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1/24 scale DHC-2 Beaver actual build


CrankyCrafstman
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 Hey all

 Well here we go, I'll start by posting some pictures.

20191122_184821.jpgthis is all you get. It has very fine raised rivets and lines. Not to many lines, so easy enough to rescribe. I don't think it will be that hard to cut out the windows, but it will be tricky to make the front wind screens as they cruve around a corner. I'm not sure if I'm going to make the bulged windows in the gargo doors or not.

20191122_184844.jpgthe engine isn't bad for what you get. I think I can modify it to look more correct without too much trouble. I have some 1/24 P&W emblem decals for it that will help.

20191122_184905.jpgthe prop was not the right diameter and the wrong shape, easy enough fix. It's the correct diameter now 8' 6".

20191122_184929.jpgmodified the lower cowl scope to look like the pictures I got from Jeff. I coated it with some mr. Surfacer 500 not bad I made it from an old 1/32 spitfire desert filter cut down the middle and widened about 3/32".

20191122_185002.jpghere it is mounted on the fuselage.

20191122_185024.jpgthese are the windows and doors that I need to cut out. I'm going to be doing an interior for this. I have to make the complete dash, gauges, yoke, steering wheels, pedals and any other interior stuff, because it dont come with any interior at all. I have some 1/24 PE seats (4) on order they look just like the factor seats for the Beaver. I also have some cast metal door handles and window cranks these are for automotive models but will work fine.

  It's going to be detailed but not crazy detailed. I'm going to concentrate on the outside to be as accurate as I can make it with the info I have. So follow along if you want. I will be jumping between this my 1/24 Mossie and 1/24 Hellcat so wish me luck and come visit me at the looney bin...lol:rofl::rolleyes::omg:

Ron G 

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Hello Ron, amazing! If this is the kit that was sold from a little classified ad in the back of a certain magazine, I've always meant to get one of these; very interested to see what you do with it - best of luck!

blue skies!

Captain Boogaloo

PS there might still be some great references for, er Beavers on the RC Groups website; there is a very accurate 1\10 scale foam electric powered Dh Beaver that some guys have super detailed, including adding cockpit details. When my brain decides to recall exactly what it's called I'll repost!

Edited by Captain Boogaloo
Oh, you know. Brain fade, finger trouble. The usual!
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Hi Ron, further to my last post, check out RC Groups electric scale Arf\rtf  select scale Fly zone DeHavilland  DHC-2 Beaver - I recommend using the 'thread tool's ' bar to see the (ten plus!) Pages of photos, many of which should be some help with your Beaver project.

Blue Skies!

Captain Boogaloo

 

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Thanks Capt.

I'll check it out.

 A small update, but much progress.

20191123_165346.jpgI started cutting out the windows and doors. Starboard cargo door cut out.

20191123_165324.jpgport pilots door cut out, still have to finish cutting out the port cargo door. Added fuel tank door, scribed in.

20191123_165257.jpgport pilots door and starboard gargo door.

20191123_165519.jpgstarboard cargo door cut out. I'm not going to cut the co-pilots door out.

20191123_165744.jpgfront windows cut out.

20191123_170004.jpgthis is one of the PE seats that will go in the aircraft. I have four of these and will be adding cushions to them and seat belts.

20191123_170022.jpganother view of the seat.

20191123_170110.jpgseat next to the fuselage. Well thats it for now time for dinner.

Ron G 

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Got a little more done. I went to the LHS and picked up some things to make or replace the kit parts. Here's what I got.

2)  3/16" aluminum airfoil tubes. These will be used to make correct wing support struts and the pieces that connect the floats to the fuselage. I also got a 1/4" aluminum ai inrfoil tube that I was going to use for the wing support struts, but I think it's a little to big so I'm going to use the 3/16" ones for those. I also got some .02" x .06" and .03" x .06" plastic strip that will be used for the flap and aileron hinges. Also got a 3/16" round aluminum tube for the float to float attachment struts. Also Some 1/8" x1/8" plastic angles for the steps on the float to fuselage struts.

20191124_200113.jpgmade the red beacon on the top from some clear red acrylic rod. It's just held in with some Tamiya tape I won't install it permanently until the end.

20191124_200132.jpggot the exhaust pipe made from some 1/4" aluminum tube and a piece of 9/32" tube for the heat exchange cover.

20191124_200153.jpganother view of the exhaust pipe. You can see the modified lower intake scoop and the new position of the oil cooler scoop.

20191124_200215.jpggot the other cargo door cut out. And I finished scribing allthe access hatches and covers. I still have some long lines to scribe.

20191124_200235.jpgdug through some of my old kits looking for a three bladed prop.  Tah..dah! This one is from an old Revell 1/32 p-38 kit. All I did was flaten the ends a little and it's perfect.

20191124_200255.jpganother view showing prop on the engine, looks good to me. I have to make a spinner for it.

20191124_200320.jpgstole these from the p-38 kit they will be used for the aileron counter weights. Well thats it for now I'll be back when I get some more done.

Ron G 

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2 hours ago, CrankyCrafstman said:

Hey Jeff

 Do you have any more pictures that show as much detail of the steering mechanism for the floats. That is the wires that run along the floats up to the rear of the fuselage to some connection to how you steer it. Not sure how this works, so any and all pictures would be great.

Ron G 

Those are what I was looking for, I 'thought' I did,  I have some stuff for the C 185, but I will have to check with my Alaska expert.....

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Ok I think I have figured out how the steering mechanism for the floats work, I'm not a hundred percent sure but I think I'm right. I'll try to draw a picture to let you know how I think they work.

 I spent the whole day trying to make a three bladed prop and spinner, only to have the whole thing backfire right at the end.:wallbash: So I restarted, luckily I had two p-38 props, the first one got destroyed. :( I took my extra p-38 prop and decided that the blades just weren't right, so what to do? I got my 1/32 Lancaster off of the shelf and took out the needle props, I'll be using the paddles on my Lanc. I cut the mounting end off right were the round shaft starts. Then I cut the props off of the p-38 hub close to the center. Then I measured the blades and cut the square end on them. I then drilled a hole in the end of the props 0.08" dia. And the same in the p-38 hub added some 0.08" plastic rod to the hub and then added the blades, but I think I have them on wrong (its know a pusher prop) I might be wrong but it looks ok so I'm going to let it go. I made the spinner from some 1/48 p-47 fuel tanks, cut, filled, smoothed and polished. Here are some pictures so let me know what you think.

20191125_175321.jpgit looks big but it's the right diameter.

20191125_175700.jpghere it is mounted on the motor.

20191125_175723.jpgangled shot to see the shape of the spinner.

20191125_175910.jpgview from the top down.

Ron G 

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Small update

I got the motor and prop primed in black. I got the wing support struts made, I did use the large airfoil the small one looked wrong compared to photos of the real plane. I temporarily assembled it to see how big it is...its BIG! And I don't even have the floats on.

20191126_181407.jpgfront view showing the wing support struts in place

20191126_181333.jpgveiw showing the  tail planes.

20191126_175942.jpgcloser view of the engine and prop

20191126_112842.jpgI'm kind o leaning towards something like this for a paint scheme. What do you guys think?

Ron G 

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