JeroenPeters

Thnx Rick! Here's wishing you and your beautiful family happy holidays! Cheers, Jeroen

17 days??? I think i might be able to finish the interior in 17 days.. Amazing stuff Dave. Respect.

And to you a Merry Christmas!

Well... The Evolution uses a total different dual action push/pull button. As does the Infinity. When mastered these airbrushes will give you better control. I'm sure. Better? I don't think so. It's just matter of personal preference. Easier to use and clean? Yes. Check this Colani out:

Now... that's what I call a review! What an amazing kit... I might even get one myself...

Thnx Jonathan! Here's some better pics. Still a lot of weathering and finishing to do...

Colani Airbrush Harder and Steenbeck Item # 124003 Available in the Netherlands for €207. For dealers around the world, please click this link for further information. Introduction When it comes to airbrushes I’m not to type to experiment. I own three airbrushes but always seem to fall back on my venerable trusty Tamiya trigger airbrush. The trigger enables me total control over the amount of paint I let through. I’m left handed, but not consistent. I’ll explain: I draw and write and airbrush with my left hand, but cut with scissors and use a computer mouse with my right hand. As a member of the local gun club I shoot right handed too. This means that my trigger finger is on my right hand. And the best control is on my left hand. The Tamiya trigger airbrush however seems to fit me best. So when I was handed this ergonomic Colani airbrush I was a bit sceptic. In the box: • nozzle 0.4 mm • color cup with lid 15 ml • universal spanner • two hand distance rings • additional integrated air connection for ultra-fine work The design Looking at this airbrush gives you the feel like it was left by a Klingon after the shooting of a Star Trek episode. Purple plastic and a visible free floating needle. This airbrush was designed 50 years ago by Luigi Colani. It really makes the airbrush fit your hand like a glove. The back part can rotate, making the fit even more adaptive. The distinctive single action trigger on top can be taken out and turned around so a lefty like me can use it. (See special tool that removes the trigger screw below.) This was the first thing I did. Still I sensed I lacked a bit of control like I have with a single trigger. Not knowing how to fix this, I visited my local airbrush store: Airbrush Services Almere. As a matter of fact the owner of the store was fixing a Colani airbrush when I walked in. I asked him for some pointers and advice. He told me the most important thing in getting control over the trigger is to add the „hand distance rings” that come with the airbrush. It’s important that your trigger finger is fully stretched when resting on the trigger. This gives you maximum control. In my case this meant adding both rings. The Colani airbrush is fitted with a fast coupling for the air hose. So that was another reason I needed to visit the Airbrush store. I bought one for € 14,50. Quite a practical little item I had not used before. No more unscrewing the air hose from my airbrush in the middle of a paint job causing… a mess. Just pull back the ring on the fast coupling to detach the air hose. So the below shown quick release coupling is not included with the set. What also strikes on this airbrush is the enormous 15 ml paint cup. I will never ever have the need to fill this up completely, so I bought a smaller 5 ml cup (€ 9,90). The large paint cup gives away a little on the characteristic of this airbrush. With it’s 0,4 mm needle it’s not specially suited to spray those really thin fine lines. This brush is great for spraying larger camo areas and middle fine work. But! It can be fitted with a 0,2 mm needle. For that you need to change the nozzle too. Or, if you need to spray larger areas you can get a needle set in sizes: 0,6 mm / 0,8 mm / 1,0 mm and even 1,2 mm. As a matter of fact many accessories can be added or changed on this airbrush. And that’s a great plus. Action I’ve used this airbrush for the main part of my latest build now. A Luftwaffe subject with mottled pattern. The type of pattern that demands a fine airbrush. I managed to get fairly thin lines in the first run. About 2,5 mm across. You can adjust the amount of air that is let through, before it shoots paint with the tool that comes with the airbrush. (See photo below.) I discovered that I could probably use this airbrush for about 90% of my work. Just great. And when I buy the extra 0,2 mm needle set, I might be able to use it for all of my work. It might not be needed, since I was also told you can spray even finer lines with a 0,4 mm needle when removing the crown cap (shown on the right, in the photo below.) Maintenance The cleaning of this airbrush is quite simple too because of the free floating needle that can be immediately removed by unscrewing the tightening screw. My Tamiya airbrush is much more difficult to open up and clean properly. With the special tool the Colani comes with you can easily remove the trigger and virtually reach every nook and cranny of the brush. If you shoot very thinned Gunze paints like me, you can normally clean this brush by shooting some thinner/terpentine or Aceton till it’s clean. Then remove the needle and wipe it. Conclusion This airbrush has deserved it’s merits over the years. It’s in use by a wide range of industries and modelers all over the world. A huge range of accessories and spare/replacement parts are at it’s disposal. The typical german quality of materials and fabrication can be felt straight away. And the results of my first run with it are superb. Everything you should expect from an airbrush of this brand and price range. If you are not a huge fan of the standard double action button/lever airbrushes, this might just be a great option. If you have a good airbrush store in your area, ask if you can test one. If I had done so, I would have bought it Very highly recommended (for the quarter and large scale modeler) With sincere thanks to Harder & Steenbeck for this review sample. See this link for dealers around the world. or you can get yours here: http://www.airbrush-services-almere.nl/shop9/shop9.html Jeroen Peters

Rick! You happen to have dutch blood maybe?

I'm trying both the Caran D'ache (as per Jeroen Veen) and the Prisma Color (as per James Jebediah Hatch).

Thnx Doug! That is exactly what I'm going to do. Almost done. Replaced the two struts that support the armored glass with PE too. I'll take better pics later...

Those exhaust stubs look the part! Really cool... Can't wait to see this build in the flesh at Telford 2014

what u are creating here is not just A model. it's a one of a kind representation in the only true scale. Museum worthy....

Haha! Love it!

I love it! (But off course you knew that already Welcome to the forum!

I just can't get over this. You just make it look soooooo simple. Please post a boo boo. Would make me feel a lot better. The gear looks really good and solid. Nice going!

I would be very proud and happy like a schoolboy if i managed to get one exhaust stub to look like you did. You will be making 24. Damn... This just keeps getting better and better.

One of out best reviews to date james. No questions. This answers all!!

Thnx! First decals are going on:

Damn Thomas, you make this look soooo simple! Very very nice....

Wow... you know what? I'm going to wait building WnW kits until you have posted all your tips and tricks. Then I'll commence. Not sooner. Thnx!

Thnx Bevan, It could be 02. It's weird that it wasn't photographed more or documented... Here's some progress on the painting:

Two questions for the gamblers: My guess is that the tail gear is black. And that the nose generator prop is.... Green? (I'm sure it's not RLM76 like the instructions state). Or is it? Anyone?

Thnx guys, well, the biggest hurdle is figuring out what colour profile is correct. Let's assume the underside was yellow. Then there's still the question on the colour of the upper wings. I believe after studying the few available photo's, that they were an even dark green. Not splinter camo. And they clearly show the RAF roundels. It's unbelievable how many different and incorrect colour scheme's can be found. The photo below clearly shows the overpainting of the underside with a lighter colour. But also english stenciling... My wild guess is they are not present on the decal sheet. Haven't checked yet And, if you look at this photo, you'll see another challenge shining through the roundel:

Thnx Guys, I'm really struggling with this build. Mostly in ways of reference. The Vf241 had it's canons and engine removed. However... i am building it with all internal organs in place. Let's say I'm building it before it had surgery.... There's a lot of discussion about the colors on this plane. Did it have even RLM81 color on the top wings and wing roots? Was the underside yellow? I'm going by what i can see myself in B/W photo's... No splinter camo on top. And walk lines painted by RAF! They could well be red.. Net up: mottling.

Van harte gefeliciteerd! Salut! Happy B-day! Cheers, Jeroen