Peterpools

Gus Got me!

Thanks Carl, finally getting over all the obstacles of an old kit it and making the turn for the run up to the finish line. Good luck with taking the boys to the dentist tomorrow - I'm sure they can think of a lot better things to do.🏒

Gus Is it the air bleeds on top of the fuselage - the insides should be gloss white.

"PW", much appreciated and of course those are my initials. Both the Army and the Navy aircraft had yellow wings during that period. Other then being colorful, there has to be a good reason - just have no idea,

John For such a simple kt, it's been a long road to this point.

Thanks John - finally heading in the right direction and the Kingfisher should be done in a week or so - thank goodness. .

Thanks Phil very much appreciated. Should have done this years ago rather then trying to keep saving my bad teeth. Anyway, fingers crossed the few days after the surgery won't be too bad.

Congrats. Now the fun begins

DECALING AND THE REPAIR THE REPAIR: Over a good week ago, I started an ‘OH NO’ thread in the Modeling Forum. I was nearly heartbroken when I discovered a bad stress crack on the lower left side of the fuselage just behind the wing. I posted my problem and received lots of excellent suggestion – thanks guys. First attempt: I drilled a stop hole at the beginning and end of the crack, sanded the crack smooth and with a combination of CA and Extra Thin, treated the crack and the stop holes. Total failure as the crack doubled in size with in four hours. Second attempt: Drilled new stop holes, drilled a larger pressure release hole at the very end of the wing trailing edge and opened up a slit under the flap, hoping this was the area that the stress was developing in. Then I drilled two more stop holes, sanded down the entire area down to bare plastic and used liberal amounts of extra thin. Let dry for a good day and then I sanded out the entire area, getting it ready for primer and painting again. I made sure the stop holes were left completely open and clear. While I was at it, I re-sanded the fuselage above each wing, removing bit of ‘turbulent paint’ I discovered. All was left to thoroughly dry for 48 hours and then I primed with MRP Lt Gray Primer and the Aluminum Paint was Tamiya Lacquer LP-70. Let dry for two full days and all still seems well. DECALING: Let’s just say the kit decals left a lot to be desired. After researching, I used Yellow-Wing decals, with one be being specifically for the Kingfisher aboard the USS Arizona just prior to the attack on Pearl Harbor: 48-044. Decals are printed by Micro Scale and are beautiful. I followed both the painting and decal guide provided with the decals. The national insignias are a bit small as compared to the decal drawings but look just fine and went down beautifully. Next up will be the gloss seal coat and then the runup to the finish line with adding all the small details. This Saturday, I have major oral surgery scheduled and am not expecting to be doing any modeling for around four or five days.

Just blown away -incredible work.

Phil Right with you

Phil Nice progress on the helm and the added details looks good and add a lot. Hard to phantom why there is so little AM for some kits and way too much for others. Carl's paint scheme suggestions certainly are different - never knew they wore they type of cammo.

Rob Right with you on using CA glues, as these days I do use a lot more CA then in the past, both Extra Thin and Medium. One area that the use as greatly increased is in filling in seam and I've been leaning more towards the black CA glues, as it's a lot easier to see where it is.

Ernie That it does. What really drives me crazy is when comparing paints with FS numbers or the common WWII colors, no two paint manufactures colors are the same. I always wondered how this could be. There must hopefully be a formula for each color.

John Yes, I know the Corsair was completely restored to flying condition. I wasn't referring to the Corsair but to the fate of so many old airplanes that have met the wrecker, just said it very poorly.

John Got ya .. just hate to see an airplane put out to pasture and deteriorate until it's off to the wrecker. Still. going to be a pretty cool project i something very different.

Kev Thanks for posting - pretty awesome work. I believe the P-40 were shipped by boat from the west coast to China.

Gaz Surely looks so cool.

Bill, Awesome work .. your Kingfisher is looking so good as she approaches the finish line.

Ernie The final color all depends on the degree of weathering and fading you want. Other than either a factory fresh or newly tied down on the flightline, P-40, which is how I tend to go, the brown would need to be lightened up. For the most part, the only way to see the actual color is to compare it to a color chip that has not been exposed to the sun or room light (to prevent fading) and absolutely never on computer monitor. Color photographs from that era never had the capability to reproduced colors that were accurate - Kodak just didn't have the technology yet. Just go with what feels good🎯

John Nice to see you're going with the restored F4U.

Thanks Phil, greatly appreciated. I started a secondary, small thread in the Modeling Forum: OH NO, as a few stress cracks appeared and stopped me cold in my tracks. It's been a week and I've tried two repairs, with the first being a total failure and the second one, seems to work. Finally, 48 hours after the second repair, the stress cracks were contained with four small stop holes being drilled and some fancy footwork at the rear bottom of the wing/fuselage area. Today, I sanded, polished, masked, primed and painted the area and if by tomorrow all is good, I'll be getting ready for decaling.

Ernie Nice work on getting the nose on - looking mighty good. A few gaps to play with and maybe smooth out a panel or two and that's it. A tough area to build and you pretty much nailed it. On my P-40 once I had the nose about the same as yours, I still wanted to close up all the seams and that took a lot of time and scribing. GWH didn't think out the small MG cowl in front of the windshield and it never seemed to fit right - they just over engineered that area. I always thought they should have made each half of the fuselage one piece right up to the engine cowl panels. If the builder wanted to show off the details under the MG cowl, it should have been a cut out panel from the inside and would have made life so much easier. Did you find the 3D printed MG barrels in the small box with the clear parts? It's not shown in the instructions, nor the reason they went with the four PE covers. I completely missed it but you could leave the MG's off and add the 3D printed ones at the end of the build. Such a good idea and it isn't show anywhere in the instructions - just on the box they are in and I never looked.

Your bench is always in action - nice choice of subject for your fill in build. I we could vote, mine would be for a -4 in good, flyable condition. This poor old gal surely has seen better days.

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