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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

Tamiya 1/32nd De Havilland Mosquito


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Hi guys - first post here, once I'd found this forum a few months ago (via the Lancaster model)

I've decided I like the big stuff, so I hope you will forgive me for dropping these big threads on here in one go, and apologies if you have seen them elsewhere, I have cut n' pasted them here just for this and the Spitfire I did... hopefully I can start contributing new builds from now on...

I have just finished this model - the majority was done on a table in NYC while I worked over there, and I started it in 2015 when the kit was quite new -  but only just finished it after I returned to the UK. So this is going to look as if I have started and finished this really quickly - but I haven't! :)

I suspect this model has had a lot of WIP - so I hope another one is ok! Best way to get advice on techniques etc...the skill level on these forums is incredible...

Same story as many on here I am sure - used to make models as a kid, getting back into it 35 years later! I have done a few F1 cars, but I wanted to do a plane to learn about weathering etc - so I chose this one as my first plane kit. 

I love this plane, and once I saw a few reviews and pictures of the kit, I thought I'd give it a go...splashed out and give it a go!

Going for the Operation Jericho version - incredible story.

Hope you enjoy, 

cheers, Angus

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It's a lovely kit - with a LOT of parts!!

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Some nice historical booklets included, different paint schemes etc...

Small number of PE details.

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Everything goes together very accurately. Fit is superb.

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Love the ease that this green goes on - test fit of sub-assemblies (seats, instrument panel etc)

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I've worked on all the 'interior' elements of the main fusalage, again test fitting elements...

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I decided to try weathering on this kit - inspired by some of the stuff on this website. It is something I want to try on some of my F1 models (and others) in the future, so figured this would be a good place to try.

I'm learning - so forgive the fact that this may look heavy handed compared to the masters on here!

I only learnt some tips after starting (like using different paint medium when using washes, or using various clear coat layers - gloss/matt - to facilitate weathering washes etc etc...so I have tried a few things, and re-started on a few parts - but overall I'm pretty chuffed with how it has ended up - so far!!

So these are early stages:

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In the picture above I had used an acrylic wash on acrylic - this of course dried very quickly, so I was unable to 'wipe off' excess...now I know about using a gloss layer, then using a matt layer after....

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Adding detail...

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Much has been written about the PE, decals and clear lenses of the instrument panel on this kit - as this is my first plane model, I cannot compare - but it looks superb!

Test fitting:

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I tried holding the airbrush a little distance away from the PE parts when I sprayed them to simulate a 'crackle' type finish (or at least not full-gloss)

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So - intention was to make this entirely OOB, but I had seen people using Eduard harnesses in models, so I found some of these.

Started to use them - and their tiny PE parts, but just wasn't getting on with them.

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Grain of rice for scale!

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It was only after posting a picture on another forum that someone pointed out that I had not removed the paper backing from these fabric belts - doh! Lesson learnt - but I actually preferred the PE ones from the kit, so after annealing them over a flame, I stuck with these....

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Not weathered yet...

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And that is where I have got to with the cockpit so far - still a few bits and pieces to add.

I have moved on to another sub-assembly - the Merlin engines.

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Again, everything goes together beautifully - no fettling required.

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I also started to give these a little bit of weathering...

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...and that is where I have got to so far. Hope it isn't too many pictures.

Next stage is starting the wing central core that the main fuselage fits to, with more internal bay details.

Really enjoying this kit - it really does go together amazingly, and I shall certainly tackle the 1/32nd Spitfire.

Dream would be a 1/32nd Lancaster....

Will add more when I get some done!

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..at this point a year passes in the build - we are May 2017 now!! I'd discovered Eduard detail parts....

Riiiiiight.

Been a slight delay in this one - lol.

I moved to the MFH F1 cars, and having 99.9% finished the BT52b, I'm going back to this one for the variety.

I also want to learn about weathering, and the F1 cars don't really have much of this!

The military models tend to, and the skills you see here and elsewhere are staggering - I've also got a tractor to work on for 'mud'!

I want to learn about and start using oils - as I will need these skills on the older F1 car models - chassis of Alfa 159 for example...

So over a year ago when I started this, I had done some weathering on the cockpit - as a first attempt I was pretty pleased, but you learn a lot in a year and I want to improve...

I have also purchased the Eduard detail kits - front guns, belly guns, interior and exterior PE sheets and some engines are on there way. The Tamiya kit detail is still stunning - but I want to try stuff, and go even more detailed. That being said, I will also do some very basic scratch building - TBH mainly just with wiring etc.

So, I got back on this kit at the weekend. I cant use all the Eduard PE stuff in the cockpit without starting again, but I have used selectively. This has involved a little bit of a dismantle, but it came apart easily enough. I also need to try and 'match' what I have already done. In hindsight I think what I had done a year ago turned out a bit dark and messy - I want to tidy that up a bit, and managed to over-spray a little green over some grubby bits so I could start again...

I'm going for the used look though - so I am committing to weathering the exterior of the plane, which will certainly be a challenge - a lot of surface area.

I'm confident I can do the engines and engineering stuff nicely, having done a few F1 engines...

So - with all that said, on to the photos.

I started by breaking the main elements apart.

 

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I'm happy with the basic weathering here - but I got annoying silver sparkles from using some tamiya weathering stuff - that is basically eye make-up! I'll be getting rid of that with careful touching up.

 

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Some of the 'old' stuff looks a bit 'muddy' so will also tone that down.

 

Of course, almost none of this will be visible once closed up - but when you have fitted a head gasket and moving pistons into an MFH Mp4/4 Honda engine, and then sealed it all up in a stationary model, that doesn't matter - the detail is still there ! :)

 

So - this bulkhead is a major swap out - the grey one is from the Eduard nose gun kit - it has a bit more detail, and the upper fitttings for the ammo-boxes molded in, so I will use this. Only real pain is 2 yellow decals on the other side - I'll have to mask and paint these on the 'new' bit - don;t have a circle cutter so will come back to those with some fine scalpel work!

 

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Location of bulkhead...

 

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There are 4 ammo boxes in the nose - one molding in the Tamiya kit. These are separate in the Eduard kit. I painted these and picked out the detail with oil paint - thinned and painted on, wiped off with cotton buds and thinners - early days but I am liking it - more detail later.

 

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These are just 'clipped' (very precise this Eduard stuff) into place - lots of PE straps and chains to add to each one...

 

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Comparison shot with the Tamiya part...

 

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Whilst there are some decals and detail missing on the Tamiya bits, you can clearly see the difference in the Eduard versions...

 

One of the biggest improvements in using the Eduard internal PE set are the foot pedals - old shot below shows the Tamiya version...

 

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New versions - obviously much finer, but a bugger to make straight...

 

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You can see the updated versions below...

 

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Nothing finished here by the way...nothing fixed yet!

 

On the older pictures earlier on this WIP, you can see where I had used Tamiya panel line colour to bring out detail - but inexperience meant I had not used a gloss layer first, and it all looked  a bit messy...now I have watched a few vids (highly recommend PLASTO on youtube) I feel I can try oils with a bit more confidence.

 

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I tried the panel gap first, but concluded this is great for fine detail, but not flatter areas - when I wiped the excess off using thinners, it wiped it all off on this sort of smoother detail.

So I took the step into oils - thinned down loads, painted on, then taken off with cotton buds - I'm a convert. It will take time and practice, but I can see the potential.

 

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...for sure this commits me to the grubby used look, but that's cool....

 

Mid-rub...

 

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Here you can see some of the Eduard PE parts fitted to the front of Tamiya components...

 

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In the shot below you can see where I have painted some of the round discs again to vary the tone (tip from someone elses WIP) - I believe that these are wooden discs that were fixed to the frame/skin and provided mounting points for fixing instruments and fittings too...

 

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This is a similar part pre-oil. The fittings and instruments are Eduard - more later. Yellow wire is Tamiya molding - I may replace with 'real' cable...

 

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Some more Eduard parts (the PE) with the Tamiya part also shown...

 

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Most of the internal detail kit from Eduard is instrument panel - you cut the molded detail off the front of the tamiya parts and glue the PE on - I'll leave the main instrument panel, as it is not bad and hard to replace - but there are lots of ancillary radios, boxes, batteries etc that I can upgrade. Many of the panels use multiple layers of PE to make them more '3D'...

 

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In this shot you can see the rear of the instrument panel. It will be hidden...but damn it I am tempted to add some wiring...grrr!

 

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So that is where I am now - I 'oiled' a few more green bits and hope to carry on a little bit quicker now!

 

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Right - bit more time on this again.

I discovered and decided to try the Eduard accessories - don't think these were out when I originally bought the kit at launch...so I have the gun detail kits and the engine sets...

Although I had started the engines from the kit, I wanted to try these.

Super sharp detail, so I am going to max these out with wires and cables etc etc...

 

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Many pages in the instruction booklet - covers each engine separately as they are slightly different, hence double the sheets.

Like many 3D printed kits, the pipes in this are well supported - so lots of very careful cutting out and trimming required. The plastic is hard enough that this is not too big a deal - not like the plastic and tiny parts on the D7 'dozer kit I have started, that break if you look at them.

 

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Lots of bags of bits, a small PE sheet (x2)

The kit includes the engine pod panels as well - these are very thin and nicely detailed...

 

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I also bought this magazine, which actually features a Merlin engine (Spitfire) amongst others, so is a great source.

 

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o made a start on the first engine (I think I will do one at a time and learn!)

 

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Detail really is nice - I have some shots comparing the ones from the kit that I had started, and you can see the clear difference (there should be - this engine kit is not cheap!) - a bit hard to make out detail on the gloss black engine (it was ready to be weathered)

 

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Lots of rather thin framework and piping in the kit that has to be trimmed away from carriers - they actually come off quite well, and are not that hard to clean off - I found scraping with a blade pretty effective...

 

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PE parts included...

 

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I painted the main block - kept re-touching as I went, adding parts etc...

 

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Don't fit this PE part at this point - I was too early and had to remove later for clearance....doh!

 

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I used my trusty metallic pens for details and highlights,,,

 

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I painted and added some wiring to these engine frame parts before fitting to the block...

 

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I've also started with some light weathering, as learning that is one of the reasons for this project (F1 cars tend to be pretty clean) - I am learning as I go so trying lots of things - oil wash, tamiya panel wash, pencils etc etc -

 

The copper metallic pens are great for this - really smooth and no visible 'flake'...

 

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Also the first time using 'lead' for the wires - so much easier to shape and form, without putting any strain on anything (unlike trying to bend solid wire) - usual battle trying to identify where the wire it shows you to fix at stage 12 actually disappears to!!

 

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Although black here, I painted these pipes a dark grey later on...

 

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That is one engine structurally complete - I'll go back over it all and tidy up finishes etc, and add some more wiring, before trying it in the Tamiya kit wing (which I have not started yet) - I was going to build the other engine 'OBB' to compare, but I will now just build the detail version (like this) for the model. Maybe I will build the Tamiya verison for display next to the finished plane - or perhaps the other way round - mount the super detailed version on a 'trolley' - choices!

 

Because I keep coming back to this model after long breaks, I am learning techniques elsewhere that I want to apply here, so I am re-visiting other elements and re-doing some finishes etc - particularly the cockpit (actually, that is all I have completed!) -

 

Gun detail kits next!!

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I'm going to build the Tamiya engines and guns OOB as well to compare - seems a shame to waste the kit parts. Also have different display options then as well...

 

Extensive use of my metallic pens for these parts...

 

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Silver, bronze and some black wash to pick out the detail.

 

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As before, I'm touching up as I go...and revisiting parts after completion.

 

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Went together pretty easily - this module will benefit from some fine chipping I think - very much learning the weathering game...at the moment it is all shiny until I dull it down later...

 

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Note the PE parts on the ends of the guns - these come with the tamiya kit as a way to align everything whilst gluing - a nice touch.

 

I'm aware that it is very easy to over-do the weathering effects and general grubbiness of these models, so I am experimenting a bit at the moment...these may be too dirty...

Nose cone guns...

 

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Nice brass bits but a bugger to align!

 

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I'm re-visiting the cockpit area a little as well, to try and match earlier finished with ones I have learnt about more recently...

 

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Nose guns...

 

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There is an alignment issue here - sorted later...

 

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Added some more PE details to the ammo boxes - the chains. Not at all tiny!!! Also matched the 'weathering' a bit better as I updat emy techniques...

 

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Back to the engines, and some of the engine nacelle panels. These are a silver finish (I assume aluminium) - I found the Tamiya dull ali and bit sparkly, so I chose to use the Alclad version, which is much 'smoother'. Unlike most bits, I primed these so ensure and even tint. Some nice PE parts (ribs) in these sections...

 

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I used a combination of oils and black panel wash to give a 'used' oily look. The panel wash marks the 'edges' well, the oil is good for the 'flat' bits in between. I am liking the oils, I'll keep working ont the skills for these...

 

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Response to a question about what metallic pens I was using:

Nothing special - just put 'metallic' pens into Amazon or ebay. You get sets of 10 or so for less than $5 - I have got a few sets as each have slightly different tips, or shades....some are 'softer', some are more 'pointy' or more 'silver'...but so easy to use for detail stuff - and quicker and cleaner as well.

If you haven't tried them, those 'Molotiv' (spelling!) silver pens are also incredible for chrome....

 

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ome more PE parts found in the Eduard set - various panel details...

 

 

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Tonal work with oils - I had mixed the colour, but needed it with more red so used red oil paint brushed over.

 

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In hind-sight I was about to try some of those 'dry' decals on these two tanks....I should have done that before I used any oils or panel wash on the parts, as there was some reaction with various fluids.

 

The decals I am talking about are the ones that you 'soak' on to the model for a few hours, and then you can totally remove the clear support layer that you can often see (silvering etc) -

 

Attaching PE straps...

 

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These are the decals - in these shots I am trying to show the very very thin clear layer that I am very carefully peeling off - biggest pain is actually finding the 'edge' to peel without scratching the paint...because I had already applied oil, the clear film removed some of this 'weathering' - so defeating the object of the exercise, but as these parts are well hidden, I'll live with it and learn!

 

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Similarly, some of the decals cracked and peeled off - it's fine, the parts are well worn!!

 

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You can clearly see the decal carrier lifting off the oil finish I had applied - should have done decals first...

 

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Wing taking shape - screws hold the ends to the central section - it is super stiff and very even and well-fitting...

 

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Magnets are used to hold some of the very thin panel in place...

 

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Couldn't resist...

 

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Nothing actually attached yet...

 

One of the biggest learning curves is knowing at what point to paint something - before assembly or after - you kinda have to imagine how complicated any masking is going to be!!

 

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More tiny straps - 3 parts!

 

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Wing top panels going on - again, a precision fit...

 

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This is a wing insert, and I'm showing how I get the 'oily/grubby' look, which is all new to me - so learning!

 

I had sprayed the part with alclad aluminium and I have now brushed on an oil paint wash. I have already found that it gives more control than the Tamiya panel wash - which is much thinner and great for picking out....panel lines!

 

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I then use a cotton bud to wipe off the excess (obviously access is important here) and I quite like the finish it gives - it takes the shine of the ali finish (used/in service) and picks out details nicely.

 

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And in situ...

 

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Next bit of weathering learning was the wheels - I wanted the muddy look so tried my hand at using some pigments - I had bought some MIG products - scraped pastel would also work I am sure...

 

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Brush with some water, dab on...

 

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It dries to dust, and I clumped it a bit around the 'bottom' of the tyre (where a flat spot is already moulded) - you can see 'dabs' here on the side wall, which I removed as I went - first time I have used the pigments. But pleased with the results - filled the tyre tread and then cleaned off the top surface.

 

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It dries to dust very quickly, and of course it rubs off, so I 'sealed' with some matt finish spray...

 

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It looked like I had lost the effect, but as soon as it dried it came back...

 

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A few 'general' pictures as I pretend to join the parts together - nothing fixed, just trying them out...

 

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I think I'm going t have to fit some internal lights!!

 

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At least the plane has a large cockpit glass....

 

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Testament to the Tamiya kit and the Eduard Merlin extra parts - all the pipes will line up perfectly when I come round to fixing everything together...

 

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I certainly need to do some work on the top of the engines - looking very bland here, but yet to pick out the various leads etc...

 

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Tonights job - having a bit of a tidy!!

 

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Small update. I'm this close to closing up the fuselage and losing all that lovely detail -have sent my light box back to the UK, so still figuring out best way to get some good pics before I commit...

Here are some detail pics - anything PE in these shots is the PE set from Eduard. As I am using their kits for the guns and engines, I have the Tamiya kit ones as 'extras' so I am building those anyway - either to display or compare. So the front gun ammo boxes below are the Tamiya kit versions, with extra Eduard PE added (the bronze colour bits) if that makes sense.

Right now the decision to be made is when to paint the camo green onto the model - I'd like to paint the wings now, before they have engines fitted and before they are joined to the fuselage - and also paint the fuselage before everything is joined together, but wondering if it is best to assemble everything first...

 

Paint has gone on well so far - I think this is the primer - Tamiya Fine Surface Primer from a can. I am also using Tamiya enamel sprays for the top coats, as recommended in the kit.

 

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Tidying didn't happen...

 

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I want to paint this as is, rather than assembled onto the fuselage....

 

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Tamiya kit gun ammo boxes - with Eduard PE parts added - note the straight chains...

 

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Same chains bent into loops...

 

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Nice mudguard PE gives a more realistic scale thickness than the plastic version in the kit - but once again, the kit one is still pretty damn good.

 

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Front hatch with PE added (I had sprayed 'anything green' when I first started, so some will require spraying again as I add parts - as I said, first time!!)

 

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Not fixed yet...

 

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Oil paint finish...

 

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Some more detail shots of little bits - tail wheel, radios etc...

 

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Pre-muck. Love the shape of that casting...

 

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Seriously considering lighting the interior!!

 

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Time to get some colour going...

Thought I'd try this on the smaller part - the tail plane!

Trying the 'rolled up blu-tac' method of getting a soft line. I thought about freehand airbrush, but maybe next time...

 

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I really should try these things out on scraps etc - but I seem to be impatient!

 

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Well that was easy! Dark Green Tamiya from a can. Seems very 'rich'...

 

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Quite happy with the result - a little bit fuzzy near the edges, but I think that is ok. A bit 'dotty'..

 

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So these are the 'wet' decals I am trying. No carrier film left behind, so look better apparently. Learning from error on the tanks under the fuselage where I added the decal after I had used some oil paint, which was affected by the process.

 

Using Mr Mark Setter as recommended by the manufacturer (HGW) - You apply as normal, but leave to set and dry for a good few hours - over night is best, then you peel off the top film.

 

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You can see the top film as it all dries - this will be peeled off....

 

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Like so....

 

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Left with film, right without...

 

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It works well - there was still a little residue around where the film had been, and marks caused by the Mr Mark setter - I cleaned this off with warm water and cotton bud, but it has not entirely gone. Luckily, when I then applied some tamiya clear the marks seemed to go...

 

So now to the wings - I was showing these with the flaps in the down position (Tamiya gives you the option, and different parts are used for up/down) but I don't like that big slot  (however accurate) and prefer the purity of line with them up - so  last minute change led me to gluing the flaps up/level.

 

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I have also sprayed the panels and cowlings that join onto the top surface of the wing structure, so I can add the green camo in the same way as above...

 

The fuselage also needs priming and painting - so have attached a few of the parts. I am gluing the nose cone on, but the hatch over the gun is removable, the cockpit hatch removable as well - but I placed these in position to spray to ensure an even finish (and even camo pattern)

I am pretty impressed with how well all these panels as the front come together with minimal gaps, I have to say.

 

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And then the most annoying thing - primed the fuselage, and then painted the top coat - can ran out - just at the start of a holiday period. Won't get another until about Wednesday! I wanted to paint and finish the fuselage this weekend, but not now...oh well, plenty of other bits to build. Like the starboard engine!

 

So while waiting for the spray can to arrive, I started work on the wing. The 'blu tac' thing worked, but I rolled slightly thinner pieces to get a slightly finer shade-line at the edges.

 

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I taped the separate engine cover panel and rear section in to place, where they also had the camo touching them, so everything lined up.

 

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Success!

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These panels are just in place for spraying the green...

 

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Now it was time to put the decals on the wing. I used the HGW wet decals again...

 

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The blue sheet are the wet decals - the white sheet is the Tamiya one. At least it meant I had spares!

 

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Had issues here with the normal tamiya decals, which I needed to use for the roundels. I was getting spots on the decal - seems I just needed to not let drops settle, as it was marking the decal. Someone said that I was using the wrong decal solution for Tamiya decals, someone else said use My Mark setter, which I did....luckily later application of clear seemed to disguise the marks....these were NOT air bubbles (as everyone on the forum insisted!)

 

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Annoyingly, this was the one wet decal from HGW that I did not use - the one with the largest area of clear carrier on the normal decals. The HGW one was misaligned on the sheet, with the white under the red showing slightly - and worse, it was slightly wide and smudged, so it hung over the edge. So in this picture you see the kit-supplied tamiya decal. This set with no problems - phew, again!

 

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So some of you may have noticed that I did not do any pre-shading on these surfaces. Two reasons - I didn't want to use the airbrush to do this , but rather wanted to use the oil paint method on top of the paint instead. It gave me more chances (you can wipe off and start again) and freedom. Secondly, with a mainly wooden construction there are few areas with visible ribs underneath the skin.

I figured I'd try the smallest part first - the tail plane. Deep breath, and cover the whole lot with very thinned black oil paint - ooh, after first spraying some clear - I used tamiya from a can.

 

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....and then simply wipe off. I made sure to wipe in the direction of the airflow, so any marks would be 'streaks'...

Now this is all very subjective, and over the next few hours I changed methods, learnt and developed - so the order of events got a bit mixed up. I used panel gap black to highlight areas, but i was then wiping this back out again as I worked the oil, so I need to tweak my methods going forward - but using the always-wet oil gave me the ability to 'play' and learn.

NOTE: my Mosquito is grubby and oily, so the back worked well - but any excess is easily removed with (odor-less) thinners.

 

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Oiled on the left...

 

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Pretty chuffed with first attempt! You need to be REALLY careful about finger prints, as the oil paint is never 'dry' so marks - but you can brush them out with a soft dry brush, re-apply oil etc etc

 

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Then it was the top surface - same process...

 

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To 'fix' the finish I used 'flat' tamiya clear from the can. I tried something else first, but was not happy with how it went on - it was 'rough' and will be a bugger to get off and try again - I used the fin for that (later)

 

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Was VERY pleased with how this looked once dry...

 

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On the pic above you can see my oil ribbing shading - more detail on that in the wing pictures...but basically I did this...

 

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...and wiped off, dry brushed, experimented etc - and removed some oil paint 'between' the rivet lines to lighten the shade....I lucked out for the first attempt :)

 

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Very similar method on the fin - I even tried lightening the grey between the ribs with white oil, and it does work...

 

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I cocked this part up with a different flat varnish - hopefully I can remove without damaging the decals. (not shown here)

 

So - I had my method - now it was the wings...much bigger! I did each side, top and bottom surface, separately...so I had somewhere to hold!

 

Scary moment...

 

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And wiped....

 

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I highlighted rivets and brushed gently  - always thinking of airflow...

 

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...and again highlighted any ribs or rivets on the metal control surfaces.

 

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Very slight mottling caused by flat clear application - but in reality this is a close zoom - don't see it really.

 

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Example of thinking about airflow - this streak around the curved top surface was blended in to give a hint of exhaust and rubbish coming back from the prop...

 

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Ribs below the rivet lines...

 

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Finished on the right...

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...now left!

 

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Daylight!

 

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Just got to make the other side look the same now!

Spray can arrived, so it was on with getting the camo sorted on the fuselage - that was holding me up!

I popped the half-weathered wings in place so I could line up the camo, and proceeded with the blue-tac method again....

 

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I admit I rushed this a bit so I could let everything set over night, so a tiny bit of over-spray - but that will 't-cut out' :)

 

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I like the finish that  the tamiya flat clear has given the model...you can see the difference in the green particularly...

 

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Couldn't resist adding various bits....

 

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Hoping to get quite a bit done this weekend....got to apply all the decals to the fuselage, weather the left port wing and fuselage and assemble the bits.

Small matter of building another Merlin engine as well....

Getting excited for how this is turning out....

Fuselage...applied all the smaller wet decals, now it was the 'normal' the big decals from the kit...

 

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Once the decals were on and sealed, it was time to weather - I used the same method I had used with the wings etc - flood with diluted oils and wipe off - was a bit nervous about that bit, as the streaks would all have to be 'in line' with the airflow - the wings were easy as it was simply 'front to back', but the fuselage is a bit more 3D...once I had figured out how to hold it without touching anywhere, it went surprisingly easily. I am aware this only works for a grubby plane! Sealed with matt clear and I'm pleased. I will now do a bit more work locally' once more is assembled (nothing is fixed in these pictures)

 

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Starting to assemble the various parts now...

 

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***TIP IF YOU ARE BUILDING THIS KIT***

Note the silver collars on the end of the outer gun barrels of the belly gun. These barrels disappear into the body work under the cockpit, and are visible as the ends of the gun barrels on the underside of the plane - but the visible parts are a separate part in the kit - no point in extending huge barrels under the cockpit. That is why these gun barrels are tapered - it is so they can be easily threaded into the fuselage and hidden. The silver collars butt up to the bulkhead. As molded and glued (they slip over the ends), they are too close to the ends of the barrels and prevent the gun assembly from sitting properly. I ended up cracking them off as you cannot see them in situ. Now these are Eduard parts, but I thing I recall reading that the same happens with the Tamiya bits, in that book you can buy about building the kit.

 

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It could be that I could have pushed my collars on further before gluing?

 

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Bomb rack fitted...

 

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This little panel covers the radiators.

 

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They are held on by the magnets you can see in the shot below - very neat (you glue two small PE flats into the panel underside)

 

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Now fitting the fuselage sides that are under the wing structure, and line the bomb/gun bay sides...

 

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Also fitting the hydraulic struts that open/close the doors...

 

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More pics - sorry, I'm using this as a ref. for myself as well....

 

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I'm learning about the aircraft here as well - wondered what the silver blocks were in the bomb bay doors - now I have fitted them I see that when closed they fit directly over the guns and allow spent shells to eject out of the aircraft...

 

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Lights below are Molotow marker with clear tamiya color dropped in...

 

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Silver panels around the exhausts on the side panels...

 

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All this detail on the front of the Merlin is about to disappear...

 

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Method for grubbiness...

 

Cover in diluted oil paint...

 

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Wipe off! (in direction of airflow (or gravity)

 

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I like the way the oil gets left behind around features - just like in 'real' life...

 

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Undercarriage assembly...

 

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Note the piece at the top of the struts that Tamiya supply in order to keep everything lined up during assembly...

 

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Cockpit hatch (gloss before weathering)

 

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Can't resist test assembling - but it is always night time when I get to this stage!

 

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Saying goodbye to this view as I attach undercarriage doors...

 

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Can't put it off anymore - I have to build the other engine so I can fit the other side together!

 

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(That nose panel is not in place)

 

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Molotow markers are chrome pens that are incredible for recreating ....chrome! Or mirrors. I used them to fill the lights before adding the red/green lenses.

People are using them for chrome trim on car models, engine details etc - they are amazing....

Amazon link:

http://a.co/gPHitlk

 

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Right - built the 'kit' engine now - as supplied in the Tamiya box - this one will be hidden by the panels, so don't need the full detail, but I thought it would be good to compare the Tamiya Merlin and the Eduard one, which will be on show. The tamiya one is still superb...\

 

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Tamiya tell you to leave that bit of sprue (bottom frame) on while you are building - I forgot on the top one!

 

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You won't see any of this, but I'll still make it look nice :)

 

Joined with the previously prepared parts - all fits perfectly...

 

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So now she can finally sit on here 3 wheels!!

 

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Still gotta do exhausts...but panels will fit nicely...

 

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Lots of stuff to work on obviously, but last big job is the canopy - a part that received universal praise in the reviews when the kit first came out....

 

I made the bomb bay gun that comes in the kit - the Eduard one is in the model...

 

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Canopy - multi-level this one - after masking, you spray the interior colour on the outside, so it shows through, then the outer colour over the top of that! Throw some PE inside as well, and it looks amazing - with an interior framework also built onto the model...

 

Tamiya supplies masks, but not die-cut which is a pain - Eduard do...

 

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I used the tamiya ones to fill in the centers left by the Eduard ones - if that makes sense!

 

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'Inner' color - cockpit green...

 

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Followed by outer colour...

 

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Some of the camo green goes over the cockpit...making sure it lines up!

 

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Had to weather the visible strips!

 

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Slight seeping removed with Windex on an cotton bud...

 

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Now the frame...

 

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Dipped into Future/Pledge to clean off the canopy - worked a treat...

 

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Eduard extra PE set has a nice frame for inside the canopy...

 

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Tiny PE parts within...

 

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Dry decal on the top (with film on in this shot)

 

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Just placed in to position, so not seated properly...

 

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Right - bit of a break now - I'm relocating back to the UK, so all this has to be packed up for a few weeks - no idea how - then I can finish and photograph properly - so close to the finish as well!!

 

Back soon....!

cheers

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That pretty much brings us up to now, where I finished the kit a few days ago - so a few more stages here...looking back as I post these in one evening, it is nice to see a progression in what I was learning - early weathering looked a little 'dirty' but I think I managed to take it back a bit - probably still a little grubby for some....!

So, where was I - the Mossie made it back from New York ok, but has been sat waiting for the final touches - fitting the canopy, tail fin, exhausts, props & final weathering touch ups etc....and some crew! I'd left it too late to add any crew into the cockpit (I wanted everything visible and not blocked - of course, once closed up you can't see anything anyway) - but there is a pilot posed to climb the ladder into the cockpit, so I may well use him. Never having painted any figures, I painted all of them while I did the 1/24 Spit pilot.

 

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First layers of colour...now adding some depth. Gloss will be removed at the end (matt)

 

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At this point I took some new shots in the photo cube...just testing!

 

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Engines have no detail paint at this point - or exhausts...

 

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Also got a few shots of things that will soon disappear!

 

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Gonna start a finished thread, but here is a preview!

 

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Welcome aboard! 

I haven't actually see too many Mossies built. I've done the Tamiya and HK ones and have another Tamiya to convert to a Tse Tse. Yours has come out really nicely. 

How did you find it compared to building the MFH Mclaren? 

As for your user name, here's my Tamiya Seven from a couple years ago. 

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Carl

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Welcome to the Forums, Angus!

I spent a half hour trying to place my lower jaw back on my face. I was blown away by your level of detail on this build. Stunning work!

You’ll love it here, we’re all laid back and easy going.  Now you gotta get a Lanc and start building.. hehe

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