Wumm

Oh, apparently not Jim... Elsewhere, Andreas Beck has us all rushing out and selling our Trumpeter two-seaters on eBay. Because Revell's R&D is just that good. Of course there's no gun bulges on the top of a Me262 cowl to cock up though... S

Even if they do, it will need to be spectacular to better the Trumpeter version, which is perhaps their best 1/32nd scale kit to date. S

Yes... You've been banned. This is why you can't see your posts here but everyone else can. It's also probably the reason that most of your photos from other sites like LSP and Britmodeller have also disappeared. It has nothing whatsoever to do with an issue with your choice of image sharing host or perhaps an excessive consumption of alcohol. It's all a LSM's fault. S

A lovely result Ralph... Very atmospheric finishing, gives off a real sense of late-war colours and weathering. S

All jokes aside though... Wearing gloves when handling resin is quite prudent, the stuff is highly carcinogenic. An unusual set, but something you might see a group of diorama figures sat around playing cards perhaps? S

Mish... To try and clear some of the confusion... The Revell G-6 upper cowl that comes within the kit, has fuselage bulges that are too small, and gun troughs that are too close together. There are aftermarker resin products that can be purchased to correct these issues. The Revell G-10 kit also has the gun troughs too close together, and some other minor shape issues, that can also be addressed with aftermarket resin products. Also, the Revell G-10 only comes with large over-wing bulges, which is incorrect for the markings choices that Revell included in the kit. The Erla G-10 was also manufactured with small over-wing bulges, which can be purchased aftermarket or sourced from their G-6 kit if you have both. Aftermarket decals are also available for schemes that featured the larger wing bulges if you so desire. None of these issues will stop you building the kit straight from the box, nor will they be important to the majority of Modellers. HTH, Steve.

Mike, Are you referring to the aplique-style panels of the early pressurised Erla A/S machines? AFAIK, all subsequent G-6/G-14 had the same engine cowlings as the later G-10's. S

When it comes to Wives... Is no substitute for actual laundering. Apparently... S

Some lovely items there... Nice solid review Jim. I wonder whether one could use the Anhanger with a 'Natter? Hmmm...

Oh, that looks sweeet... But at $300, plus postage, that's worth almost an hour with my Solicitor. Plus I'd have to wear a Hazmat suit because of the amount of resin component. But, oh that looks sweeet! S

My technique as follows Mike... Prep and undercoat as required. Apply the paint coat that you want to show through, in this example it's Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver spray can laquer. If your base coat is going to be acrylic, then spray a clear coat of enamel or laquer to seal. Next step is the acrylic top colour... I prepare the desired colour of Gunze or Tamiya from the bottle onto a small Artist's palette, and add to it an amount of pigment mixed from Artist's water-colour pencil eyeballed to match the bottle colour. The amount added depends on how hard you want the top colour to be; my example here is a simple experiment, half-half Tamiya black and pencil pigment wicked from the pencil tip with a broad brush. More added pigment = easier to wear away. Add the top colour, I use a heavily loaded brush but airbrushed on would work just as well I'm guessing. The drop tank I've used makes it easy to do in sections, which breaks the task up somewhat. While the paint is still wet, use a toothpick to add hard chips in the desired areas. After the paint has dried, the porous nature of the water-colour pencil component lets you easily wear away the top colour with a just water-damp Q-tip - no solvent required. Finally, when you're happy with the result and after the top coat has dried completely, seal with clear enamel or laquer. Might not be everyone's cup of Tea, but there you go! S

Objection! My honourable Colleague is leading the Witness... Whether any kit is "Too short" is far too subjective and relies on many factors; what you're comparing the kit to and the source of that information, how much you're paying for said kit, and the skill sets you possess vs the /time/value/effort equation any modifications would require. However... If you're asking does the new KH P-39 kit match the length given from published Manufacturer's dimensions when reduced to 1/32nd scale, then the answer seems to be "No." S

Yeah, but I wouldn't sweat it Jim, There's the usual 3 options: a spare from the Hasegawa kits, scratch your own or leave it as is. And it's not that it's so noticeable, the Revell kit's been out 6 months or more and I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else. S

Something I've just noticed... As exquisite as the Eduard cockpit set is (and it really is spectacular in it's detail), it is lacking the correct back armour piece for the blown canopy option, which is a slightly different shape and has a round padded headrest at the top. Eduard seems to have only looked at updating the parts actually present in the Revell kit, as this too only has the one armour plate option included despite having a choice of clear rear canopy parts. S

Yes... Yes I do. It's mostly written, just got to get ahold of a computer, as Picassa won't let me upload from the phone. S

Not line drawings as such Mike... But, a little general information on this page... http://www.luftarchiv.de/flugkorper/blitz.htm And some actual photos with possible markings options here... http://falkeeins.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/focke-wulf-190-sg-77-panzerschreck.html?m=1 HTH, Steve

Sounds like a plan... Just don't know if I should do the Revell F-8 for this one, or save it for the possibility of it maybe having it's own G/B down the track? Decisions... S

Well, That's practically all I do Mike, so I might have a look. S

Very nicely done Pastor John... You've used the Hasegawa Fw190 kit I see? S

Non binding eh... Which means I'd better get my act together? S

I wouldn't sweat it Mike... I mean, you don't eat the same thing for dinner every night do you? Variety is the spice of life! My list is: 1/32 Zoukei-Mura Ta152H-1 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190D-9 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190A-8 1/32 Hasegawa Bf109 (various x4) 1/32 PCM Macchi C205... and 1/32 Revell Fw190F-8 and 1/32 Hasegawa Fw190F-8 (Building in tandem and thanks to Rog/Artful69) We'll get there some day! S

OMG... I thought you meant the Garfield Gus. Photo bomb! S

An English City called Bath...? That's much like calling a town in Australia "Culture"! S

Wonderful Mike... Can't wait to see what you've completed already to this point in time. S

Think ragged... Rather than jagged edges Mike. Extant images where the camo pattern is visible seem to show a softer version of the similar demarcation used on the earlier G-models. However they are not the distinctive saw-tooth lines as before, nor are they simple straight demarcation lines either, but somewhere in between. Often the change in camouflage colour can't be made out, possibly due to the darker version of RLM 75 Erla chose/was forced to use later in the war, which appears quite close to the RLM 74 in black and white period photos. S