GazzaS

Thank you, Jeff! Preparing to Rig: Be warned, some blurry close-up images. One of the tricks passed to me by Bob of Bob's Buckles was to use a bit of tape on your finger tip to hold the small parts when they aren't in your tweezers: The next series of photos are close-ups of the eyelets glued into their positions on the plane. Most of the locations have raised detail as well as molded-in holes. The huge holes are the locator holes for the struts. Also, the control arms for the moving surfaces are thick enough to drill holes into: The next set of photos show the control cables glued into holes in the aircraft: A gratuitous machine gun close-up: Gaz

Only for a short time, from November 84-February 85 while I was waiting for my school seat to open up at NAS Memphis.

Phil, Thank you! Most of the swearing associated with this kit has been while I was on my knees looking for a few dropped parts. They're really nice kits with great fit. The parts count isn't huge or over-engineered. I find the most challenging aspect is that you do things in a different order. For most models decals are very close to the end of the build. Here, they've taken up a big portion of the middle of the build. For the rest of the build I'll have to ensure that no plastic glue hits the decals. Gaz

One of the staples of WWI aircraft for me, is the laminated propeller. I know every plane didn't have one, but I think it's a great detail. You can buy perfect laminated one from some guy in the Ukraine, or even laminate wood yourself. I decided to use one of the four that come with the kit. The upper wing complete except for the cooling louvres on it's underside. The decals have been sealed with Future... basically the whole aircraft. I used the kit's PE jacketed Spandau's. I'll use some metal pigments to highlight the guns after the matte coat is put on the plane. Also, there are two fine lines that go from the engine to the wing. I broke the plastic kit part and replaced it with two pieces of copper wire. I tried to weather the leather cockpit combing. but haven't got it right, still. Once the Future cures, I'll weather the plane and then fit all of the eyelets. Once the eyelets are fitted, I can put the top wing and struts on. Cheers! Gaz

Sorry, Airborne!

Looking good, Tony!

I think the cockpit looks excellent. I can't imagine that it would be dirty.IRL. Always glad to see an update! Gaz

Miniart *SHUDDER*

Great looking build, mate!

Always glad to help. Some day you should consider foil Real NMF without having to ask: "does it really look like metal? Gaz

I have quite a few things with black crosses that would suit... But am already committed to too many group builds. Unless there was P-40B there...

That's a nice start, Rich! Love the seat spring! Gaz

I spent a little bit of time with VMFP-3 at El Toro. I can tell you that the area you've been detailing gets very sooty. Some black washes will hide your CA blobs, or you can try black and dark gray pigments, too. Gaz

That is an amazing amount of work! Very classy!

Thanks Rob. I’ve decided that with any model that unless you have period photos covering every angle, in glorious colour; at some point you just have to do what you want.

It looks green to me....

Excellent job! I'm glad you stuck it out to the finish. Gaz

Well, just spent two aggravating days with decals. The rib tapes were the easy part. More difficult were the edges. I did some research and found two styles in modern photos. I know... "how accurate are these?" you say. Well... I'm not that worried about accuracy, and trying to find good period photos up close is time consuming. Next 2 photos for discussion only. One type of edge is done on this Fokker D.VII. The rib tape material is used, and looks quite neat. Of course, for this to be a viable option your rib tapes on top and bottom have to line up perfectly. The other type I found was on this Pfalz D.XII: I figured to do this method, the wrap-around pieces had to be twice to three times as wide as the rib tapes. So, I went with 2mm wide strips. There were times when I thought that maybe 3mm would have been better. This steep angle shot shows the leading edge wraparound strip to good effect. Just so you know, this wing ain't perfectly straight. The area above the arrow gives you an idea how easy the unprotected edge of the decals is to damage, making the wraparound a necessity. Trying to get it even is very difficult for me. I haven't done much non-decal stuff. Here is the weathered wheels. I'll het them with some green grass stains and some spatters, too. Thanks for looking! Gaz

lol.... that you need to have some in the barn! I'd be afraid to leave them to the mice!

Phrases like this make me wonder just how monstrous some stashes are.

Ahh... nuff said.

Now I looked it up! I'll second your yuk. Here in Australia candies, chocolates, whatever fall under the general category of "lollies". Now I fear a name association has been planted in my brain.

Yes, we know what happens when you type "Hot Models", mate. No need to be ashamed.

It's all because we all love sluts. Gilrs und panzer. The naked or half naked 1/35 girl figures. Japanese dolls with short skirts and tall boots. It's all Bon-Aire wear.

The biggest impediment quickly building any aircraft is the cockpit. And with these LS jets, you have those huge clear canopies. Deep intakes and afterburners want some loving, too.