CF-104D Triple Sick

[BlrwestSiR]

Well, preliminary coat of primer is on to see if I need to do any fixes. I see a couple but they're mostly cat hair I missed.  

Once those are done, I'll do a full coat of primer. 

[Clunkmeister]

On 4/14/2020 at 11:23 AM, BlrwestSiR said:

That is one shiny plane. That's more or less the scheme I'm aiming for but RCAF markings rather than the CAF ones. 

It’s shiny because even after 20 years, it was still basically a brand new jet. 

[Clunkmeister]

This is looking great. And I thought I built SLOW!  
 

Carl, the 104 is always a model I intended to buy, both single and two seaters, but I never did figure out which versions I needed to be able to properly do the two versions of the CF-104.  I really like the classic original version with highly polished fuselage and anti flash wings for its tactical nuclear strike role.

[BlrwestSiR]

4 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

This is looking great. And I thought I built SLOW!  

Not so much slow as I keep getting onto other projects. Plus kids and a puppy conspire to reduce my bench time. 

The Italeri kits aren't bad. Some details are a bit soft but this is my second one. I did a single seater as an Italian Tiger Meet one.

If you start with the G/S kit, you should be able to turn that into an early RCAF plane. The cockpit and the burner can are probably the weakest parts of the kit detail wise. Lots of AM options out there for both but avoid the Aires 'pit. It's as wide as the exterior of the fuselage so no idea how you're supposed to make it fit inside. 

[BlrwestSiR]

Oh and forget the kit decals for an RCAF jet. They're all wrong. If you can find them Canuck decals did a great sheet for the kit. 

[BlrwestSiR]

28 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

It’s shiny because even after 20 years, it was still basically a brand new jet. 

That's true. It was quite the hanger queen. 

[Peterpools]

Carl

Looking so good and you're so close to priming the full bird. Which primer did you use as in the photograph it appears to be a polished aluminum?

I'm pretty much with Ernie and always wanted to build the Starfighter, just never got around to doing one. Note to self, add the 104 to the build schedule down the road.

 

 

[BlrwestSiR]

Peter, the primer is AK Xtreme black primer. It's just I've only applied a thin coat to see where any flaws might still be. 

[Peterpools]

Thanks Carl, sure looks more metallic on my screen but knowing it's black now, thin and smooth is the word

 

[BlrwestSiR]

The primer is fairly translucent not to mention thin. I thought it was a lacquer based on how thin it was but reading the label (who does that?!) it turns out it's an enamel. 

 

[Peterpools]

Carl

Right with you; read labels - never.

 

[BlrwestSiR]

Last thing I did last night was spray the nose and a panel on the vertical tail in Voodoo Grey. I figure this will help minimize the amount of masking I have to do over top of the NMF.

I then masked off and sprayed the anti-glare panel. 

This goes all the way up to the co-pilot's canopy.

Then I masked that off in preparation for the black base coat. 

Here's the black base coat on. I did the intakes at the same time. This stuff is shiny!

[harv]

Wow...harv

[Peterpools]

Carl

Nice prep work and the glossy black primer looks perfect. Can't wait to see the 104 in her NMF.

 

[Clunkmeister]

Awesome work, Carl!  
I bought out all the Voodoo Grey I could find when MM went down.  Are there other sources for it now, or just the old MM?

I’ve heard that some sell a grey called ADC Grey, which is supposedly close to the Voodoo Grey. 

[DocRob]

Nice and clean preparations are always a key t success. Your basecoat looks perfect Carland it's probably a good idea, to paint the nose before the NMF.

Cheers Rob

[BlrwestSiR]

34 minutes ago, Clunkmeister said:

Awesome work, Carl!  
I bought out all the Voodoo Grey I could find when MM went down.  Are there other sources for it now, or just the old MM?

I’ve heard that some sell a grey called ADC Grey, which is supposedly close to the Voodoo Grey. 

Hataka makes a Voodoo Grey in both acrylic and lacquer. I have their acrylic version. 

With the masking involved, I wanted to use a lacquer to reduce any chance of paint lifting. I noticed I had Mr Color 376 JASDF Radome Gray. In comparing the two, they looked close so that's what I went with. You can see the comparison below. 

[Peterpools]

Thanks Carl for the heads up. I'm going to buy a few bottles of both Mr Color and AK Real Colors has ADC Gray.

  

[BlrwestSiR]

I think they mislabeled the bottles and I used chrome rather than polished aluminium...

 

[Peterpools]

Carl

it's hard to tell on my end. Just do a quick test and compare the two bottles before moving on. It's seems lately, it's always something.

 

[BlrwestSiR]

22 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Carl

it's hard to tell on my end. Just do a quick test and compare the two bottles before moving on. It's seems lately, it's always something.

 

Thankfully, the real plane was that shiny so I'm all good. Just wasn't expecting polished aluminium to be so bright.

 

[BlrwestSiR]

Hit a small setback. The tape I was using on the tail has decided it really liked being there. It's basically shredded in trying to get it off. So needless to say, some of the paint has come with it. 

Thankfully it's all just on the tail so I'm going to let the paint dry a bit longer, it back and start over. 

[GazzaS]

The metal parts look good...   sad about the paint lift.  I hates it, Precious.

[BlrwestSiR]

Just now, GazzaS said:

The metal parts look good...   sad about the paint lift.  I hates it, Precious.

Thanks Gary. It's more than paint lift, the tape left residue all over the tail. I had to use Tamiya X20A thinner to get that off. 

[Martinnfb]

Catching up with your build Carl and everything looks pretty sharp. The paint bum-bum can be used to your advantage by recoating the affected areas with a fine layer leaving the imperfection in place as a pre-shading.