Peterpools Posted April 9, 2023 Posted April 9, 2023 Pete Absolutely stellar looking. Weathering and details brilliantly done. 1 1
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 9, 2023 Author Posted April 9, 2023 Thanks you guys for the kind encouragement! here’s today’s effort- black wire bundles added from 2 part black epoxy putty, rolled into tiny sausages and placed with a wet brush 7 1
HubertB Posted April 9, 2023 Posted April 9, 2023 5 minutes ago, Pete Fleischmann said: Thanks you guys for the kind encouragement! here’s today’s effort- black wire bundles added from 2 part black epoxy putty, rolled into tiny sausages and placed with a wet brush Great technique. I just need to remember it when I need it Hubert 1 1
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 13, 2023 Author Posted April 13, 2023 Gloss coat on bay 5 down in prep for weathering, then final component assembly. A few unique IAF boxes to add to the left sidewall. gloss coat is X22 thinned with leveling thinner from Isradecal F-15 Baz book- Cheers P 7 1
Bomber_County Posted April 13, 2023 Posted April 13, 2023 I was feeling good about my crude detailing, Peter this is just amazing, back to the needlepoint and quilt making for me………. 4 1 1
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 17, 2023 Author Posted April 17, 2023 Hello all- I know these pictures all kinda look the same.. but here is the first oil wash on bay 5 cheers P 7
Peterpools Posted April 17, 2023 Posted April 17, 2023 Pete Looks so good. How do you actually do the oil weathering and staining? Would like to give it a try myself. 2
Daywalker Posted April 17, 2023 Posted April 17, 2023 I am also interested in your black epoxy putty "sausage" wires, any chance we could see more on how you did that? Fantastic work brother. 3
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 17, 2023 Author Posted April 17, 2023 6 hours ago, Daywalker said: I am also interested in your black epoxy putty "sausage" wires, any chance we could see more on how you did that? Fantastic work brother. Thanks Frank- here’s a link to a thread on LSP that shows this technique.. Click me cheers Pete 1 1
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 17, 2023 Author Posted April 17, 2023 8 hours ago, Peterpools said: Pete Looks so good. How do you actually do the oil weathering and staining? Would like to give it a try myself. Hi Pete- I use good quality artists oils in tubes. Windsor and Newton are wonderful. I don’t have too many colors; just Payne’s grey, burnt sienna, Lamp black, and white. Paynes grey is typically where I start..adding others to the mix to get the color I want. Straight black is too harsh in my opinion. I thin them with mineral spirits on a plastic palette to a wash consistency, and apply them with a brush mostly to highlight the edges of raised detail or into recesses. It’s ok to be a little messy during this phase. I let the wash sit for about 10 minutes…maybe longer..until it starts to set up. You’ll know it’s beginning to set when the glossy sheen from the wash starts to dull. Then I’ll wipe back the wash with cotton buds, a dry brush..even a cotton rag.. You can blend the oils very easily into the base paint at this stage..feathering it out as your taste allows. If you’ve waited too long and a dry bud isn’t moving the wash, not to worry- just moisten a bud with mineral spirits and keep going. it’s important to have a gloss clear base coat down before you apply the wash. The base coat needs to chemically resist the mineral spirits solvent ; so a good acrylic gloss clear is in order. I typically use the MRP clear gloss, or Tamiya X22 thinned with Mr leveling thinner, or even Future. The gloss allows the wash to flow smoothly. If you oil wash over a clear flat it will still work; but the rough surface texture of a flat coat will trap the oil wash in the microscopic low spots of the clear flat finish and act as a filter- changing the color of your base coat. typically my weathering steps are: paint dry brush clear acrylic gloss (decal if required) Oil wash flat coat other media can be introduced as well as appropriate if needed. For this Eagles bay 5, I used an acrylic filter to adjust the color after the base coat. Any pigments would be applied after the flat coat. HTH Pete 5
Peterpools Posted April 17, 2023 Posted April 17, 2023 Pete Thanks so much for the tutorial - going to give a try on my 109 build. 3
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 18, 2023 Author Posted April 18, 2023 Bay 5 flat coat. This stage is where you can really see the impact of the filters, dry brushing, and oil wash- I might come back with a touch of exposed metal dry brushing on some of the edges.. cheers Pete 10
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 20, 2023 Author Posted April 20, 2023 An accurate ACES II is not as easy to achieve as you might expect. Most have shape/size issues. The best out there is the old Cutting Edge seat. But even the Cutting Edge seat has its issues. To get it right, I replaced the rails with the Tamiya seat rails; cut away from the kit seat with a razor saw. The pitot tubes and canopy penetrator are also from Tamiya. The fuzzy seat cover was replicated by first filling the gaps between seat back quilting with water putty. Then several heavy layers of Mr. Surfacer 1000; allowing each layer to dry thoroughly until the back pad was smooth. The last layer of Mr Surfacer was stippled-on with a short, stiff brush to create the fuzzy texture. The pad is typically more matted in the middle from the pilots body and fuzzier at the edges- cheers P 11
Pete Fleischmann Posted April 21, 2023 Author Posted April 21, 2023 More seat stuff- a coat of Mr Surfacer black, and then Tamiya Rubber Black shot from above and then the initial dry brush with Gunship Grey enamel looks better now! but lots more to do- P 3
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