Peterpools

Mike Thanks for the addition images and I can now see the difference but on a completed model, I'm willing to bet most would never see the difference. Of course, after being treated to your work, accuracy is a prime goal and always achieved. Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv Yikes, I couldn't believe my eyes - now that's an upgrade set of the greatest proportions. lets getting cracking on the kit. Keep 'em comin Peter

Gaz Awesome progress and little each night adds up to a mountain of completed work over time. Love the parachute and you are so right, the standing figure adds so much to scale. Tge rocket launchers and drop tanks look perfect and all the work paid off. I never heard of using clear nail polish but if it survives the abuse of woman wearing it and not chipping off, it has to be strong. I did a quick google search and a good percentage of clear nail polish: "Basic clear nail polish can be made from nitrocellulose dissolved in butyl acetate or ethyl acetate. The nitrocellulose forms a shiny film as the acetate solvent evaporates." I not sure how this works with clear parts but after your results, well worth testing. Photography is a a passion of mine and there is a huge difference between macro and closeup work. Macro work from my understanding on a cell phone isn't macro work at all but works by digital manipulation and zoom lenses that claim to also do macro, unfortunately don't. A true macro lens allows the small object to be reproduced on the camera sensor up to 1:1 (full size) and close up work just just that, allows you move closer to the subject and maintain focus but not 1:1 magnification. In either case, both reduce the working Depth of Field; what is in focus and what isn't. For the wing tip lights, macro would be perfect as a shallow depth of field is all that is needed plus the wing tip light would fill the frame. For model photography I very rarely use my Micro Nikkor lens (Nikon always has called their macro lenses micro - I have no idea why) just for the depth of field issues. I don't want to get to technical but the easiest way to reduce the depth of field issue for model photography is shooting at the smallest F apertures (F22, etc). if you're into photography, focus stacking is the answer but completely not necessary - just way too much work. Sorry for the long winded explanation. Keep 'em comin Peter

John Awesome work as always and I was just over at the Completed Build Forum to enjoy your images. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks John Now I got it. Keep 'em comin Peter

Carl Nice additions to your stash and you can never have enough tools. Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv Nice haul for sure and great service to boot. Keep 'em comin Peter

Carl Any luck on finding paints for the Viggen in Canada yet? Keep 'em comin Peter

Mark Great news - let us know when it arrives and your thoughts on the kit. Mine still has a way to go before it's made and shipped. I'm leaning towards the Hataka paint set myself. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Carl for the heads up Keep 'em comin Peter

John Perfect in every detail - just a fantastic build and a wonderful dark Sea Blue glossy finish; I just love them this way. I've shot and tested a lot of different paints for this color and by far the most accurate representation is MM by far,they has just the right. 🏆 Thanks for the tip on clicking on the photo, as it not only increases the resolution but you can scroll through all the attached images! Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks MIke I'm still looking to see the differences Keep 'em comin Peter

John Way to go .. and a awesome way to make a save from the SOD. Just a bit confused (nothing new) as the top image is not the same as the bottom image. Was the work done? Going to be focused on this one if I didn't miss the party Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Phil Gary at Tamiya (Customer Service said in about 7-10 days. See how it goes Keep 'em comin Peter

Phil Sounds great - enjoy both Keep 'em comin Peter

Viggen: Any thoughts on paints for the cammo scheme? I'm looking at MRP and Hataka. Keep 'em comin Peter

MIke Are the differences that noticeable? Keep 'em comin Peter

Ernie Looking mighty good and the decals sat down just fine. Keep 'em comin Peter

Oliver add me to the WOW list; phenomenal work and the weathering - as realistic as it gets. Keep 'em comin Peter

Phil Terrific choice for your next build and I'm in the front row all the way. Keep 'em comin Peter

Hi Phil I understand your concerns and responded to Gaz's post with my thoughts and ideas (just before this post). Check them out and let me know what you think Keep 'em comin Peter

Gaz Thank you for the information and suggestions. In all the years I've been modeling and have done a number of closed canopies, this is the first time I've ever run into this problem. I'm positive it was a combination of thinning out the Mr Color Clear Gloss way to much and I did find a small slit/opening where the canopy pushes up against the front screening frame. Just a combination of bad modeling and bad technique. Your 100% correct in going with the canopy in the open position or adding it after at the very end of construction, which would have eliminated the problem. I do worry about sanding dust and specs finding their way onto the inside of the canopy after its all closed up as well. So the safest course : 1. Open canopy 2. Next, adding the closed canopy with PVA glue as the last step in the build. Going with the closed option as the fix and if it doesn't work, I can install the open canopy with some fancy footwork. Keep 'em comin Peter

Thanks Hubert, much appreciated Fingers crossed my plan works but I do have a backup plan just in case. Keep 'em comin Peter

MIke Nice work replacing the kit MG's with a set from GasPatch. Fuselage mods worked out very well. Keep 'em comin Peter

Harv - Glad you're in the front row and along for the ride. Going to be a fun build for sure. Keep 'em comin Peter