Bill_S

.50 inches in 1/48 is 0.0104 inches (0.5/48) 0.0104 inches equates to .333 inches in 1/32 scale (0.0104*32) Keep in mind that's bore size, not OD. As long as the length is OK, I'd run with it. A true 30 cal bore in 1/32 would be .009375 inches

Landing gear assembled; got the sink holes filled, but some more minor filling to do. Some sub-assembly work done... I don't know how much of this will be visible, but I had to fill ejector pin marks and voids... The wing has had its EPMs filled and sanded. A coat of paint already, too.

Please don't tell the guys in my club...

It would be this guy, John https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/

It is indeed, Ernie - but the two parks are very close to each other. Scott is planning a day in Yellowstone.

Then my advice would be to get to Old Faithful as early as possible. There's a huge parking lot, but later in the day it can be near impossible to find a spot!

Graham, will you be putting these up for sale?

Jackson Hole is a wonderful place! I would recommend more than a day at Yellowstone, though - it's huge!

It's nice to get away, Ernie. I'm looking forward to camping season - where you spend lots of money to pretend you're homeless.

If I could find decals for "The Stars Look Down", I might consider converting Revell's P-51 B for this GB...

No joy on the Beaufighter sheet...

My entry for the Group Build. I never build armor... The kit was started by its previous owner, but I'm confident it's less than 25%.

Thanks for the kind comments, gents! I was pleased with the results of my little exercise. I'll try and get a better picture or two of the results in the near future. In addition to the presentation, I did this because I've recently started on my WNW W.29 - I have a thing for float planes. The instruction callout for "dark wood" is Tamiya XF-70 (Linoleum Deck Brown). After giving the parts this color and my woodgrain treatment, I thought the result was too dark - the grain barely shows up. I'm undecided right now, but I may strip it and start over. I've done wood effects in the past, but this is the first time that I've used the clear orange overspray. While it tends to darken the wood a little, I like the "glow" it gives.

Nice job, Carl!

Hmmm... I have an 88 mm Flak gun somewhere. That Uhu has been sitting in the stash for a while, too.

I don't know about a video tutorial; it's beyond my technical capabilities at the moment. The finished product: Far left is the base color, all varying shades of tan. The top five are Model Master enamels; the lower five are Tamiya acrylics. Second column is with Windsor & Newton Burnt Umber oil applied. Third column has the the oil wiped after about 90 minutes drying time (no Japan drier). My wiping tool of choice is an ordinary cotton swab. You can vary pressure to remove as much of the oil as you deem necessary. After a few days for the oil to dry, I sprayed Tamiya clear orange on the fourth column. I still need to label each base color, but after I present it, it will go on the wall so I can use it to pick base colors. The paints used (in order): MM Radome tan MM Sand MM Armor Sand MM SAC bomber Tan MM RAF Middlestone Tam XF-57 Buff Tam XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan Tam XF-46 Khaki Tam XF-59 Desert Yellow Tam XF-55 Deck Tan

Happy birthday, Mike!

Putting together a little tutorial on how I do woodgrain effects for my local club meeting...

Maybe it's May 7 - next year.

Despite all the bad press, it sure looks like a Liberator. Nicely done, and welcome to LSM!

Definitely interested!

I built the EIII, and it was quite enjoyable. Watching!

Awesome, my friend. Enjoy her day!

Watching with interest. Let the delaminating begin!

Another warm welcome to LSM! Some incredible work there!