modelmaker Posted June 26, 2013 Posted June 26, 2013 Stunning work Dave! Pity about the Canopy parts but I'm sure you'll get that sorted. Sean
Dave J Posted June 28, 2013 Author Posted June 28, 2013 A very small update... I have raided the kids pencil case and "borrowed" a brown coloured pencil and I have used it to add some chips and scratches to the prop blades to suggest that it was a wooden blade.
rkranias Posted June 28, 2013 Posted June 28, 2013 really nice work on this "save" bad about the canopy mask. been there....hated it! that prop wear sure works for me...nice.
rkranias Posted June 28, 2013 Posted June 28, 2013 All Glossed up! This is the second time that I used Mr Color GXIII Clear and I loving the stuff! I need to buy shares in this product! What was the thinner used? Mr Color Leveling Thinner? Mr. Color Thinner? Ratio? I am going to give this a try. 1
Dave J Posted June 29, 2013 Author Posted June 29, 2013 Rick, I used PPG Two Way Thinners.... Ratio is different each time due to the temperate conditions in the garage. But normally it' is a 60/40 mixture.
Daywalker Posted June 29, 2013 Posted June 29, 2013 Cheers Dave, your Spitfire looks FANTASTIC!!! Love the USAAC desert Spits, and thanks to you I want to build another one!
Dave J Posted June 29, 2013 Author Posted June 29, 2013 Thanks Franck I know what you mean! The Tamiya Spits are addictive! I am thinking of pulling out the Mk.IX and finishing my 485 Sqdn Build... 1
Wingco57 Posted June 30, 2013 Posted June 30, 2013 About those wooden blades, they were made of compressed wood and resin to make one very hard Material. The leading edge had a brass sheath. The whole blade was covered in a material like Plastic. This was very hard. I used to have an original Spit propblade where some of this covering had Cracked. In that case the blade was not serviceable. So you would never see wood shining through. Hope this makes sense. Cees 1
Dave J Posted June 30, 2013 Author Posted June 30, 2013 Perfect sence Cees! Thanks for that... I will correct that for sure! Luckily I have applied an varnish to the blades yet!
Administrators JeroenPeters Posted June 30, 2013 Administrators Posted June 30, 2013 So can we assume there is detail missing from the Tamiya prop? The brass strip should actually be raised detail. I guess you could chip paint a little on the strip. Here's a pic I snatched from Derek:
Wingco57 Posted June 30, 2013 Posted June 30, 2013 Jeroen, Exactly, it stands proud of the surface. Dave, thanks for your reply, a true modeller. Cheers Cees
NOVAModeler Posted July 1, 2013 Posted July 1, 2013 Looking great for a rescue project! Something I've always wondered about - most of us all finish our WWII camo finishes with a dead-flat finish but looking at these WWII photos it is clear that the planes actually had some degree of shine - check out the cowling and wing root areas on this photo. All Glossed up! This is the second time that I used Mr Color GXIII Clear and I loving the stuff! I need to buy shares in this product! Tape removed and the oval is a way lot better than I was achieve with the Bluetak. Decals are starting to go now... I am using Barracuda Cal's Mk.VIII sheet for the National Insignia and Stencils. And the scheme I'm going with is Bill Skinners, Lonesome Polecat. 1
Wingco57 Posted July 2, 2013 Posted July 2, 2013 Sometimes the groundcrew were instructed by pilot's to wax the aircraft for more speed. Cees
NOVAModeler Posted July 2, 2013 Posted July 2, 2013 Sheen could and did vary wildly based on a number of factors. Paint quality. Operating environment. Operational tempo. Where the plane was based. Baking in the South Pacific or North Africa or getting blasted by UV on high-altitude escort duties or even flying in bad conditions could beat a plane up fast, just like a car on a road trip. Exactly, but this Spit looks pretty used yet it shines in that Italian sun.
Edgar Brooks Posted July 22, 2013 Posted July 22, 2013 Sorry I'm rather late on this topic, but I hope this will help. From August 1942, Supermarine abandoned cellulose paints (except on fabric surfaces,) and went over to a synthetic type, which, while remaining mat, was also smooth; there's a huge tendency to confuse smooth with semi-gloss, satin, or whatever you like to call it, but they were not the same. At around the same time, a new trade, that of Aircraft Finisher, was instituted, and it was his job to maintain the aircraft; at the same time as the new paint started to be used, the leading edges of the wings were "stopped" (filled) and smoothed, so that all rivet "divots," and panel lines vanished, back as far as the mainspar line. Standard treatment was to touch in any damage, then sand with wet-and-dry, followed by a wash-down with clear water (airframes that hadn't dried might well explain some of so-called glossy finish we see in some photos.) Paint was not supposed to be polished, because wax could cause fresh paint to refuse to stick, but that didn't stop pilots doing their own thing. Incidentally, the brass sheath, on the leading edge of a propeller blade, was not supposed to be visible, since it was normally covered by black plastic material; of course wear and tear, and flexing of the blade did cause it to show. Edgar 1
Wingco57 Posted July 22, 2013 Posted July 22, 2013 Hi Edgar, Good to see you here, pull up a seat and indulge us with your deep knowledge. Cees
Dave J Posted July 22, 2013 Author Posted July 22, 2013 Glad to see you have joined us Edgar! Thanks for that info!
Dave J Posted July 25, 2013 Author Posted July 25, 2013 And I am calling this done.... more pics here - http://forum.largescalemodeller.com/topic/1122-tamiya-mkviii-spitfire-lonesome-polecat-lt-bill-skinner-308thfs/
Showtime 100 Posted August 20, 2013 Posted August 20, 2013 What a save! Awesome finish to the Spit, Dave!
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