DocRob Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 41 minutes ago, HubertB said: No. But I had bought one for my SW kits Obrigado, I just asked, because there is a Youtube unboxing video showing the special edition with a Yahu IP included. Cheers Rob 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 9, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 9, 2020 6 hours ago, DocRob said: Obrigado, I just asked, because there is a Youtube unboxing video showing the special edition with a Yahu IP included. Cheers Rob quite honestly Rob, other than as a time saver, I don't think you'd even need the Yahu panel. It goes together quite nicely as is. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HubertB Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 I believe I’ll have to put your word to test, Ernie. I just can’t fathom in which drawer or box I put my Yahu IP 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 9, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 9, 2020 17 minutes ago, HubertB said: I believe I’ll have to put your word to test, Ernie. I just can’t fathom in which drawer or box I put my Yahu IP I have one for my Silver Wings kit. I'm keeping it for that. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 9, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 9, 2020 I'm going to use the Master barrel kit for my second build. It has the brass venturi tube, which to me is worth the price in itself. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 10, 2020 Share Posted April 10, 2020 19 hours ago, Clunkmeister said: I'm going to use the Master barrel kit for my second build. It has the brass venturi tube, which to me is worth the price in itself. Maybe you can give us a rundown on what parts you think should be replaced? By the way, have you seen the whole mess of new resin parts that popped up on eBay for this plane? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 10, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 10, 2020 17 minutes ago, 1to1scale said: Maybe you can give us a rundown on what parts you think should be replaced? By the way, have you seen the whole mess of new resin parts that popped up on eBay for this plane? Mark, I'd say there are only a couple things that i'd certyainly change. And even at that, it's really up to the builder and where you want to go with it, because it presents well OOB. 1. Gun Barrels They are prominent on this plane. Plastic parts are OK and you need to drill the muzzles, but the barrels have slotted cooling shrouds over them, and those never represent well in plastic. Use the Master Barrel Kit. 2. Venturi Tube. The hourglass venturi tube on the side of the fuselage is pretty much universal on smaller aircraft from the 1930s through to the 1950s. That's one of those parts that's not able to be well represented in plastic without much work. Definitely AM and the Master Barrel set has one in it. 3. Seatbelts. Like all PE belts, I personally detest even the best of them. I used them here for this OOB build, but I'd go HGW, RB, or any good quality textile belt. I'm sure there's plenty people can change, but in my opinion, the rest of the kit is of the highest quality, and of the highest useability 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 11, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 11, 2020 Excuse me, but I’ve turned brown. Too long in the sun. I really, really like the classic look of an uncowled racial.... 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1to1scale Posted April 11, 2020 Share Posted April 11, 2020 4 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said: Excuse me, but I’ve turned brown. I love it! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 12, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 12, 2020 Alright, time for an update, folks. I’ve made a few little mistaakes here and there, but all were minor and just simple builder errors. Nothing remarkable, just all fixable things like forgetting to drill the holes for the spent brass ejectors. The ejector chutes are solid. They need to be hollow, so for my next build I’ll either hollow the ends or buy AM somewhere. A word. I looked on eBay and there are multiple AM pieces being issued for the P.11, so I expect this is going to be one VERY popular kit around the world. This kit really doesn’t need much AM. Resin engines, nosecones, wheels etc are all available, but the kit parts are truly superb OOB. Techmod supplies the kit decals, (makes sense), and as is usually the case with Techmod, the decals are superb. Very, very thin, and they stick like glue. They are impossible to “float” into position, so make sure you get them in place quickly. A bit of dish soap in the water helps the decals ease into position a bit easier. I decided to decal the bottom of the wing before mounting the wing, so tomorrow, on goes the wing. The bottom insignia were quite difficult to locate correctly, but eventually, they found their spots. Just keep them well lubricated. Then hit them hard with MicroSol to snuggle them down. They’re still drying here, I’m on my third coat of MicroSol, and then a clear coat followed by some weathering. Decal performance has been absolutely stunning. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 So the wing is on, and for the most part, the fit is superb. I have yet to find any surprised big enough to bite an experienced modeler, which, for as complicated and potentially treacherous a build this is, is surprising, in a very good way. I’ll note two things of import. Number 1 is to paint and decal the wing and fuselage before joining them. The bottom of the wing might prove to be a very difficult masking job If it’s all assembled. Number 2 is that once you join the two, expect a small join line that will need to be removed (see pic) 7 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Looks great Ern !....harv 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 The Bristol Mercury installation really looks the part here. 100%. OOB 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harv Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 How the hell is the prop mounted ?....harv 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 If you love the esoteric, and you also really like the look of British 1930s radial engines with their quirky exhaust collectors, you’ll love the P.11c model. the first impression is UGLY, but once you study the design, you see it’s a militarized version of a very sexy 1930s design. You could tart this one up and smooth it out, and it wouldn’t look out of place lined up next to any of the purpose built racers of the period 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 Harv, the prop is mounted blade by blade on the spinner. You can see the indentations where it goes. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 exciting 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinnfb Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HubertB Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Actually, it's one of the (or more likely just THE ) inaccuracies of the kit: the root of the prop is too squarish and needs smoothing and rounding out. This is maybe where the AM parts could be justified, as the oil radiator which is nice as is, but given molding limitations - mold release angle to be precise -, does not accurately represent the concentric fan-type orientation of the radiator fins ... I think I have sorted out doing the wheel-spats for the 1934 prototype. The spats are not that complex to reproduce, but the fairing between the spat and the LG struts is a very complex streamined shape, and I made my life more difficult by not yet gluing the strut to the fairing, to make the process reversible in case I f%@!d up and had to change plans. Time to start a WiP now this is sorted, methink. Hubert 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazzaS Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 Some great, clean work, Ernie! Well done! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 2 hours ago, HubertB said: Actually, it's one of the (or more likely just THE ) inaccuracies of the kit: the root of the prop is too squarish and needs smoothing and rounding out. This is maybe where the AM parts could be justified, as the oil radiator which is nice as is, but given molding limitations - mold release angle to be precise -, does not accurately represent the concentric fan-type orientation of the radiator fins ... I think I have sorted out doing the wheel-spats for the 1934 prototype. The spats are not that complex to reproduce, but the fairing between the spat and the LG struts is a very complex streamined shape, and I made my life more difficult by not yet gluing the strut to the fairing, to make the process reversible in case I f%@!d up and had to change plans. Time to start a WiP now this is sorted, methink. Hubert I took a sanding stick to the prop roots already, trying to correct the blocky angles IBG gives me, and they do look a lot better than they did on the Sprue. But we’ll see I guess. And I had my first close look at the oil cooler last night. I’d say yes, it’s one of the few parts that could benefit from the preciseness of a resin casting. I’m looking forward to seeing those wheel spats Hubert. Id certainly be open to purchasing a set or two if you’re reproducing them. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HubertB Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 17 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said: I took a sanding stick to the prop roots already, trying to correct the blocky angles IBG gives me, and they do look a lot better than they did on the Sprue. But we’ll see I guess. And I had my first close look at the oil cooler last night. I’d say yes, it’s one of the few parts that could benefit from the preciseness of a resin casting. I’m looking forward to seeing those wheel spats Hubert. Id certainly be open to purchasing a set or two if you’re reproducing them. I had not thought about making resin copies of the spats. I can see already plenty of reasons where there would be issues like undercut. Lemme give the idea more reflection . Hubert 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 What is it about a WW2 solid two blade fighter prop that is so hard to get right? I've seen plenty of resin and injected 1/32 kits with very inaccurate looking props that look like they were hand carved with a butter knife 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocRob Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 1 hour ago, Clunkmeister said: What is it about a WW2 solid two blade fighter prop that is so hard to get right? I've seen plenty of resin and injected 1/32 kits with very inaccurate looking props that look like they were hand carved with a butter knife Three dimensional, multi angled, curved shapes it is what makes it hard. The other candidates are curved lips of air coolers, cowlings and jet intakes, lots of PITA potential here. I asked myself the same question out of frustration, even when I knew . Cheers Rob 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Clunkmeister Posted April 13, 2020 Author Administrators Share Posted April 13, 2020 Agree Ron, but I’d think a squared off corner anywhere but on the tip of a prop might give someone reason for pause. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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