water has a volumetric density of one, table oil of about 0.9, concrete of about 2.4, iron of 7.85.

Now, let’s design a 1/10 scale model of the said cube. It will be 10cmx10cmx10cm. its volume will thus be 10^3 (or 10x10x10) cubic centimeters. As water has a volumetric density of 1, 1 cubic centimeter of water weighs 1 gram, and our model filled with water will weigh 1000 grams, or 1 kilogram. The 1/10 scale cube of water weighs 1000 times less (or 1/10^3) than the original cube of 1 meter x 1 meter x 1 meter. QED (and end of thread drift)

 

[Peterpools]

Hubert

Thank you for the explanation and example. One of the areas I was responsible for in the building of custom gunite swimming pools was the water hydraulics for water features such as negative edges, cascades, spas and fountains and everything in between. In a way pretty much the same as to insure all the water features worked flawlessly, it all started with having the right amount of water when needed and the ability to flow at specific rates.

 

[Martinnfb]

[blackbetty]

[npb748r]

Hi all,

I made a really novice error right at the end of the build so the kit sits 100% built but 99% finished.  I got the painting sorted out, decals on, final coat of future before really light weathering, mainly panel lines darkened using a flory wash. Went to wipe the excess off once dried and it wouldn't come off. I think, because of the cold in the room I model in, that the future wasn't fully dried and the flory wash merged in with the future. It looks awful, so now sits at the back of a shelf. Resin experiment over, I'm back to IM kits at present. I would build another one if the subject was right for me, I learnt a few things along the way but I guess I'm a creature of habit, I like working with IM, I know what I'm doing and I know what to avoid where I have skill weaknesses. Anyway, some pictures pre and post my error......... 

[Peterpools]

Yikes, that terrible. Any chance of a light sanding will remove the stains? With all the work done so perfectly, I would strip her back to bare plastic and start the painting procedure over - just way to much good work to sit at the back of the shelf. 

I've stripped more models then I care to remember.

 

 

[blackbetty]

wipe the future off with some windex (or ajax in Europe)

[HubertB]

Yes, like Karl suggested, Future will disappear with an ammonia-based cleaner...

And, by-the-way, the effect of the washes was not bad everywhere. It produced an interesting effect on the fuselage and wings, but, I agree, looks bad on the elevators.

Hubert

[npb748r]

1 hour ago, blackbetty said:

(or ajax in Europe)

I'll give that a go, haven't seen or used ajax for years so even if it's just for nostalgia purposes it's worth a try - thanks.

[DocRob]

I'm a little late, entering the party, but really like your work with the Yak. These quirky looking early jets have their charms. Besides the wash accident, everything came together very nice and I'm with Hubert. You spent too much fine work to not have a try at cleaning the mess off.

Cheers Rob

[GusMac]

14 hours ago, npb748r said:

I'll give that a go, haven't seen or used ajax for years so even if it's just for nostalgia purposes it's worth a try - thanks.

I think it's Windolene in the UK.  Ajax here was a powder abrasive cleaner from memory.

[npb748r]

11 hours ago, GusMac said:

I think it's Windolene in the UK.  Ajax here was a powder abrasive cleaner from memory.

I was thinking Ajax as the powder cleaner. Will try Windolene, I suspect Ajax will do the job but less subtly 😁  

[GazzaS]

22 hours ago, npb748r said:

I was thinking Ajax as the powder cleaner. Will try Windolene, I suspect Ajax will do the job but less subtly 😁  

Ammonia based glass cleaner!  Please don;t use anything abrasive.  Great looking build.  I used those kinds of washes once...   never again.  Oil paint is more controllable.

[PanzerWomble]

Yes Flory washes ......we've all tried them ...when they are nice they can be very nice ...and when the go wrong they kill NMF and decals very quickly😀

I like dirty birds so have passed off the hit and miss results as heavy petting weathering . 

Good that you persevered though.....unless I really CBA ... I like trying something new as often as I can . I thinks it's all part of the hobby , even failures teach something .