I feel the need... for Shake and Bake... Tamiya StuG

[GazzaS]

Hello friends,

     Would you like a ramekin of StuG with your steak, sir? 

Today I did some mapping with the winter white as well as some textured mud and oil streaking for the mud.  I did some light speckling, too.  Not much I can say that the pictures won't.

 

[Kaireckstadt]

3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Hello friends,

     Would you like a ramekin of StuG with your steak, sir? 

Today I did some mapping with the winter white as well as some textured mud and oil streaking for the mud.  I did some light speckling, too.  Not much I can say that the pictures won't.

 

That looks stunning Gaz! You are a real artist! Perfect winter camo and weathering! 

[DocRob]

And the pictures tell a great story Gaz, I really like your wintery outfit for the Stug.

Cheers Rob

[GazzaS]

2 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

That looks stunning Gaz! You are a real artist! Perfect winter camo and weathering! 

 

2 hours ago, DocRob said:

And the pictures tell a great story Gaz, I really like your wintery outfit for the Stug.

Cheers Rob

Thank you, fellas!

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Winter cammo is so goooooood - lookingfantastic

Keep 'em comin

Peter

[GazzaS]

1 hour ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Winter cammo is so goooooood - lookingfantastic

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Thank you, Peter!  

[GazzaS]

Hey everyone,

    Heavy work on the StuG over the weekend.  A lot of time was devoted to assembling and blackening the Friul Ostketten.  To blacken them, I sunk them into a heated vinegar and salt solution and then dropped in pieces of brass that I had just annealed with a torch.  The solution and heat caused the copper sulfate on the annealed metal to instantly plate the white metal tracks.  This was about 90% effective requiring only a little painting.  The un-blackened 10% were recessed areas where (I'm guessing) release agent was still in place.

I also worked on the body of the StuG using some weathering effects....  with mud.  To make textured mud, I used this formula:

What I hope to show here is two layers of mud.  Dry mud and damp mud.  Both layers are acrylic.

The final layer will be in oils, so the two acrylic layers must be left to dry completely.

I also did two layers on the roadwheels...

And the tracks.  The white spots are from modelling paste that wasn't thoroughly mixed.   They'll be hidden later.

Weathering the hull has continued, too.  I gave the white parts a wash in gray blue and I think it really made a difference.

I also did some sponge chipping.  ...but I wanted it very subtle.

This blue wash was done with oils, so I'm giving it a day to rest and dry before I hit it with a layer of future.

I really need to get onto some figures, too.

 

Happy Easter and Happy Modelling!

[Kaireckstadt]

18 minutes ago, GazzaS said:

Hey everyone,

    Heavy work on the StuG over the weekend.  A lot of time was devoted to assembling and blackening the Friul Ostketten.  To blacken them, I sunk them into a heated vinegar and salt solution and then dropped in pieces of brass that I had just annealed with a torch.  The solution and heat caused the copper sulfate on the annealed metal to instantly plate the white metal tracks.  This was about 90% effective requiring only a little painting.  The un-blackened 10% were recessed areas where (I'm guessing) release agent was still in place.

I also worked on the body of the StuG using some weathering effects....  with mud.  To make textured mud, I used this formula:

What I hope to show here is two layers of mud.  Dry mud and damp mud.  Both layers are acrylic.

The final layer will be in oils, so the two acrylic layers must be left to dry completely.

I also did two layers on the roadwheels...

And the tracks.  The white spots are from modelling paste that wasn't thoroughly mixed.   They'll be hidden later.

Weathering the hull has continued, too.  I gave the white parts a wash in gray blue and I think it really made a difference.

I also did some sponge chipping.  ...but I wanted it very subtle.

This blue wash was done with oils, so I'm giving it a day to rest and dry before I hit it with a layer of future.

I really need to get onto some figures, too.

 

Happy Easter and Happy Modelling!

Wow Gaz I‘m deeply impressed!

The method to blacken the tracks is stunning and simple! Is it your invention? Looks absolutely realistic!

The same applies for the mud. Looks really convincing!

The wash is the thing I like most. It really brings the white to life. And it is subtle what I really like (as on your 190). Good choice to use blue-grey.

I‘m really curious how this all will look after treatment with oils. I‘m also a fan of oil washes because you can really play with color-tone variations and do it subtle.

You should really add some figures and put it on a small vignette. Will look awesome! 

Happy Easter and happy modeling too!

Cheers

Kai

 

[GazzaS]

2 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Wow Gaz I‘m deeply impressed!

The method to blacken the tracks is stunning and simple! Is it your invention? Looks absolutely realistic!

The same applies for the mud. Looks really convincing!

The wash is the thing I like most. It really brings the white to life. And it is subtle what I really like (as on your 190). Good choice to use blue-grey.

I‘m really curious how this all will look after treatment with oils. I‘m also a fan of oil washes because you can really play with color-tone variations and do it subtle.

You should really add some figures and put it on a small vignette. Will look awesome! 

Happy Easter and happy modeling too!

Cheers

Kai

 

Hi Kai,

     Thank you.  The track blackening method was a deductive reasoning from an early soldering attempt.  I realized that when I dipped my recently soldered part into the heated solution (called "pickle" in American parlance) I noticed the lead solder had turned black.

 

   The mud and the wash I credit to "Nightshift".  He makes modelling videos on armor.  He's as entertaining as he is informative.  Check him out on Youtube if you haven't already.

 

I don't have a huge plan for oils up top.  A pin wash and maybe a little white touch ups if required. 

 

Regarding figures...  I don't have any panzertruppen in winter clothes.  Only infantry.  So, they will have to do:

You'll also notice that the diligent crew has recovered the tools that were attached to the missing fender.  A StuG without a starting crank handle is not very useful.

 

Gaz

[Kaireckstadt]

3 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Hi Kai,

     Thank you.  The track blackening method was a deductive reasoning from an early soldering attempt.  I realized that when I dipped my recently soldered part into the heated solution (called "pickle" in American parlance) I noticed the lead solder had turned black.

 

   The mud and the wash I credit to "Nightshift".  He makes modelling videos on armor.  He's as entertaining as he is informative.  Check him out on Youtube if you haven't already.

 

I don't have a huge plan for oils up top.  A pin wash and maybe a little white touch ups if required. 

 

Regarding figures...  I don't have any panzertruppen in winter clothes.  Only infantry.  So, they will have to do:

You'll also notice that the diligent crew has recovered the tools that were attached to the missing fender.  A StuG without a starting crank handle is not very useful.

 

Gaz

Thanks for all the information, Gaz!

I will have a look at the videos from Nightshift on YouTube, thanks for the tipp. 
 

Did you already adapt the figure? Fits very well!

Starting crank really is a useful tool...

[Bomber_County]

Gaz, this is stunning, love your systematic progression of the weathering, this going to be awesome.......congrats...

[DocRob]

The bluish oils add a great touch and make your winter camo even better than before. It's always interesting to see, how a filter or a wash, even in relatively bright color, can make the difference. 

For blackening, which I often do with PE, brass barrels (can't beat that) and white metal tracks. The key is cleaning the parts entirely with alcohol, before putting them in the chemicals and move the bath, to hinder bubbles settling in corners. Residues of CA will also be visible on the tracks. To stop the process with the desired effect, I put the parts onto a paper towel and rinse them with water rapidly.
I use ready mixed black patina for brass and copper, which can be bought by the half liter on big A for Tiffany lamps. It's cheap, lasts for years and can be diluted with water, to have a better control over the effect.

Cheers Rob

[BlrwestSiR]

Great progress Gaz. The tracks, winter wash and weathering look fantastic. Can't wait to see it all tied together along with the figures. 

Carl

[JohnB]

Looking good Gaz. Great winter camo!

[Peterpools]

Gaz

Awesome - your track blackening procedure results look might good and so realistic

Keep 'em comin

Peter

[GazzaS]

16 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Thanks for all the information, Gaz!

I will have a look at the videos from Nightshift on YouTube, thanks for the tipp. 
 

Did you already adapt the figure? Fits very well!

Starting crank really is a useful tool...

I did some chopping and shaving to get them to fit.  I still have to add some left shoulder to the gunner and rotate his right hand a bit.

 

15 hours ago, Bomber_County said:

Gaz, this is stunning, love your systematic progression of the weathering, this going to be awesome.......congrats...

Thank you Phil.  I owe a lot of what I'm doing to Nightshift.  Happily, he happened to be doing mud this week and I've watched the video twice already.

15 hours ago, DocRob said:

The bluish oils add a great touch and make your winter camo even better than before. It's always interesting to see, how a filter or a wash, even in relatively bright color, can make the difference. 

For blackening, which I often do with PE, brass barrels (can't beat that) and white metal tracks. The key is cleaning the parts entirely with alcohol, before putting them in the chemicals and move the bath, to hinder bubbles settling in corners. Residues of CA will also be visible on the tracks. To stop the process with the desired effect, I put the parts onto a paper towel and rinse them with water rapidly.
I use ready mixed black patina for brass and copper, which can be bought by the half liter on big A for Tiffany lamps. It's cheap, lasts for years and can be diluted with water, to have a better control over the effect.

Cheers Rob

Thanks Rob.  Living in Australia makes getting some chemicals problematical.  Plus...  I just spent $1,300.00 on the swimming pool.  I've been trying not to buy anything at all.  That's why I'm using infantry figures instead of the ones you showed me. 

8 hours ago, JohnB said:

Looking good Gaz. Great winter camo!

Thank you, John!

 

6 hours ago, Peterpools said:

Gaz

Awesome - your track blackening procedure results look might good and so realistic

Keep 'em comin

Peter

Thank you, Peter!

[GazzaS]

14 hours ago, BlrwestSiR said:

Great progress Gaz. The tracks, winter wash and weathering look fantastic. Can't wait to see it all tied together along with the figures. 

Carl

Thank you, Carl!

[GazzaS]

Hi Ho, Hi Ho!

     Today's stuG action was the third layer of mud...  done with oils.   The pinwash...  also oils.   And the first oils on the gunner's face and hands.  I'm happy with the pinwash.  Less so with the third mud layer.  I've decided I'm going to have to get some wet effects.  Please pardon the reflection from the Future.  Shiny stuff.

 

 

[Kaireckstadt]

8 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Hi Ho, Hi Ho!

     Today's stuG action was the third layer of mud...  done with oils.   The pinwash...  also oils.   And the first oils on the gunner's face and hands.  I'm happy with the pinwash.  Less so with the third mud layer.  I've decided I'm going to have to get some wet effects.  Please pardon the reflection from the Future.  Shiny stuff.

 

 

Awesome progress Gaz. Looks absolutely stunning after the last 2 steps you did!

Which oils for you use for the hands and faces (supplier and colors)? I want to give it a try! Thanks in advance!

[GazzaS]

13 hours ago, Kaireckstadt said:

Awesome progress Gaz. Looks absolutely stunning after the last 2 steps you did!

Which oils for you use for the hands and faces (supplier and colors)? I want to give it a try! Thanks in advance!

Thank you Kai, I have only used burnt sienna by Holcroft (an art store brand) for the man's face.  The base color is tamiya flesh.  I only have art store oils...  I don't imagine that Mig or AK are any better.

[Jeff]

9 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Thank you Kai, I have only used burnt sienna by Holcroft (an art store brand) for the man's face.  The base color is tamiya flesh.  I only have art store oils...  I don't imagine that Mig or AK are any better.

That's really good info for me as well, Gaz, I have some art store oils as well, but was a little apprehensive on using them.... now I know they will work just fine.... I want to try my hand at oils as well..... I REALLY need to step out of my comfort zone, and your information will certainly help me do that..... I LOVE what you're doing here.....

[GazzaS]

14 hours ago, Jeff said:

That's really good info for me as well, Gaz, I have some art store oils as well, but was a little apprehensive on using them.... now I know they will work just fine.... I want to try my hand at oils as well..... I REALLY need to step out of my comfort zone, and your information will certainly help me do that..... I LOVE what you're doing here.....

Glad to be of help, Jeff.  I try to avoid expensive hobby brands when I suspect I can save some dosh.   I've even painted models with tube acrylics with no troubles.  All of the models below were painted with student grade acrylic tube paint.

 

While using tube acrylics might not be the most time efficient method, it allows the modeller to create any color while spending pennies per model.  The only 'extra' purchases required were some cheap stuff to make flow enhancer and a color recipe book.

The T-34 was my first really big step into oils.  I'd done some timid stuff with oils before.  And I eventually over-weathered this T-34 losing some of the color modulation you see in this pre-RFI shot.

 

Sorry... thread drift.  My apologies.

[Kaireckstadt]

6 hours ago, GazzaS said:

Glad to be of help, Jeff.  I try to avoid expensive hobby brands when I suspect I can save some dosh.   I've even painted models with tube acrylics with no troubles.  All of the models below were painted with student grade acrylic tube paint.

 

While using tube acrylics might not be the most time efficient method, it allows the modeller to create any color while spending pennies per model.  The only 'extra' purchases required were some cheap stuff to make flow enhancer and a color recipe book.

The T-34 was my first really big step into oils.  I'd done some timid stuff with oils before.  And I eventually over-weathered this T-34 losing some of the color modulation you see in this pre-RFI shot.

 

Sorry... thread drift.  My apologies.

Wow great variety of beautiful models.

The diorama with the 2 Tanks in Africa is stunning! 
Also like how your old Revell Me-109 turned out (Eagle Cals).

I also mix colors when needed e.g. to create another shade. Just testing is important. For this I have an old 48scale DC-3 fuselage which consists of >100   () color layers in the meantime...

Now finish your StuG Gaz...

[Jeff]

Thread drifts are always interesting...

[Peterpools]

Gsz

Looking so good. Thanks for the tip on using “student paints” and will be giving them a shot

Keep ‘em comin

Petrr