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The Great LSP Twins Group Build Starts Jan 24, 2024 - End July 3, 2024 ×

F-15A Improved Baz 1/32 Tamiya


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5 minutes ago, Pete Fleischmann said:

Thanks you guys for the kind encouragement!

here’s today’s effort-

black wire bundles added from 2 part black epoxy putty, rolled into tiny sausages and placed with a wet brush 

Q9FFb2g.jpg

Great technique. I just need to remember it when I need it ;)

Hubert

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8 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Pete

Looks so good. How do you actually do the oil weathering and staining? Would like to give it a try myself.

Hi Pete-

I use good quality artists oils in tubes. Windsor and Newton are wonderful. I don’t have too many colors; just Payne’s grey, burnt sienna, Lamp black, and white.

Paynes grey is typically where I start..adding others to the mix to get the color I want. Straight black is too harsh in my opinion.

I thin them with mineral spirits on a plastic palette to a wash consistency, and apply them with a brush mostly to highlight the edges of raised detail or into recesses. It’s ok to be a little messy during this phase. I let the wash sit for about 10 minutes…maybe longer..until it starts to set up. You’ll know it’s beginning to set when the glossy sheen from the wash starts to dull. Then I’ll wipe back the wash with cotton buds, a dry brush..even a cotton rag.. You can blend the oils very easily into the base paint at this stage..feathering it out as your taste allows. If you’ve waited too long and a dry bud isn’t moving the wash, not to worry- just moisten a bud with mineral spirits and keep going.

it’s important to have a gloss clear base coat down before you apply the wash. The base coat needs to chemically resist the mineral spirits solvent ; so a good acrylic gloss clear is in order. I typically use the MRP clear gloss, or Tamiya X22 thinned with Mr leveling thinner, or even Future. The gloss allows the wash to flow smoothly. If you oil wash over a clear flat it will still work; but the rough surface texture of a flat coat will trap the oil wash in the microscopic low spots of the clear flat finish and act as a filter- changing the color of your base coat.

typically my weathering steps are:

paint

dry brush

clear acrylic gloss

(decal if required)

Oil wash

flat coat

 

other media can be introduced as well as appropriate if needed. For this Eagles bay 5, I used an acrylic filter to adjust the color after the base coat. Any pigments would be applied after the flat coat.

 

HTH

Pete

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An accurate ACES II is not as easy to achieve as you might expect. Most have shape/size issues. The best out there is the old Cutting Edge seat.

But even the Cutting Edge seat has its issues. To get it right, I replaced the rails with the Tamiya seat rails; cut away from the kit seat with a razor saw. The pitot tubes and canopy penetrator are also from Tamiya.

The fuzzy seat cover was replicated by first filling the gaps between seat back quilting with water putty. Then several heavy layers of Mr. Surfacer 1000; allowing each layer to dry thoroughly until the back pad was smooth. The last layer of Mr Surfacer was stippled-on with a short, stiff brush to create the fuzzy texture. The pad is typically more matted in the middle from the pilots body and fuzzier at the edges-

8JcMA77.jpg

EFOFdZP.jpg

 

cheers

P

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