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BlrwestSiR

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Everything posted by BlrwestSiR

  1. BlrwestSiR
    The cylinder head looks amazing. The individual fins are an interesting approach but I guess it makes it easier than trying to clean up a mould seam from between each one if it was cast as a single part.
  2. BlrwestSiR
    Nice work so far John. I had fit troubles with the cockpit on mine as well.
  3. BlrwestSiR
    The rest of the exterior panels/armour go on next. Here's the first leg down next to the parts for the second. A mobility test. The second leg done. The open panels on the calves. Closeup showing the radiator assembly. So far I've only used cement on 2 pieces. It's all press fit or screws.
  4. BlrwestSiR
    I got the legs finished off. First up was the second foot. I also added the ankles to them. Then the legs inner frame was completed. As g this point I started on the detail bits to the armour panels. There are a set of movable vanes that go on the calves. These are attached to a retractable radiator section.
  5. BlrwestSiR
    Yikes! That's a serious ack-ack hit! What about epoxy putty or Apoxie Sculpt? Those should be able to tackle that plus you can shape it with wet tools before it hardens and save on the sanding time.
  6. BlrwestSiR
    I can totally relate to this. Although my Carpet Monster is sick at the moment so not with me at the bench.
  7. BlrwestSiR
    Great to see the results of using the magnetic tumbler. It really makes quite the difference and probably a lot less work than doing it by hand. HLJ did a tour of the MFH factory and it's impressive to see how they cast the parts and craft the kits. It's from a few years ago but still great to see.
  8. BlrwestSiR
    Helps if I read.
  9. BlrwestSiR
    Nice subject John. Are you using the Trumpeter kit or the newer Revell one?
  10. BlrwestSiR
    That's impressive! Wouldn't have thought of that detail.
  11. BlrwestSiR
    I think I maybe wash the Beat once every other year. The roof doesn't seal that well against the windows so getting it wet means water leaks into the cabin. It sits under a cover most of the time so doesn't get dirty thankfully.
  12. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Gus! Definitely a lot of parts in this build. Part of it is all the moving bits and the way they've made it so you don't need to mask anything if you paint it.
  13. BlrwestSiR
    That's shiny Jeff.
  14. BlrwestSiR
    Sadly so easily true. At least if you believe all the videos out there.
  15. BlrwestSiR
    @ScottsGT, avert your eyes!!!
  16. BlrwestSiR
    He does, doesn't he? The Cutlass is looking great.
  17. BlrwestSiR
    Looking at the Eduard page, the B/D and the C sets look similar except for the colour. https://www.eduard.com/index.php?lang=1&currency=2&mnid=&anid=&listtype=search&searchparam=T-28&cl=search&tpl=&fnc=executefilter&attrfilter[]=&attrfilter[17]=1%2F32 The B/D is listed as discontinued which may explain the lack of availability.
  18. BlrwestSiR
    Hip joint is next. Followed by a pile of bits to make the upper legs. One section done with the parts for the second beside it. Then all the outer armour sections. Everything is trimmed and ready for post shading and touch ups which I'll do today.
  19. BlrwestSiR
    More parts for the feet. I cut them from the sprue, trim and sand them and then do touchup painting before assembly. The parts have too many layers to do painting after assembly. Bandai include some segmented metal chains for added detail. First completed foot.
  20. BlrwestSiR
    It's leg time. Starting at the bottom with the feet. First up was this but which I don't know what you'd call the corresponding but of human anatomy. The upper foot area near the ankle.
  21. BlrwestSiR
    Those look very nice indeed Chris. I have some of the Eduard middles and the one I don't like about them is they cast the fins integral with the middle body but you then have a sizable casting lug to cut off. I ended up breaking a few of the fins off doing so. The separations on the Reskit ones make much more sense from that point. Carl
  22. BlrwestSiR
    I have a number of Dspaie's tools as well. The only one I have been slightly disappointed with us their stainless T-square. It's nicely made but is two parts that you super glue together. That took me by surprise. Hopefully it stays together. They also make paint which I have some but haven't tried yet.
  23. BlrwestSiR
    Paul, I use it over a lacquer base coat. It can be either a clear lacquer or just paint. Here's an example from my Millennium Falcon build. Before the X20A: After: Like you did, I left it alone to dry. They're pretty soft and easily tear if you try to move it. Just to be sure, it's the one with the white cap for acrylic paint. .
  24. BlrwestSiR
    Nice works there Paul. For really stubborn decals, my weapon of last resort is Tamiya X20A thinner. It works but you have to careful using it as things can go wrong very quickly. If you've got a lacquer or enamel base, then it can work miracles.
  25. BlrwestSiR
    Thanks Martin! The plain white would have been just too stark. I'm planning on doing some washes as well to further highlight some of the details that are hard to see.
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