DocRob

Thank you all, the battery / alternator area proved to be very difficult to finish, so far the hardest part of the build. The space is crammed and the alternator needed some wiring and the battery of course too. The wiring consists from normal electric wire and needs very tiny bended PE fittings at the ends, which have to be mounted with equally tiny rivets . It´s also hard to determine the length of the wires, which needed to be pre fabricated. After a lot of cursing and test fitting, I finally made it. Pictures will follow. Cheers Rob

I added the ignition wiring, spark plugs and the mysterious third wire, which leads to the hidden condenser coil, the shift rods and gearbox. The alternator and battery are finished, but only mounted temporary, to determine the length of the wiring. The only "AM" used is the tiny bracket, which holds together the ignition wiring. I fabricated it from tin of a wine bottle cap. So far no real worries except a wrong aligned part (my fault), which needed to be pried loose. Luckily I was test fitting the following assemblies and noticed it. Electrical wiring is a bit tedious, as there are tiny PE parts to bend, to accept the un-isolated wire, which easily slips out before gluing. You learn to like Tamiya manuals, where they show you the length of the wires, but apart from that, the MFH manual is pretty clear and easy to understand. Cheers Rob

We´ve all been at this point Peter, no mojo left for finishing the actual project and no desire to start the next in the row. It even happens to me with nothing like a fixed path of subjects, only building aircraft. I need permanent change to keep me interested and I hate redundance. You spoke about your situation and I like your approach to start a new adventure, no matter what is the outcome. To me modeling has become a very important hobby, not only for the results and the time spent, but also as a tranquilizing factor in times, when other things in live were not in sync and helped me through difficult phases in the past. Sometimes, when I´m in a modeling slump, it feels, like I owe something to the hobby and it will keep me sane with future problematic phases. It helps to fuel the spirit and start over again, even better, like you did with an empty desk - do something new approach. I have only the experience of my 1/350 USS Arizona build under my build, considering plastic ship modelling and this was a challenging project due to the poor plastic quality, but it was a lot of fun also and I learned a lot of new skills and techniques. I have only two more 1/350 kits in my stash, but some vessels in larger scale, like the Revell 1/144 Flower Class Corvette along a nice Pontos set and I look forward to build this one. I also have my eye on the 1/200 IJN Mikasa, as I like the older shaped ships a lot and the early livery of Mikasa is quite colorful. I wish you tons of fun with the destroyer and all that brass and maybe there is a sea base in the looming, a thing I never tried. Cheers Rob

Muchas gracias amigos, good plastic motorcycle kits do look great, but what separates the metal kits is the weight of the material, which adds another dimension. Besides, it´s fun to leave the aluminum parts unpainted, the white metal looks the part. Cheers Rob

Nice progress with the started painting phase, Chris. I hear you on faded or not. A bit of fading should enhance the look of the finished model, I think. Cheers Rob

Fantastic result FA, the Russian heavy metal came out great. I like the wear and weathering a lot as well as all the tiny details, which pop the eye. Cheers Rob

I achieved some important progress today, marrying the engine and the frame. Luckily casting precision and design is very good and I had only a little wiggling to do, while join the numerous connection points of the engine bearing plates to the engine. The frame itself needed some bending, to accept the engine, which I did before painting. The cast material is durable but easy to bend an very good to work with, luckily. Cheers Rob

Excitement finally granted, Martin , you were right. The Crockers were all hand built and not two of them were equal. The ignition system varied with two different types, magneto or distributor type. The ominous third wire leads to a condensor coil, which is shown on your pic. Earlier ´Small tank´versions of the Crocker had that coil behind the engine under the seatpost. The later model had it often hidden under the tank, or like on your pic in front of the engine. I cannot say from my sampled pictures, how the original configuration looked and which are modified later on. Over on Modelshipworld, there were some very knowledgeful fellows, who added a lot of information in my mirrored build thread. Cheers Rob

Thank you Carl, the wiring is just the beginning. There are more fuel lines, some steering cables, the ignition wiring and the shifting mechanism to be done. Until now, I finished only the later hard to reach lines, manipulating the engine with all the wiring and tubing would be difficult. Cheers ROb

Thank you Phil, I guess, the final weight will be about one kilogram, but the metal engine feels weighty. There are two stands with the kit, a side stand and a rectangular stand for the rear wheel. Cheers Rob

A fantastic looking big bird, Martin. Everything is coming together now and the layered weathering is amazing. The turret barrels caught my eye as well as Hubert´s, hopefully it´s only caused by the wide angle lens. Cheers Rob

After airbrushing the frame with Tamiya LP-1 gloss black, I continued with the engine. I added the carburetor and some fuel lines, which are hard to reach later. The engine is more or less finished now and will be mounted into the frame next. Cheers Rob

Thanks Martin and Hubert, this picture shows my configuration with the distributor. The third wire vanishes somewhere under the tank, like shown in the manual as well. Cheers Rob

Thanks for the photo, Martin, my Crocker´s set up is different from the pic, yours show the magneto version, mine has the smaller distributor. Said cable goes up under the tank, possibly to one of the both ignition keys?????? Cheers Rob

I built up the frame from it´s various parts, which again included lots of drilling and leafing through the manual, to see, which diameter is needed for a hole and what´s going in. Luckily the precision of the casting is fantastic and there are only minimal irritations in the parts. Here is a mock up with the engine mounted into the frame. Meanwhile said frame is primed and the missing carburetor parts got airbrushed. Cheers Rob

Thank you Peter, I have lots of fun working with metal for a change, but you are right, precision and a good plan are needed to tackle these kits. Cheers Rob

Pst Hubert, you discovered the secret, why the Crocker was so fast, the hidden third cylinder . The third wire leads somewhere into the front, but the manual does not show, where exactly. About the function, I have no idea. Cheers Rob

The last build sequence was a bit fiddly, with wiring the spark plugs with tiny etched parts and micro rivets, followed by the distributor, which consists of about 20 parts, a lot need to be pre drilled for various installments. There are two variants and I chose the more complicated. The magneto has a fewer parts count, but looks odd and the pictures I have of the real bike always have the distributor installed. I prepared the wires, but add them later, when the engine meets the frame. And that´s how tiny the distributor is, you find it on the left side of the engine, lower middle. Cheers Rob

Never played lotto my whole life, Phil, but I´m tempted now . Maybe these AIMS roundels are a way for your Camel of the SOD. I´d like to see it in full bloom. Cheers Rob

Today feels like Christmas in May. I was lucky enough to score one of the only 200 Model Factory Hiro 1/12 kits of The Williams FW16 Special edition. Sale started at 07:00 pm JST on May 07 and a quarter of an hour later, there was a massage, all were sold. What a relieve, to receive an email some hours later, that my request was successful. MFH released that kit some years ago, but revised a lot of parts for this edition. Decals are Cartograph printed now and include the bubu sponsor decals hidden in a separate envelope. Now there are three sheets of carbon decals (formerly one) and some of the resin parts were revised, where the carbon structure was casted on. Also with this release, the complete engine is made from white metal parts, no resin parts, like in the former release. MFH added masking templates and a 1/12 resin figure of a standing Ayrton Senna and beautifully etched nameplate. Not as spectacular, but nonetheless very welcome were a lot of decal sets for different WWI projects. For my soon to start in between build of the Meng 1/24 Fokker DR.I I added Aviattics Joseph Jacobs livery. Sidenote, not all DR.I were red . But my WNW Le Rhone Camel will be red with this set of Aviattic decals I also added etched bracing wire for testing with the Camel and fitting resin bracing clamps from AIMS and British Roundels for different WNW kits, because I often read, the kit supplied decals for the roundels are prone to tear. Some HGW plywood for my Albatros D.VII. This is a new edition and I hope they work well. I have not the best experiences with HGW decals to say the least. If they fail, it´s oil colors. Lastly some lozenge for my 1/72 Eduard Fokkers, also a nice in between build and Aviattics interpretation of lozenge schemes looks so much superior to the Eduard kit decals. Not shown, two sheets of Aviattic French linen decal for my Copper State Caudron G.III. Cheers Rob

Thank you Peter, with every step, the engine will be more and more difficult to handle. I guess only the distributor itself consists of more than a dozen parts. I managed to break off larger parts during handling, while correcting the carburetor tube. I guess, I not helped myself to easiest of MFH kits, due to the super detailed and part heavy heart piece engine. Cheers Rob

The Viggen looks fantastic with the decals on. Lately I had some decal madness, first with the carbon decals on my McLaren and later with the Wingnut AEG´s night lozenge. Like with yours, some of the decals didn´t settle perfectly with Micro Sol and I was forced to use something stronger. In his build book about the AEG, Karim Bibi mentioned to dilute the strong Mr. Mark Softener with some drops of water. I tried and it worked with my lozenge decals, also printed by Cartograph. I hope you had time to spend in beautiful Edinburgh, a place, I want to re visit sooner or later on a future Scotland trip. Cheers Rob

Neat and clean, Peter, she looks like a nice Mustang right now. Good you figured the canopy types. I have only the Zoukei Moura Mustang, where the three different canopies are described in the manual. You may want to look for. The manual is available on Scalemates. 272083-44-instructions.pdf (scalemates.com) Cheers Rob

Good to hear no one get hurt around and your home and goods were spared. What a destruction in such short time, Cheers Rob

I added more details to the engine and also prepared the distributor. Drilling the tiny oil tube connectors proved tricky. They need to be drilled to accept the oil tubing made from solder wire. Most of the screws shown on the casings are separate parts and also need to be pre drilled and then inserted. The manual suggests to add the oil tubes next, but I will do it later, because handling the still not finished engine would be a nightmare with the soft wiring on. Luckily the places for the tubing should be reachable later. I also added some dots of black panel wash here and there to enhance contrasts. Cheers Rob