Beychevelle

Thanks, Perhaps I used the RLM 75 too heavy handed before, because when I look at these test smears... The RLM 75 looks ok....at least lighter than the 74. Still wondering about the grey-greens I often see. When I check books and colour schemes and finished builds on internet...still not helpful, because I see both...grey-greys and grey-greens. Mostly for the darker 74, but sometimes also the 75...one of them...and both of them Just wondering about it. Will do some tests before I mess up my current build. Less pressure, more thinner, drop of light grey. Thanks again..and more RLM wisdom is always welcome. Plenty of knowledge here Rob

Hello guys, I use Vallejo acrylics...mostly the "Air" range...for airbrushing (Obvious). Lovely paint, not smelly or toxic, I add a few drops of airbrush thinner, but furthermore...ready to go paint. Easy airbrush cleaning also. All in all...I'm happy with Vallejo (end of commercial ) But....I have some doubts about some of their RLM colours. The RLM 76 seems pretty good, but I have problems with their 74 and 75...both are pretty dark grey and not a hinge of green in them. Lets say...dark grey and...darker dark grey. Are there any Vallejo users here with better ideas? Thanks, Rob

Ouch! Take it easy...the Tiger can wait for a bit. Get well soon. Rob

Eye catching little thing...I like it a lot. Rob

update... The small air intake scoops... Luckily they're hollow on the inside. Made it very easy to open them. More or less the same trick I used to open exhaust stacks. A 0.4mm drill bit...small hole in the centre and "grind" to the edges. Finished with a 0.2mm bit in the corners. Not too bad But this is bad.... I tried the Revell IP decals, but they look rediculous. Light grey???? why!? why...oh why? They're perfectly fine in the G-6 early/late kit. Revell....don't change something when it's good To sort it out I used the Airscale decals, but they don't fit properly...too large. The Revell ip is probably too small, because of the thickness of the fuselage and pit walls. Can't blame Airscale for this, but the result is not what I wanted. Such a bummer, I'll probably do a closed canopy after all. I have plenty more 109s and one open will do...perhaps with a Brassin pit shame, because I'm pretty proud of the rest of the pit. Seatbelts, control stick and I can close the fuselage and move on. More soon, Rob

Nice going Jeroen!

No molded on seat belts....woohooo! Seat belt decals instead...can't imagine that will look ok, but at least no annoying cutting and sanding needed. About the tail wheel...I think the one with the integral wheel is only used when retracted. There more options...with seperate tires and wheel hubs for the tail wheel. Edit: James noticed this also now I see myself building a couple of those when they become available. Won't take long before Eduard and Barracuda will pamper us with nice AM goodies. I predict a lot of fun for a decent price...even with some am stuff. Rob

sexy! Just to name something I like...the different shades of red...or whatever you did to make it look this good (preshading?).

Thanks! Rob

Beautiful 109! I must get myself a few of those Hasegawa 109s also...before I run out of 109s

Superb!

a piece of art. painting bare metal still something I have to learn

Matt posted this photo in my G-14 WIP topic with the 2 brackets

Not boring! Beautiful!

Btw...forgot to mention...Micro Kristal Klear is great stuff to make small knobs on tiny handles. Also fantastic to hold small pe parts in place before the final drop of ca glue to fix it, works much nicer than the regular PVA glue I used before.

Thanks guys! I think I spend more time searching for...and checking... pit photos and even original flight manuals then actually building. Loads and loads of them...G-6, G-10, G-14, K-4...and available aftermarket pits. No two pits were the same. (K-4 significantly different btw). This makes it hard to do it right, but it also gives some freedom for an "artistic approach". Most helpful are the photos from 109s in a sorry state. At least nothing was altered. The Eduard G-6 Brassin pit seems pretty good...I downloaded the manual and some photos of it. This helped me a lot. With a closed canopy the Revell version is good enough, but when open...it really need some work. I don't think Revell did anything wrong, but a lot of details are missing or too superficial. Again...not bad and will look nice with a closed hood. Only real no no is the welded on seat belts. Please Revell...stop doing that It's also weird Revell only gave the early metal foot board, while the G-6 kit has the early and the late wooden foot board. G-10 surely had the later. The manual also tells you to use the wrong (mk108) gun breech (see Mike/Matt review). Leaves me with 2 unsolved questions. The Eduard Brassin set has a control panel with a ZSK244 A-2 (Zünderschaltkasten) panel underneath the Instrument panel...just above the gun breech. Isn't this a Jabo only thing? ZSK244 A-2 Next question...on the left side of the seat tub I seen 2 vertical brackets on photos. The Eduard Brassin has some sort of "slab" hold in place by those brackets. Is this a map storage? Someone has a clear photo of it? Made of leather, canvas, wood, aluminium? For the fun of it...I downsized a "Bordnotkarte" to 1/32....8.5x4.3mm (folded to half size in a map), so when it's a map case...that's where I'll put it Looking forward to get my airbrush into action tomorrow

ready! well...to the point where I can throw some paint on. this was fun, but glad it's done!

Congrats!

putting those tracks together will keep you busy for a while Nice stuff...looking forward to see more!

You make it sound like it's shake and bake easy Looks great!

looks like it's sorted out...I see both photos

Thanks! They're not much work really. Just a 0.4mm drill bit in between thumb and index finger...drill 2 shallow holes next to eachother. Then put the bit in one of them and work sideways until the two holes become one and continue until the hole is nice enough. One hour to finish both. The Revell plastic is very workable (read: soft). The weld seams are dead easy also. Very thin stretched sprue. Glue with a tiny drop (the thin sprue melts instantly) of liquid glue at the bottom of the exhaust. When dry, gently pull it over the top and fix with another small drop. Cut off what sticks out when set. It's some work, but it's not difficult. In a childish manner I told myself: When I buy 2 of these kits and don't buy the Brassin exhaust and undercarriage, I get the Barracuda props and a third kit for free. Completely flawed logic of course, but a good excuse to keep the 109 production line going This, on the other hand..... ....took me a whole day and it's still not finished And so I soldier on

That's a nice range of books

uhmm...foamboard...lol. Even overhere, we call it foamboard, we don't translate it to Dutch. But I'll see if I can find a type name. To be continued