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Playing in the Sandbox Group Build Sept 1, 2024 - Jn 1, 2025

P-40 / Kittyhawk Mk I 112 Sqn Neville Duke - GA-V / AK578


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Some work on the wheels

annoyingly there are no masks out there for these

tried using some masking fluid but wasn’t happy with the finish so cut mask circles myself but of course the infini mat I have has every f*cking size apart from the ~13mm that I reckon I needed

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Nothing looks crapper than a wheel which is just flat black so here are the colours I plan to use

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I started by giving them an overall dark blue coat just to draw it all together

then with paint stencil - someone please make these things in floppy plastic so can be used more effectively on compound curves - added some dark earth, and then some of the lighter colours…

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I will blend them all with some tyre black later but this is a decent start

 

 

 

 

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Also, some pics of the landing gear which are close to complete

Bob’s Buckles were used for the small loops that the brake line will be passed through

they were gloss coated (MRP) then Tamiya panel line wash dark brown, then sealed with matt coat MRP

 

 

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12 hours ago, nmayhew said:

 

Bob’s Buckles were used for the small loops that the brake line will be passed through

 

 

 

 

Hah...   thank you!  I use Bob's Buckles for my WWI rigging and never thought of using them this way.  Great tip!

 

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On 6/21/2021 at 7:49 AM, Kaireckstadt said:

Great work on the landing gear! 

Nice idea with the buckles. I used them for fixing of the antenna wires in the vertical tails of my Lancaster.

Did you do the oleos with foil or Molotow chrome pens? 

thank you

the oloe is just MRP super silver which i sprayed the whole oleo with pre-chipping

it was then masked and everything else done

it was only masked after matt coat and i was pleasantly surprised with the contrast and general look

next time - and perhaps on something larger - i might try to use MRP chrome

and yes i will also use these loops for the antenna tie-downs on the wings (haven't tried this before but i reckon easier than trying to just make the wire disappear into a tiny hole!

cheers

Nick

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i was toying with leaving the moulded on lumps - which are actually nice and crisp - but decided to clip them off and drill a small hole (per instructions - I have the Eduard kit) so that replacement clear parts can be added after painting

starting point...

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snipped!

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small drill bit in pin vice after a little sanding

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for next time i recommend doing this before you put anything together - it will be a bit less fiddly

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this is the part i plan to use at the tail and attach the elastic line (I'll be using Uschi, which is round - EZ Line is fine but it is square in profile and you will see it if it's twisted even at tiny sizes)

not entirely sure how accurate this is, but it will look a little better than just running the wire to the plastic tab part of the tail

it bugs me that no aftermarket provider makes designated parts for these insulators and springs and stuff!

the below was sourced from Hiroboy in UK btw

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and this is sort of what i think it will look like - note i drilled the hole too far back towards the tail so (test-)fitting the spring thingy was a bit more difficult that it should have been

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that's all for now

cheers

Nick

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getting close to primer!

going with interior green wheel wells but the rest will be Dupont's sky grey whatever the hell it was called (don't tell anyone but i'm using RLM76), so kitchen towel sprayed with water to make it stay in the wells

only really need to keep the primer out, as the wells themselves will get overspray round the edges maybe

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same procedure for the radiator cowl area

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the radiator flap part has two little tripod brace things which i found lacked any sense of positive fit, so careful here; i'll re-prime and paint this again later

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i guess i got lucky because after some fiddling and a little pressure it just clicked into place (I was able to remove it the same way)

 

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finally, what is this little thing on the underside?

fuel dump?

need to know if i should drill the little tube things out / replace with brass tube etc

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cheers

Nick

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Nice progress on the Kittyhawk Nick.

The cooling outlet of the engines looks really nice and busy.

I just wonder if the flaps were this thick. If they measure 1 mm on the model this would be 3,2 cm at the original plane?

Good idea to make the paper-towel wet to make it fit into the areas that have to be covered. Never thought of it before!

I don’t think that the small thing under the fuselage is a fuel dump. If it was the fuel would cover the fuselage underside when dumped. Every fuel dump I know it at the end of the fuselage or at the trailing edge of the wings. And I never heard that a WW2 fighter aircraft had a fuel dump system. But that’s only my assumption.

Looking forward to seeing the priming and RLM76 (good decision!) on the lower surfaces!

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yeah the flaps work out to Tiger armour plate thickness lol but i will always avoid PE wherever possible for genuine structure - for me that would be a recipe for disaster!

the udder thingy is hydraulic drain  - someone on SMCG posted a diagram - so at least i know they are actually tubes

btw PS-290 - f&ck me it's a beast!

if you don't have one, GET ONE!!!

 

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the stand is useless for this brush - I need to get something that can actually man up! 

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once filled with paint it nearly fell out!

anyway, the fan tip on this thing is the absolute nuts, and boy can it put out some paint!

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finally feel like i am getting somewhere!

 

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Gaz

I do have a few dedicated AB's: priming and gloss work: Iwata Revolution .5, all  other AB work the H&S infinities and the Grex for Model Air.  Seems to work well but I do at times have to remember which is for what. Most used AB H&S Infinity .2 tip.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

 

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Because I want to do chipping on wing roots - and maybe a few other spots - I then sprayed MRP Super Silver in these areas.

 

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I was just about to start with the whole hairspray then camo when I realised one of the three little circle thingies on the wings needed to be filled - i thought they were fuel filler caps but that was idiotic - the are gun related, though still no idea what they are

a few dabs of Mr Dissolved Putty did the trick

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one of the problems of chipping and black basing is they don’t necessarily go that well together

i was not clear in what I wanted to achieve and just started putting down dark earth…and also realised that whilst my airbrush control is reasonable, ability to replicate a camo pattern freehand is utterly feeble!

Feeling somewhat frustrated, but knowing this bird had a very feathered demarcation, I thought I would try blu tack (white tack actually) worms!

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with a few worms in place, I started putted down some Middlestone...

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One of the worms lifted up some paint - MRP’s super powers of adhesion are rendered somewhat impotent over hairspray, but let’s see how it looks after weathering etc 

I will do the chipping tomorrow.

whilst most of the middlestone is done, I haven’t yet done all the dark earth - I toyed with adding some German Rotbraun in places - but I have done the areas that will be chipped

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These last 2 pics show where I left it for the day…

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So Nick do I understand that you have HS over the silver?I found out the hard way that without a gloss black finish it makes the the chipping process tough since the finish is pebbly.It looks like you are using the short circular sprays of a million dots makes a wonderful finish but one I have yet to master.I did it on the D.Earth of the last two Hurri's just playing around.Coming along Quite Nicely!! :unworthy:

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That's a very interesting way of layering up the colors. The pics show the progressing steps very well. Lifting colors over HS is always possible, with the reduced adherence, there is wanted and unwanted chipping.

Cheers Rob

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8 hours ago, KevinM said:

So Nick do I understand that you have HS over the silver?I found out the hard way that without a gloss black finish it makes the the chipping process tough since the finish is pebbly.It looks like you are using the short circular sprays of a million dots makes a wonderful finish but one I have yet to master.I did it on the D.Earth of the last two Hurri's just playing around.Coming along Quite Nicely!! :unworthy:

process:

primer - MS1500 thinned with MLT 

then some light sanding with Infini 4000 if any rough areas (there shouldn't be, but it's easier sanding primer than paint!)

MRP silver (and i realise i went TOTALLY overboard in where i put it)

hairspray

MRP colours

 

the colour was laid down using PS-771 which is just awesome 

i got mine for £175 from ebay direct from Japan, and escaped the customs charge etc

even if i had got nailed, it was still materially cheaper than anywhere in Europe / UK, and arrived in less than a week

it is one of those brushes which you have to try to believe

spending £100 less on another brush for your detail work is in my view a false economy (should your funds permit of course)

 

i have never heard of pebbling with MS1500 and MRP paints - other stuff who knows

note I am not laying down 'gloss black' per se, it's just primer on a well-prepared (in theory!) surface

the result should be super smooth when you run your finger over it

if it's not, you either had some gruff areas from construction, or you were not laying the paint down properly

 

I like MS1500 and MRP because they are super durable, dry in seconds, and spray like nothing else out there

 

hope this helps

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