DocRob

I like the look a lot, a bit on the dark side, but will look fantastic under some dense trees, with toned done grounds and plane, to enhance the realistic lighting. Cheers Rob

You could display a 1/32 B-52 beside your B-24 and it wouldn't be noticed . Indeed an eye catcher. The paintjob looks great and definitely unique, well done. Cheers Rob

Thanks for the review Fran, the book seems to be very comprehensive and should be a nice source of how to's for AFV, dioramas and figures. I will not buy it though, because with that kind of assumed price tag, to me it's to biased towards Valejo products. No wonder here, since they produce the book, but even with most of the AK books, the builders/artists use different kind of products, wich is interesting for me, as there are products within the Valejo range, which I use happily and others, where my experiences have been not too good. Painting and weathering has a lot to do with the used products, besides of course skills, techniques and creativity. To me focusing seemingly on only one producer is shortening the subject for one very important part. Cheers Rob

Chipping looks great to me and certainly not overdone. I like the chipping multi coloured like you did it, with some bare metal some corrosion and some abrasion. The cupola looks gorgeous, like Phil said. Cheers Rob

Nice and smooth work with all that filling. With the silver coating it looks stunningly beautiful. Cheers Rob

I miserably failed with the finish, German pilots polished the floats with their toothbrushes seemingly Cheers Rob

Somewhere I read, that it's possible to stretch the mid section of cotton swabs over a flame as tubes for turnbuckles, but never tried it. Cheers Rob

Si Cheers Rob

Thanks Jeff, I will specialize in floats . It's all about multiple layer hairspray technique and after sealing that, it's oils for weathering and imagination about how to weather with algae and salt residue. I wonder if there has been a real Kamel in this state of neglect, given the island of Sylt belonged to Prussia . Cheers Rob

That's a tough situation Phil, and I hope it will be better soon. You don't have to go the expensive way though, just use brass micro tube with the inner diameter of 0,3 and outer diameter of 0,5 mm. With a scalpel rolling, you cut ca. 0,3-0,5 cm (depending the type of turnbuckle) length from the tube and don't forget to clean the holes with a micro drill. The eylets can be made of thin wire by yourself, use a small metal hook, bend the wire around and twist the hook. Cut the twisted part and you have an eyelet. Sounds complicated, it isn't so much. It takes some effort, but it's well wort it. For easier rigging, you can glue in all the eylets into pre drilled holes and then rig all the wires from the upper wing first. After assembling the upper wing onto the struts, you have to do the rigging only on the lower wing to complete the process. Cheers Rob

Beautifully done, love the weathering and the heavily used look. By the way, welcome to LSM, make you feel comfortable among us plastic addicts. Cheers Rob

Hi Phil, I didn't mean tensioning with heat, I meant using turnbuckles like Bob's or self made ones cut from micro tube. First you thread the Chameleon line through a micro tube with inner diameter of 0,3mm, then through the anchor point/eyelet and again (a bit fiddly) through the micro tube. When you pull the Chameleon line taut with tweezers, they are almost self fastening and a drop of CA makes that permanent. Rigged this way, the rigging becomes kind of a structural element and gives more rigidity. I hope my babbeling is understandable . Cheers Rob

Nice figure painting skills, impressive work. I have actually started the figures for The Hansa Brandenburg build and think, how should I... Cheers Rob

Looking mighty good Phil, CDL looks great. Chameleon rigging is eye testing, but very rigid and helps to support the structure. That from a near newb with two WNW builds and two 1/48 WWI SSW's . Cheers Rob

Extremely nice, could do with better pics though . Cheers Rob

Nice and shiny, always a great feel to have buried all the problematic areas under a coat of paint and not being able to spot them anymore . Cheers Rob

Like Phil said, lots of bravery with the canopy. I've done it once with lots of Dymo tape as guideline and Kabuki for general protection. It worked, but was wearing my nerves also. Yours should look perfect with a coat of paint. Cheers Rob

Lovely, I like the contrast between the olive green PC and the sky blue. Looks much more appealing than the brown livery. I will keep it in mind when I reach mine, while stash digging. Cheers Rob

I second that, when I built my TA-152, I absolutely hated the heavy rasterized PE IP. When I put it into the fuselage, I found that without an endoscope it's not even visible and with some cursing about the quality of the product,I used it. For glazing bezels I use Pledge on a toothpick and apply it at least two times, which looks good to me. Cheers Rob

Thanks Carl, there seems to be some echo about the dio . I'm not so sure, when it will happen. I was planning my first acrylic water display for my 1/48 Walrus, beside a life raft. Let's see, first the figures and if they look ok, then maybe.... Muchas Gracias Harv, great kit, great result, the quality of the plastic and engineering makes it easy to score. Cheers Rob

Nice detail work Jeroen and great looking wheel wells. I have to second harv, these hinges look absolutely fiddly. I wish you luck to get them assembled to the fuselage without probs. Cheers Rob

What's wrong with you Carl, you got followed by scale submarines, sent wrong packages to draw you into the LHS, what is next, an Alien handing you the last existing WNW kit for some dough . We are among us here in LSM or is your wife peeking? I think you are a role model as a SuperExcuser . You have my deepest respect for that . Cheers Rob

When I built my TA-152 I used the concept notes as reference. It contains nice detail museum pics of a TA-152 waiting for restoration, which were very helpful and different step to step builds of the kit. There are also removable 1/48 scale drawings included. The downside is, they use an ultra tiny font for the English text, with capitals not even reaching 1,5mm height . The format of the book is smaller than A4 format for comparison. I also own the CN for the Horten, where the font is a tad larger and readable without a microscope. Cheers Rob

Thanks Gaz, it looks almost Greek , maybe a bit overdone, but it was the look I was after. Muito obrigado for your kind words Hubert, the fun I had while building erased my bad taste, because I was not able to buy a W.29 instead. After building the W.12, I like it even better. Thank you Bill, the Lozenge was relatively easy done, with the great Aviattic decals, which were problem free, even given the large areas to cover. Some hints of how to prepare the szurfaces, I sourced here, for example from Mike 'sandbagger'. Tamiya Smoke for preshading over Tamiya gloss white seems to be a good combination, with the needed high shine finish. In the end I liked the contrast, between the printed wing Lozenge and the 'painted' fuselage and tail Lozenge, where I used the kit decals, which were less forgiving. The tail plane made me wonder too. First I thought WNW had overseen something, but I couldn't discover any mechanism on photos too, very strange. Cheers Rob

Muchas gracias Phil, these great kits make it easy to achieve good results, you can fully concentrate on painting, decaling and weathering and of course rigging, which is easy with the Kamel, but not so with the Camel, I guess. I still have to build a British plane with flat double wire rigging and these boring PC-tones, but I don't know if it will be a Camel, Snipe or the 1/48 F.K.8, but definitely not the Fe2b , that's for later when I'm completely tranquilo. I'm sure your Camel will look great, don't doubt yourself, just do it, mate Cheers Rob