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Beychevelle

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Everything posted by Beychevelle

  1. No need to go shopping... Stretched sprue...cut..fold...ready to go. Hold it next to an upside down bottle of thin ca glue and a tiny drop will hang in the loop. Can pin point small amounts of ca glue with it. Also fine for liquid plastic cement...for a limited amount of time.. Doesn't matter...we all have unlimited amounts of sprue don't we? just saying
  2. not even enough space for a single wood worm there....so cruel
  3. I didn't even knew about this type of drop tank....never too old to learn I guess Looks superb!
  4. Incredible!
  5. Maybe some find this useful. Perhaps the battle hardened modelers find it yawningly boring, but after all.... we have more guests than regulars. Paint with metalic pigment powder... Much easier than dry brushing and imho...a nicer result. Great for engines, gun barrels, radiotors and whatever you can think of. Be careful with varnish and water though.
  6. and all this in two weeks time
  7. Ah! okey. I didn't look into the Hartmann machine specs that much, because I'm doing a different G-10. Now I think of it...I read the Hartmann G-10 had the small kidney shaped bulges, so probably not the larger wheels. Barracuda has a fix for this. Where I am now: Closed the fuselage and attached the inner top wing parts with the wheel wells. Uneventful...apart from the known issues. Mainly the poor fit of the cockpit rear panel to the fuselage. When unattended, the fuselage will balloon out and not meet the rear wall properly. I removed the notches on the inside of the fuselage, because they push the rear wall forward too much. Instead I made some support blocks there and forced the fuselage to fit properly. CA glue needed. Still a small gap on the top, but that's inevitable and easily solved with a bit of filler. Another minor issue: The 2 pins on the lower wing are too short. When you force them in place the rear wing edge will be V shaped instead of straight...and the flaps won't fit in. Best remove both pins and replace them with a support block. Hope this made sense...tried to explain, because it seems at least two others are working on the same kit now. Both issues apply to the G-6 early/late kit also. More soon, Rob
  8. The G-14 is a late G-6, but equipped with the MW50 power boost, an Erla canopy and a late rudder style. Maybe there more small differences. The Mike and Matt kit review gives a good explanation: http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1238-132-messerschmitt-bf-109g-6-early-and-late/ Rob
  9. I like it a lot! So many nice schemes to choose from. Needless to say...I'll keep an eye on this one
  10. From one Vallejo user to another ... I find the gunmetal...any Vallejo metal for that matter... a real pain to brush on. For painting small pieces...like tools...I find it easier to paint the part black and drybrush the metal on. Drybrush very lightly and repeat when needed...after it dried. Another method I use. Paint black and rub on Vallejo Dark steel pigment with the tip of my finger. Polish with a soft tissue afterwards. I prefer this, but there's a risk when you want to varnish afterwards. Varnsh can mess it up badly. Great build and you work amazingly tidy...the last two photos are like 3D renderings from a Kagero book
  11. I don't have any books on this subject...only thing I found (so far) is a PzKpfw IV E serving with the 15th pz div. Colour plate B2 in the Osprey Panzerkampfwagen IV Medium Tank 1936-45 book. When you like I can take a photo of it and email it to you...don't think it's legal...or nice...to post it here. Rob
  12. Oh my...I'm no expert Mike and Matt are experts I think.(I followed their advise) Most noticeable difference...the G-10 has no beules. Not all G-10s had the long wing bulges and not all had the tall tail wheel.
  13. When you check this... http://falkeeins.blogspot.nl/2011/09/erich-hartmanns-last-bf-109-g-10.html ...and look at the photo with the red kopierschutz (copyright) written on it. Looks like the larger wheels...can't see the tail wheel, but it looks like the rear fuselage is standing high on it's feet, so...tall tail wheel. Hope this helps, Rob
  14. Last photo before closure... With a new instrument panel with G-6 early/late decals. Thank goodness, the fidly bits job is done. Now I can glue chunks of plastic I can actually see together. Rob
  15. Received the HAD set with the JG 53 "white 17" So the Wfr.Gr 21 equiped G-6 is covered now. Decent, but basic set of decals. That's okey, only need the "17" and the "spade". Photo taken directly underneath the tubelight of my magnifying lamp..made the film of the 17 look pretty bad...the lighting did this. I'll cut away the film nonetheless. Will start this when I finished the G-10, E-3 and Spit...so will take a while. Thanks again guys. Rob edit: by the way, still no reply from EagleCals
  16. Thanks! I'll check them out for sure. For now I think I swap this ip with a fresh one and use spare G-6 early/late decals....it's the same ip anyway. Eager to do an open canopy, also because I just found a "new" (and possibly most awesome) am Revi 16B. They're from NorthStar (huh? who? never heard of them. well...me neither) I'll write a review when I receive them. For now...nothing to show, done the seatbelts and prepared the fuselage for closure, but all know how how seatbelts look and and a prepped fuselage isn't very exciting either. More soon though...the 109 production line is working overtime! In my case...that's snail pace + Rob
  17. I predict a shortage of black modeling paint fairly soon.
  18. You wingnutters are crazy! In a positive way, but still...crazy!
  19. awesome! .............................that gunsight!
  20. Wow! that's indeed "heavy"...bordering solid black grey. My G-14 was supposed to be heavily mottled (According the Kagero book) Still a lot lighter than yours...or it must be the lighting. But also...hardly any difference between 74 and 75. The colours on my photo are too blue because of the lighting...just to make it all even more confusing I'll add a few drops of light grey to the 75 from now on. I like to stick to Vallejo, also because it's available around the corner and Gunze is pretty difficult to find here. Note: top wing is 76 and 74..part of the reason I picked this scheme. Looks like the Gunze 75 is a bit brownish (like RLM 81?)...the 74 has the green I mentioned. Superb fine mottling btw. I guess colours will keep us busy till the end of modeling times
  21. These are winterketten (1942), ostketten were widened tracks (1944). Stunning build!
  22. Looking forward to see some of these build. The metalic paint wizards will have a field day with this one
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