Jump to content
The Great LSM Twins Group Build ends July 3, 2024 ×

Gottfreid Weiroster Bf 109G6 R6 Revell 1/32


Recommended Posts

Say that phrase very carefully when you first meet people...

2 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Steve,

I am an infomaniac.

As for the Bf-109 G canopy...

The 20kg main cover is held in place with just 4 small rods; two fixed on the starboard side, and two on the port side that extend or retract into the bottom of the frame to lock it in place or allow entry/exit to the cockpit.

IMG_20210908_184419.thumb.jpg.9c8bd9c8af6811c59620696e26e13323.jpg

Remarkably, that's the extent of it. Each side of the front canopy has a compensating hole at the base... Seen at the starboard here, and also visible on the port side in Kai's photo above.

IMG_20210908_184628.thumb.jpg.75b5c92687f7556aacedb88093e4277d.jpg

The rear canopy has a similar notch at the base to receive these rods. Also note the two circular brackets on the inside of the rear frame and the brace across the base (more about these in a minute.)

IMG_20210908_184726.thumb.jpg.3c127f5c42bd7cdefcadc538f97dc764.jpg

Now for this portside lock... Shown here on the Erla Haube canopy, but the internal mechanism was the same on the standard frame. The canopy lock on the inside of the bottom rail moves the rods to lock or unlock the canopy (detailed in 'Point A').

IMG_20210909_183539.jpg.87fa6a692390d37555c20af26db1c816.jpg

Note the hole here in the front of the frame on Theo Weissenberger's G-2 (plus also the hole on the outside to access the lock.)

IMG_20210909_174501.thumb.jpg.9c7e01d0f518818b96d9a467c7301547.jpg

The rear canopy sat atop two small rings at the base of the angled rear shelf.

IMG_20210908_184459.thumb.jpg.0e9aab4db4be6fcfe454c73fba9f105a.jpg

Remember the brace in the photo above? It contains rods within, that sit inside these rings to keep the rear canopy in situ. Above this on the rear shelf, were another two rods fixed in place with small springs inside (that fit inside the round housings mentioned before.) In an emergency when the canopy release lever was pulled; the brace rods withdrew from the rings, the springs on the shelf pushed upwards, and the entire centre and rear canopy sections fell away with gravity or the slipstream... Alleviating the need to open the massive 20kg canopy to the starboard while under duress.

IMG_20210908_184208.thumb.jpg.6f292a90e2b5b63ea1f40a7ccfff05ad.jpg

Whether you can be bothered to add all this extra detail is a matter of personal taste. But that's the mechanisms at play here for a standard '109 G

HTH,

S

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kai, Gaz and Rob

Sorry I was a bit long winded and didn't want to leave the impression, that only good images can be taken with digital cameras and not cellphones. The truth is they can but it's what you do with the files (images) they create. I always shoot in RAW and every photograph I post has been processed in Photoshop and Lightroom. That's just me and the way I work. I always appreciate the photographs attached to build threads as the whole point is to let us enjoy the work and visually understand the update.

Keep 'em comin

Peter 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Wumm said:

Say that phrase very carefully when you first meet people...

As for the Bf-109 G canopy...

S

Hahah....    I'd probably never, ever say it to anybody IRL.  I work with people who have no interest in 109's...  or anything further in the past than their last beer or wager made on sport or horses.

Thank you for those excellent illustrations and detailed explanations.  All very new stuff to me. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello everyone!

    Work continues...    despite finding yet another shape error. 

 

I primed and fixed a few small spots...  and then sanded the primer coat smooth.  Then I made the masks with the Silhouette program.

WMG.png.6a0b14e07724699fd85597f9d23df3e5.png

I always make at least one extra of each marking.

 

Earlier I wrote of another shape issue...   here is what I am taking about.  Let me draw your attention to the shadow immediately above the long red line between two shorter red lines.

IMG_0016.thumb.JPG.e79097d1dc168901c07ec7aab0e8713c.JPG

I believe that in this area the kit maker has prematurely rounded the bottom of the fuselage towards the keel line.  Note how the shadow starts narrow behind the trailing edge of the wing and then widens as it reaches the cross before narrowing again towards the tail wheel.  I found this on an old Hasegawa 1/48 kit of a G-10 which shortly thereafter found it's way into the bin.

IMG_0017.thumb.JPG.4b34557bcb84eb4611816aefdd85379f.JPG

I had three choices regarding the no-walk lines.  I could either mask them before and paint red over white.   Or I could mask them later and struggle to cover RLM colors with red...   Or I could use the kit decals.  Though it was hell to get all of the tiny masks into place and in line...I'm glad I did it this way.  The decal never turns our the way I like.

IMG_0019.thumb.JPG.85f34176f9338d3d626aaf891c843eb5.JPG

I 'browned' the red by adding a little yellow and blue to the red paint.

Speaking of paint...   It's all MRP so far.  White primer.  US Navy White under the markings.  And then Richthofen's Red with a hint of Swedish Yellow and International blue.

The underside:

IMG_0018.thumb.JPG.64f8ba6e8048275187289a3f17825da5.JPG

You can see on this ventral view the over-rounding of the lower rear fuselage.

 

IMG_0020.thumb.JPG.5ce728550cf27891bb5010eb5c4487b4.JPG

anyway...

still waiting for my deck chair parts...

 

Catcha later!

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaz, unbelievable work and nice choice with using masks for the wing walks, plus creating your own masks for all the marking... looks perfect. Thinking about all the issues and inaccuracies of your 109 you've had to deal with, I wonder if the manufacturer work from as accurate plans that was available as compared to taking their measurements from an actual aircraft?  One other thought is the molding process at the time the kit was designed and the molds made, the technology wasn't there to replicate all the shapes and curves and compromises made?  

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Peterpools said:

I wonder if the manufacturer work from as accurate plans that was available as compared to taking their measurements from an actual aircraft?  One other thought is the molding process at the time the kit was designed and the molds made, the technology wasn't there to replicate all the shapes and curves and compromises made?  

Thank you, Peter.  I have considered the same thing.  But older kits by other companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, and even UM all got it right.  It just boils down to a lack of research.  I mean...   Germany has plenty of 109's in museums.  And there are plenty of line drawings out there, I'm sure.  Really...it's just a poor kit.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you, Peter.  I have considered the same thing.  But older kits by other companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Fujimi, and even UM all got it right.  It just boils down to a lack of research.  I mean...   Germany has plenty of 109's in museums.  And there are plenty of line drawings out there, I'm sure.  Really...it's just a poor kit.

Gaz

I completely agree - just a shame you had to go through correcting what the manufacturer then should have done.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

I completely agree - just a shame you had to go through correcting what the manufacturer then should have done.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

 

The real shame is the stuff I can't correct without major structural changes.  It's kind of cool to fix things.   But it really gets my goat when it's just too big to mess with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, friends,

    I big day of masking and painting.

After painting the markings, I sealed all of the markings with tape or liquid mask.IMG_0035.thumb.JPG.93164e3baa05e159171065208224b5a2.JPG

Then painted lower wings and the entire fuselage RLM 76

IMG_0036.thumb.JPG.c906ca4647c7781981affaf69a83d7de.JPG

IMG_0037.thumb.JPG.d9f78b4dd6425c55ae3e3ab37ebebcc8.JPG

Then added the RLM 75 in the appropriate areas, then used blutack blobs to hold the sawtooth masks over the wings.

IMG_0039.thumb.JPG.6d7c1419915b1d511f45ac3d23a931dc.JPG

Than added the RLM 74, RLM 02 mottles, and the RLM 04 chin identification.

IMG_0040.thumb.JPG.68cd5f38ffb97285242ef8771eb2820d.JPG

IMG_0041.thumb.JPG.61e8610f61ad409a0ef8578dc6f4c4ee.JPG

IMG_0042.thumb.JPG.aded5b88ccab215c1386afa6a1eaea72.JPG

IMG_0043.thumb.JPG.c23d1085e45d4b04f6472c56ebd3c2a3.JPG

IMG_0043.thumb.JPG.c23d1085e45d4b04f6472c56ebd3c2a3.JPG

 

Happy modelling!

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, very cool paintjob and it even camoes the false shapes of the kit ;). Gutsy call to spray the walk lines with masks, but it payed in the end. She will look great and will make you forget all the issues, this subpar kit has. 
After all, it's somehow good to see, that not all the kits out there are perfect. Being in my third Tamiya build in a row, I have the feeling, that a kit which needs a bit more of extra work, should be next. The most fun generating project overall in the last years was the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII, where I could be very creative about finding solutions for the kits weaknesses.

Cheers Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, DocRob said:

Wow, very cool paintjob and it even camoes the false shapes of the kit ;). Gutsy call to spray the walk lines with masks, but it payed in the end. She will look great and will make you forget all the issues, this subpar kit has. 
After all, it's somehow good to see, that not all the kits out there are perfect. Being in my third Tamiya build in a row, I have the feeling, that a kit which needs a bit more of extra work, should be next. The most fun generating project overall in the last years was the Mikro Mir Fokker D.VIII, where I could be very creative about finding solutions for the kits weaknesses.

Cheers Rob

Thank you, Rob.  The walk lines aren't exactly perfect.  But they'll do from a couple feet away.  It might be one of those techniques that has to be done last.

The shape still bugs me.  Bugs me enough to keep thinking on how I might fix the problems on the Revell G10.  If scribing wasn't required, the simple answer would be putty.  I have filled 109 panel lines before.  And the major problem with that is what happens to the details you don't want to fill.  Invariably they suffer, and rescribing fuel hatches and handholds... is tough.  They never look right for me.

If the ZM 109 comes out before I get to it...  I might have to give the Revell away.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Holy Smoke - awesome paint work and all in one massive day at the bench to boot!

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Thank you, Peter.  Yep...   big lay day it was.  Watching football now...   so another lazy day happnin.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you, Peter.  Yep...   big lay day it was.  Watching football now...   so another lazy day happnin.

Gaz

Been watching the US Open Tennis Tournament the past week and today is the men finals. Assume tournament.

Keep 'em comin

Peter

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, antonio argudo said:

looks phenomenal that camo, which paint brand did you use for the 74/75/76? cheers

Thank you.  The external paints except for the green #3 are all MRP.  RLM 76 is actually 50/50 RLM 65 and 76.  RLM 75 is RLM 75 made more gray by adding Black and USN White.  RLM 74 is RLM 74 with a little International Blue mixed in.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today...  along with a cutting mat...   my plastic strip arrived...   so of course I put together a deck chair.

IMG_0044.JPG.b90e5af74e7c1674f4b40e5ae3f99974.JPG

IMG_0045.thumb.JPG.a762eaa1be0c5bf39fedf44842576192.JPG

IMG_0046.JPG.08948a4c4ae9a5954df630d94df4f78a.JPG

241690286_2138358009644753_7229074288265929107_n.jpg.e541c9b5d0ba9090196b6f6980ac1dc4.jpg

As you can see...  my plastic strip stock is way out of scale.  I may disassemble the chair, make each piece more narrow...  and reassemble it.  Most importantly, now I have some experience putting together this rickety thing.

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GazzaS said:

As you can see...  my plastic strip stock is way out of scale.  I may disassemble the chair, make each piece more narrow...  and reassemble it.  Most importantly, now I have some experience putting together this rickety thing.

Very ikeaesque Gaz :D. By the way, they have manuals to download, which could help with the proportions. The chair would clearly benefit from narrower strips.

Cheers Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mark31 said:

very nice camo ont the 109 first time i have seen thes on the wings

Keep it up

 

Mark

Thank you, Mark.  I've yet to see a good representation in a photo from a perpendicular angle.  All the pics I've seen are from a low angle...   So I have no idea how close I am.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, DocRob said:

Very ikeaesque Gaz :D. By the way, they have manuals to download, which could help with the proportions. The chair would clearly benefit from narrower strips.

Cheers Rob

It was hard to find the same-ish design of chair.  I may have already ordered the stock when I found the DIY article. 

deckchair_image-finished.jpg

It's not quite the same.   But it has a lot in common with Weiroster's chair.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...