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DocRob

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  1. DocRob
    Thanks, I will give that a try, the harder, the better. Cheers Rob After 24 hours nothing went away on mine, before I do anything, there will be another day, but I don't think it will self cure. No CO2 in my Klear , be it IPA or not, but for apres modelling... Cheers Rob
  2. DocRob
    Thanks a lot, nice wording with the c/Klear . I will try to dab on some Klear in a hidden area for testing and will prepare some test parts soon, which will receive a heavy dose of Micro-Sol, after waiting longer for the Klear to cure. Cheers Rob
  3. DocRob
    I used warm water for the stencils and it seemed to have worked with the HGW wet transfers, puh, there are thousands of them abd til now, I applied only the bottom ones. For bigger decals, which have to follow contours of panel lines, don't put lots of Micro-Sol on, just dab a little bit onto the decal, avoiding the paintjob, this will work. If they are not laid down enough, it's better to repeat the application. I haven't done so, because I never ran into this problem before, lessons learned. Cheers Rob
  4. DocRob
    Have you ever tried them dampened, that is an area, where I like them even more, than in dry use. You can work with them like a multi colored wash, amazing. Cheers Rob
  5. DocRob
    Hola Señhores, I need your help. Yesterday I decaled my Mig-31 and after dabbing off the residues of Micro Set and Sol got some white clouding in the clear coat around the decals, which are still there after cleaning everything again with clear water and let it dry over night. The gloss coat under it is Klear, which should be similar to Future and left to dry 24 hours before decaling. I suspect, it's more the Sol's application, as I applied some stencils only with Set and can't find any irritations there. My Mig nearly did the dart stunt, but I hope there are suggestions, about what to do from you. I'm considering to try to apply some Klear on the said areas, but am not sure about that. Cheers Rob Here is the worst decal And these are the culprits
  6. DocRob
    I can even see, that there are some exhausts missing , second best thing after the invention of the wheel John. Now we will see the fastest quality builds in Hi-Res. Cheers Rob
  7. DocRob
    The Mig is not a tailsitter anymore . I managed to get the rest of the liquid mask off the Mig, a terrible task, as the Micro mask tends to get harder to remove as longer it's applied. I sprayed the dark grey parts on the tail and the nose cone and some black patches around the canopy and now it starts to look like a big ugly Mig. Cheers Rob
  8. DocRob
    Thank you Mike for taking us on the ride. Like always it was a pleasure to follow your build, with all the reference and skillful scratching/modelling of yours. This time was different to me, because I built a pair of 1/48 SSW's parallel to your build. It was coincidence, because mine were more testbeds to learn new techniques, than your artful masterpiece, but I learned a lot, not only building wise, but about the original too. When I'm grown up, I may build a 1/32 SSW as well, because I simply like the design of the plane and the colourful paintjobs. Cheers Rob
  9. DocRob
    With normal liquid mask, there are a lot of options, like you said. I tested some of them with my Micro-Mask stuff and it didn't work. It is really hard to remove, but for my purpose it's ok. The stuff is thinner than Maskol and easier to apply in very fine patterns. There is no way around the toothpick method and for small residues I use a stiff flat brush. Cheers Rob
  10. DocRob
    Thanks for the pic Martin, It looks like they made that bird looking like mine , but they finished panel lining and decaling. Cheers Rob
  11. DocRob
    Thanks Martin, I don't try to replicate something from pictures with this build, instead, I use my imagination and I have no idea, how the Mig will look in the end. By reviewing the pictures, the beast looks a little like made out of marble, or something lying underwater , but I hope, in the end, I will have a convincing finish. Cheers Rob
  12. DocRob
    Thanks Gus, one way or another the unwanted scratches will be addressed. I hope the later to apply wash will not be to harsh contrast wise, the panel lines are very well accentuated on the Mig. Cheers Rob
  13. DocRob
    Nice, I will follow your progress with the Scammell. I have the Artillery tow Scammell in stash and will do it in a sinister fantasy circus wagon version, when I think, I'm able to paint the lansquenet figures, I've planned for my dio. Cheers Rob
  14. DocRob
    After four hours of scratching away the masking fluid out of the panel lines, I have to make a break. The way, I wanted to get the finish, turned out to be a painful and time consuming way, but the results are worth it, I think. One half is done, the other is for tomorrow . As you can see; I got some unwanted scratchmarks as well, but these will be addressed later. First I thought about dabbing on some paint very carefully, but then decided, that I will try to sand these areas with a very fine sanding sponge in the direction of the airflow. Cheers Rob
  15. DocRob
    The pre shading makes the otherwise dull grey coating look interesting, great job with the painting. Cheers Rob
  16. DocRob
    That pit s looking great. The wear and tear is hinting, heavy used air tractor. Cheers Rob
  17. DocRob
    A big muchas gracias to the inspirator to this painting method. Your A-7 laid the path for my Mig treatment. Cheers Rob
  18. DocRob
    Thanks Harv, I'm still in the experimental stage. Thanks Gus, love the word 'sameness' . I will google your masking liquid. The one I used is Micro Mask from Microscale, which is a little thinner than other fluids. I just read , that they say 'cleans up with water', maybe I should have given the bottle a little bit more attention. I will try it tomorrow with toothpicks and with a dampened piece of cloth. Thanks Gaz, I let my imagination fly, while I developed this method. I never looked for pics of the real thing though. I'm at least as interested in my progress as you, and hope there will be a usable outcome . Cheers Rob
  19. DocRob
    Marathon session today, I applied the Mig-31 grey onto the beast, using stretched steel wool to get an irregular pattern. I sprayed every panel individually, holding the steel wool above, filling the panel gently, moved the wool a little, to alter the pattern and sprayed again. I have to say, I like the method, the steel wool is highly flexible and bends into every corner. If the contrasts are too hard after peeling of the liquid mask, I can give the whole plane a misty coat of Mig-gray Cheers Rob
  20. DocRob
    Phew, four hours of dabbing masking fluid on every single panel line the big Mig looks like that. I hope, I get all the masking fluid removed after painting, not so easy with that blue stuff. It's thinner than Maskol and that is why I used it here, but it's a pain to get off. Cheers Rob
  21. DocRob
    Thanks Ernie, I like the look too, if it's to bad, there is always the possibility to mist everything over. To get rid of the mask residues is no walk in the park, so I wanted to be sure, if that's a proper way to do it. A wash will make the weathering three dimensional, I hope. Cheers Rob
  22. DocRob
    Today I experimented a lot, to get the look of my worn Mig-31 right. I want to break up the all over light grey appearance. I tried on a dummy first and started a little test area on the lower wing. I'd like to know what you think about the effects used (it's only painting, no washes or filters yet) I applied masking fluid with a fine brush, irregular onto the panel borders and tried to avoid the rivets, because they are hard to clean from masking residue Then I sprayed AK real colour MIG-31 grey through coarse steel wool to get irregular paint patterns. After peeling the masking wit different shaped wooden toothpicks and tweezers it looks like this. Peeling everything cleanly is a time consuming job, but necessary for a later wash and it's easy to scratch the surface (I did), so the peeling process has to be done with a lot of concentration. The same area with better lighting The tip of the wing got treated for better estimate of the used effect Cheers Rob
  23. DocRob
    The grey beast got grey primer . Initially I planed to use some black acrylic primer, but while thinking about my plans for painting and harsh weathering the thing, I changed my mind to the more durable Tamiya rattlecan primer. These plans are: - spray a slightly lighter or darker (not yet decided) grey tone on the panel lines. - apply some masking fluid into the panel lines with a little bit of irregularity. - spray the final coat of grey colour slightly mottling (if I find a way splattering in irregular patterns or use the salt technique) panel wise - rub the masking fluid off - a light overall mist, to reduce contrasts - Panelliner after decaling If you have suggestions for my treatments, you are welcome to leave some comments here, because there are many firsts for me. I haven't forgotten the workflow of the Clansmen A-7 here and am robbing the WIP Cheers Rob
  24. DocRob
    I will never buy vinyl masks again, here it was an issue of availability. They might work on fuselages or wings, but for canopies it has to be kabuki, which dosen't shrink and is easier to get into hard to reach corners. Cheers Rob
  25. DocRob
    Bring it on, we have a 'non LSM WIP or completed' section here, which some of us frequently use. I even had a 1/144 build there once . Cheers Rob
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